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  1. 3 likes
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    You click on the time under the post (for example it says "9hours ago") and it takes you to that post. Dont forget to like my comment...apparantly the more likes I get the better the change I win OCP or other OPT stuff this month
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    Opti-Seal will not hurt tires, but won't help them either. It is effective on rubber trim - tires are more porous and absorb product.
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    I enjoy washing my own cars and keeping them looking good with the best products. I currently use OCW as my sole wax product and am very happy with the product. I use it after every wash since I don't wash the cars on a regular basis. I am looking for a product to spot clean bugs and small bird and tree droppings on a daily basis for maintenance between my full washes. I have been going back and forth between buying OID and OOC and just can't make a decision. I think both products would have different advantages but these are just based on what I've read online as I have not used either. I am assuming OOC would have more cleaning power than OID which would be great for the purpose of cleaning up the occasional bugs, bird or tree droppings after a drive. One of my questions is would using OOC on a regular basis for spot clean up also remove my OCW protection at the same time? On the other hand, I have been leaning towards buying OID for this spot cleaning purpose. I figure if OID offers enough cleaning power to wash off these type of spots (which should be fairly fresh considering my goal behind this product purchase is to stay on top of this) then I'm wondering if OID could work as my spot cleaner, but also offer me much more protection than OOC? Since I don't always get to do full wash with OCW application very regularly, I like the idea of the product I choose giving me extra protection from the elements as a bridge, and am assuming OID would offer more protection than OOC? But would OID have sufficient cleaning power for the bug/bird/tree spots? One more note, I wouldn't really be using either of these products for their intended use! I like OCW and the added protection and it is so easy I can't see using the OID instead of OCW as my LSP. On the other hand, I am kind of a purist when it comes to a full car wash, so wouldn't be using OOC for its intended waterless wash purpose. I hope this extra info helps, just looking for some expert advice on which product to buy for this spot cleaner purpose?
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    Happy Birthday shout out to Dr. G. !!!!!! Hope you have a great day.
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    When I first used it I was like it is so so. But after extended use I have to say it has become my favorite interior protectant. Leaves a great finish and as you stated very durable. Also does not attract much dust compared to other products. I just bought more.
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    Best explanation available: Yvan Lacroix The new line is designed as a maintenance line for coated cars. These are not simply re-bottled Optimum products, but new formulations that Dr G. has worked on for quite some time to compliment coated cars. Fortunately for the rest of the world they work great on non coated cars as well. They will only be available through the www.opticoat.com website, or directly from Opti-Coat Pro installers. Retailers will not have access to this line of products. We do not have the products in stock in the USA, a preliminary batch was made to ship to our distribution partners world wide, so they could all be launched at once. In the USA we do not have product yet, and the website is going through a redesign to accommodate these new products. Until the website is ready they will not be available here. I can not give you a date at this time.
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    This is an update on how the coating fared. It's been 17 months since I have seen this car. I had my uncle bring it by to do a decon wash to evaluate how gloss coat has been doing. I started off with the wheels and tires and then proceeded to spray Ferrex onto the painted surface. I let that sit for a few minutes. I rinsed it off and saw some unexpected behavior. So I proceeded with a wash. I used CarPro Reset to wash it. As I was done washing this is what I saw. Similar behavior as when I rinsed the surface free of ferrex. No beading or sheeting. Water was laying flat. Primarily on the flat surfaces. The sides were barely clinging on. Rear Quarter Hood Trunk Roof The only area that showed signs of life was the front bumper I dried the car off and then moved it into the garage thinking maybe it just had some built up road grime. On an episode of the optimum synergy podcast dated on 2/21/2017 there is a discussion on how to do a decon wash using Optimum MDR at 3:1 and Power Clean at 3:1 and agitate each step with a dampened towel in ONR. I won't go into too much detail on the steps. After this is done it is recommended to rinse the surface with water. I even did the so called wash, clay, wax method using optimum car wax and a fine grade clay towel on one area of the hood. I did the baggie test and there was not very much contaminants on the paint. I said lets give it another wash with Reset. Well same behavior. Gloss Coat has indeed failed on the above shown surfaces. It was barely clinging onto the sides. The front bumper was the only area that had any signs of life. Now this is the newest formula of Gloss Coat which is stated to last 3 years (36 months). Optimum guarantees it for 2 years (24 months). This is quite a disappointment that it did not even make it to 2 years before it failed. I asked my uncle was this taken to a tunnel wash or coin op wash. He said no and that he washes all the cars at home with Meguiar's Deep Crystal car shampoo. The weather here in Southern California has been dry for the most part. Other than December 2016 into around February/March 2017 time frame where it did rain more than usual. It is possible that Gloss Coat did not bond well as CarPro Eraser was used since Optimum Paint Prep was not out at the time. Anyway I could not let it leave with lack luster protection. I cleaned up the interior and protected it with GTechniq C6 Matte Dash Cleaned all the glass with McKee's 37 20/20. The back window had some nasty crud on it and turned my applicator brown. 20/20 is good stuff. Treated the trim Polished up the stainless steel tips Meghan of Autogeek sent me this tire gel to review. I went ahead and used it to get my thoughts ready for a review on the Autogeek forum. 1 coat in full sun on the rear tire. I did not buff it. It dried to the touch in about 20 mins. 1 coat on the front tire in full sun For protection I went ahead and just used opti-seal for the fact it is quick to use. I let it sit for an hour before I wiped it down with optimum instant gloss detailer. Recap, Gloss Coat has failed at the 17 month mark which is a little disappointing given that optimum guarantees it to last 2 years. Doesn't really give me confidence on how it will hold up on my dad's car that also has gloss coat. I hope it lasts longer than this. I told my uncle if he wants me to polish it later on I will do so. The paint is swirled out. My cousin is the owner of it so he has been taking over the maintenance of it in terms of washing the car at home. I came to the conclusion of not re-coating this car. If I ever work on it again it will either be a one step cleaner wax type product or a one step polish and seal. This will be the last update to this thread with regards to gloss coat.
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    Sounds like some MDR is exactly what you want.
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    I got contacted to detail and protect a brand new BMW M1 series in estoril blue. The costumer and I set up a date that happened to be this weekend. Like mentioned the car was brand spanking new so when it arrived it looked great which was good for me as I didnt have much to do. The car upon arival The car was fairly clean for a 2 day old...the wheels had some brake dust acumulated and there was some bug splatter in front Upon inspection I diddnt find any major damage, just some light swirls that will be removed with polishing. They were most visible on the back lights. I went with the Mike Phillips aggresive wash technique. So I started with the chemical decon procedure. I used a local iron remover product called Carshinefactory Iron off. Snow foamed and washed usind OPT car wash Foamed again and clayed the paint using a clay mitt. I pulled the car into the garage to dry it and to polish it using OPT Hyper polish and LC orange pad on a DA. 1-2 passes were enough to remove light swirls. I polished the entire car in about 2h (very fast yes I know). I used OPT paint prep to remove polishing oils. Gloss coat was applied to the majority of the car... ...The majority because I ran out of it and had to use Gyeon Cancoat for the back boot and bumper. One coat of Gloss coat and 3 coats of Cancoat on the back 1h apart and left it in the garage over night. The next morning I applied Carpro Reload to help the coating cure for the next couple of weeks. Fk1000p on the exhaust Gtechiq C2 on the wheels and TAC system tyre dressing on the tyres The interior was vacuumed and the plastics wiped with OPT opti-clean. The door shuts were polished with OPT poli-seal. The engine bay was wiped with APC and plastics protected with Wolfs chemicals plasic & trim coat. End results Money shot picture Thats it. Thanks for watching.
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    yes, Paint Prep will remove the sealant in Poli-Seal.
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    Some great observations and recommendations. All coatings take on the characteristics of the substances that are on them and usually (if application was done properly as yours sounded), lack of performance can be tracked back to that. I haven't tried Essence Plus but would take Guz's word for it. There are so many choices on all car care products and it's impossible to determine all possible effects when combined. That's one reason Optimum sincerely recommends using their products for the synergy and not only to increase sales...
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    First, there have been no recent reformulations of No Rinse or Opti-Clean. Second, Dr G does incorporate small tweaks without announcement, but they are minor and infrequent. New Formula stickers are generic and if dated would create confusion, opportunity for error when labeling, and probably accusations Optimum was using that to generate sales (desire for the latest formula/freshest product). Optimum does not date labels because the expense would be prohibitive and would create issues in our warehouse and with our distributors (and there are many, in the US and internationally). The product A&J received was probably not rotated properly, but ONR and OC have no pull dates and last forever, so there should be zero performance issues (I have a gallon of ONRWW that's 4+ years old and I used it yesterday).
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    So far the Memphis training and regional clinics around the US have been Pro oriented - Coatings, polishes, film, etc. With 2 Regional Managers and 1 Film expert, Optimum lacks the manpower to expand training now. As the brand grows, and it is, Dr G will look at doing more extensive training.
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    I use slightly higher dilution ratio but fully support the idea of a single spray per panel is normally enough. If you get streaking it is normally due to using too much product
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    Whaddya tawkin...they're eye-wateringly expensive here in the US!
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    With summer upon us, it's hard to wash and dry before water spots begin to appear. I like to use OCW as a drying aid. It occurred to me that a little cleaning power to go along with OCW would be a welcome addition. I mixed 1teaspoon of Opticlean concentrate with 3ounces of OCW and, wow, it got rid of any spotting I came across and even removed a grease spot I missed during the wash. Optimum Car Cleaner Wax, anyone?
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    I've never had that particular issue and have 2 thoughts - how dirty is the car and are you thoroughly squeezing the BRS (or using a grit guard)? My cars don't get really dirty to test that aspect of the sponge. The BRS tends to collect dirt/grime in it's cuts and it may be you're depositing some back or just not collecting it all. Hopefully someone else will chime in...?
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    Adding Gloss Coat should add the protection you are looking for to the painted panels. We recommend wiping the surfaces with Paint Prep to remove any wax residue before applying Gloss Coat. Let us know if we can be of further assistance. Thank you.
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    Remember to be gentle, like with a woman. No hard rubbing with these chicks...I mean cars and ONR!
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    This is me getting results from Intensive polish on Flexipad wool pad and Hyper polish on CG white hex logic pad using a DA. 2-3 section passes of each polish left me with these results.
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    I usually do this too if I cant hand wash it afterwards. This January was way too cold for any hand washing but I did visit a self service coin-op. I sprayed a Citrus based APC mixed 1:15 on the car, waited a few min and PW rinsed it off. The car was like night and day. Most of the salt and muck was removed which I was satisfied with at the moment. Your way of doing it sounds as good as any. As long as it works for you.
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    Unfortunately I don't have access to either of those. One of those is next on the list to get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    this is actually their new aggressive clay product.
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    You don't need to tape anything, Gloss-Coat will have no effect on rubber. It works on everything else - plastic, metal, glass, and clear coat.
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    You have missed a trick here, you could have released the iRon, the perfect product for domestic detailing with the associated iRon Board. The perfect gift for anyone called Ron
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    I corrected this one during the 4th of July week. This is my dad's new car. It replaced his 2002 Camaro Z28 that was stolen a few months ago. The Impala was a former Enterprise rental car. It was purchased through Enterprise car sales. It has 30K miles on it. The interior is in very good shape. The exterior has minor scratches and chips from it's abuse as a former rental car. The color is champagne silver metallic. A one step polish was performed using a non optimum polishing compound on my Rupes tools (LHR15 Mark II, Mini Nano). Started off by decontaminating the paint I followed that up by using an aggressive wash method that is described by Mike Phillips using Optimum Car Wash in my foam gun. Once it is clean, I foamed up the car and clayed it using a clay mitt and the foam shampoo as clay lube. That exposed the true condition of the paint. 50/50 before After Once the paint was corrected, it was prepped with Optimum Paint Prep. The car was coated with 2 coats of gloss coat and 1 coat of opti-seal. The end result is a very glossy finish. All chrome was polished to remove all water spots. It was also coated with gloss coat. The headlights were lightly polished and coated with opti-lens. Same process was done on the taillights. No more paint defects The glass was clayed and coated with opti-glass. Days later it was cleaned with opti-glass clean & protect The trim was also restored. It was restored with solution finish. I know optimum doesn't recommend applying it over another product. I applied it to get better hydrophobic properties and to get longer lasting protection. I waited a few days prior to coating the trim. I also wiped it down really good prior to coating it. Before After In daylight Same process on the lower rear bumper trim. The interior had been cleaned a couple weeks prior to all it received was a vacuum and a wiprdown of all surfaces Wheels and tires coated with non optimum products Dad was ecstatic at the end result. He is good to go for quite sometime. I will be maintaining it with ONR and possibly opti-seal if I get bored A dramatic turnaround for a former rental car. Comments are welcomed.
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    The Guz, as usual, is correct. Additional coats (after 1 hour) will ensure compete coverage and increase gloss, they do not add durability. Opti-Seal is another way to accomplish the same protection.
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    Welcome to the Optimum Forum. Either sponge will work for ONR washes - the Big Red Sponge is larger and has cuts that allow more maneuvering around trim and crevices, plus holds more wash solution. The blue sponge is a large traditional type and works well for general maintenance.
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    Opti-Seal works fine with this combo. Gloss Coat works even better over solution finish. For tires on my personal cars right now I am a big fan of McKee's 37 tire coating. Opti-Bond is good as well. The difference is of course longevity. Maybe next year we will get an optimum tire coating available to the public.
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    Seal, Wax, or Instant Detailer would all protect against oxidation (rust) and do not contain silicone.
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    You can use Opti-Bond for exterior plastic, I do regularly. Dr G recommends Protectant Plus as the better exterior/interior plastic product, due to it's UV protection. I think Opti-Bond is a little greasy (gelly?) for interiors, might be a dust magnet.
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    No not like OOS...its more watery.
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    Lowe, the UK doesn't have our fixation trucks, but the bedliner is aftermarket protection for the bed, can be a spray or thick vinyl. Optimum tested it on warehouse equipment (forklifts, etc) to check effectiveness and durability with great success. No reason it wouldn't work on your underside. The Optimum Spray Bedliner has the following advantages for the consumer: UV stable, impact resistant, non slip surface, very hard to scratch or cut, thinner than it's competition, doesn't add too much weight to the truck. Also easy to repair if it should get damaged. For the installers, low equipment costs ($60 for the gun vs $15,000 for the mixing systems required by many others) easy and quick to apply, water based. Very easy to apply and no spray mist or what so ever which you will have with a normal paint job. The gun can easily be rinsed with water afterwards and it's ready for the next application,
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    Welcome to the Optimum Forum - there are a lot of experts here! We don't recommend applying in temps below 40 and the flash/ cure time will be longer in cold, dry conditions. Yes, you can apply Opti-Seal an hour after Coating for temporary protection while Gloss-Coat finishes curing.
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    My 3 year old and 3 month sons keep me quite busy these days. I'm still searching for perfect pads to use with my DA polisher and hyper polish. Maybe Ill give Lace country CCS pads a go some day.
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    Since we're in Memphis and freezing isn't an issue, I checked with Yvan LaCroix (Canada) who said he's never had an issue with it. Dr G states the only Optimum products where freezing could effect performance are: Opti-Bond Tire Gel Optimum Tire Shine Optimum Compound Optimum Polish Poli-Seal
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    A friend of mine bought this beautiful grey-ish 2015 Honda Civic. He asked me to detail and protect it, so I did it with a smile on my face. We were planing this for a few weeks, just enough time for me to buy some stuff and get ready. The car being 14 months old was if fairly good condition with only some light swirls and a few light RIDS (nothing major). Light swirls on black paint (common wash and dry damage) Bird drop etchings More swirls My friend did however notify me on a few spots that were of concern to him. I believe they were chemical etchings but I'm not sure. They were located on the spoiler and did damage the black gloss paint. I had two days to get the job done so I started right away. The process was: Wheels, arches and tyres: - cleaned with Meguairs Super degreaser - Iron removed with Carshinefactory Iron off - Hand polished with Serious performance paint cleanser - Sealed with Serious performance nano sealant - Tires dressed with Serious performance tire & trim dressing Engine bay, outside plastics and rubber seals - cleaned with Carshinefactory citrus APC - protected with Wolfs chemicals blackout Paint: - cleaned with ONR - De-tared with Carshinefactory glue&tar remover - De-ironed with Carshinefactory iron off - clayed with clay towel and ONR - polished with Optimum hyper polish + white hex logic pad for the most part and orange for some RIDS (also used a bit of Meguiars ultimate compound) - wet sanded those chemical etches with 2500 and 3000 grit and polished - polished with AF Tripple on some hand only reachable places and protected with Infinity wax dark Protection: - paint wiped with Optimum paint prep - a coat of Optimum gloss coat - after 1h a coat of Optimum Opti-seal to give the coating time to cure and protect it in the meantime Interior: - vaccumed - all plastics wiped with ONR or Carshinefactory A to Z - plastics protected with Carshinefactory dressing milk Glass: - cleaned with ONR - polished with Poorboy's professional polish - sealed with Angelwax h2go and final results Thanks for watching
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    One week in and no surprise, both Glass Clean & Protect and Opti-Seal are still on the job, beading water.
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    I'm due to wash a vehicle this week and will take on the challenge - 1/2 rear window treated with Opti-Seal, 1/2 with Glass Cleaner & Protectant...
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    I use it about 5:1 (sometimes higher diluation) followed by wiping with a damp MF cloth. Chris Thomas has suggested paying extra attention to the seams to make sure the OPC is also removed from these areas. I am sure Mr Thomas has also said you can use the Optimum dressing instead of a damp cloth. Just in case this all sounds a bit complated, it is not. I spray the OPC onto a cloth, work one section and then wipe with a damp cloth.
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    I'm preparing to start my part time week-end detailing business using many of the Optimum products and I have several questions regarding some of the more expensive equipment purchases I'll need to make. 1. If I'm NOT planning on using a hose for free flowing water what portable systems would be suggested that would give me some pressure spraying for rinsing the wheels/tires or the engine bay or some major mud/dirt on the paint? There are several portable battery operated sprayers on the market. (Mytee Boss, Chemical Guys sprayer, Nomad, etc) 2. If using chemicals that are environmentally friendly is it necessary to have a water containment matt in order to be fully compliant? 3. What canopies are easy to set up for one operator? What sizes? 10x15, 10x20, Best places to purchase from? 4. Suggested hot water extractors and steam machines? If I can only afford one to start with would it be better to start with an extractor or a steam machine? 5. This is not just for mobile use but what would be a high quality paint thickness gage that would be accurate down to 3 mil? That's all I can think of for now. If there are any other suggestions for a mobile set up I'd greatly appreciate any help!
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    VERY NICE. Lexus pearl looks gorgeous when correct and coated. i wish that car came with a high performance engine! it could be quite a hot hatch.
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    I have been using ONR and also researching the benefits of hot water with washing. I am wondering if you can confirm the Cloud Point for ONR that will provide optimal cleaning results, please. many thanks
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    Hi Dr. G- I know you did work for PPG in the past. I am curious as to what your opinion is on waxing/sealing fresh paint and why. Thanks for your reply.
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    This is just a basic example of wet sanding procedures.If you have never attempted this before I recomend you find a scrape panel to practice with. What you need A large sponge A 5 gal bucket Foam sanding block. 2000 grit sanding paper. A squeegee. Our victim Porsche Carrera. The right rear quarter was repainted as was the door and right front fender. Ok. What you want to do first is fill a 5 gal bucket with water and start soaking your paper. I don't add soap.Why? I think that the lubricity masks the sound that dirt makes when between the paper and paint. I think it makes the paper cut deeper. Soak for 30min while you wash the car. I use 2000 grit 3M Imperial paper. I feel that you can remove most imperfections with this paper. Some like to start with 1200 but based on my experience you will just be adding a step that is not necessary. When you start compounding you will have some stray deep scratches that will be hard to remove if you didn't sand enough with a finer grit. Seeing the stray scratches are impossible when there is no gloss. So you could end up removing to much clear or burning the clear trying to compound them out. Is your car clean? If not give it a good washing paying special attention to the nooks and crevices around the area you will be sanding. Dirt trapped in these areas can be flushed out while sanding with the water and come between the paper and paint causing some deep scratches. You can here this happening and you should stop and flush your panel and paper with fresh water to remove the dirt. Lets start sanding. You want to work in a cool well lit area out of the sun. You may be able to see some of the imperfections like dirt or fish eye in the finish of the car but some may be hard to detect but will show up during the compound and polishing step. Orange peel will be obvious and you only should remove enough to match the rest of the car. This takes practice to do. Your first time out don't go for a completely flat finish if your car dose not have one. I start by lightly sanding the panel with my paper wrapped around a foam sanding block. I Call this giving you a guide to the finish. This will high lite all the dirt and orange peel. Squeegee off the water and examen. see example pictures. The circles are showing you dirt in the finish. So now we can see just how much dirt and orange peel in in the finish. Lets start sanding more. Keep the panel wet with water using your sponge. Remember if you here a gritty squeak stop and flush. Work an area stop squeegee and examine. Looking at the next pic we can see that most of the orange peel gone but a big piece of dirt remains. We will need to sand this a little more. When working on curved surfaces you want to remove the block from the paper and use your hand. You never want to sand with your finger tips.try to keep your hand as flat as possible and sand as if you were waving. Sanding with the tips of your fingers will create valleys in theb finish that will look like waves when polished. So now the car is completely sanded Next Compounding