So I ended up doing a Carpro Reset Wash, then sprayed the areas with PC 1:3, and let it dwell for a few min, then agitated with a Microfiber applicator. I then Rinsed, dried, and sprayed the area with Ferrex. I let it dwell for a few min, agitated/spread it around with a MF applicator and rinsed. I saw very little purple reactions. Finally, I applied MDR to the area with a MF applicator, let it dell for a few min, then rinsed and went over the area with a Reset wash again. Unfortunately it had no effect, and the water reactions on those lower door areas are still not right.
I just don't understand why those lower areas would loose their beading/sheeting properties so quickly (2 months). I don't know why but I always seem to have issues with Coatings, and those lower and rear areas of the car, sooner then I think I should. The first Gloss Coat application on this car, those areas lost their beading/sheeting properties about 6-8 months after the application, which was after the first winter. My previous car, which had Opti-Coat Pro (the older formula) was professionally applied in 2013, had the same issues with beading/sheeting on the lower and rear areas of the car as well, also in about 8 months or so after application, after the first winter. In all cases, I have never been able to bring back the water properties of those areas after decon washes, IronX/Ferrex, Power Clean, and Clays. I am not sure why I am having so many problems with this, but it seems like the lower and rear areas of any of my coatings ever survive Portland Oregon's rainy season/winter.
Here is a link to a video that shows the water reaction differences on the top area of the door, which still sheets water well, like I would expect it to. And how the water reacts on the lower ares of the door where the water sticks to the paint and sheets slowly/poorly.