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  1. Today
  2. In my experience ONR is more than enough to do a weekly wipe down with. Sometimes even that is overkill (as a thorough vacuum is enough) for me, but I'm very fussy with my car. I would even look at upping the strength of ONR before moving to Opti Clean (for a maintenance wash anyway). Having said that, my wife's daily driven car which does the school run every day has a lot tougher life and Opti Clean would make cleaning so much easier, but ONR still gets me out of trouble. It just depends on how the car is used I guess. My advice - save the Protectant Plus for every couple of months and go with ONR for the weekly wipe down.
  3. ONR should be good for interior cleaning on a weekly basis. I will use Opti-clean if there is something a bit more stubborn, but ONR will probably be your go-to for maintenance care.
  4. I clean my vehicle interiors weekly and use Protectant Plus on the dash and interior vinyl, but a weekly application of Protectant Plus seems like overkill. What would be a better between protection cleanings: Opti-Clean @ 3:1 or ONR @ 256:1?
  5. Yesterday
  6. It works fine with Gloss Coat.
  7. Last week
  8. Optimum Car Wash safe on Gloss coat

    Car Wash works well with Coated cars and shouldn't effect or interfere with normal beading behavior. M-Wash works even better and is formulated specifically for Coatings.
  9. Is the Optimum Car wash safe for Gloss coated Paint? Does it have and glossifiers or any other chemicals that would alter the Gloss Coat beading and sheeting action? I am looking for a high foam soap to use in my foam gun that is safe for Ceramic coating?
  10. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    I just washed today with the chemical guys honeydew and pitched the meg gold class and went over truck with optimum paint prep. Then sprayed hood and fender and it is working much better thanks for the tips. I have car pro reset on order and Optiseal along with another gloss coat kit for second car but this time will use Optiseal afterward to protect GC during cure time.
  11. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    I always remember Todd Cooperider from Esoteric Car Care saying 'stop assuming you know more than the chemists who make these products'. You've bought Gloss Coat and then tried to maintain it with several other manufacturers products. These retail level products will often contain things that will leave a glossing agent on the paint because they assume people who buy them are not maintaining their cars to the same level as an enthusiast (who buys Gloss Coat). Try and stay within the Optimum 'Synergy' by buying ONR and watch Yvan's videos on YouTube. Don't overthink it by buying this product and that product as they will mask anything below it.
  12. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    You don't need to go through the whole process and start over. As I mentioned over on your Autogeek thread, your prep is fine. It's all the stuff on that is on the surface that is masking the performance of the coating such as the shampoo, quick detailer and the possibility of road grime. I did not even think about the pollen season as someone mentioned in your Autogeek thread as well. Gold Class is a nice shampoo but it can mask the properties of any LSP. I have experienced this myself and that is why I no longer use it. The effects of the QD and the car wash will be removed after a few washes with a shampoo that leaves nothing behind. Road grime is a little harder to remove and there are shampoos that can do this. Road grime is an outcome of rain and all the crud from the road being flung on the painted surface. You could try paint prep after a wash to see if that helps. The other option is the possibility of trying power clean to clean up the surface during your wash process and see if that restores the hydrophobic properties. Worst case you have to start over. The difference between opti-seal and hyper seal is that hyper seal contains SiO2.
  13. 6+ weeks is impressive especially if it is at the standard 3:1 dilution ratio. I may have to do my first YouTube video test with standard cleaner (APC) on one section, 3:1 Fabric Carpet Cleaner Protect dilution ratio on another section and undiluted Fabric Carpet Cleaner Protect on another section to show the different levels of water beading (none to hopefully very good). This is assuming the client is willing to let me use the car for the test.
  14. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    I just ordered a new gloss coat kit and I am going to start over doing decon, polish then gloss coat. I also ordered Opti seal to apply after the gloss coat to protect it during the curing time. I will see from there how it goes. What is the difference between opti seal and hyper seal? I only used the Opt quick detailer because I love the extra shine it adds and it helps dry the paint quicker. In the past before I ever used gloss coat I was using the Quick detailer over paint sealant and had excellent water beading so I bought a gallon last year. I will redo my gloss coat and avoid the quik detailer to see how it performs.
  15. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    According to Yvan, Gloss-Coat requires no topper and any you use besides Hyper Seal can change/reduce the hydrophobic effect of the coating. I would still use Instant Detailer for spot cleaning (bugs, water spots, tar, etc) - unless you require absolute beading/sheeting?
  16. ONRWW and fabric soft top.

    I use a quality waffle weave - have found plush towels don't blot well.
  17. I'm not sure I can say that Fabric & Carpet Cleaner & Protectant is a replacement for a dedicated product like Scotchgard, since it does double duty. I've had it on my convertible top for 6+ weeks and it still beads water (though my Z3 is the ultimate Garage Queen). For heavy soil I spray, brush into the fibers, dry, then spray again and wipe. I would think that quarterly application would be sufficient.
  18. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    Is there a safe instant detailer to use in between washes to remove finger prints light dirt etc that will not effect the coating? When I originally was researching coatings I already had been using the Opt instant detailer for years and loved it and still have almost a gallon. I had emailed Otimum with questions and was told the Opt int detailer is ok to use with the gloss coat in between washing and could still use as a drying aid.
  19. There are a few things going on here. First is the soap , for washing try Optimum No Rinse(ONR), you will get better results. The Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer will reduce the beading and sheating of the Gloss-Coat.
  20. I recently put Optimum Gloss coat on my truck 3 weeks ago. I washed then did Iron X decon followed by claying the entire truck. I machine polished with Optimum Finish polish then used the Optimum paint prep. I applied the gloss coat one panel at a time watched it flash over and left no high spots. The first rain storm was 2 days later and the water did bead well and roll off easily. I washed the truck a week later with Chemical guy honeydew foam cannon and Meguiars Goldclass in my bucket. Since then the water no longer beads half as well and doesn't really fly off while driving. It is easier to wash the truck but even when rinsing it off it doesn't have a sheeting effect and the beads are not what I have seen from pics and videos. I also maintain the paint with optimum instant detailer and glossifier after I wash the truck. Did I do something wrong? I know the Gloss coat is applied to the paint and it is much easier to wash as any dirt falls off easily but I am not seeing the "self cleaning" effect since the water beading just sits on the paint and isn't sheeting off or blowing off while driving. Also is the Optimum intatant detailer ok to use in between washes? I have a gallon of it and would hate to have to toss it. I have searched online and some say the detailer spray is the problem or the car wash soap is the problem? Is it sake to wash then use the optimum paint prep to remove any wax residues or will the paint prep damage the coating?
  21. ONRWW and fabric soft top.

    Thanks Ron. Just one quick follow up, what type of towel (and technique) do you use for drying the fabric top? I assume a tight weave waffle type microfiber using blotting technique is best to avoid leaving pieces lint all over the fabric top
  22. Thanks Ron. So I am definitely interested in suggestion/using Fabric Clean & Protect on the fabric top. I am just wondering whether it's water repel characteristics and UV protection are a suitable replacement to a Scotchgard-like application every 6 months. I know it will depend on the environment exposed to (temperature, UV exposure, rain, etc.) but how often in your experience would you apply Fabric Clean & Protect to maintain some hydrophobic properties (monthly, less or more frequently)? For the application process would you spray on to the fabric top (at standard 3:1 dilution), agitate with soft bristle brush and then blot with a microfiber towel (preferably one with minimal loose fibers to avoid lint on fabric top)? I had suggested to the client to seasonally apply Scotchgard but the one issue with this type of protectant is you want to make sure not to leave any overspray on rubber seals and plastic as it cause significant damage. To be safe, I would normally tape all the rubber seals close to the border of the fabric top. Looking at my bottle of Optimum Fabric Clean & Protect, I see no warnings about leaving on rubber and plastics so I assume it will not damage those materials. If this is a suitable replacement, it would be a significant time savings as you just apply at regular cleaning interval (nominal 15 minutes monthly) and not have to go through significant seasonal prep (wash thoroughly, wait to dry, tape up rubber/plastic trim, apply several light coats of Scotchgard, needs to dry before being exposed to rain which is 1-1.5 hours of hands on work with significant delay time for drying). And the cost savings looks good too. A single can of Scotchgard is about 1/3 the price of a 32 oz bottle of Fabric Clean & Protect. A single can of Scotchgard is maybe good for one year (two full applications) whereas Fabric Clean & Protect would produce 128 oz at the standard dilution of 3:1. Assuming nominal 2 oz per application on the fabric top, you would have enough solution for 64 applications (or 5.3 years assuming monthly application). You come out ahead after year 3 plus even with Scotchgard, you need to acquire another product for periodically cleaning the fabric top.
  23. ONRWW and fabric soft top.

    My response above was before I acquired my "Lake Car", a 2001 BMW Z3. So now I have hands on experience with ONRWW on a convertible top and it works great! The amount of wax is minimal, has no effect on fabric, and is great for general interior maintenance as well. FYI, Carpet & Fabric Clean & Protect does an excellent job cleaning and leaving protection on my top.
  24. For heavy duty cleaning you can use Power Clean (I've cleaned carpets at 1:5 dilution). For normal maintenance I use Fabric Clean & Protect on carpets and my convertible top (it can be used at full concentration for heavy stains) - the benefit is the protection it leaves behind (fun to watch water bead on a convertible top).
  25. Sorry, I don't have an answer to your question but I am interested in this as well. The great thing about OPT products is they are so versatile and have so many uses. It would be great to have a 'cheat sheet' of rough dilutions for each product. In this case I would have actually been thinking a very diluted Power Clean may do the trick, possibly even followed up by Fabric Clean & Protect.
  26. I have a client with a 2006 Black BMW E85 Z4 convertible with fabric top. They are are looking for suggestions on products to maintain vehicle. For the paint work I am suggesting ONR, Big Red Sponge and OCW as drying aid (as the wax seems to look better on darker colors than opti-seal) and using Pluffle microfiber from the Rag Company for drying. For the fabric convertible top, I am unsure what Optimum products would be most appropriate. Most dedicated fabric convertible top cleaners are mild APC that are easily rinsed away. What would be the recommended Optimum product? Power Clean seems a bit to aggressive to me and based on my experience (at least 3:1 dilution ratio)requires significant volume of water to fully rinse off. Would ONR work and what would be the best application and drying method? What about about ONRWW on the fabric top, any concerns with the wax content? What about Optimum Fabric and Carpet Clean and Protect? Would this have any impact to application and/or longevity to fabric protection (Scotchgard, 303 or other)? Any suggestions would be helpful as I would like to keep the products within the Optimum "synergy" to maintain maximum efficiency for the client so they are more likely to keep up on exterior maintenance. Note the vehicle is garaged over the winter so there is no need to worry about winter maintenance.
  27. ONRWW and fabric soft top.

    Juan, Did you test ONRWW on the fabric top? Was there any noticeable negative effects? I am trying to put together a maintenance package of products for washing a 2006 BMW Z4 with fabric top . I am wondering if ONRWW is OK with the fabric top or if I should be specifying sticking with regular ONR and then using Optimum Spray Wax as drying aid on painted/solid surfaces only.
  28. Alcantara Cleaning & Protection

    Thanks, A&J. I really like the Fabric Clean & Protect method, but since there is no actual stains (alcantara just eventually gets an oily, matted down look after contact with skin) I may even halve the standard dilution. Very lightly mist the surface and (again) very lightly agitate with a soft bristle brush, then wipe clean with a soft towel. I think Power Clean (even at 10:1) may be too strong for alcantara, but I could be wrong. https://www.detailedimage.com/FAQ/Detailing/How-do-I-clean-Alcantara-in-a-car/
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