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A&J last won the day on April 19

A&J had the most liked content!

About A&J

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  1. I know OPT makes small formula changes now and then without letting the public know...I was thinking if this is one of those small tweeks. I wish Ron had a say in this.
  2. I don't believe you'll get an answer from ceedog as he ain't on the forum no more...It's a 7 year old topic. Any mf plush towel will do the job.
  3. The seller I got it from got re-supplied with OPT products last year so these were the latest bottles. The old ones I used in the past did not have that sticker on them. Im just being curious. If it was re-formulated Im curious to find out what's the difference, if not its fine with me...this stuff works either way!
  4. Local trader here in EU. Its suppose to be new stuff!
  5. I recently bought a bottle of ONR and Opti-clean and there is a sticker on it saying "NEW FORMULA"! Whats so new about it? What is the difference from the bottle of ONR I bought say last year?
  6. A clay towel is a great tool. If you get the chance to buy one (doesnt have to be OPT) get one. It will save you tons of time!
  7. I thought it hardens or something...
  8. What happenes if it dryes out???
  9. Welcome to the forum Red
  10. Ive seen somewhere there are some OPT trainings in Romania but have no idea who is doing them.
  11. Paint prep wont remove the Zaino AIO. Polish the car and use Paint prep before Gloss coat.
  12. I would suggest you use the wax or sealant first and then top it up with OCW.
  13. This is a good representation on how well the BRS captures but more importantly releases dirt (watch from 1min32s onwards).
  14. The 32oz. bottle should be the concentrate. It dilutes 1:3. The 17oz bottle is the ready to use version.
  15. Where salt is present using Power clean dilluted 1:3 would be the desired method for pre-wash. Spray on, leave for 2-3 min and PW rinse off. Then do a normal ONR (or with whatever else you wish) wash. You could still use Ferrex after that to remove iron contamination. If after that the paint feels smooth you could go straight to seal or wax. Depending on where you live and how you drive you need to remove the following - Tar spots...those black spots caused from agressive driving, fresh layered roads...for those use a dedicated tar remover or clay. - Iron contamination...they are those rust spots caused by industial fallout (it will settle mostly on the top parts of the car) and braking (will settle on the lower side parts of the car behind the wheels (and on the wheels). For that use Ferrex. For heavy dutty contamination you can use Ferrex as clay lube. Ferrex will disolve iron and clay will aggitate it and pick it up. Just remember to do section by section and dont spray Ferrex on the entire car if you are gonna use clay for aggitating. - Road film. Its grease and grime from the road (oil and gas mixture on the road combined with rain and splattered on you car as you drive over it). Clay wont pick that up or remove it completely so that is where Power clean comes into play as a pre wash. - Water spots...caused by hard water. Use MDR for that. All said and done I would still follow it with a light polish or paint clenser using OPT poli-seal or OPT Finish or Hyper polish before protecting paint. But thats just me.