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Not sure I'd call this a tutorial (a little pompous) but I wanted post my first experience with V5 ONR and Ultra Ceramic Seal. My test car is a 2001 BMW Z3 (my personal Garage Queen) - it was lightly dirty, mostly dust & pollen. I did my usual 2 bucket mixture of V5 ONR (1 oz in 2 gallons and .5 oz in 2 gallon rinse bucket), with a Big Red Sponge/Ultimate Drying Towel. On first impression I thought V5 was thicker than V4, more like Opti-Coat NR. The smell is the same, slightly medicinal (Opti-Coat is more floral to me). When shaken, V5 foamed much more than V4, ironic because in general ONR doesn't foam, much to the frustration of people who love foam cannons. I didn't see any difference in cleaning power or release of dirt from my sponge (Dr G states better release in a benefit of V5 - but it's hard to quantify). Another characteristic is supposed to be V5 slickness, but because I used Ultra Seal as a drying aid immediately, I couldn't test. Ultra Ceramic Seal comes in the traditional Optimum bottle/sprayer, not the Opti-Coat style. I found the sprayer easier to modulate and used much less product than Hyper Seal. Ultra worked well as a drying aid and looked great (still does). The most obvious quality was slickness (I know gloss, shine, slickness, etc are very hard to compare) - I felt the improvement was tangible...and continues today, 7 days later. Hydrophobics were top notch. This week I'll be washing another car and this time will experiment - one half original ONR/Hyper Seal, one half V5 ONR/Ultra...or maybe I'll mix & match and really confuse us all?

As promised, I tested the new formula ONR last week. The car washed had Opti-Coat Pro applied 7 years ago by Yvan (the coating is still there) and hadn't been washed in 4+ weeks. I used the standard mix in 2 buckets with separate sponges (Big Red and Big Gold), splitting the card down the middle. I didn't take pictures - it was in my garage, cloudy day, and I never find pictures all that helpful. Everything from here is subjective: First observation, the original ONR had larger beads, the New Formula had smaller beads that sheeted off quickly. Not sure how hydrophobic ONR is, the car had Hyper Seal used as drying aid when last washed, so may be some combination, but there was an obvious difference. I didn't see any obvious difference in cleaning power or shine, but the rinse water for New ONR was substantially darker (more dirt). I did feel a difference in slickness, the New Formula being maybe 20% slicker (very subjective, I know). For a blind test, I had my wife run her hands over the paint and she agreed the New Formula felt slicker (she commented her fingers dragged more on original ONR). For whatever it's worth -

Dr G has made some tweaks to ONR (something he does more than people know) that resulted in better "release" characteristics and improved cleaning - dirt falls off wash media more easily and keep the wash media cleaner. There are other revisions being tested on several products and announcements will be forthcoming. Dr G NEVER rushes reformulations, but they are worth waiting for.

I promised the Optimum Forum to do a product comparison of Hyper Seal and Ultra Ceramic: Last weekend I washed/detailed 2 cars. The first was washed with ONR (5th revision) and Ultra Ceramic Seal was used as a drying aid. No problems and Ultra went on easily with no streaking. This car had Opti-Coat Pro applied 8+ years ago, but it's still present. The 2nd car washed with ONR V5, then 1/2 had Ultra Ceramic applied as drying aid and the other Hyper Seal (new version). This car has had a graphene coating applied (2 years ago) and has regular Hyper Seal applications. There was no difference in application ease or streaking. Observations - I see no difference in gloss or shine - I used a spotlight and bright sunlight. Truthfully I frequently don't see differences some point out and question the power of suggestion...or could be old eyes? There was a tangible difference in slickness - Ultra was noticeably slicker (made Hyper feel almost grabby in comparison). Both bead water but Ultra's were smaller. Also, when old version Hyper Seal was sprayed on beads, they disintegrate (used to demo that), but the new formula does not. Curious if that's an effect from ceramic components? When Ultra is sprayed on beads they disintegrate/sheet. That might indicate a difference in hydrophobics? I much preferred the Ultra sprayer, allowed better control of product applied. I will monitor which sheds dirt the best and durability (to the best of my ability).

I got my new truck in June of last year and wanted something that wasn't rinse, wash, rinse again then rush to dry it before the water spots. Its a full size truck so lots of surface area. Not sure how I found optimum products but it might have been Scottwax on youtube who I just saw is going to start making more videos, just did one a few weeks ago. I started out with the BRS, then I saw the UBS I wanted to try that as well. I could never get used to the UBS though, just seems a little to small for my hands. So anyway I started washing both of our vehicles weekly as it was just so easy. The only time I've used a power washer was to knock crud/mud/salt chunks off, other than that its only been pre spraying with ONR 256/1 in a IK 2 gallon pump sprayer. I'll usually use the pre spray from the belt line down and the front and rear bumpers (my gfs car attracts everything to the vertical surface of the trunk and the rear bumper). I did want to try some other wash media, I ended up using (and still do) the cyclone ultra wash mitt. I don't put my hand in it but is more comfy for me. I realized I kept dropping the BRS, I have atrophy in both arms and hands and honestly I don't know why wrapping my fingers around the BRS was harder than putting my hand on top of a mitt. I did try some other brands of rinseless. I think the worst was P&S Absolute, smelled and felt like body lotion to me. Also tried McKees N-914 as well as DIY Detail rinseless. For me the McKees and DIY Detail didn't have the slickness that ONR does. The way that DIY Detail foams up I feel like its soap but who knows, could just be me. The big difference was going from other brands one week and then using ONR again the next week and immediately feeling how much slicker it is, I don't want to say the others were grabby but they didn't feel as smooth and free flowing. Another thing with ONR, prespraying the panel allows the dirt to make its way down to the kick panels or bottom of the car. Both P&S and DIY stuck the panel. But here is the weird thing, after washing it, the liquid on the car does sit longer and doesn't evaporate as fast which is great for when you're drying. In the beginning I was using OPC for about a month getting the crud off of both our wheels. The OPC works great, I try to use it a few times during the winter to clean the fender liners with the optimum Wheel and Body Brush. After enough applications and using hyperseal I just clean the rims with ONR and foam OPC on the tires once a month. Dry with some hyperseal and the brake dust, dirt and grime just come right off the next time. I've been using optiseal or hyperseal as a drying agent from the beginning and love the ease of drying. In the fall and spring I also dry apply hyper seal before it gets to cold out, not sure if it does anything as I wash our vehicles weekly but it gives me some piece of mind. I was soooo sold on rinseless that June of 2023 I got by brother a full kit for his birthday as he had just got a new suv. I think I got him into cleaning his car more than twice a year and going through car washes. All in all I love ONR and the optimum line of products. Oh right thats the other thing, it takes so little time to wash you can do it in bright sun when its 90 or below freezing temps in the winter (my record is 18F)

SEMA 2023 begins at the end of October and Optimum will be introducing several new and/or upgraded products. A line of improved D/A machines will be displayed and updated takes on existing products will be announced. The modern OPT labels are already going into distribution and that will continue as the old labels are filtered out.

Optimum is now selling New Formula No Rinse Wash & Wax. Like the reformulated ONR, New Wash & Wax has improved cleaning, gloss, and release properties.

honestly, shrinking was a necessary thing. IMO the staff growth was due to increased sales and potential new product lines, but also because Dr G was ill and could not longer manage the day to day. I was out of the loop in Arkansas and had little interaction with HQ. David made decisions (and allowed decisions to be made) while he was under treatment, that were premature, risky, not his usual MO. Once reasonably healthy he reacted to those decisions and instituted a variety of business moves, some he probably regretted, but others absolutely necessary. He is in full control now and I expect increased staffing in the future, but he will build slowly due to past mistakes. David is slow to trust and some recent history has reinforced that feeling. I'm fortunate that he trusts me, mainly because we have a long history, I'm loyal, have no ulterior motives, and don't need this job. I'm a lucky dude!

Dr G has tweaked 2 Optimum products to improve performance. The changes were not big enough to consider reformulations. ONR has been updated to allow better release of dirt, so wash media stays cleaner. Hyper Polish has greatly extended work time, allowing safer polishing and require less product. There are other product revisions under review and they will be announced when available.

I've been tempted to mention the new and newly realized products in the sales funnel, but understood I had to wait until they are official. The announcements will be in the next few days and when I get the details, they will appear here! I can say that there are some new products and some re-positioned for improved marketing. A new line of polishers, both DA and rotary is coming and some will be cordless. Anyone watching will see that Optimum has introduced many new formula products in the last year, some substantial improvements, some more incremental. I can report that Dr G is incredibly engaged right now, paying attention to the industry, competition, and marketing. What once seemed a simple business has gotten very complex, with new manufacturers appearing monthly and taking chunks of the market, along with a huge increase in advertising. As one Optimum Regional Manager pointed out, poaching of employees AND customers is at new highs.

Optimum has been on a roll lately with new formulas - the technology keeps advancing! I remember thinking Hyper Seal was a Wonder product and it's been improved twice in the last 2 years. The hybrid formula not only lasts longer, but has greater hardness and chemical resistance.

I will, to the best of my ability without feedback from Dr G who was in Boise, respond to Setec's questions/complaints. Concerning staining of wash media, I've seen it mentioned occasionally but it's never been a problem for me (media always came clean with washing) and not sure why it's a big deal? Not sure about the color switch from yellow to blue and again, does it matter? Color is added and shouldn't effect performance. OPT does not manufacture clay, but sources it. I asked Dr G where Ceramic Seal fit in the lineup and his response was filling a customer desire for more gloss/slickness (as, mentioned by Red) with durability being a sidebar issue. Gloss and slickness (hard to determine by the layman) have never been target characteristics for Optimum, but the incredible increase in products from spray ceramics to graphenes marketing those benefits inspired Ceramic Seal, so OPT is responding to consumers. Opti-Trim, originally 2 products but reformulated into 1 application, was a Pro product that I recommended to Dr G years ago to open up for retail. It's an excellent product that doesn't require any special knowledge to apply (usually one of the conditions for Pro Only products). Making Opti-Coat products available through Rag Company (they've always been available directly from Optimum) - to push back against Setec suggesting Dr G is overly sensitive to Pro Installers, it's more that he appreciates them and works to help them be successful...sometimes to the detriment of OPT sales (see Opti-Trim) . I believe (and this my opinion only), he expected them to be more engaged in selling the OC line since it was an exclusive profit opportunity. Some do a nice job, but in general they are much more interested in selling installs vs products. The OC line gave them access to a premium product not available from other car care sources, in unique packaging and sizes. Many of the products are uniquely formulated for ceramics and demonstrably better on that surface, others are line extensions to provide a full line for installers. Other observations - as someone who spent a lifetime in the Food Industry, the number of variations in products is part of the marketing strategy and exists everywhere. Dr G understands the downside of line extension - expense (development, packaging, labels), sales cannibalization, complicated manufacturing, mixed messaging, and conflicting strategies. I would argue OPT has less product proliferation than most anyone and I bet we could name several companies that are serial offenders. Second, there is no handbook for this business, so many products are new or offshoots, and the marketing is crazy. Look at the new companies just this last few years - I watched Pan the Organizer award his products of the year (that was an adventure and a whole another story) - the number of categories, sub categories, sub sub categories was mind numbing (and 90 minutes I'll never get back). I've worked with Dr G in one capacity of another for 19 years and I've seen him take wrong paths, open dry holes, make erroneous assumptions...and hit home runs, but he's never been unethical, dishonest, or greedy. OPT has had to retrench products, develop new strategies (Opti-Coat 2.0), reorganize personnel, deal with new competitors and surprisingly similar product lines/marketing buzzwords, and survive major illness by the owner, but now has a clear direction - Accelerating into the Future!

Just FYI...Ive switched to P&S Absolute lately...not because I wanted to but because I cant get ahold of OPT stuff in my country anymore and I have to use alternatives now... Now just my opinion (not to influence anyone) I miss ONR...Absolute isnt nearly as good as ONR...It doesnt mix well with water, its not potent enough, it doesnt smell pleasant (personal thing, but I like the blueberrie smell ONR has more then the coconut lime that Absolute has). It does clean the car streak free at the end Ill give it that but its nothing special or a miracle wonder product it was first highlighed to be. Media hype really does create wonders out of thin air. So people...If you are having doubts dont! Stick with your ONR and forget about Absolute. In my opinion Absolute is not even in the same league as ONR, but way under. Its nothing special.

Well, it at least made my life easier and brought a lot of relief. This evening was my first attempt at a chrome delete on a Tesla Model X. I used Plasti Dip on the chrome emblem and name plate on the rear and there was SO much overspray that I was assuming would come off somewhat easily... Not so much. My first inclination was to use a clay bar, which didn't do much. Enter Optimum T.A.R. and it came off with ease. I'll need to reapply the Opti-Seal and Car Wax topper, but that will take mere moments. And on the rest of the car, I did a heavier process with 3D ONE on a Uro-Fiber pad with my Rupes Duetto. Some panels needed their ACA500 compound. I used Optimum Hyper Polish on blue Hex Logic pads to finish. Then I applied Opti-Seal, followed by Car Wax. It looks absolutely gorgeous. Black paint is my favorite to polish. Just needed to report back, and thank Dr. G once again for always saving my bacon.

I’ve used Absolute (ARW) for one wash. The product itself is very viscous and needs to be shaken vigorously before pouring. When poured into a bucket of water it wants to clump together and not evenly distribute. It requires significant agitation to evenly mix where you can simply swirl the bucket with ONR to get an even suspension. The experience when actually using ARW is virtually identical to ONR. If used in a blinded fashion where color and smell were removed I wouldn’t be able to tell you which product was which. There might be a slight edge in slickness to ARW but that might be due to bias introduced from marketing that I’ve seen. A lot of discussion was had around water spots. My tap water is approximately 150 ppm. I observed no difference in water softening ability when used in direct sunlight and allowed to dry. Both products performed excellently and left no spots that weren’t easily removed after re-wetting the panel. I did a similar test that @Redgrandam performed. I diluted 2 oz of each product (ONR and ARW) in 1 gallon of water. I have approximately 2 oz of dirt in each container. First photo is immediately after shaking. Each subsequent photo is taken at approximately 30 seconds, 1 minute, 2 minutes, then 5 minutes after shaking. ARW appeared to drop dirt with slightly greater velocity and reached steady state just before ONR. I don’t feel like these observations can be used to draw any conclusions from this simple test as there are too many variables that haven’t been controlled for. If I switched the containers then I might have observed the opposite for just one example. I think ARW is the first product to reach parity with ONR. After initial impressions, I will continue to favor ONRWW as my preferred rinseless wash for maintenance washes. I plan on rotating between ONRWW and ARW until I use ARW up.

Optimum is announcing the reformulation of Opti-Seal. The new formula has increased ceramic components making it closer to Hyper Seal. New Opti-Seal will have greater gloss, slickness, and durability, plus increased hydrophobic properties. New Formula Opti-Seal is shipping now!

The following is from an Optimum customer: I can recommend Optimum Paint Prep for another use, beyond its normal application. It is excellent for removing residue and deposits on the inside of car windows. Oftentimes these result from petroleum-based vapors and conventional window cleaners either are ineffective or leave streaks which have to be polished out and often return. Optimum Paint Prep handles this problem easily and cleanly.I have been testing Optimum Clear Coat Restorer as a coating for polycarbonate headlights which have lost their factory UV-protection after polishing; thus far, results are encouraging.

Hey All, Small backstory; I'm a part-time professional detailer doing mainly dealer work. Which works great for me since it's awesome practice and an almost never-ending supply. In just a couple of months, I've gotten a million times better/more efficient and learnt a boat-ton. I almost solely use Optimum products, however during these couple of months, I kept switching between Menzerna polishing compounds and OPT ones. Slowely but surely, my Menzerna polishes are becoming redundant, as I'm learning to use the OPT ones to great effect. To the point: So today, I was assigned a badly neglected and weathered white van. I get these quite often, but I figure this was the worst one yet: I tried to polish out similar ones with OPT polishes before but to no succes, neither with rotary or FLEX XFE 7-15. What did somewhat work though was a High Speed Rotary, an 8' wool pad and lots of Menzerna 400. It would get the paint shiny pretty quickly, but of course not near/around the edges. It was also hard work and I don't believe the results would be lasting. Well fast-forward a month, and I've really learnt alot about the OPT spray polishes, since I use these most of the time. I got a Zentool 21mm, Lake Country 4000 pad washer, and a meriad of microfiber and wool pads. Yvan's advice to stick to low tool speeds finally struck home. I'm finally polishing on speed 2 (which was difficult to do if you're used to speed 4-5...) with no weight on the tool and getting awesome results. I've never gotten flat black cars to be so nice so quickly, as with Hyper Polish on a Rupes Yellow wool pad. Back to the van in question. This was the third car of the day, and I knew I was going to get a good hourly rate. I felt like upping the anté and readied my Zentool 21e2 for duty. Armed with Hyper Compound on rupes blue wool and Hyper Polish on sprayed Rupes Yellow wool. I took my time, and arm speed was nice and slow. Firstly Hyper Compound, 6 sprays on a spinning pad, and about a 3ft x 3ft section. I saw the oxidation vanish before my very eyes, but after 3 cross-sections (left-right, up-down, left-right), some was still remaining. I then switched to Hyper Polish, 4 sprays on the pad, and with the Hyper compound residue remaining on the panel, again performed 3 cross-sections. Of course the typical easy OPT wipe-off revealed the new state of the paint. And the results were: Hyper awesome.....? This van is losing all it's old dried out skin! Even around and near the edges, there's no comparison to when I used a rotary. I'm so glad I'm getting to grips with the Optimum polishes. I wouldn't have gotten these results as easily with any other polishing system I believe.

From the good doctor: Good questions. Etching for the most part is chemical break down of paint. When bird poop or bug guts are left on paint the acids and enzymes in these products will break down paint over time and sun light will accelerate it. The haziness or cloudiness is basically broken down clear coat paint. Etching from water spots is due to the caustic nature of sodium and calcium silicates and phosphates breaking down paint and leaving residue on the surface. With ceramic coated cars there is no break down of paint since acids, enzymes, or caustics can not penetrate the surface of ceramic clear coat. There is only some staining or residue left that needs to be removed or dissolved. For ceramic coated cars after removing the bird droppings and bug guts which are organic just leaving the stain in sun light will cause UV to break down the stains which disappear after a few days. With water spots which are inorganic it has to be dissolved chemically or removed mechanically to get the stains out.

I was oleophobic for a while. But then I switched to mostly olive oil.

Dr G has told me he's working on new formulas for several products, but not which ones. As soon as I know something, you'll know it!

,Well, I finally put in an order for some Optimum products, after months and months of 'research'. In that time I just fell in love with the products. It all just sounded and felt right. All the information provided in the podcastst, from Yvan Lacroix, from The Rag Company. I got so excited and wanted to try this for myself. And today, it arrived, I was so happy to recieve all the stuff and couldn't wait to try it. I even got to speak to a 'local' Opti Coat Pro+ certified installer, which hightened the excitement. I got some ONR, OCW, OPC, OOS, the BRS (sadly delayed), and the brush. I tried it out on my dad's car first, since mine was sadly too clean for my liking. It hadn't been washed in about 3 weeks, when it recieved a minor polish from yours truly. So, using a low GSM 70/30 open loop microfiber with the ONR, no pre-spray, it felt kind of wrong. During the first pass, it felt kind of like I was grinding the dirt into the paint, but the second pass felt super slick. Cleaning power was absolutely amazing, I didn't really expect that. Once dry, even without using OCW or OOS, the car felt nice and slick. Cleaning windows was an absolute breeze, inside and out (even with dog saliva....). I am sure I pushed the product a little to far, with there being kicked up sand on the paint, behind the wheels, which I didn't spray off. But there were no deep scratches. Well, the solution was pretty dark now, so what do you do? You go clean all the glass of your house inside and out. They have never been this clean and slick, even though the solution I was using was really dirty! I was amazed. So what do you do with this dirty water ? You go knock on the neighsbour's door. You know, the one with the extremely dirty car, and you say you wanna clean their's. They look at you like you lost it but of course they happily agree. The car had months of thick road film on it. Grey dust along the whole side. Well, no problemen for the dirty ONR solution. Even the windows got squeeky clean. The brake dust on the wheels had corroded, so of course, that's too much for ONR to handle (Even though it did clean up one wheel really nice on it's own). I was amazed at the insane amount of power in OPC. Applied straight on the ONR wet wheel, 3 squirts. All that brake dust just came RIGHT off with the towel. It was absolutely INSANE! The car looked pretty amazing when I was done (Car was fairly new). I have cleaned 3 more cars after that today, and all have been an amazing experience. Can't wait for the BRS tomorrow. I want to say thanks to Optimum Car Care for the amazing line of products. It was such an amazing experience. I'm so happy with the products and I am sure I will never use soap again. I am eager to try the polishing line as well, and somewhere down the line I will get my car coated as well. I am now officially........ An OPT fanboy!

WARNING, LONG AND LIFE-DRAINING POST AHEAD! I've been brainstorming the following ALOT, and I would like to know the way to clean a car in the fastest (10-15 min), most efficient (Minimal tools) and most ecological (Less hot water, energy used, minimal chemicals) way, using mostly Optimum products, for normal cars. What follows is the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. but first: What do I class as a normal car: A car that is in relatively good or average shape. Car has never seen a paint correction, or fancy coating and has been washed every couple of months at the carwash, while being driven almost daily. Thus it hasn't been washed since a couple of months, and it won't be afterwards for a couple of months. Dirt to be expected: - Lot's of brake dust (Normal people use their brake ALOT lol). - Bird droppings (Mostly days or weeks old) - Sand kicked-up behind wheels and along doors. - Oily film along the side and frontal area. As this will be mostly a substitute for a Automated Car Wash, minimal Swirling is okay, gloss is important as well as cost (Minimal time). I hope to make a healthy business case out of this. For extremely dirty cars, or a post-winter wash, The Automated Car Wash is preferred. As a remark, I have no Hands-on experience with ANY of the Optimum Products as of yet, I'm an engineer, so I like to do alot of Desk research first. Thus, after countless hours (Really, 100's), of researching into this product line for my particular application, I will state what I have till now. Field research (Testing the products for myself) will soon commense. I have chosen this category as I would like the experts and other forum members to chime in with their ideas and criticism, or maybe even know the real Optimum Way, as envisioned by Dr. G. Hopefully, we/I can create the perfect Tutorial for this particular cleanse. The only wrong answer, critique or question is the one that isn't given or answered, so please don't be shy in stating your opinion. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Let's begin. 1. What Products to use to get it done: Optimum Big Red Sponge. A great re-usable wash media. Yvan an Levi have reported to get nearly a 1000 washes out of it, before retiring it from their business. I think that's a bit extreme, but 400 should be possible surely. Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar. Optimum Body and wheel Brush The Rag Company Jersey Bug scrubber. A big brush, suitable for wheel wells. Tire shine of choice Tire shine applicator pad of choice. Spray bottle. A big bucket for the wash solution (5-Gallon Container, 1-2 Gallon wash Solution) A Power Washer (Don't need a lot of pressure or waterflow here) or a water hose (WHAT??????? Yes.... I'll get to it later. For the pressure washer, a wide spray nozzle (40 deg.) is preferrable, generally the lowest pressure will suffice and is preffered.) Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Optimum No rinse Wash and Wax, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (So far for "The Optimum Way" , and rinsing clearly went out the door as well, what am I even doing here?? We'll get to it!) Optimum Opti Seal and/or Optimum Car Wax Several Low pile, low GSM Drying Towels? (Whatever Yvan thinks is the way to go, I am uncertain what he thinks is best to use for drying a car.) 2. What to do? (Also read the tips in section 3 before you begin) Firstly, we want to pre-soak the areas with caked on dirt (Bug splatter, Bird droppings, Kicked-up sand) using the preferred Wash solution . Think about your college days, no dish washer and no time (or drive) to do the dishes. Stacking up for a couple of days, the dirt cakes on. You can either scrub for a while (not suitable for car paint) or dunk it in water and let it soak for some time (You can't quite dunk your car, so soaking will have to do.) Spray the Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel generously onto the soiled wheels. Make sure to cover all of the wheel, except for plastic parts. Leave to dwell for several minutes (Bilt Hamber states the product is best to be avoided on plastic surfaces, however, in my opinion this is unavoidable. I think the product hasn't been thoroughly tested (Because they don't have to, costs alot of money and the product sells fine as is) on plastic surfaces (Painted or unpainted) and thus they can't garantuee it's safe. I have a suspision it is safe on wheels but we will never know. DO NOT LET THIS PRODUCT DRY OUT). Using the Jersey Bug Scrubber, scrub the dead bug splatter from the frontal area of the car. (Pretty self explanatory, don't go too crazy, I thinks there is alot of chance of swirling here, if that bothers you. You might consider using Optimum Power Clean as a Pre-soak, though staining could be induced by this product.) Using the Optimum Body and Wheel Brush, scrub the grills (and emblems) present on the car. Could also be used on the bug splatters. (If you dare, however if you trust Optimum, this brush will not cause any scratches. I believe them fully. The dirt in the brush may cause scratches, in my unvalidated opinion.) Using the Big Red Sponge and the preferred Wash Solution, Wash the car, starting at the roof. Glass windows in doors that can be lowered should be avoided. The Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel should be used on areas you maybe can't reach with the sponge. Wash the car in sections, varying from the whole car, half a panel or a complete panel to a 10 x 10 section, depending on the weather. The solution shouldn't dry on the paint, but if it does, no biggie, Just re-wet, this causes extra work though. After the Wheel Cleaner has been sitting for 5 minutes (If possible with regards to heat and humidity) rinse off thoroughly. This will likely happen during step 4, resume that step afterwards.(Keep your distance during this step, as you want to avoid bombarding the brake system. So if possible, wash the wheel at the opposing end of the brake caliper, turning the wheel to rinse all the rim real estate. Cleaned sections must be sprayed with Optimum Car Wax and/or Optimum Opti-seal, amount as per directions. Placedry low-pile towel onto sprayed area and wipe the cleaned section. Using a low pile-towel, damp from the preferred wash solution, wipe and clean the glass areas you haven't cleaned yet. (Cleaning the windows this way avoids water getting past the window seals. Nothing bugs me more that having clean glass that gets stained from lowering/rasing. Clean glass is extremely important for happy clients Using a DRY low pile-towel to dry the glass area. Clean the wheel wells to your liking, using your brush of choice. Using an Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel, slightly soaked with the preferred wash solution. Wipe all of the door jams. Dry the door jambs. Apply Tire Shine of choice to the tires, according to the directions of the product. 3. Now what do we see? A Clean and well protected car! 4. Got some More......... Tips? I sure do, glad you asked. You can use Optimum Power Clean as a pre-spray, if you think it's necessary. It's an alkaline cleaner which means it's inherently more effective on organic matter. (Optimum officials, am I right on this??) There is some evidence that Power Clean doesn't need to be rinsed off after use, if followef by Optimum No Rinse and given right circumstances. HOWEVER, the general concencus seems to be that it needs to be rinsed off. Bilt hamber seems to be the most effective cleaner on the market. This could possibly be substituted for Optimum Ferrex, but I am doubtfull that works as well, to be honest. No disrespect to Optimum, but power to Bilt Hamber on that aspect! Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel could be replaced by The wash solution and some elbow grease. Your brake system will thank you for it! However, from time to time, Auto wheel or Ferrex needs to be used, to make the imbedded particles water soluable and remove them. After step 8, use Optimum Opti-seal for a Rain-X effect. It won't match it of course, applied in this manner. Now, for added efficiency, one could keep the wash solution of a previous wash, and use this for door jambs and wheel wells, before commensing with step 5. I don't really like cleaning tires, I don't think there is a need for it. 5. Why do it like this? Sadly, the rhiming part stops here. As an engineer (With a love for a clean car) I don't like to make uneducated guesses and or go with the feeling "don't worry about it, it'll be fine". I have done my best to really dig deep with everything regarding these products. However, you will still find alot of "Gut feeling" troughout this procedure. Nowadays, even normal cars are driving spaceships, with billions of dollars of R&D and Years of testing by a enormous group of very, very, VERY smart people. Cars nowadays basically have to be bulletproof (Or so I like to think), because they endure the most extreme climates. Cars are driven trough rainstorms, while having hundreds of electrical components, connections and sensors out in the open. These are sealed as much as possible, but still water should be avoided at all cost. Also, to avoid erosion, one should really try to minimize the contact the metal of the car has with water. Water is a great inducer of rust. All the stuff you pick up on the road (Except for salt, which is worse than water) isn't likely to be corrosive. Motor oil isn't, Gearbox oil isn't, Cooling liquid isn't, Brake fluid isn't. Maybe A/C fluid is, but I don't think so. Gasoline could be corrosive, i'm uncertain. It's preferable to introduce as little water as possible to the car. Also, I really don't think the Automated Car Washes is 'A one size fits all' solution. It's designed to make the most filthy of white (White cars don't get dirtier of course, it's just easier to spot.) cars look good again. Chemicals used could be described as 'Extreme', at least on the pH-scale. I think swirling is a non-issue for 99% of the people, so that's not the problem. The energy usage, amount of water and chemicals is, to me. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. The product of months and countless hours of researching, brainstorming and envisioning. HOWEVER, I really think that most of it is still able to be improved or even changed completely. I really hope you've read it all, but that is alot to ask for anybody but myself, and thus my graditude would be inmeasurable. Greetings from Holland, Rik

Great welcome Another detailer gone to the dark side Ron lol. I went from optimum car soap to onr right away and have loved it. About 5 years now. Get the gloss coat on the car and all the other optimum products just look and perform better. My list Gloss coat great protection and gloss Onr a must Hyperseal protection love it The new ceramic wax goes on even at 4c so does hyperseal I just rotate through these products as a drying aid .

Opti-Coat Pro3 is the ultimate in ceramic paint protection and gloss. It is the most advanced coating which provides protection and gloss and is four times the thickness of Opti-Coat Pro or Pro+. Opti-Coat Pro3 provides the most chemical resistance and environmental protection. Opti-Coat Pro3 enhances the durability of your vehicle’s paint by adding several layers of protection for the life of your car. Opti-Coat Pro3 provides a protective ceramic coating with superior resistance to swirling, chemical etching, and fading. Then, Opti-Coat Pro3 Top Coat is added to further increase the hardness and scratch resistance of the ceramic clear coat for the life of your vehicle’s paint. Opti-Coat Pro3’s advanced formulation was designed to create a tougher, thicker, more scratch resistant, multi-layer clear coat with greater depth and gloss. It is a permanent hydrophobic layer of protection. It is chemically resistant so it won’t dissolve after multiple car washes and won’t diminish under corrosive acids like bird droppings. Any additional dirt, grime, or bugs come off with ease and you will never have to get your car waxed again. Furthermore, it is non-oxidizing so Opti-Coat Pro3 will lock in that shine and protects against damaging UV rays for the life of your car. OC3 is a Pro Only product

New products - not on web site yet, but can be ordered via phone or email (901-363-4955 and info@opticoat.com). There are 2 new cordless D/As (15mm and 22mm), a cordless Rotary and a corded Rotary. NO Optimum products are being discontinued.

I promised to do a comparison between Ultra and Hyper Seal, but life conspired to interrupt my schedule. First we had a World Class Hail Storm that damaged my home/area and introduced me to the new bane of my existence - insurance adjusters. Following has been a string of family & company visits (benefit of living at the lake)...and we have an army coming for the 4th. Finally the weather has alternated between hotter than h#ll and spot showers to ruin clean cars. I did detail my SILs Audi with Ultra and he was way impressed. Once the holiday are clear I'll get back on schedule...I promise.

Latest info from Dr G - Pro Coatings are dry to the touch in 1 hour, can get wet in 2-3 hours (particularly if Hyper Seal/Opti-Seal are applied), 90% hardness at 12 hours, and curing complete in 7 days.

Greetings, Polysilazane resins have been around for over 20 years and we have tested them thoroughly against our SiC based resins and although they offer good protection, SiC resins that we use in our coatings offer better protection and greater longevity. As for Hyper Seal, the 2022 version has some SiC resin in it that requires about 30 minutes to fully cure, therefore you do not want to touch the surface during the curing process since it is tacky as you mentioned. Once it cures, it leaves a g slick and glossy finish with greater protection than any other sealants. Ultra Ceramic Seal (UCS) works great as a topper for Hyper Seal or any other wax or sealant and provides great gloss, slickness, and hydrophobicity.

Back in the day, I stumbled across a YouTube video for Meguiar's Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax. Since I had to park on the street with no access to water, this started my new hobby of detailing my car at home. I eventually moved over to rinseless as my primary method of washing my car which led to ONR and Optimum products. I recently decided to try Opti-Clean for my wheels and for a light wash mid week when the car wasn't too dirty. I am beyond thrilled with the ease of use and gloss on the car. Love it!

not trying to take credit, but I think some of the ONR uses Dr G mentioned came from me...

Edit, never mind. I wrote to optimum and Dr. G wrote me back "You can apply Hyper Seal over Opti-Seal and there is no need to remove Opti-Seal or do any claying before the application." I replied asking him if hyper seal migrated under opti seal like it does wax and this was his answer. "Hyper Seal polymers are very compatible with Opti Seal polymers and they will combine together to give you full protection of both products which is why you do not need or want to remove Opti-Seal first."

I am late to the party on Optimum Polymer Technologies (OPT) the brand. I found OPT stemming from a water spotting issue I was experiencing when washing my personal black GMC in direct sun. I found ONR & bought the 8oz bottle. I am now able to wash my truck with no water spots. It works very well. I did have a technical question so I reached out to OPT, & to my surprise Dr. David contacted me to discuss my question. Dr. David educated me on the strengths of the OPT line so on my next polish & coat I decided to use OPT products. Specifically hyper polish, iron remover, prep spray, with gloss coat which we had discussed during our conversation. Like many of you I’ve used a number of product lines & ceramic coatings over the years & they all work but… Turns out, OPT is a uniquely efficient system that achieves jaw dropping results with a fraction of the effort of other ceramic coatings / lines I’ve used previously. This Camaro ( picture below) startedwith 94 GU on the gloss meter and after prep, polish, gloss coat, the actual gloss meter reading jumped to 104 GU, which a significant boost in gloss. Highlighting stand up way Dr. David handles customer interactions / does business in general plus the fantastic finish achieved from using OPT products- I’m sold, I look forward to using OPT in the future. And it all started with an 8oz bottle of Optimum No Rinse. Thanks again Dominic

For Scott or anyone to say a lack of beading is Proof of "wear" is a myth. Since there are more enthusiasts oj this forum than pros I don't want there to be misinformation being spread around. I call it as I see it. It's not personal and I'm not upset with anyone but a coating is something to reduce the workload. These "test" don't hold any water and they prove nothing. If you want to know if your coating is intact don't wash it for 6 months and then wash it. You will see the gloss return after being covered under all that dirt and the contrast will be noticeable from before and after. Many enthusiasts keep their car so clean which is fine but they never see the dirt cover the gloss, therefore the gloss becomes so "normal" that they almost don't even notice it anymore and are not sure if the money they spent or the work they did was worth it. Or if that was the right coating. When you let the dirt build up and then clean it you will see the gloss more intensly becuase it was dingy for so long. Anyway, I wrote a blog on this topic if anyone wanted to read it. www.wowoautodetailing.com The blog is called, To bead or not to bead...

Dr G answered your very long and detailed post - hope you understand how rare it is to have the CEO of any company do that. “Water behavior on a surface depends on how close the surface tension is to water. Water itself has a surface tension of 72 mN/m or dynes. The closer the surface tension is to 72 dynes the more sheeting you get and the further apart results in beading. For instance surface tension of waxes is around 35 dynes, silicones around 25 dynes, flouro polymers and ceramic coatings are around 15 dynes. Therefore ceramic coatings and fluoropolymers give you the best water repellency. The surface tension also depends greatly on what’s on the surface. If you have contaminants such as dirt, water spots/ mineral deposits, iron contaminants etc. will change the surface tension. This is why while using different cleaners you continuously improved the water beading and surface tension up until you used Power Clean. I think after using Power Clean you need a lot more rinsing to remove all the residue before you get back to the surface tension of your coating. The cleaners themselves cause sheeting by bringing the surface tension of water and coating or wax together since they have a hydrophilic and a hydrophobic end since cleaners contain surfactants (surface active agents). I don’t think there was a need for Power Clean in this case and the other cleaners you used are more effective in removing contaminants. So this is all about surface chemistry and the surface tension. I hope this answers your question. “

Gloss coat still going strong after a year through a Canadian winter in Ontario Canada. Did a thorough decon wash to revive the coating. The beading and sheating was flat on the lower panels. Did the following steps. foamed with optimum car wash-pressure rinsed off onr wash wit ubs Sprayed opc on vehicle-agitated with dampened onr microfibre towel then rinse applied iron remover then agitated with a clay towel. Rinsed off apply mineral deposit remover with dampened onr microfibre towel. Rinse The beading and sheating have been fully restored! Completed with onr wash with opti seal as a drying aid

The new formula Gloss-Coat has increased ceramic polymers that improve it's scratch/mar resistance, UV protection, and chemical resistance. Increased release properties allow it to shed dirt and other contaminates more easily, staying cleaner and making washing easier.

I decided to give N914 another shot for fairness, and because I spent $20 on it. once again reaffirmed this is a much better multi-purpose cleaner (think APC with no degreasing power) than anything else. I washed a big ol Ram big cab truck last night with it. it lays super flat on the paint, and when you go to dry, even with a drying aid it just kinda absorbs the “puddle” of water but leaves so much on the surface. Even with a twist loop towel. Honestly don’t understand how others have so much success with it. OH! And it’s supposed to be this fantastic “cleaner” rinseless that cleans the panel waaay better than ONR, but I have been washing with ONR for almost a year now and rarely do I see dirt on my drying towel if I presoak the panel before washing. There was an uncomfortable amount of dirt on my towel, like I’ve never seen. It looked like i hadn’t even washed the panel! Meanwhile ONR never lets me down. It dries SUPER fast, even with no drying aid or vehicle protection, and makes for a faster more efficient cleaner. And the way it beads on the surface and visually encapsulates the dirt gives me peace of mind. While N914 sits flat on the panel like it was rinsed with just water. Won’t be trying that experiment again. Just because ONR isn’t the newest shiniest wash out there, doesn’t mean it’s still not the king of Rinseless washing.

I was pretty heavy into detailing back from 1996-2001. Back then it was just Meguiar's for me. I wasn't aware of much else, aside from whatever our local pb&e shops were selling. Around 2008 I got back into it. Mostly just hand waxing my neighbor's vehicles in exchange for him mowing thr lawn. In 2011 I got a Porter Cable 7424xp, and everything changed. Since then, I've learned what kind d of companies I enjoy supporting, and those are the ones who conceive, formulate, create, and sell their own products, opposed to those who re-label from a big chemical blender. ONR was an obvious choice for me due to it's popularity. From there I picked up Opti-Seal and Car Wax. I had those products on the shelf for a few years, going back as far as 2015 or so. This past summer of 2021 saw me order almost ever consumer product available, and I can say why - it was because I remember one summer where I was testing Opti-Seal. I went to wash my car with ONR, and the dirt just jumped off the car. My problem was that I didn't like the water behavior of Opti-Seal (more on that later). In 2020 I took a job that had me installing miserable pro coatings that were insanely difficult and unyielding to work with. I decided then that Gloss Coat would be my coating in my own operation. Since I got to know the Optimum line I've been able to get the performance I was wanting out of Opti-Seal. I have it on my car, my mom's car, my gf's old truck that I bought, and her new Jeep Sahara has it on the wheels and windows (the paint got Gloss Coat, naturally). I have been very pleased with Opti-Seal's performance so far this winter that I think it can handle winter tasks going forward. One thing that surprised me was the efficiency of the spray on polishes with Optimum pads and the LC pad washer 4000. Wow. While I still need to experiment more with the big guns that is Hyper Compound, and Intensive Polish - Hyper Polish, and GPS are excellent, and very easy to use. So that's the short reason on the why and how I ended up here. I'm a huge fan of a former associates tutorials, and he spent a lot of time here. Even more so, it was a brief phone conversation with Ron that pushed me over the edge to sign up back in July of 2021.

I found this cool interview with the Dr.! In it, Dr. G explains a bit about the Hyper Paint Correction System and rivaling polishing compounds. Some nice info to be heard!

Damn, Daniel, back at it again with the white vans! Sinterklaas (Dutch early Santa kinda guy) gifted me yet again two weathered white vans. This time both not as bad as the one above, but still pretty bad. One van I attacked with Menzerna 400 and Rupes blue wool and the Zentool 21e2. That worked well, of course I had to stay away from any black trim, which is APITB on these kinda vans. But it sure did the trick! On the other van, I went the OPT way, And to achieve a one-step, I am at max limited to Intensive Polish right now. Hyper Compound leaves too much haziness and also slightly stains black trim in my experience. The van's looking pretty rough to begin with: So Intensive Polish and Rupes blue wool on the Zentool 21e2. The cut was insane, as was the finish!! I could see the oxidation disappear through the reflection of my headlamp. No staining on black trim, so I could go to town on this van! It saved a considerable amount of time compared to the one I did with Menzerna. In fact, the Dealer was absolutely astonished how quickly I finished the van. From start to finish, including interior and upholstery cleaning and engine bay cleaning, this van took me just 2.5 hours, in-sane! And there was little to no effort involved, due to the easy Hyper polish wipe-off with damp ONR towel. Way to go OPT!!

Update: My car is back and all has been fixed. It actually went in yesterday because it is supposed to rain tonight and I don't have a garage. The installers had to do a 2 step paint correction to get all the swirls out. They did a test spot first to make sure it would work before they did the entire car. They went out of their way to try to make the 3rd round as painless as possible and even came and picked my car up from work (so I wouldn't miss another day). I am only 10-15 min away depending on how many red lights you hit. It shouldn't have taken 3 tries but they really did stand by their work. Thank you all for the sanity checks and info!

I can promise you that beading is one of the last things Dr G looks at and is really just a byproduct of the characteristics he is concerned about. Tug and I have both commented on the obsession some have with beading - the amount, the size, how quickly they disperse. I get that beading is one of the easiest observable factors, but the cheapest wax on the shelf will create beads. The qualities Dr G is looking for, in no particular order, are durability, hardness, chemical resistance, appearance, ease of application, value, etc.

Let’s just put it this way instead of overthinking anything, the longer you can keep a freshly coated vehicle dry, the better it will be. When I coat ANY vehicle, I keep it dry for a minimum of 12hrs. I basically allow 1 day for full cure. Then I top it off with its topper before sending it out into the wild. You folks are just making something so simple, into something so difficult which is confusing most people that don’t understand coating application.

Like the title says, I recently got my first order of Optimum polishes, beinig Hyper compound (A GALLON!) and intensive polish. My experience is limited to using Mezerna 300 and the new Rupes line-up for the past year, for about 40 cars or so. So first time using Optimum polish; HOLY $#@&! A totally different experience, MUCH easier to work with. Where the traditional polishes are often difficuilt to evenly spread around, and can dry out or dust, OPT polishes are amazingly foolproof. I genuinly think it cuts my polishing time in half, or even more. Very easy to spread, easy wipe-off, great working time, little dusting (hyper compound MF Pad), fast application, to name a few. My IK trigger sprayer did seem to struggle a bit with Hyper compound. Haven't compared cut yet, but you can feel the grit in the Hyper Compound. The car I worked on today had basically unscratchable paint. Hyper Compound on a 6' MF Pad, XFE 7-15 speed 3, didn't do a lot. On the black pillars, it did cut very well. I was flying over the car, this is a(nother) game-changer for me. Thank you, Dr. G!

Troy does make an interesting point about other industries not using the Pro only model. Of course some do not need to, the cost and time resources required to access some items makes it an efficient barrier but ultimately the business owner can choose to set the rules for his or her products. I have questioned many things about OPT decisions in the past. Ron and his predecessors have engaged with me but still it all comes down to Dr G can set whatever rules he likes. There may or may not be a lot of profit in opening up a particular market and presumably Dr G weighs up the risks and concludes with a certain strategy which I guess is what he is paid to do. The only thing I fundamentally disagree with Troy about is the use of a green font, not on aesthetics grounds but because it is damned hard to read. On the plus side, I did enjoy your Youtube videos.

wow after cleaning one just had to take pic these are the headrest of my 2008 honda element used ik foamer 50/50 with distilled water then scrubbed with carpet brush on my orbital then used just a cheap carpet estractor from canadian tire used to much soap at first then got the hang of it did seats and floor very happy

I've frequently washed my riding lawn mower with leftover ONRWW - have a very shiny Husqvarna.

Chris Thomas OPT Regional Manager | Eastern USA Administrators 2,458 posts Posted 14 November 2008 - 01:20 AM Current version: v3 released March 2012 ONR Dilutions (Per Label): Wash solution: ratio 1:256 or 1 oz/2 gallons or 30 ml to 7.68 liters of water (3.9 ml per liter) Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon or 60 ml to 3.84 liters of water (15.6 ml per liter) Regarding quick detailer: before we introduced Optimum Instant Detailer, we listed a quick detailer dilution that has since been removed. You can still use it this way of course, but our dedicated product will perform much better. Quick Detailer: ratio 1:16 or 8 oz/1 gallon or 240 ml to 3.84 liters for water (62.5 ml per liter) Regarding the caps: 8oz size cap holds .25 oz or 7.5 ml 32oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml 128oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml Regarding hard water: You may increase the increase the ratio of the respective product dilution by 20% to adjust for minerals in water used. ONR Directions (Per Label): 1. Add 1oz to 2 gallons of water in a wash bucket 2. Soak wash media in solution and wash vehicle in sections 3. Dry each section two clean towels consecutively Alternate Method w/Presoak (Thanks SUPERBEE364 and EXCELDETAIL) 1. Spray down each panel with QD strength ONR. (pump type garden sprayer) 2. Wipe each panel down gently with a dripping wet MF from the ONR bucket. 3. Rinse and squeeze out the MF, get it dripping wet again, and redo the same panel. 4. Dry the panel with a clean MF followed by a second MF (Sup prefers to use distilled water exclusively, too.) No Rinse Guide With Pics by:Excel Detail FAQs (Thanks Dr. G, BENCE & ANTHONY O.): 1. Why does it feel slimy and not foam?: ONR should feel somewhat slimy, as this provides lubrication/encapsulation which carries away the unwanted dirt particles from the surface. This is a good slime. 2. Why is my wash media so much dirtier than when I do a traditional wash?: ONR binds the dirt to the wash media intentionally. You should change mitts as needed. They can then be soaked in regular detergent to release the dirt before rinsing or washed in the machine. 3. What are the environmental advantages?: Much less water is used by eliminating the rinsing step, not to mention on average only 2 gallons are used to wash vs. 6-10 gallons with the two bucket method (not including rinsing). Also, with a regular wash the mitt will release the dirt into the (usually 5 gallon X 2) rinse bucket, it would likely end in the storm drains when you dumped the buckets. With the ONR wash you can wash your mitts in your machine and dump the remainder of the 2 gallons of solution into the sink or toilet where the dirt goes to the right place where water can be treated/purified. Optimum Products also come packaged in HDPE bottles (which are one of the few widely recyclable plastics) 4. Should I still use the two-bucket method to prevent marring?: ONR softens water, so the bigger particles just sink to the bottom of the bucket. It's like having a built-in grit guard in the wash solution. Smaller particles end up in the wash media. 5. Is there any advantage to using DI/distilled water to make the solution?: Softer water cooperates well with ONR. ONR's actives bond to the minerals of hard waters, therefore you may add more ONR to harder waters. DI/distilled water have no such minerals and the cleaning/protecting power of ONR can be exploited without weakening. These kind of waters will feel slimier than tap water. 6. My ONR Clay lube lost its color, will it still do the job or is it ruined?: ONR may lose its color when the sun hits it directly, but this won't affect its performance. 7. My car is really dirty, should I use more of the concentrate?: Using significantly more than the recommended dosage won't multiply ONR's performance; it will work effectively with the recommended amounts. You can still fine-tune the dosage to your exact needs (soiling of the vehicle, water hardness, wash media type, etc.). (1 oz per gallon vs 1 oz per 2 gallons) Thank you for bringing up this question. The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water. The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles. The No Rinse polymers also bond to all automotive surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect paint from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted or other automotive surfaces. When you use 1 oz. of No Rinse in 1 or 2 gallons of water for your wash at the molecular level this provides hundreds of billions of polymer molecules to do what was said above. Additional product will not be necessary except if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates. In these cases some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. This is another reason why adding No Rinse to a regular car wash soap improves the results when using tap water. For claying, the recommended level is 2 oz. per gallon, however, the actual product usage is far less. For instance if you are using 16 oz. of clay lube to clay a car, at this dilution you are actually putting 1/4 oz. of No Rinse on the surface. Same thing goes for using No Rinse as a quick detailer. These levels were of course tested for several months and hundreds of washes of heavily soiled cars before we started offering No Rinse three years ago. I hope this helps answer your question. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again. Dr. G (copied from Optimum Forums Ask Dr. G section) 8. Can ONR be used to clean windows and interiors? Yes, ONR can be used for an interior and exterior glass cleaner. It can be used at the regular QD mix.....a bit stronger if you're doing nasty windows and a bit less if doing more regular upkeep type cars. If you notice streaks and smears then you need to cut it back with water. ONR Technique (Thanks SCOTTWAX): Body: YouTube - Washing a Cayenne with ONR Wheels: YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 1 YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 2 Engine: http://www.autopia.o...ine-detail.html Claying: YouTube - Claying with Optimum No Rinse Touch-ups: YouTube - ONR vs bird bomb Fenderwells:YouTube - Fenderwell cleaning with Optimum No Rinse Wash ONR Wash Media Threads: http://www.autopia.o...do-you-use.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-mitt.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html ONR Capabilities Threads: http://www.autopia.o...hed-limits.html http://www.autopia.o...onr-thread.html http://www.autopia.o...-silverado.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-pics.html http://www.autopia.o...9-onr-time.html http://www.autopia.o...s-stunning.html http://www.autopia.o...timony-onr.html http://www.autopia.o...ics-inside.html dervdave, SmoogAerornug, Calialick and 29 others like this Chris Thomas Regional Manager | Eastern USA Optimum Polymer Technologies, INC m: 931-267-2500 f: 866-441-7826

Yes, Yvan is retiring from Optimum but will continue doing training/consulting in the industry.