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Showing most liked content since 11/06/2012 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    bird-keeper

    IMG 20161016 160808815 HDR

    From the album 91 GTA

  2. 2 points
    A&J

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    You click on the time under the post (for example it says "9hours ago") and it takes you to that post. Dont forget to like my comment...apparantly the more likes I get the better the change I win OCP or other OPT stuff this month
  3. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-Seal on Tires?

    Opti-Seal will not hurt tires, but won't help them either. It is effective on rubber trim - tires are more porous and absorb product.
  4. 2 points
    oregonduck

    OID or OOC?

    I enjoy washing my own cars and keeping them looking good with the best products. I currently use OCW as my sole wax product and am very happy with the product. I use it after every wash since I don't wash the cars on a regular basis. I am looking for a product to spot clean bugs and small bird and tree droppings on a daily basis for maintenance between my full washes. I have been going back and forth between buying OID and OOC and just can't make a decision. I think both products would have different advantages but these are just based on what I've read online as I have not used either. I am assuming OOC would have more cleaning power than OID which would be great for the purpose of cleaning up the occasional bugs, bird or tree droppings after a drive. One of my questions is would using OOC on a regular basis for spot clean up also remove my OCW protection at the same time? On the other hand, I have been leaning towards buying OID for this spot cleaning purpose. I figure if OID offers enough cleaning power to wash off these type of spots (which should be fairly fresh considering my goal behind this product purchase is to stay on top of this) then I'm wondering if OID could work as my spot cleaner, but also offer me much more protection than OOC? Since I don't always get to do full wash with OCW application very regularly, I like the idea of the product I choose giving me extra protection from the elements as a bridge, and am assuming OID would offer more protection than OOC? But would OID have sufficient cleaning power for the bug/bird/tree spots? One more note, I wouldn't really be using either of these products for their intended use! I like OCW and the added protection and it is so easy I can't see using the OID instead of OCW as my LSP. On the other hand, I am kind of a purist when it comes to a full car wash, so wouldn't be using OOC for its intended waterless wash purpose. I hope this extra info helps, just looking for some expert advice on which product to buy for this spot cleaner purpose?
  5. 2 points
    Paul S

    Happy Birthday !

    Happy Birthday shout out to Dr. G. !!!!!! Hope you have a great day.
  6. 1 point
    Yvan

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Yes, wash with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), and enjoy.
  7. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Poli-seal on glass, plastic, and rubber

    well, Poli-Seal is a polish (as well as cleaner/sealant), so there can be white residue on trim and glass. It comes off easily with an ONR dampened micro fiber towel.
  8. 1 point
    A&J

    OCW application and streaking

    Yes exactly like that!
  9. 1 point
    Yvan

    Opticoat Care

    Thank you for having your vehicles coated, you will find that it’s a great investment. Please confirm what coating your received. If it’s Opti-Coat Pro or Opti-Coat Pro + you will have received a warranty card and they are warranted for 5 and 7 years respectively. If you received Optimum Paint Guard it has a 3 year warranty, and Gloss-Coat has no warranty, but will last 2-3 years with proper maintenance. Maintenance is simple, keep them clean with Opti-Coat No Rinse on a regular basis, and if you wish to add a little more pop you can use Opti-Coat Hyper Seal as a drying aid. To remove bonded contamination, we have 2 options that are very coating friendly. The first is a purely chemical decontamination. wash the car with Opti-Coat No Rinse Apply FerreX, allow to dwell, but not dry, agitate with an Opti-Coat No Rinse dampened MF towel, then rinse. Next, apply Opti-Coat Power Clean , allow to dwell, and rinse. Follow that up with a MDR bath, apply and agitate with a damp MF towel, allow to dwell, then rinse. Finally wash with Opti-Coat No Rinse, dry using Opti-Coat Hyper Seal. Seeing as your in California, a less water intensive approach is to wash the car with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), while the panel is still damp with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), apply one spray of Optimum Car Wax, and use the wax/onr mixture as your clay lube. Dry the panel immediately after you are done with the clay. Here is a brief video describing the process
  10. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Product Suggestions

    Welcome to all things Optimum and congratulations on investing in the best Coating available! The Opti-Coat line of products was formulated for Coated cars, but Optimum products work well too. For normal maintenance we recommend Opti-Coat No Rinse (or M-Wash for traditional cleaning with hose). You don't need to "top" OCP+ but if you choose to, Hyper Seal is an excellent sealant, provides a sacrificial barrier to swirls, and is incredibly easy to use. Other manufacturers products will work, but do not use polish (or cleaner waxes) on Opti-Coat Pro+. Abrasives will remove the Coating and should not be necessary. Using good quality cleaners, sponges, and towels should keep swirls to a minimum.
  11. 1 point
    A&J

    Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS)

    I have stumbled upon this thread on Autopia.org forum that I have found very interesting to read infact so much so I have decided to post it here for anyone interested in it. The post is from Yvan Lacroix describing the Hyper paint correction system. "Optimum Polymer Technologies Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) is a simple system designed to give superior results in less time while using less product. It’s a complete system designed to be simple to use and efficient without creating dust, or the need to tape off plastic mouldings. Consisting of 2 machines, 1 Compound, 2 polishes and 4 pads the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) gives you everything you need for correction and shine in one or 2 steps. The machines designed to work with the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) The Zentool 21E is a 900W random orbital polisher with a 21mm offset stroke. Unique in the industry with an easy to grip surface, the Zentool 21E is simple to use and will get swirl free professional results with very minimal effort and time. Important to the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) the Zentool 21E was designed with a backing plate to promote in pad cooling reducing heat because of the airflow possible only through Optimum Waffle pads. Able to use both 5 and 6 inch pads the Zentool 21E is a formidable correction tool. The Zentool mini is a 3 inch random orbital polisher that allows you to get into tighter areas. With it’s 12mm offset stroke it combines both polishing and correction abilities in a easy to handle and manoeuver package. The pads of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) listed in order of cut from fast cutting to fine polishing. Hyper Foam/ wool pad. Exclusive to Optimum this pad combines a short nap foamed wool face, with a soft foam interface to follow surface contours. This pad combined with Hyper Compound will quickly correct 1500G sanding marks, and provide a surface that just requires a final polishing prior to coating or wax application. Optimums Waffle pads have some specific design elements that allow them to work efficiently as an integral part of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS). A unique Velcro backing allows air to flow through it for optimal pad cooling. The waffle surface allows for air to circulate between the pad and paint. The waffle surface also eliminates pressure points and excessive drag caused by flat pads, allowing for more efficient pad rotation. The Orange waffle pad combines cut with good polishing abilities. The orange pad can be used with Hyper Compound for light to moderate defect removal, with Hyper Intensive Polish for a one step polish that has good correction and high gloss. When minimal correction is required Hyper polish will finish down LSP ready while providing correction. The Black Waffle pad is for use with your choice of Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish. Used as the final step following correction with Hyper compound it will quickly refine the surface left by Hyper Compound. Using the Black Waffle pad will give high gloss and provide minimal correction. The Blue Waffle pad is to be used with Hyper Polish as a refinement step when dealing with difficult to correct paints. The Hyper Paint Correction System is based around the synergy of the Hyper trio and the complete Optimum line. The Hyper trio are characterised by their ease of use, efficiency and how user friendly they are. Non staining, no taping of mouldings is required, non-dusting when used according to instructions, and using inter compatible nano abrasives the trio save time and effort. No need to wipe off the residue between steps as the synergy of the HPCS allows you to refine the surface without risking towel marring and wasting time removing the minimal residue. Hyper Compound is a cutting compound that easily removes 1500G sanding marks, while providing an easy to refine surface. Used with either the Hyper Wool/foam pad or the Orange waffle pad Hyper Compound provides both cut and gloss, without dust or hazing. For very heavy correction the Optimum Double Sided Wool pad can be used effectively with Hyper Compound. Hyper Intensive Polish is a cutting polish, providing a gloss finish and moderate cutting abilities its primary use is as a one-step polish. Used with the Orange or Black waffle pad, cut and finish can be adjusted. Hyper Polish is used in conjunction with the waffle pads to refine the surface after compound, or to provide exceptional gloss on paints that do not require correction. The synergy of the complete Optimum line is highlighted with the HPCS, and the time saving realized by using this synergy are evident. For a full correction detail utilizing the Optimum line, and how it saves you time follow these simple steps. Wash the vehicle with Optimum No Rinse(ONR). Decontaminate the paint using an Optimum Clay Towel and the ONR on the surface from the wash as lubrication. Determine the level of correction required and start with your first correction step over the ONR dampened surface, no need to dry or tape off the vehicle. Dampen your chosen pad with ONR wash solution (preferably in a pad washer) and simply spray 1 shot of Hyper Compound on the pad, no need to prime the pad, nor use a large amount of product. Not over using the product is a very important aspect and requires some adaptation for most experienced polishers. It’s imperative that you use a damp pad, and that no more than 1 spray of Hyper Compound of polish be used per section. With the Hyper Paint Correction System do not prime your pads, an clean and dampen your pads after every section. Using the Zentool move it slowly over the surface with a tool speed only as high as needed to allow the backing plate to turn (2-3 on the speed dial). Excessive speed is counterproductive as it creates heat. Pressure should be avoided, just the weight of the tool is sufficient. Again this is different than with most polishing products, just like more product does not mean more results, the same goes with speed and pressure, more will potentially reduce cut and finish. Allow the Hyper Paint Correction System to do the work, not you. The pad should be cleaned of excessive product and paint residue after every section and kept clean and damp with an ONR filled pad cleaner. Once the correction step is complete on the whole vehicle, proceed to the polishing step, there is no need to wipe off the minimal Hyper Compound residue. Doing a test spot will determine if you require Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish to refine the surface to make it ready for Opti-Seal, Optimum Gloss Coat or Opti-Coat Pro(For Opti-Coat Pro the included Primer Polish should be used instead of Hyper Polish). The Polishing step should require minimal time and passes, as any correction should be done in the first step. Using the pad/polish combination of your choice refine the surface while keeping your pad clean and damp. As with Hyper Compound only one spray of product on the pad is needed. If your paint is very difficult to finish, using a clean blue waffle pad dampened in ONR without any polish will aid in removing the polish residue, working in small sections at low speed To prepare the surface for application of an Optimum coating, remove the polish residue using a Micro-Fibre Towel dampened with ONR to soften and remove the polish residue safely , then apply a mist of Optimum Paint Prep on the panel and dry off both the ONR and Paint Prep.. The ONR will easily remove the polish residue and the Optimum Paint Prep will leave the surface ready for the coating. The Paint Prep Solution has many advantages over IPA when preparing for a coating. It has higher lubricity, allowing the coating to flow out and self-level better , reducing high spots. Optimum Paint Prep also removes all traces of wax and polishing oils leaving the surface as pure as possible for the Opti-Seal, Gloss-Coat or Opti-Coat Pro to bond."
  12. 1 point
    A&J

    Difference between GPS and poli-seal

    This was probarbly answered somewhere but again...What is the difference between GPS and Poli-seal. Both are supose to be "cleaner waxes" but which is more agressive? Do they contain the same sealant? Has anyone tested the durability side by side? Which lasts longer without being toped with wax?
  13. 1 point
    Billy, welcome to all things Optimum! Other Posters will have to assist with your questions about Reload, VTP, or Megs Tire Gel (Optimum does not test or comment on competitive products). Opti-Seal and Spray Wax are both compatible with ONRWW and both work as drying aids. I use OS due to it's greater durability, but it's a personal choice. I also use ONRWW on my interior with zero issues. Clay lube is for lubricity (should not effect clay performance) and ONRWW may offer greater lubricity due to the wax.
  14. 1 point
    Welcome to all things Optimum! I think you mean "Optimum Car Wax" not "Wash" in question #1? If so, yes, Optimum Car Wax can be a stand alone product. Obviously we recommend Optimum Car Wash, but there are quality alternatives. Most, but not all products can be interchanged with good results. We recommend the Optimum Synergy because we KNOW all our products are formulated to work together.
  15. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    I think I got some high spots

    Jasol, welcome to the Optimum Forum! I'm guessing you're right about the heat - high heat causes Coatings to flash and cure much faster. There are several possible solutions - an easy one is to add another layer of Gloss-Coat to even high spots. Another is to try a cleaner wax lightly by hand to see if you can reduce them. Since you can layer Gloss-Coat, it shouldn't be necessary to polish an entire panel. EVERYTHING is more visible on black! As you've found, light is not an absolute solution - things become visible in various lighting scenarios - sometimes twilight shows imperfections better than a spotlight. The best recommendation I can make is to do very small sections until you get a sense of how fast the Coat is flashing - you will save time in the long run
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    NEW OPTIMUM PRODUCTS - 2017 SEMA

    As stated in the SEMA broadcast, the Big Gold Sponge does not replace the BRS, but adds a softer, more dense version that coordinates with the Opti-Coat line of products. The bedliner has been reformulated into a single phase application to simplify the process. Optimum is always reviewing products to improve or increase ease of use. Toddj, thanks for the video links -
  17. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    NEW OPTIMUM PRODUCTS - 2017 SEMA

    SEMA is always an opportunity to present/announce new products. New for 2017 SEMA are: Optimum Clay Towel - redesigned for greater suppleness and durability Optimum Clay Mitt - greater convenience with a mesh backing and gentle clay action Opti-Coat Big Gold Sponge - softer and more dense construction Optimum Compound ll - greater correction (up to 1500), improved finishing Optimum Poli-Seal - improved durability and water repel, easier wipe off, more environmentally friendly, reduced product separation Optimum Rotary Wool Pads (6" and 8") - interface backing, improved cooling, fewer pressure spots, smoother action Optimum Ultimate Bedliner - revised into a 1 step application
  18. 1 point
    boiler

    Opti-Glass

    Zerix, at this time there's no plan to change the formula on the retail version of Opti-Glass.
  19. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opt Powerclean Rinseless on Tires?

    we recommend rinsing Power Clean when used on glass, paint, plastic, etc. It does not need to be rinsed from tires and Tire Shine/Opti-Bond can be applied over it on rubber.
  20. 1 point
    I think you'll be fine with the 5" Griots and 3" Meguiars plates.
  21. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Decon wash

    I frequently go back to old "Guz" responses to confirm advice...
  22. 1 point
    AKT

    NRWW and OCW

    That's the plan! Like giving a back rub to a newborn baby.
  23. 1 point
    The Guz

    2010 Camaro Coated with Gloss Coat

    When I first used it I was like it is so so. But after extended use I have to say it has become my favorite interior protectant. Leaves a great finish and as you stated very durable. Also does not attract much dust compared to other products. I just bought more.
  24. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    I've never heard of someone coating floor mats but I don't think there would be any issues. I'd agree with A&J/Guz that it's an expensive and somewhat short range solution. Something like Protection Plus would seem a better choice.
  25. 1 point
    Kiddetailer

    Official Curing Time Chart?

    I know this forum and many other places throughout the web have spoken about proper Curing times for the various protection products from Optimum. I was hoping for a sticky thread where it will state proper curing times like for Gloss Coat, Opti Seal, Optimum Car Wax, Opti Lens, Opti Glass etc. For Gloss Coat I know that it can touch water in 1 hour, can be wash after 7 days with car soap, and no chemicals touching the gloss coat until at least 30 days. What about things like opti seal after gloss coat to protect it after application? I read many of Gus's posts where he says put opti seal 1 hour after gloss coat has been applied. Is this the official word from optimum? Or how long after Opti seal can Optimum Car Wax be applied?
  26. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimized My New Ride

    very nice indeed...and one of my favorite cars!
  27. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Paint protection

    Lowe is correct, GPS is a very light polish (as stated) and particularly by hand, but it's also a cleaner and sealant and does those tasks well on glass.
  28. 1 point
    The 32oz. bottle should be the concentrate. It dilutes 1:3. The 17oz bottle is the ready to use version.
  29. 1 point
    Habs

    OCW durability issues

    Great info After I apply my opti gloss ( if it ever warms up in my garage) I am going to use ocw with every wash witch is once a week and see how it looks . Dan
  30. 1 point
    A&J

    How do you prime the pad with Hyper-Polish?

    I start with 2 sprays on the pad, tap tap tap on the surface sized about 40 x 40 cm, speed 2 to cover the polish on the surface and that primes it. I then use speed 3-4 on my DA to polish. The problem with Hyper polish is that you have to clean the pad often...If you keep spraying the polish and dont clean it every now and then the pad gets overloaded with polish and especially lubricants and the polish doesnt cut as much. Ive just polished a car during the weekend using Intensive polish and Hyper polish and really the best result was after I cleaned the pads. The overloaded pad still cut but left some swirls behind so I had to do another 1-2 passes which is extra work. If you have a pad washer use that to clean the pad, if you dont spray on pure Power clean or mixed 3:1 and massage the polish out of the pad under running water. Put the pad on the machine, set to speed 3, put it into a bucket you are not using and turn it on, start with speed 3 then move to speed 6 and back to speed 3. The centrifugal force will remove most water leaving behind a damp pad ready for 1-2 sprays of Hyper polish or some other polish. I hope it helps!
  31. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    The Optimum Forum will be offline at 9 PM Central on Friday, February 17, until completed. An updated Forum layout will be introduced, similar to optimumcarcare.com and will be a modern, user friendly site.
  32. 1 point
    A&J

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    Thanks for the explanation ...must admit I havent noticed the My Activity Streams till now (will have a bit of a play once I get some more free time). It should prove usefull once I get the hang of it. Blue color is darker and more noticible IMO. Thanks I did start to use the "unread content" button now that the "whats new" button is gone. Great that you could increase the font for my friend Lowejackson here...he is old and he got no money for new glasses Is there a chance to implement the OPT synergy podcast somewhere here on the forum?
  33. 1 point
    IPS-Lindy

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    Great feedback, thanks guys. As Ron noted, I'm a gearhead and have been an avid user of OPT products for years, so I'm happy to offer some help where I can. This is definitely a huge change, but please give it a chance... I think you'll come to love it (I may have an ever so slight bias. :)) If you click "unread content" and then click the condensed tab on the right side, I think you'll find this more to your liking. Activity streams are very powerful. You can use the pre-defined streams by clicking Activity -> My Activity Streams (as as a point of interest, if there's something specific you're looking for, we can create a custom stream on your behalf. Further, you can create your own custom stream here - select your options, save it and it will show in the aforementioned list. In fact, you can set that as your default stream so anytime you click activity, it automatically goes there. For example, you can create a stream to read all OPT employee responses in one central location. You can create one to only show you certain forums such as ONR. You can have a stream that shows you all topics you've participated in, also filtered by various factors. Once you get streams setup the way you like, it's really difficult to go back to the old "view new content" found on other forums. Our designers made a couple of changes over the weekend. Do you find it easier to read now? Please see above. You can simply default to "unread content" and adjust the filters on the top of the page, or create your own streams to display exactly how you'd like. Those should have carried over. I'll get a tech to take a look. That would be nice! I hesitate to call them participation trophies, but essentially, they do in fact recognize participation in a community. In the next major release of our software due in a few months, those can be tied to actions. For example, OPT could have a VIP forum exclusive to active contributors and create an action that would handle promotion of that automatically. They could also be used for contests, as noted. I increased the size of post content slightly - hopefully that helps.
  34. 1 point
    The Guz

    Amazing Carpet Cleaner

    Unfortunately I don't have access to either of those. One of those is next on the list to get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  35. 1 point
    A&J

    Using ONR in the winter on a very salty car

    That really is a great presentation guide. Unless there is mud or heavy dirt&grime present rinseless will clean perfectly fine. If in doubt PW rinse the car first or spray on APC mixed 1:15 or 1:20, wait a few min and PW rinse it off. After that wash normally with ONR.
  36. 1 point
    You have missed a trick here, you could have released the iRon, the perfect product for domestic detailing with the associated iRon Board. The perfect gift for anyone called Ron
  37. 1 point
    Car is still looking great
  38. 1 point
    The Guz

    2015 Impala LTZ Coated with Gloss Coat

    5 month update. Decided to give the car a decon wash. I messaged Dann Williams of optimum on how he does a decon wash. So he gave me some pointers. So thanks to him. For those that are interested in his decon wash process it is ferrex, wash, fine grade clay with optimum car wax. First thing was spraying down the paint with optimum ferrex. I sprayed it onto the paint dry to not dilute the product. This was the first time I used ferrex as I have been using ironx for the longest time. Ferrex has been stated to also remove tar based on it being discussed on the optimum synergy podcast. No way for me to test that as the car had no tar. Ferrex doing it's thing While I was at it, I performed a little test on the hood. I applied ferrex on the passenger side of the hood and the remaining ironx I had on the drivers side. Close up of the ferrex side Close up of the ironx side. Don't mind the red needles. They are from the trees on the street. The wind has been blowing them around. Both iron removers work. I felt ferrex performed a little better. Can't go wrong with either product. I did not take too many photos but I also mixed 2 ounces of Meguiar's D103 APC+ into my car wash solution (both in the foam gun and bucket) of optimum car wash to aid in removing the heavier built up road film. The sheeting of gloss coat is doing very well. The glass has a base layer of opti-glass coating that has been maintained monthly with opti-glass clean & protect. These are the products I used. Stuck with some synergy. Final shots after drying the car with the DP car dryer and a final wipe with optimum instant detailer. So within this 5 month time frame, the paint had developed contaminants. The car sits outside 24/7 so that is expected. It was not a lot as the car was not bleeding from using the iron removers. Ferrex performed well and removed a majority of the contaminants where I did not decide to clay. Paint felt smooth with my hand before I used the detail spray. Routine decon washes will work just as well until I decide to clay it. By the way gloss coat can be clayed with a fine grade mitt and optimum car wax. I will mention that within the 5 months, the car has been washed with ONR weekly. I did use carpro reset about 2-3 weeks ago just to break up my rinseless wash routine. I did use opti-seal once as a drying aid but I have gone to just using the instant detailer as gloss coat doesn't need any toppers. So far I am happy with gloss coat up to the 5 month mark.
  39. 1 point
    Welcome to the Optimum Forum. Either sponge will work for ONR washes - the Big Red Sponge is larger and has cuts that allow more maneuvering around trim and crevices, plus holds more wash solution. The blue sponge is a large traditional type and works well for general maintenance.
  40. 1 point
    You can use Opti-Bond for exterior plastic, I do regularly. Dr G recommends Protectant Plus as the better exterior/interior plastic product, due to it's UV protection. I think Opti-Bond is a little greasy (gelly?) for interiors, might be a dust magnet.
  41. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    2015 Honda Civic coated with Gloss coat

    Nice work A&J
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Opti-Seal Q&A

    You're using too much product. An iPad is a pretty small area for one spray of product. With all due respect, this product has been around since 2007, and if it wasn't a "true WOWA" you wouldn't have been the first one to figure that out. There is a small learning curve to this product, i.e. how much to use, how far to spread, in order for it to behave in the expected fashion. And it's pretty simple, you just need to get the product spread out thin enough to be able to "walk away". If you are using too much product for the surface area you have, you will be unable to get it spread to the required "thinness", and then it will leave residue as you are experiencing. There's a few (tens of thousands) of us who have been able apply this product without incident; you simply need to adjust your technique. Maybe try it on your car?
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Power clean on leather

    I use it about 5:1 (sometimes higher diluation) followed by wiping with a damp MF cloth. Chris Thomas has suggested paying extra attention to the seams to make sure the OPC is also removed from these areas. I am sure Mr Thomas has also said you can use the Optimum dressing instead of a damp cloth. Just in case this all sounds a bit complated, it is not. I spray the OPC onto a cloth, work one section and then wipe with a damp cloth.
  46. 1 point
    donahuerw

    Bee Crap or Poop

    From the album Bee Crap

  47. 1 point
    ponypower 5.0

    OCW On New Paint??

    I'm not chemist by any means but here are some thoughts: What did the shop say about cure time for the repaint? Is the work covered by a warranty? Optimum Car Wax is water based but once it dries/cures, it is no longer water-soluble, otherwise, it would wash right off. A product being water based does not neccessarily indicate that it "breathes". The whole point of paint protection is to seal it from the elements. Perhaps the paint will still cure with OCW applied but to be safe, and avoid violating any warranty issues, your paint should be just fine withought protection during the time the body shop recommends for paint cure time. Did a body shop or a Ford dealer do the paint work? I would think Ford would only make recommendations regarding factory applied paint since it is catalyzed and cures due to a chemical reaction and it cures before it leaves the factory. I would ask the shop that applied the paint what their recommendation is regarding application of sealants/waxes on their paint, just to be safe, since they know if they used a catalyzed paint or a laquer paint which does need time to outgas..
  48. 1 point
    dnobel

    Which additional pads?

    I am about to buy my first DA polisher (probably the Griots 6) and am planning to purchase Optimum MF pads and the "Hyper Twins" to use with it. I would appreciate advice on which foam pads I should buy to complement the MFs. Based on what I have been reading, I am very interested in the Edge 2000 system but am not sure of which ones to buy or whether Edge is appropriate for a novice. Thanks in advance!
  49. 1 point
    Billy Jack

    Opti-Seal and lacquer paint

    This will by a very wordy question, but I’m hoping a detailed question will help to obtain the best answer. Optimum’s wax / sealant products seem to be geared toward modern clearcoat paints. My question refers to my garage queen, an ’87 El Camino with original single-stage lacquer. Trying to keep it an original “survivor”, I go to great lengths keeping the old paint presentable. My normal spring routine is first a good claying, followed by multiple aggressive rubdowns with the oil-rich Meguiars #7. Next is a light machine polish, usually with another oil rich Meguiar’s polish, either #3 Machine Glaze or the more aggressive #80 Speed Glaze. Final steps are then a sealant and wax. My current favorite sealant is Meguiar’s NXT since not only does it not diminish the gloss level, it does not streak on my sensitive dark burgundy paint. Many other waxes and sealants I’ve tried have streaked and /or diminished the gloss I’ve worked so hard to obtain. I’m very intrigued to try Opti-Seal as a base sealant, then OCW as a maintenance wax throughout the year, in the hope of being able to go the entire spring and summer cruise / show season with only minimal maintenance. As it is now, my spring routine has to be repeated in mid-summer, even though my Camino is a strictly a sunny day driver. Opinions or experiences, anyone? Do the Optimum products work as well on older lacquer finishes as they appear to on modern clearcoats? Is there any potential conflict with Opti-Seal and the oils in the Meguiar’s Polishes or glazes? Does Opti-Seal have any tendency to streak on older, softer paints? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Bill
  50. 1 point
    Ron Harris

    Wet Sanding Basics.

    This is just a basic example of wet sanding procedures.If you have never attempted this before I recomend you find a scrape panel to practice with. What you need A large sponge A 5 gal bucket Foam sanding block. 2000 grit sanding paper. A squeegee. Our victim Porsche Carrera. The right rear quarter was repainted as was the door and right front fender. Ok. What you want to do first is fill a 5 gal bucket with water and start soaking your paper. I don't add soap.Why? I think that the lubricity masks the sound that dirt makes when between the paper and paint. I think it makes the paper cut deeper. Soak for 30min while you wash the car. I use 2000 grit 3M Imperial paper. I feel that you can remove most imperfections with this paper. Some like to start with 1200 but based on my experience you will just be adding a step that is not necessary. When you start compounding you will have some stray deep scratches that will be hard to remove if you didn't sand enough with a finer grit. Seeing the stray scratches are impossible when there is no gloss. So you could end up removing to much clear or burning the clear trying to compound them out. Is your car clean? If not give it a good washing paying special attention to the nooks and crevices around the area you will be sanding. Dirt trapped in these areas can be flushed out while sanding with the water and come between the paper and paint causing some deep scratches. You can here this happening and you should stop and flush your panel and paper with fresh water to remove the dirt. Lets start sanding. You want to work in a cool well lit area out of the sun. You may be able to see some of the imperfections like dirt or fish eye in the finish of the car but some may be hard to detect but will show up during the compound and polishing step. Orange peel will be obvious and you only should remove enough to match the rest of the car. This takes practice to do. Your first time out don't go for a completely flat finish if your car dose not have one. I start by lightly sanding the panel with my paper wrapped around a foam sanding block. I Call this giving you a guide to the finish. This will high lite all the dirt and orange peel. Squeegee off the water and examen. see example pictures. The circles are showing you dirt in the finish. So now we can see just how much dirt and orange peel in in the finish. Lets start sanding more. Keep the panel wet with water using your sponge. Remember if you here a gritty squeak stop and flush. Work an area stop squeegee and examine. Looking at the next pic we can see that most of the orange peel gone but a big piece of dirt remains. We will need to sand this a little more. When working on curved surfaces you want to remove the block from the paper and use your hand. You never want to sand with your finger tips.try to keep your hand as flat as possible and sand as if you were waving. Sanding with the tips of your fingers will create valleys in theb finish that will look like waves when polished. So now the car is completely sanded Next Compounding