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  1. Yesterday
  2. Ron@Optimum

    Cleaning a foam pad of Gloss Coat

    clean the pad immediately in hot water and Power Clean (or dish detergent) - squeeze out until it stops foaming and let dry.
  3. Demonstrated the problem to the supplier - tried another sprayer - same problem.
  4. Last week
  5. Setec Astronomy

    Cleaning a foam pad of Gloss Coat

    I don't know if there's a good way to clean it...that's why I usually use some blue Scott shop towel wrapped around something (got this tip from Anthony Orosco, I believe he put the yellow foam applicator in a nitrile glove, then wrapped a piece of the towel around it). This is basically the same idea as the microfiber suede wrapped around the foam that some other coating companies use. I currently have some coating applicators coming from China that I bought on Amazon...at 50 cents each--cheap enough to throw out. You can also get the yellow foam applicators cheap that way. Or there are plenty of options in the Optimum store. The problem with washing out a foam applicator is water probably isn't going to wash out the Gloss-Coat, and if you use something else you have to be very sure you wash out any residues so as not to contaminate the coating next time...and you know how hard it is to get residues out of foam. I would wash it with hot running water, squeezing it out a lot of times and repeating (this is what I usually do with Opti-Seal). Put it aside to dry and if it feels soft and ok after it dries, use it again, if it feels crusty you're not going to want to use it again.
  6. I'm using the foam pad to install gloss coat. After I'm done, what should be done, if anything, to "clean" the applicator pad? If I am going to use it again in say, several weeks or months, for applying GC to my other car (or reapply to same car), does the GC in the pad "dry" and make streaks or scratches? Sorry if covered else where, too many basic keywords to search for.
  7. Catastrofe

    Optimum Tire Protection & Coating Review

    So I used TAR to remove as much TPC as possible, but there’s still some residue. Each tire was sprayed, scrubbed, and power washed 4 times (I used about 24oz of product). The remaining residue isn’t coming off through any effort of mine... How long should I wait before attempting to coat again?
  8. Samuel

    Swirls prevention

    I will try that in the upcoming days... I live in Quebec and the salt they put on the road is just horrible. I will report back and let you guys know!
  9. Setec Astronomy

    Swirls prevention

    As I said, the pre-spray never seems to do anything for me, at least on winter salt. But they pre-treat the roads here with that brine and whatever gets kicked up on the cars seems to be almost waterproof. On the other hand, I have been too lazy to use a pre-spray in anything other than the regular wash dilution; it's quite possible I'd have better luck with it if it was much more concentrated as Ron uses, or if I tried Opti-Clean instead. Also I bought that airless paint sprayer, which would be kind of like a pressure washer (but using ONR)...but of course I haven't gotten around to using it yet.
  10. I'm slowly warming up to ONR but quickly got scared a little bit in the drying process. I'm using ONR with multiple microfibers that I do not re-introduce into bucket. Usually in summer a do a normal 2 bucket wash and soak my drying towel (Chemical Guys gray matter) in water and ring it out, then do 2-3 sprays on it of beadmaker and another 2-3 sprays on the pannel I dry. Now with ONR, my towel is dry but I spray about 5 sprays of beadmaker on it then 2-3 on the pannel. One thing I kinda didn't like was that in some cases I could see still a bit of dirt inside of bubbles or like some dirty water, I wasn't to sure if it was ok to go over it or not, I did but I'm sure I probably shouldn't have. Instead should've done a another pass with a cleaning microfiber that I used before but oh well. That said, my question is, should I maybe opt for a plushier drying towel for cases like these where they could safely remove that dirt or what you all recommend I do differently. For some context, here is what car looks like when dirty, as you can see I only had enough towels for my first time to do half the car and roof and hood and trunk , next time I'll add more towels lol! Note I also do a ONR pre soak.
  11. Ron@Optimum

    Swirls prevention

    I always pre-spray with ONR mixed 1 oz to 16 oz of water...and sometimes just use that mix as a waterless wash. I find the pre-spray starts dissolving bugs, tar, heavy dirt buildup and simplifies the actual wash.
  12. Samuel

    Swirls prevention

    Wow! Thanks a lot for that complete and informative reply! what do you think about doing a pre wash by spraying Onr on the paint prior to sweeping with the sponge? So that way the dirt and grime starts to dissolve and encapsulates in onr solution. Sam
  13. A&J

    Swirls prevention

    What he said... + you gringos have some of the softest paint on the market. I dont know why that is, maybe enviromental legislation, but compared to paint from EU manufacturers its soft as butter. No wonder the seign is "I just looked at it funny and it swirled up". And yes...black paint shows EVERYTHING...its something you will have to live with.
  14. Setec Astronomy

    Swirls prevention

    Black cars show everything, and it's REALLY hard not to introduce micro-marring during routine washing, which is especially visible on darker colored cars. Some basic things...are you using grit guards in your buckets? Even though Yvan was famous for his single bucket, reuse-the-solution-a-lot-of-times, I consider it "best practice" to use a rinse bucket with a grit guard (to which I add some ONR, about 1/4 normal, to keep from diluting things too much), and I use a fresh batch of solution every time, no matter how much I have left. I also wash my wash media (in the washing machine) after every use (I don't use sponges like the BRS, generally, I like the microfiber-covered sponges). Then there is preparation--do you do any kind of pre-rinse? A pressure washer would be ideal but it kind of defeats the purpose of a rinseless wash. Most people do a pre-rinse/pre-soak with some sort of waterless wash, or more concentrated solution of rinseless, using a pump-up sprayer. I never find this to be very effective. I have been intrigued by an online personality that posted a video of a Harbor Freight airless paint sprayer to pre-rinse with rinseless solution from a bucket, but I haven't tried that yet. Here's the most important thing...when your car is dirty it generally has grit that is "stuck" to the paint. This can be dust from the air, brake dust from your car or other cars, dirt from the road, etc. If you drive in the rain/snow, there is all kinds of grit splashed up that gets stuck to the paint. You don't want to grind this dirt/grit into the paint during the wash process. Hence the idea of a pre-soak/pre-rinse to loosen that stuff up first, and it's very important that you use a minimal amount of pressure as you agitate and dislodge this debris, and make sure you rinse it off the media thoroughly before going back to the panel. One technique that I have used is to use one side of the media very lightly on a panel, then turn the media over for another pass with more pressure now that the initial dirt has been removed. Of course there is also the "single-use media" technique, which is usually a pile of towels or mitts, that only get used once and not returned to the car surface after they get dirty. This obviates the need for a rinse bucket or any grit guards, you simply have a solution bucket with clean media, you use it until it's dirty, then throw it in a bucket (to be washed later), and move on to clean media. In this way no dirt is reintroduced to the surface...unfortunately for me, I have never been able to get this method to work to my satisfaction, and I always go back to using two buckets and one piece of media. Bottom line is it's almost impossible to not introduce some micromarring through routine washing, which is why most enthusiasts do a light polish on their car on some periodic basis. However, you can minimize that marring with good technique.
  15. Does it leak when using the standard sprayer (when you shake it), or with the C.G cap, or both?
  16. I meant we had sprayer clogging issues...but I did use a seperate pop up bottle cap (from a Chemical guys bottle) and Hyper polish does leak from the neck screws when i shake it up...and yes its really annoying.
  17. When you say "we all had that problem", are you referring to MY problem, where the polish leaks out at the point where the sprayer screws on to the neck? (I can't quite tell). The clogging is a completely separate issue, and I suppose the workaround for that would be to remove the sprayers after use and flush with water. HOWEVER, that may then require re-application of the plumber's tape - I don't mind applying the tape once, but I'd be a bit peeved if I had to do it every time.. (I don't think the tape is designed for repeated screwing & unscrewing of the fittings).
  18. Samuel

    Swirls prevention

    Hi, Like I said I always wash it with onr and big red sponge. dry it with mostly brand new plush microfiber and optiseal. My car is a Shadow black 2017 Ford Focus RS
  19. A&J

    Swirls prevention

    It could be the way you wash, the way you dry, the state of your MF towels, normal daily driving, paint, paint softness etc...what car and paint color do you have?
  20. Hello, My car has been clayed, polished and Optimum gloss coat applied. I always wash it using ONR and the big red sponge and dry the car using opti-seal. On the other hand after a couple months of regular washing, some swirls appeared even after very meticulous washes. Would you have any recommendation to prevent it from happening again? Thanks for you help Samuel
  21. We all had that problem and its an issue for the entire Hyper line...Sprayers are fine for detailer shops who polish all the time but if you leave it for a longer period of time it either clogs up or dies on you (this basically happened to all my sprayers). Also I found out hyper polish is very thin and hyper compound is very thick and both have issues with sprayers.
  22. I would say coatings are selected for more easy maintenance, and also some sealants. Opti-Seal is still a great product.
  23. Just a nit, but I doubt whether Beadmaker would be a true "sacrificial layer". It may increase slickness, or add gloss etc, but I have trouble accepting that it would form a "layer" that would be thick enough to withstand damage that did not penetrate to the paint. Even Opticoat Pro is not a "layer" - Yvan himself said that it infuses IN to the clear - it does NOT sit on top. Has anyone ever demonstrated a wax/sealant/coating acting as a sacrificial layer? For example - introduce a scratch, and somehow prove that the scratch was only in the product, and not the paint?
  24. Just trying Hyper Polish and Intensive Polish for the first time - both leak through the NECK when shaken vigorously. (which is REQUIRED for these products). I have tried tightening as much as possible, but they always leak. Applying some plumbing tape fixes it, but I should not have to do this. I have also reported this to my supplier - I'll demonstrate the problem to them if they ask me to, but otherwise I'll just carry on with the workaround - it's not a big problem.
  25. Juanca

    New Gloss-Coat not beading!

    Nice outcome. Perhaps the remaining oils from the polishing finally left the vehicle, maybe by evaporating and manual removal. 😊👍
  26. Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Tire Protection & Coating Review

    lots of good methodology and technique here -
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