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Showing most liked content since 12/17/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    bird-keeper

    IMG 20161016 160808815 HDR

    From the album 91 GTA

  2. 2 points
    A&J

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    You click on the time under the post (for example it says "9hours ago") and it takes you to that post. Dont forget to like my comment...apparantly the more likes I get the better the change I win OCP or other OPT stuff this month
  3. 2 points
    Paul S

    Happy Birthday !

    Happy Birthday shout out to Dr. G. !!!!!! Hope you have a great day.
  4. 1 point
    Tempest45

    Interior cleaning.

    Opticlean is my favorite as an interior detailer.
  5. 1 point
    Ron Harris

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Optimum Gloss-Coat™ is the most advanced polymer system that forms a layer of clear coat over automotive finishes. Optimum Gloss-Coat™ provides better scratch and mar resistance, better UV resistance, better chemical etch resistance, and has better release properties than any other consumer product while providing unsurpassed gloss and slickness. Additionally, you can top Optimum Gloss-Coat™ with any non-abrasive wax or sealant of your choice to add additional gloss and slickenss. Optimum Gloss-Coat™ can be used to protect the following surfaces: • painted surfaces • wheels • plastic trim • bumpers • aluminum & chrome surfaces Since Optimum Gloss-Coat™ bonds to surfaces it is applied to, any paint imperfections must be removed with Optimum Polish II or Optimum Hyper Polish before application. Also all waxes and oils must be removed from the surfaces for proper bonding. Directions: 1. Polish paint with Optimum Polish II or Optimum Hyper Polish to remove any defects. 2. Clean surface with 15% IPA solution to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicones. 3. Prime the applicator by making an X pattern across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel. 4. Wipe Optimum Gloss-Coat™ onto a single panel at a time in a thin layer using two directions, in a circular or front to back direction. 5. Within 5 minutes, inspect the panel with adequate lighting looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear. 6. Use foam applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out any areas where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be polished if allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self-leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results. 7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired. Not recommended for glass.
  6. 1 point
    boiler

    Opti-Glass

    Zerix, at this time there's no plan to change the formula on the retail version of Opti-Glass.
  7. 1 point
    A&J

    Optimum Opti Seal over wax?

    Easyest way is to open a Imgur account...upload pics there and copy pic url to any forum you want.
  8. 1 point
    Hard to argue with that gloss!
  9. 1 point
    To test for Opti-Coat Pro, make sure your truck is clean (preferably decontaminated) and if water beads you're still protected. No Rinse and No Rinse Wash & Wax have similar cleaning capability, so the only difference is the carnauba wax for extra protection. Either product can be safely used weekly. The option to wax or seal is your choice, but neither will be durable on OCP. It is not necessary to re-coat the entire vehicle if damaged.
  10. 1 point
    Habs

    Opti-Coat Application Methods

    Hi I just gloss coated my car in three phases bumper then hood then the rest of car ( had the car in parts in my garage during winter) I put in on thick thin and double coated some of it Never had any problems with high spots i think the method is use the paint prep get the paint as clean as possible ( polish glay) and the right tempature Do you self a favor and gloss coat the car
  11. 1 point
    I think you'll be fine with the 5" Griots and 3" Meguiars plates.
  12. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    New ONR user, looking for opinions

    I store mine wet, ready to use, but others allow to dry with no problem. Make sure to clean it out periodically (Power Clean or dish detergent work for me), you'd be surprised how much dirt it retains.
  13. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Sticker glue

    I recall people using rubbing alcohol, nail polish remover, hair spray, and vinegar along with retail products like Goof Off.
  14. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Decon wash

    I frequently go back to old "Guz" responses to confirm advice...
  15. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Brand new car headlights

    Opti-Coat will provide protection for headlights but is not as good as Opti-Lens, because Lens is formulated to bond to plastic and has additional UV protection. You would need to polish the lens to remove the manufacturers protection before applying either OCP or OL.
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    MDR diluted 4:1?

    There's not a simple answer here - water spots can be so pesky! Some light water spots can be removed with the 4:1 mixture, others will take 100% MDR. We have found letting the MDR dwell, sometimes as long as 20 minutes, can facilitate the cleaning. Yes, the ratio is 4 parts water to 1 part MDR.
  17. 1 point
    AKT

    NRWW and OCW

    That's the plan! Like giving a back rub to a newborn baby.
  18. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Forum was down a long time?

    Bad timing - Dr G, Shay (Marketing Director), and I were all on vacation and we had a technical glitch (or maybe we got hacked and someone wanted ransom?). It's all good now.
  19. 1 point
    The Guz

    2010 Camaro Coated with Gloss Coat

    When I first used it I was like it is so so. But after extended use I have to say it has become my favorite interior protectant. Leaves a great finish and as you stated very durable. Also does not attract much dust compared to other products. I just bought more.
  20. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Hyper Seal

    Best explanation available: Yvan Lacroix The new line is designed as a maintenance line for coated cars. These are not simply re-bottled Optimum products, but new formulations that Dr G. has worked on for quite some time to compliment coated cars. Fortunately for the rest of the world they work great on non coated cars as well. They will only be available through the www.opticoat.com website, or directly from Opti-Coat Pro installers. Retailers will not have access to this line of products. We do not have the products in stock in the USA, a preliminary batch was made to ship to our distribution partners world wide, so they could all be launched at once. In the USA we do not have product yet, and the website is going through a redesign to accommodate these new products. Until the website is ready they will not be available here. I can not give you a date at this time.
  21. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    I've never heard of someone coating floor mats but I don't think there would be any issues. I'd agree with A&J/Guz that it's an expensive and somewhat short range solution. Something like Protection Plus would seem a better choice.
  22. 1 point
    Kiddetailer

    Official Curing Time Chart?

    I know this forum and many other places throughout the web have spoken about proper Curing times for the various protection products from Optimum. I was hoping for a sticky thread where it will state proper curing times like for Gloss Coat, Opti Seal, Optimum Car Wax, Opti Lens, Opti Glass etc. For Gloss Coat I know that it can touch water in 1 hour, can be wash after 7 days with car soap, and no chemicals touching the gloss coat until at least 30 days. What about things like opti seal after gloss coat to protect it after application? I read many of Gus's posts where he says put opti seal 1 hour after gloss coat has been applied. Is this the official word from optimum? Or how long after Opti seal can Optimum Car Wax be applied?
  23. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    MDR Mineral Deposit Remover

    Sounds like some MDR is exactly what you want.
  24. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimized My New Ride

    very nice indeed...and one of my favorite cars!
  25. 1 point
    A&J

    Optimized My New Ride

    Nice
  26. 1 point
    A&J

    Brand new BMW M1 got Gloss coated

    I got contacted to detail and protect a brand new BMW M1 series in estoril blue. The costumer and I set up a date that happened to be this weekend. Like mentioned the car was brand spanking new so when it arrived it looked great which was good for me as I didnt have much to do. The car upon arival The car was fairly clean for a 2 day old...the wheels had some brake dust acumulated and there was some bug splatter in front Upon inspection I diddnt find any major damage, just some light swirls that will be removed with polishing. They were most visible on the back lights. I went with the Mike Phillips aggresive wash technique. So I started with the chemical decon procedure. I used a local iron remover product called Carshinefactory Iron off. Snow foamed and washed usind OPT car wash Foamed again and clayed the paint using a clay mitt. I pulled the car into the garage to dry it and to polish it using OPT Hyper polish and LC orange pad on a DA. 1-2 passes were enough to remove light swirls. I polished the entire car in about 2h (very fast yes I know). I used OPT paint prep to remove polishing oils. Gloss coat was applied to the majority of the car... ...The majority because I ran out of it and had to use Gyeon Cancoat for the back boot and bumper. One coat of Gloss coat and 3 coats of Cancoat on the back 1h apart and left it in the garage over night. The next morning I applied Carpro Reload to help the coating cure for the next couple of weeks. Fk1000p on the exhaust Gtechiq C2 on the wheels and TAC system tyre dressing on the tyres The interior was vacuumed and the plastics wiped with OPT opti-clean. The door shuts were polished with OPT poli-seal. The engine bay was wiped with APC and plastics protected with Wolfs chemicals plasic & trim coat. End results Money shot picture Thats it. Thanks for watching.
  27. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Poli-seal as a primer for OC 2.0

    yes, Paint Prep will remove the sealant in Poli-Seal.
  28. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Gloss coat fail?

    Some great observations and recommendations. All coatings take on the characteristics of the substances that are on them and usually (if application was done properly as yours sounded), lack of performance can be tracked back to that. I haven't tried Essence Plus but would take Guz's word for it. There are so many choices on all car care products and it's impossible to determine all possible effects when combined. That's one reason Optimum sincerely recommends using their products for the synergy and not only to increase sales...
  29. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    ONR & Opti-clean New formula

    First, there have been no recent reformulations of No Rinse or Opti-Clean. Second, Dr G does incorporate small tweaks without announcement, but they are minor and infrequent. New Formula stickers are generic and if dated would create confusion, opportunity for error when labeling, and probably accusations Optimum was using that to generate sales (desire for the latest formula/freshest product). Optimum does not date labels because the expense would be prohibitive and would create issues in our warehouse and with our distributors (and there are many, in the US and internationally). The product A&J received was probably not rotated properly, but ONR and OC have no pull dates and last forever, so there should be zero performance issues (I have a gallon of ONRWW that's 4+ years old and I used it yesterday).
  30. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    OPT Training

    So far the Memphis training and regional clinics around the US have been Pro oriented - Coatings, polishes, film, etc. With 2 Regional Managers and 1 Film expert, Optimum lacks the manpower to expand training now. As the brand grows, and it is, Dr G will look at doing more extensive training.
  31. 1 point
    I use slightly higher dilution ratio but fully support the idea of a single spray per panel is normally enough. If you get streaking it is normally due to using too much product
  32. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Big Red Sponge

    Whaddya tawkin...they're eye-wateringly expensive here in the US!
  33. 1 point
    The 32oz. bottle should be the concentrate. It dilutes 1:3. The 17oz bottle is the ready to use version.
  34. 1 point
    pootoo12000

    Car cleaner wax

    With summer upon us, it's hard to wash and dry before water spots begin to appear. I like to use OCW as a drying aid. It occurred to me that a little cleaning power to go along with OCW would be a welcome addition. I mixed 1teaspoon of Opticlean concentrate with 3ounces of OCW and, wow, it got rid of any spotting I came across and even removed a grease spot I missed during the wash. Optimum Car Cleaner Wax, anyone?
  35. 1 point
    Habs

    OCW durability issues

    Great info After I apply my opti gloss ( if it ever warms up in my garage) I am going to use ocw with every wash witch is once a week and see how it looks . Dan
  36. 1 point
    Doctor G

    No more waxing

    Adding Gloss Coat should add the protection you are looking for to the painted panels. We recommend wiping the surfaces with Paint Prep to remove any wax residue before applying Gloss Coat. Let us know if we can be of further assistance. Thank you.
  37. 1 point
    A&J

    Optimum Paint Prep substitute?

    Look here buddy http://optimumforums.org/index.php?/topic/61957-optimum-paint-prep/ Chris was the one who originally posted it but we all know what happened to his posts after he left right! Shame really.
  38. 1 point
    No Soap

    Optimum NRS or Optimum OC

    Remember to be gentle, like with a woman. No hard rubbing with these chicks...I mean cars and ONR!
  39. 1 point
    A&J

    Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS)

    This is me getting results from Intensive polish on Flexipad wool pad and Hyper polish on CG white hex logic pad using a DA. 2-3 section passes of each polish left me with these results.
  40. 1 point
    A&J

    Heavy dirt pre-wash product?

    I usually do this too if I cant hand wash it afterwards. This January was way too cold for any hand washing but I did visit a self service coin-op. I sprayed a Citrus based APC mixed 1:15 on the car, waited a few min and PW rinsed it off. The car was like night and day. Most of the salt and muck was removed which I was satisfied with at the moment. Your way of doing it sounds as good as any. As long as it works for you.
  41. 1 point
    The Guz

    Amazing Carpet Cleaner

    Unfortunately I don't have access to either of those. One of those is next on the list to get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    A&J

    Using ONR in the winter on a very salty car

    That really is a great presentation guide. Unless there is mud or heavy dirt&grime present rinseless will clean perfectly fine. If in doubt PW rinse the car first or spray on APC mixed 1:15 or 1:20, wait a few min and PW rinse it off. After that wash normally with ONR.
  43. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Mask off rubber trim for Opti-Gloss?

    You don't need to tape anything, Gloss-Coat will have no effect on rubber. It works on everything else - plastic, metal, glass, and clear coat.
  44. 1 point
    You have missed a trick here, you could have released the iRon, the perfect product for domestic detailing with the associated iRon Board. The perfect gift for anyone called Ron
  45. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Power clean on leather

    I use it about 5:1 (sometimes higher diluation) followed by wiping with a damp MF cloth. Chris Thomas has suggested paying extra attention to the seams to make sure the OPC is also removed from these areas. I am sure Mr Thomas has also said you can use the Optimum dressing instead of a damp cloth. Just in case this all sounds a bit complated, it is not. I spray the OPC onto a cloth, work one section and then wipe with a damp cloth.
  46. 1 point
    ponypower 5.0

    OCW On New Paint??

    I'm not chemist by any means but here are some thoughts: What did the shop say about cure time for the repaint? Is the work covered by a warranty? Optimum Car Wax is water based but once it dries/cures, it is no longer water-soluble, otherwise, it would wash right off. A product being water based does not neccessarily indicate that it "breathes". The whole point of paint protection is to seal it from the elements. Perhaps the paint will still cure with OCW applied but to be safe, and avoid violating any warranty issues, your paint should be just fine withought protection during the time the body shop recommends for paint cure time. Did a body shop or a Ford dealer do the paint work? I would think Ford would only make recommendations regarding factory applied paint since it is catalyzed and cures due to a chemical reaction and it cures before it leaves the factory. I would ask the shop that applied the paint what their recommendation is regarding application of sealants/waxes on their paint, just to be safe, since they know if they used a catalyzed paint or a laquer paint which does need time to outgas..
  47. 1 point
    Here i am about to start compounding behind the rear door: The passenger side was nice and glossy after we both finished, we still had a long ways to go but, it sure looked promising: Now back to our regularly scheduled programing: Small pads are essential for reaching into tight areas, like underneath the emblems on the back hatch: It was starting to get a bit dark but we were still working..our LED light really showed what the paint was looking like, still much work to be done: LED lights, its a love hate relationship...they show EVERYTHING: We finally came to the point of being done with the polishing. Luckily 80% of the roof was glass...no major swirl correction needed there...but it did all have to be opti-coated...and washed. The awesome part about doing an ONR wash after using optimum polishes is that it is suppose to remove all polishing oils that may be left on the paint. The other great part is washing with ONR is pretty easy and much less chance of accidentally leaving water spots from a typical wash...dont wanna Opti-Coat over those. My sis attacked the rims with Opti-Coat while i started on the paint. After she finished, she did the lights and trim and then dressed the tires (carefully, making sure to not get anything on coated rims since the coating was fresh) and wells. After finishing...it was well past dark...about 9 p.m at this point, but even in the garage it looked awesome: No swirls on this paint: Ready to rest in the garage for the rest of the night: The rims, well they looked AWESOME: Sweet reflection: Yes, all was well in the world again: Wait, what the hell is that? What, no no no, thats not how this works...stop it...this is a story with a happy ending...stop Noooooooooooooooo!!!!!!! Good God, wake up...bad dream, must stop the bad dream! Well at least there were no bird droppings: Crap! (Literally!) Well what happened here was, the owners and their family took a couple of trips since we had last seen them...from Az to Nevada...and then to Rocky Point! Yeahhhhh that'll do some damage! It had been exactly a month since we had finished it...and then they brought it back to us for a maintenance wash and THAT was what we were looking at! Talk about re-living a nightmare! Fortunately something was a BIT different this time: Oh yeah, it had been Opti-Coated. Mhm, the beading was awesome, on THAT dirty hood...the water still beaded up and sheeted right off. We haven't even washed it yet, just rinsed! The other awesome part about Opti-Coat, you can hit those bugs with a little APC to loosen them up and then they wash right off...and unlike wax or sealants, the APC won't wear down the Opti-Coat. After washing well, she was back to new again: I forgot to add that we used Opti-Bond on the wheel wells...which has made them extremely easy to clean. Wheels were back to how they should be: I'd say 80% of the brake dust just rinsed off...the other 20% came off with us just spraying a little APC and agitating with a brush.... No, i didn't just take a pic of a trash can...thats the reflection See! Still swirl free after a month: Finally, a full sun beauty shot: Along with a few others: Finished: So there you have it. We've been doing bi-weekly maintenance washes on this ride for the last 4 months or so...and thus far the water beads and sheets just as well as it did after the first wash. Hope you all enjoyed the write up, the pictures and the review on Opti-Coat. Thanks for reading.
  48. 1 point
    Billy Jack

    Opti-Seal and lacquer paint

    This will by a very wordy question, but I’m hoping a detailed question will help to obtain the best answer. Optimum’s wax / sealant products seem to be geared toward modern clearcoat paints. My question refers to my garage queen, an ’87 El Camino with original single-stage lacquer. Trying to keep it an original “survivor”, I go to great lengths keeping the old paint presentable. My normal spring routine is first a good claying, followed by multiple aggressive rubdowns with the oil-rich Meguiars #7. Next is a light machine polish, usually with another oil rich Meguiar’s polish, either #3 Machine Glaze or the more aggressive #80 Speed Glaze. Final steps are then a sealant and wax. My current favorite sealant is Meguiar’s NXT since not only does it not diminish the gloss level, it does not streak on my sensitive dark burgundy paint. Many other waxes and sealants I’ve tried have streaked and /or diminished the gloss I’ve worked so hard to obtain. I’m very intrigued to try Opti-Seal as a base sealant, then OCW as a maintenance wax throughout the year, in the hope of being able to go the entire spring and summer cruise / show season with only minimal maintenance. As it is now, my spring routine has to be repeated in mid-summer, even though my Camino is a strictly a sunny day driver. Opinions or experiences, anyone? Do the Optimum products work as well on older lacquer finishes as they appear to on modern clearcoats? Is there any potential conflict with Opti-Seal and the oils in the Meguiar’s Polishes or glazes? Does Opti-Seal have any tendency to streak on older, softer paints? Thanks in advance for any assistance. Bill
  49. 1 point
    Brad Will

    Wax/Sealant no Fresh Paint

    Hi Dr. G- I know you did work for PPG in the past. I am curious as to what your opinion is on waxing/sealing fresh paint and why. Thanks for your reply.
  50. 1 point
    Ron Harris

    Wet Sanding Basics.

    This is just a basic example of wet sanding procedures.If you have never attempted this before I recomend you find a scrape panel to practice with. What you need A large sponge A 5 gal bucket Foam sanding block. 2000 grit sanding paper. A squeegee. Our victim Porsche Carrera. The right rear quarter was repainted as was the door and right front fender. Ok. What you want to do first is fill a 5 gal bucket with water and start soaking your paper. I don't add soap.Why? I think that the lubricity masks the sound that dirt makes when between the paper and paint. I think it makes the paper cut deeper. Soak for 30min while you wash the car. I use 2000 grit 3M Imperial paper. I feel that you can remove most imperfections with this paper. Some like to start with 1200 but based on my experience you will just be adding a step that is not necessary. When you start compounding you will have some stray deep scratches that will be hard to remove if you didn't sand enough with a finer grit. Seeing the stray scratches are impossible when there is no gloss. So you could end up removing to much clear or burning the clear trying to compound them out. Is your car clean? If not give it a good washing paying special attention to the nooks and crevices around the area you will be sanding. Dirt trapped in these areas can be flushed out while sanding with the water and come between the paper and paint causing some deep scratches. You can here this happening and you should stop and flush your panel and paper with fresh water to remove the dirt. Lets start sanding. You want to work in a cool well lit area out of the sun. You may be able to see some of the imperfections like dirt or fish eye in the finish of the car but some may be hard to detect but will show up during the compound and polishing step. Orange peel will be obvious and you only should remove enough to match the rest of the car. This takes practice to do. Your first time out don't go for a completely flat finish if your car dose not have one. I start by lightly sanding the panel with my paper wrapped around a foam sanding block. I Call this giving you a guide to the finish. This will high lite all the dirt and orange peel. Squeegee off the water and examen. see example pictures. The circles are showing you dirt in the finish. So now we can see just how much dirt and orange peel in in the finish. Lets start sanding more. Keep the panel wet with water using your sponge. Remember if you here a gritty squeak stop and flush. Work an area stop squeegee and examine. Looking at the next pic we can see that most of the orange peel gone but a big piece of dirt remains. We will need to sand this a little more. When working on curved surfaces you want to remove the block from the paper and use your hand. You never want to sand with your finger tips.try to keep your hand as flat as possible and sand as if you were waving. Sanding with the tips of your fingers will create valleys in theb finish that will look like waves when polished. So now the car is completely sanded Next Compounding