Kiddetailer

I believe there has been videos demonstrating use of Ferrex as a clay lube and saving time/steps. However, I still opt to not do it in that fashion because all that contamination from the Ferrex/iron will just be picked up by the Clay media and would decrease the life of it in my theory. I stick with ONR at clay lube ratio, or ONR at a minimum of 1oz/2gallon if combined with Optimum Car Wax.

I'm starting to get really confused with Optimum products. For example: -Orange and White waffle foam pads (perform similarly; but different), - Hyperseal/OptiSeal ; UltraCeramic/OptimumcarWax -Tire Shine Spray ; Optimum Tire Gel - Optimum Wheel/tire Cleaner ; Optimum Power Clean Anyway....so I'm still trying to understand this new waterless product and what would make me choose this over Opti Clean.

It seems like the Protectant should really replace protectant plus. Pretty much all the time, I wipe down the interior with ONR towel first which does the cleaning, then follow it up with protectant plus for the protection. I hope Optimum ...optimizes their line up and not eventually fall into the Chemical Guys pattern of having 5 products that do the same thing.

I'm looking at the new revision 5 gallon. It shows dilution ratios for Quick Detailer as being 10 oz to 1 gallon?

Wanting to do some wet sanding. What is the proper ratio ?

i have heard the tip is to transfer to Opti seal bottle. also it helps to spray on the towel as an x pattern like you would a coating on an applicator pad.

I’m betting not. Even if Opti seal was used, it was demonstrated to be used after claying was done (with or without optimum car wax).

I just used hyper seal (latest formula) for the first time ever personally on my Opti coat pro plus car and my normal car with nothing but Optimum Car wax/Opti Seal on it. I have to say I think it was an enjoyable product. My questions is if I should be using Gloves when applying this product or is it safe if I don't?

Is ultra ceramic sealant better than hyper seal ?

From what I understand, most instructions show Opti lens being used after headlight lens has been sanded down and polished before application. I was wondering will it work or work better to just wet sand and then apply the product? I noticed there are products on the market that do these wet sand/wipe on coating products and they seem to work well.

cyclone mitt works better because it does. The material on it is meant to pick stuff up while also allowing good release. Apexdetail on youtube has gone over various wash medias and his favorites has been the Big Red Sponge and the Cyclone mitt. The BRS was the softest and had the best release properties with rinseless wash. The Cyclone mitt had 2nd in release properties, but from my experience the cyclone has better pick up ability just due to it being a microfiber. My technique has been to go over the entire car with the ONR and Red Sponge at least once (1st Wash). Then Wash a 2nd time with a Eagle edgeless towel (or Cyclone Mitt) + ONR to pick up anything the Big Red Sponge did not. The 2nd wash should be even safer because the first wash picked up most of the initial stuff that can be picked up. Also got to use some sense here, if I see spots of grease/mud on the car, I'm gonna spray it down with a hose, then possibly spray power clean (let dwell), then hose off the Power clean before starting the 1st wash with Red Sponge/ONR.

Is this appropriate for kitchen surfaces?

Yes, does paint prep have lubricity on its own without need for ONR to wipe down. on that same note, can you clarify if Power Clean be used on paint on its own or should it be used with an ONR wet towel/brush to avoid marring?

I was under the impression that optimum power clean doesn’t produce enough lubrication and should ideally be used along with ONR when wiping on paint? Unlike Ferrex which has been said has enough lubrication to be used on its own? How about optimum paint prep?

I just took a look at my opti lens and gloss coat that I had for probably 5 -6years, which i kept in a zip lock bag and indoors in a container. The Optilens turned white (like butter or lard), the Gloss coat turned to a moist Jelly.

Considering trying this new hyper seal… since Opti seal is about 25$ for 8oz…. Hyper seal is literally twice the amount and twice the price. Does this product migrate through Optimum car wax or ONRWW? How is this product on Windows?

I was also curious, if I were to add Optimum car wax to ONR, what the proper dilution would be

Awesome, I came to the forums to check that what I saw in the store was accurate. It says "new formula"

Is it usually recommended to rinse the Optimum Carpet Fabric cleaner? I'm reading both, that it should be rinsed or no it should not be.

is this product out yet for installers?

it will not work as intended, as I have also talked about this in this thread from another member.

This has been on my mind alot. Does using an absorbent towel like Twisted loop or Waffle weave towel soak up too much of the Optimum car wax when using it to apply or buff off the paint? The only time these towels are used are for drying, but when I want to apply Optimum Car wax as a drying aide, I avoid the absorbent towels and stick with a plush microfiber. I think at least with Opti-seal/hyper seal...since it is suppose to be a wipe on/walk away product, using an absorbent towel would probably not be a good choice of towel as the towel may absorb too much of the product.

excited to try this, I'm expecting some thing good to go against the other rinseless solutions that have been so popular these days.

will not work as you expect it to. Contact wash is still necessary to break the static bond of certain dust/dirt. I recommend taking it to the self serve car wash and blast away any areas Salt may get to, rinse down the entire car. Then presoak the car with a handheld sprayer filled with ONR. Go about your wash with ONR + BRS.