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Not sure I'd call this a tutorial (a little pompous) but I wanted post my first experience with V5 ONR and Ultra Ceramic Seal. My test car is a 2001 BMW Z3 (my personal Garage Queen) - it was lightly dirty, mostly dust & pollen. I did my usual 2 bucket mixture of V5 ONR (1 oz in 2 gallons and .5 oz in 2 gallon rinse bucket), with a Big Red Sponge/Ultimate Drying Towel. On first impression I thought V5 was thicker than V4, more like Opti-Coat NR. The smell is the same, slightly medicinal (Opti-Coat is more floral to me). When shaken, V5 foamed much more than V4, ironic because in general ONR doesn't foam, much to the frustration of people who love foam cannons. I didn't see any difference in cleaning power or release of dirt from my sponge (Dr G states better release in a benefit of V5 - but it's hard to quantify). Another characteristic is supposed to be V5 slickness, but because I used Ultra Seal as a drying aid immediately, I couldn't test. Ultra Ceramic Seal comes in the traditional Optimum bottle/sprayer, not the Opti-Coat style. I found the sprayer easier to modulate and used much less product than Hyper Seal. Ultra worked well as a drying aid and looked great (still does). The most obvious quality was slickness (I know gloss, shine, slickness, etc are very hard to compare) - I felt the improvement was tangible...and continues today, 7 days later. Hydrophobics were top notch. This week I'll be washing another car and this time will experiment - one half original ONR/Hyper Seal, one half V5 ONR/Ultra...or maybe I'll mix & match and really confuse us all?

I promised the Optimum Forum to do a product comparison of Hyper Seal and Ultra Ceramic: Last weekend I washed/detailed 2 cars. The first was washed with ONR (5th revision) and Ultra Ceramic Seal was used as a drying aid. No problems and Ultra went on easily with no streaking. This car had Opti-Coat Pro applied 8+ years ago, but it's still present. The 2nd car washed with ONR V5, then 1/2 had Ultra Ceramic applied as drying aid and the other Hyper Seal (new version). This car has had a graphene coating applied (2 years ago) and has regular Hyper Seal applications. There was no difference in application ease or streaking. Observations - I see no difference in gloss or shine - I used a spotlight and bright sunlight. Truthfully I frequently don't see differences some point out and question the power of suggestion...or could be old eyes? There was a tangible difference in slickness - Ultra was noticeably slicker (made Hyper feel almost grabby in comparison). Both bead water but Ultra's were smaller. Also, when old version Hyper Seal was sprayed on beads, they disintegrate (used to demo that), but the new formula does not. Curious if that's an effect from ceramic components? When Ultra is sprayed on beads they disintegrate/sheet. That might indicate a difference in hydrophobics? I much preferred the Ultra sprayer, allowed better control of product applied. I will monitor which sheds dirt the best and durability (to the best of my ability).

I got my new truck in June of last year and wanted something that wasn't rinse, wash, rinse again then rush to dry it before the water spots. Its a full size truck so lots of surface area. Not sure how I found optimum products but it might have been Scottwax on youtube who I just saw is going to start making more videos, just did one a few weeks ago. I started out with the BRS, then I saw the UBS I wanted to try that as well. I could never get used to the UBS though, just seems a little to small for my hands. So anyway I started washing both of our vehicles weekly as it was just so easy. The only time I've used a power washer was to knock crud/mud/salt chunks off, other than that its only been pre spraying with ONR 256/1 in a IK 2 gallon pump sprayer. I'll usually use the pre spray from the belt line down and the front and rear bumpers (my gfs car attracts everything to the vertical surface of the trunk and the rear bumper). I did want to try some other wash media, I ended up using (and still do) the cyclone ultra wash mitt. I don't put my hand in it but is more comfy for me. I realized I kept dropping the BRS, I have atrophy in both arms and hands and honestly I don't know why wrapping my fingers around the BRS was harder than putting my hand on top of a mitt. I did try some other brands of rinseless. I think the worst was P&S Absolute, smelled and felt like body lotion to me. Also tried McKees N-914 as well as DIY Detail rinseless. For me the McKees and DIY Detail didn't have the slickness that ONR does. The way that DIY Detail foams up I feel like its soap but who knows, could just be me. The big difference was going from other brands one week and then using ONR again the next week and immediately feeling how much slicker it is, I don't want to say the others were grabby but they didn't feel as smooth and free flowing. Another thing with ONR, prespraying the panel allows the dirt to make its way down to the kick panels or bottom of the car. Both P&S and DIY stuck the panel. But here is the weird thing, after washing it, the liquid on the car does sit longer and doesn't evaporate as fast which is great for when you're drying. In the beginning I was using OPC for about a month getting the crud off of both our wheels. The OPC works great, I try to use it a few times during the winter to clean the fender liners with the optimum Wheel and Body Brush. After enough applications and using hyperseal I just clean the rims with ONR and foam OPC on the tires once a month. Dry with some hyperseal and the brake dust, dirt and grime just come right off the next time. I've been using optiseal or hyperseal as a drying agent from the beginning and love the ease of drying. In the fall and spring I also dry apply hyper seal before it gets to cold out, not sure if it does anything as I wash our vehicles weekly but it gives me some piece of mind. I was soooo sold on rinseless that June of 2023 I got by brother a full kit for his birthday as he had just got a new suv. I think I got him into cleaning his car more than twice a year and going through car washes. All in all I love ONR and the optimum line of products. Oh right thats the other thing, it takes so little time to wash you can do it in bright sun when its 90 or below freezing temps in the winter (my record is 18F)

SEMA 2023 begins at the end of October and Optimum will be introducing several new and/or upgraded products. A line of improved D/A machines will be displayed and updated takes on existing products will be announced. The modern OPT labels are already going into distribution and that will continue as the old labels are filtered out.

I've been tempted to mention the new and newly realized products in the sales funnel, but understood I had to wait until they are official. The announcements will be in the next few days and when I get the details, they will appear here! I can say that there are some new products and some re-positioned for improved marketing. A new line of polishers, both DA and rotary is coming and some will be cordless. Anyone watching will see that Optimum has introduced many new formula products in the last year, some substantial improvements, some more incremental. I can report that Dr G is incredibly engaged right now, paying attention to the industry, competition, and marketing. What once seemed a simple business has gotten very complex, with new manufacturers appearing monthly and taking chunks of the market, along with a huge increase in advertising. As one Optimum Regional Manager pointed out, poaching of employees AND customers is at new highs.

Optimum has been on a roll lately with new formulas - the technology keeps advancing! I remember thinking Hyper Seal was a Wonder product and it's been improved twice in the last 2 years. The hybrid formula not only lasts longer, but has greater hardness and chemical resistance.

Great welcome Another detailer gone to the dark side Ron lol. I went from optimum car soap to onr right away and have loved it. About 5 years now. Get the gloss coat on the car and all the other optimum products just look and perform better. My list Gloss coat great protection and gloss Onr a must Hyperseal protection love it The new ceramic wax goes on even at 4c so does hyperseal I just rotate through these products as a drying aid .

New products - not on web site yet, but can be ordered via phone or email (901-363-4955 and info@opticoat.com). There are 2 new cordless D/As (15mm and 22mm), a cordless Rotary and a corded Rotary. NO Optimum products are being discontinued.

I promised to do a comparison between Ultra and Hyper Seal, but life conspired to interrupt my schedule. First we had a World Class Hail Storm that damaged my home/area and introduced me to the new bane of my existence - insurance adjusters. Following has been a string of family & company visits (benefit of living at the lake)...and we have an army coming for the 4th. Finally the weather has alternated between hotter than h#ll and spot showers to ruin clean cars. I did detail my SILs Audi with Ultra and he was way impressed. Once the holiday are clear I'll get back on schedule...I promise.

Latest info from Dr G - Pro Coatings are dry to the touch in 1 hour, can get wet in 2-3 hours (particularly if Hyper Seal/Opti-Seal are applied), 90% hardness at 12 hours, and curing complete in 7 days.

Greetings, Polysilazane resins have been around for over 20 years and we have tested them thoroughly against our SiC based resins and although they offer good protection, SiC resins that we use in our coatings offer better protection and greater longevity. As for Hyper Seal, the 2022 version has some SiC resin in it that requires about 30 minutes to fully cure, therefore you do not want to touch the surface during the curing process since it is tacky as you mentioned. Once it cures, it leaves a g slick and glossy finish with greater protection than any other sealants. Ultra Ceramic Seal (UCS) works great as a topper for Hyper Seal or any other wax or sealant and provides great gloss, slickness, and hydrophobicity.

This was a new combination, at least for me. Wanting to wash my car before a 10 hour drive for the holidays and due to single digit temps along with laziness, I decide to do an instant detailer clean up with a drying aid (car was not too dirty). I used the quick detailer ratio of No Rinse Wash & Wax and Ultra Ceramic Seal combination for the first time. Wash was fast and didn't require a second pass, and Ultra went on easy with no streaking/hazing. Car looked great, gloss was excellent and beading was outstanding (went through several storms). The whole process was so quick and easy, could become addictive.

New Optimum products announced today at SEMA - Optimum Interior Cleaner Optimum Interior Protectant Optimum Waterless Wash & Shine Optimum Power Wheel & Tire Cleaner Each is ready to use and has specific uses versus more generic Optimum products. Interior Cleaner is a much stronger cleaner and the Protectant more durable than Protectant Plus. Waterless is a growing market and Opti-Clean wasn't clearly aimed at that segment (many had no idea what it was). Wheel & Tire is specifically targeted for wheels/tires. These products are due to feedback from Amazon and sales numbers - most Optimum products could be diluted for multiple purposes, but today's customers want simplicity and no mixing. https://www.facebook.com/opticarcare?__cft__[0]=AZUfEvMxEbOt7QOwsfI-vlrCHo3RYFS6R8ji5rojbsnodm0rB_g6QrFQWaFg1F3rW81_GIqyWJCVFlmEBLiO4A3ydnSCj_hwSKkBa1dQT7tsKC2WZdkzkHdDmtN3bwnsKiGaC9wYWGp9ODTH6ruutJ3_3Wq0B7W7XydyocMOskJHX46kwYH0s2ypWRFNu0eAsfKvOsv3BEMpDbY9IXXHb0Ws&__tn__=-UC%2CP-y-R

I apply v2 like I would Gloss Coat or Opti-Seal. Last week I used the V2 HS at work. Boss wanted to ceramic coat his friends vehicle but we didn't have time to use the Xpel Fusion because takes forever to apply and remove. Also, the truck is black... But, since I had my rig with me, I decided to use the HS v2. I didn't want to use up my Gloss Coat on it, although last time I did, he gave me a SIGNIFICANT tip... I perfected my application technique on that truck last week, but as part of my experimentation, I came back the day after I applied the HS, and applied a second layer to the lower sections, from the windows down. I let the HS sit for too long in areas that I applied to heavily and was greeted with high spots. That was a big surprise. This stuff is LEGIT. I've used Hyper Seal on a number of cars for people close to me, to test the strength of the product. My cousin, a neighbor at my gf's place, my best friend's mom, and so far it's been performing better than expected. When I saw my cousin's vehicle at the family reunion, the gloss was off the charts. It stood out like a sore thumb.

From Dr G - "The new V5 No Rinse is far superior to the Version 4 or any other rinseless product. It has greater cleaning power, much greater lubricity making washing easier, and leaves minimal water behind making drying much faster and the towel glides over the surface far better than any other product due to the added lubricity. It also leaves a greater shine behind.

New formula Hyper Seal had increased ceramic components (adds to durability and hardness) and I'm sure creates more "solids", demanding better spray heads. The Doc is dedicated to making sprayable products like compounds/polishes, Ultra Seal/Hyper Seal, and that can cause issues with equipment.

I've heard before that letting the ONR dry to about 80% dry/20% moist makes it easier to towel dry. I normally will wash the entire car like I would using traditional soap inside my garage and then go around the entire car to dry I have not had any issues with streaking that way Sometimes I think we overdo it with the drying aids. I've stopped using one altogether, I was using Beadmaker and the Obsessed Garage Drying Aid and was noticing streaking on my dark paint cars. Now I just use ONRWW for the wash and proceed straight into drying with one gauntlet towel I'll then pull the car back out to the driveway to clean up the garage floor When I bring the car back into the garage a final time, if I'm trying to get the car especially spotless, I'll blow it off using a leaf blower and then go over the car one more time with a dampened microfiber towel

Opti-Seal and Wax have a small amount of Si02 that can be removed chemically with Power Clean or Paint Prep. Hyper Seal is a SiC/Si02 hybrid and would take multiple chemical applications to remove, but Hyper Polish would work with no issues. Setec, not sure why you have a problem with Hyper Seal, even an rookie like me can use it...

I haven't sampled the Ceramic Seal yet, but from what Dr G says, my guess is among sealants the hierarchy is Hyper Seal, Ceramic Seal, Opti-Seal, Car Wax for durability. Other characteristics are mostly subjective - hydrophobics, chemical resistance, shine, slickness, and hardness. Now that Dr G is back in country I'll get his input.

@Ron@Optimumused the 2nd gen hyper seal today on a new customers car. Regular ONR wash and used the Hyper Seal on a wet panel. 2 sprays into my drying towel to prime and a 1/4 pull of the trigger. The water was vanishing. I couldn’t believe it. I thought opti seal was a cheat code but this stuff rocks. The trigger sprayer stinks. I’ll be transferring into an old opti seal bottle.

Pre-spray is particularly helpful in removing bug guts, tar, sap, bird crap, etc - also works on tires/wheels and heavy dirt deposits on the lower panels. It begins to dissolve that stuff, making it easier to remove with the normal ONR wash.

I've now used the new Waterless on 2 cars, so easy and with great results. I honestly didn't think I'd use these "retail" products but now see them as improvements over originals. Curious now about durability since Instant Detailer is short term stuff and comfortable it will out protect/last Opti-Clean.

First test of new Power Wheel & Tire Cleaner - another revised Optimum product, ready to use and with a simplified function. This is also Optimum's first purposely formulated foaming product. I tested it on 2 sets of tires with differing wheel design and degrees of dirt. Both sets have been treated with Tire Protection & Coating, but well over year ago and mostly gone. I sprayed WTC and let dwell for several minutes, it foamed and spread easily. I used a tire brush to agitate and could see the foam raising and trapping dirt to be removed with an old microfiber. The rinsing microfiber towels, soaked in ONR, were filthy, but the tires/wheels dried streak/free. I did a second application for fun. WTC breaks up brake dust, oil, dirt, and even light corrosion, is acid free and safe on all wheel surfaces. Cleaning brake dust and light corrosion is a bonus. Power Wheel & Tire Cleaner is a cleaner only, leaving no shine, and needs to be followed by a conditioner, either short term (Opti-Bond) or long (Tire Protection and Coating). This is a better tire/wheel cleaner than Power Clean, though Power Clean has greater variety of uses based on mixture, and the foaming aspect works really well on these surfaces.

They are very different products. Carpet & Fabric is concentrated, normal dilution is 1:3. Diluted 1:1, Carpet & Fabric strength is comparable to Interior Cleaner. Other differences, Carpet & Fabric contains coating for protection and comes in different sizes (8 oz, 32 oz, Gal), Interior comes Ready to Use in 17 oz and gallons. Interior Cleaner is part of Optimum's strategy to provide RTU products with single functions for efficiency. FYI, Interior is less expensive as well.

You might wanna try a OPT waterless and UItra ceramic seal combo next time. I bet it will give more gloss.

I saw that scottwax was starting to make newer videos. Decided to comment on a video and had said that its amazing what ONR will take off without issues. Ended up going back and forth and told him I'd make a video washing my truck after driving 75 miles through snow, sleet, ice and.... salt. I forgot a bunch of stuff in the video and I've never really made a video online for someone other than family. I watched it several times and thought this might be something that would help people be a bit more comfy with what ONR can do. I do wash our vehicles once per week or once every two weeks depending on the weather. Wasn't able to wash my truck until today, crappy weather mixed with aches and pains of snowblowing 1/2 mile of driveway on Sunday. Anyway this is my "attempt" at a video lol I might drive around next week "more snow" just to get it dirty again to try to explain some more stuff in another video. Little things like using the green brush for the front and rear bumpers, tires and wheels etc and why I don't go to the car wash and use a bay to blow all the salt off.

Sometime early last week or so I got both of my cars done with Green ONRWW. I followed that up with the spray car wax. One car is still glowing as it hasn’t been driven since. The other still holding up with the lack of rain. We had some and it is dull but the upper half is still shining.

I’m about to place my optimum order for the year and I’ll post back when it comes in!

thank you for the detailed write up and supporting what many have reported - ease of use, variety of benefits, and the cumulative affect of using OPT products.

Turtle Wax figured changing the bottle and dilution ratio would throw customers off...and they were mostly right. Their rinseless was more expensive but most never computed it. I found it funny when people said TW was better (or ONR was better) because they were the same. They didn't educate the masses on the rinseless technology and got pushback from ignorance. The product flopped and became a bargain basement deal (and yes, Big Lots still exist). Their chemist tried to reverse engineer Opti-Seal but never got it right - Dr G said that is much more difficult that TV makes it seem. I was consulting with Optimum then but Dr G asked me to sit in TW meetings to expand his "staff".

Following up on what dlc95 asked, it's really unclear to me how these products fit into the line. In the TRC video that JoseG posted, Dr. G states these are RTU and available in 17oz and gallon sizes. Are these targeted more as consumer/retail products rather than professional/enthusiast? Does the waterless wash product replace Opti-Clean? Does the wheel and tire cleaner, other than the foaming properties, improve on OPC as far as wheel or tire cleaning?

2023 SEMA Teaser: 2023 https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=729824895854143&set=pb.100064799163740.-2207520000

Today, I finally had the opportunity to put this compound to use. I write this sitting in my truck, having just got off of work. The vehicle was a late model black GMC Sierra. Moderate car wash brush damage. To keep it short. It reminds me of Hyper Polish with a lot more cut. No marring with a green 60 ppi pad whatsoever. I was able to one step ot with that green pad. It seems like the Hyper Polish and Hyper Compound overlap, where they can both function as a pad dependent Polish, where Intensive Polish and Hyper Compound V4 seemed like two aggressive titans of paint correction. Revision 5 is the missing component for me, as I sometimes struggled to remove to , Intensive Polish or Hyper Compound left behind. So for me, Hyper Compound V5 is a game changer in that it has excellent cut, and excellent finishing. With this compound, I can comfortably stay within the Optimum line of detailing chemicals. Though I'm usually using a Porter Cable and Buff and Shine pads. Excellent job, and a heartfelt thank you to Dr. Ghksoussi for formulation this excellent compound!

Very true about getting the freshest product. As a long time Amazon buyer, I learned a long time ago to peruse the offerings to make sure the order is being fulfilled by Amazon, as the best way to avoid snafus. Although, to be fair, most of the orders fulfilled elsewhere seem to be more reliable than they were years ago, however it's always worth it to check the ratings of the specific supplier. But fulfilled by Amazon is pretty rock-solid, at least for me.

After reading all the complaints about the lousy spray nozzle on HyperSeal, the first time I used it, I poured the contents of the original bottle into a Car Pro Dilute spray bottle. The spray came out like a very fine mist. I used it after a wash with Opti Coat No Rinse and had no issues whatsoever. You could say it was used as a drying aid, since I hadn't dried the little bit of water remaining after the contact wash, but I really put it on as a protectant over my already overprotected ceramic coat of Pro+ and Pro 3.

I'm learning a lot tonight! I know a lot of people complain about Opti-Seal's water behavior, but when I polished with Hyper Polish prior to applying Opti-Seal I was able to get those really round beads. No, not like that of Gloss Coat or similar, but more than when I used Meguiar's or Menzerna prior. If I use my 3D polishes I'll do an ONR spray and wipe, and to a separate Paint Prep pass before applying the Gloss Coat.

Brad, I usually apply Hyper Seal like I would Gloss Coat or Opti-Seal. Like Gloss Coat it's tacky on initial application, but it does "cure" by the next day. I can feel the slickness very well under a towel when wiping the paint. If I want more slicknes I'll add Car Wax or Instant Detailer. Thankfully I got used to the HS sprayer head, but it's a little awkward to use. I have a gallon of panel wipe from 3D and it stinks like vinegar. The receptionist at work had to close the door when I was working near that part of the building! I took it to work so I could use it up... I'm battling the urge to pour it out the drain. Instead, I'll let my boss pay me for it.. It will be replaced with the Optimum Paint Prep. I'm a little disappointed to hear of the changes to IDGE, but I'll be stocking up gallons of it so I can use either as needed. That Ultra Ceramic Seal is an excellent product! My gf has had to park her vehicle in the driveway where the sprinklers hit (condo unit). In the past (when I was using other lsp's) we had water spotting issues if that happened. This time she marveled that there were no water spots to speak of. I have Gloss Coat on as a base, but put UCS on just before she had to park outside. I recommend giving ot a try if you like Optimum offerings. Thank you for asking these questions. Love the discussion.

It has been said by some that sealants like Opti-Seal could have a remedial effect on "spiderweb" swirls by filling in the "low spots" with repeated application. As to your comments regarding washing--there is middle ground between "pressure washers and foaming guns and two buckets" and your methods of QD wipedown or wash with plain water from a hose and a sponge. As I have previously noted a safer way to do your wipedown wash would be with a waterless wash such as Opti-Clean. Waterless wash products are designed to have more capacity for dirt encapsulation than a quick detailer. I personally would argue that the development of waterless washes effectively obsoleted quick detailers. My personal recommendation, would be to explore a rinseless wash such as Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) or Optimum No-Rinse Wash & Wax (ONRWW). These can be done with a single bucket (grit guard recommended); I personally prefer to use a rinse bucket. Or there is the "single-use media" method (I'll describe this later). The idea of a rinseless wash is that you wet your wash media and wipe a single panel or portion of a panel, then dry with a separate towel. You can then re-wet your wash media, and move on to the next section. Or you can rinse the wash media in a separate bucket, or you can have multiple wash media (the "single-use media"), such as 4 or 5 microfiber towels. In this case, say you have a 16 x 16 towel, it can be folded twice to give you 8 sides, and you can discard (for laundering) after the 8 sides without reintroducing any dirt from a previous section. Here's kind of a basic ONR video: And just to hit another couple of things and then I'm bailing out. The reason you got asked about your process is because touching your paint--whether it's you or someone else brushing past it in the garage or parking lot, you Kozaking it, QD'ing, washing, drying, applying wax/sealant, claying, etc.--that's how you get spiderweb swirling. There's an old saw about how car show cars have the most swirls--because they are constantly being wiped down. Cars that get cleaned/wiped less have less marring--although they may have other kinds of damage (water spots, bird poop etching) from not being cleaned. And finally, you seem to have taken the position that this (or any other detailing forum) is full of professional detailers who don't have the same perspective or priorities as you do. These forums are generally trafficked by "enthusiasts" (although there are many weekend warriors or full time pro detailers). You have to understand that the internet and these kind of forums have allowed a level of information sharing and collaboration or "crowd-sourcing" of knowledge that just was not possible 25 years ago. The advice that I and others have tried to give you doesn't come from one person's experience, or the experience of their father or brother or uncle, it comes from the shared experiences of thousands and thousands of occasional, enthusiast, and pro detailers from around the world sharing their experiences and insight and collaboratively working toward "best practice" methods, so that someone like you can come here and benefit from that. The easiest way to fix your swirls is not to get them in the first place.

Welcome to the Optimum Forum, lot's of "New School" technology to make the job easier, with better results!

Lowejackson! Don't ask me about this because I still don't understand how there are any other LSP's after WOWA sealants came out in 2007.

Nice summary!

Hi Brad b I had the same problem looked like my gloss coat was gone on my roof and hood . Turner out it was contaminated with all the pollen were getting here. I just used power clean ( almost full strength) on the hood and roof. I purchased optimums air foamer work brilliantly nice layer of thick foam just were i wanted it used a microfiber washmitt soaked in onr moved it around a bit then added a little more foam keep this up for five minutes did not let it dry out. Rinsed off car then onr wash . Back to normal .

Yes

According to Dr G, Opti-Trim would be effective on soft rubber as well.

this is how Dr G described Ultimate Ceramic Seal to me originally (I didn't post because I didn't want to get ahead of his announcement): The new Ceramic Seal is a water based product that is for consumers in the Optimum line and is in between Opti-Seal and Hype Seal. It has more slickness and gloss than Opti-Seal and lasts about 6 months

I expect you're right, error in labeling from the office. I've emailed them but know they're short staffed so no answer so far.

Protectant Plus is another underappreciated Optimum product - it's not only a great interior product, but also the best for exterior trim (great UV protection).

I was experiencing troubles with Intensive Polish dusting and leaving lots of residue. It seems this was due to using Power Clean as a pad cleaner pre-spray, and the Lake Country 4000 with ONR 256:1. I've exchanged Power Clean with my preferred free & clear laundry detergent (Neutral colour). Since then, it acts just like Hyper Polish, except it has an insane amount of cut. It never dusts or leave a lot of residue, just feels like a very oily polish that never dries out. Hope it works for others too! Another problem I'm experiencing: With the Zentool 21e2, the pads get too heavy with use and the polisher gets too imbalanced. I use Rupes Blue wool and Optimum Hyper wool pads. Even after cleaning them with the pad washer, it doesn't completely fix it. How do I prevent this from happening or how do I fix it?

That is an excellent point, dlc95. Everyone has the product they like and a routine. I also put no stock in those who test products. Find a product youike and stick with it an master it is the best method. Not everyone details for profit. Some detail for therapy and they love taking an hour to soap wash their car. Personally, I don't want to have to work that hard. My 2014 Mazda 6 is coated with pro 3 and the interior is also coated with leather guard. 20 minute wash and 20 minute interior clean and I'm done...so easy. I have customers that love to slather armor all on their interior which makes cleaning the interior more difficult. They do that because they are either misinformed or uneducated. I offer coatings to everyone who walks in my doors because they are profitable but mainly because they will make clients lives easier.

wow after cleaning one just had to take pic these are the headrest of my 2008 honda element used ik foamer 50/50 with distilled water then scrubbed with carpet brush on my orbital then used just a cheap carpet estractor from canadian tire used to much soap at first then got the hang of it did seats and floor very happy