Lowejackson

Chris Thomas used to suggest using OptiClean and then ONR. I have a vague notion Yvan suggested mixing some MDR with ONR but it is entirely possible I dreamt this. The real key is to stop looking for minor paint defects, they cannot be stopped. To quote someone much wiser than me " No one notices those swirls except you, everyone else thinks your car looks great"

I had lots of problems with the spray pattern but none with leaking caps. Maybe I was lucky or perhaps there has been a change in the bottle or cap. Plumbers tape is very cheap so if this works then just replace it as and when required. Plumbers tape should last a bit, as it decreases the friction of the screw, just be careful not to over tighten the cap which will lead to more leaks

Yvan suggested throwing the pad into some ONR until you are ready to wash it with something like Power Clean

Yes, Opticlean is a milder product than Power Clean but stronger than ONR. It is always worth experimenting to see what works for you. If brake dust is a problem then it is worth considering using a coating which should help a bit with cleaning

I cannot speak about Hyper Seal but with Optiseal this can be used over OCW as it will sink below the OCW. Traditionally I have used either OCW or Optiseal as drying aids depending on which bottle was closest to me, they both seem to play nicely with each other and after several years of this approach I have not noticed anything strange. OID is a nice product but rarely use it, maybe if I went to shows or perhaps wanted to sell a car, that last bit of gloss would be useful

Yes, no problem using Optiseal on a final wipe down or use OID if you prefer. Optiseal will give greater protection but OID will give higher gloss but less durability than Optiseal

If Optimum want a Global Ambassador to fly around the world saying nice things about the OPT range then I might be available

Can only buy from authorised installers which means Rag Company etc cannot sell this range. I had a small sample bottle of Hyper Seal and whilst it was a good product I was happy to revert back to Optiseal.

Yup, looks like graphene is going to be the new marketing buzzword even if it does nothing. How long before someone comes up with graphene wash mitts, shampoo or even buckets? Little surprised the beauty industry is not leading on this

A few months ago I pondered on what would happen if someone like Yvan was to retire. As arguably the most visible person at OPT how would this impact a small organisation. Not suggesting good or bad things but it will have an impact. I have worked in HR for long enough to have seen this a few times so it will be interesting to see the changes

Welcome to the forum Stu, Nice to see another Brit here. ONR has been out for about 12 years and I can quite sure if it had been damaging paint, someone would have said something.

With OCW or Hyper Seal it is up to you how you use them, as No Soap says, using them as drying aids will reduce their durability. However, if using them every wash then your car will be protected assuming it is washed on a regular basis. As for having lots of questions, this is the perfect place to ask away.

Thanks Ron. It was just a wild idea but at least I now know it was not a great idea

Thanks Ron

Ron, could this be applied to a prepared surface without paint. If it can be applied to a unpainted surface and I appreciate there is a lot a variables here but would OSPP be lighter or heavier than a normal amount of paint?

It is suggested that the surface should be cleaned with Paint Prep before using CCR. Is this simply to clean the surface or does it assist in other ways like the primer before Opti-coat

I think what Ron is saying is CCR does have the same level of UV filters as clearcoat does but a coating eg Opticoat would have more. The headlight area could be very interesting, ability to polish the plastic, add some CCR and then top with a coating could make a very durable combination. The downside would be buying a bottle just for headlights would not make a lot of sense unless they were doing volume work or were going to do everything on the car in one stage, excluding the coating. The other obvious disadvantage is the clear need for personal protective equipment and cloth disposal, no such concerns with Opti-lens. If CCR worked with Opti-lens then it might offer the best version for UV protection Perhaps this product would make a great discussion on the Synergy Podcast. I assume Dann will start recording again soon.

A very impressive sounding product. If the bottle lasts around a month I presume it is enough to do a standard car, would it be enough for 2 coats?

Oh, watched via Firefox on the TV, don't get to see any comments, will have a look on my computer

Just seen the Rag Company video on the Clear Coat Restorer. Could this be used as a near permanent glaze to hide minor swirls and could it be polished afterwards before applying wax/sealant/coating https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cP7hQB3Bz8

The CarPro coating is obviously a popular and highly regarded product. Gloss Coat sounds like a coating which is as easy to use as Opti Seal so maybe a little easier than the CarPro but try the OPT coating as you have used their products and know they work without much effort. I don't know if Gloss Coat has been changed or not but OPT do tweak their products without notice so it is possible it has been updated. Also it is worth thinking that ONR, Power Clean and Opti Seal have not had significant changes in the last few years but they still perform well. I think the last big tweak to ONR was around 2012!

My first suggestion is to try something like Opticlean. Cannot remember where I saw a thread about using Power Clean with various towels and brushes for this kind of problem, might have been Autogeek but it worked out well by removing the old surface. I think there are some threads where some have concluded it just becomes easier to replace them. The issue seems to be UV has caused the surface material to break down and so a cleaning may or may not help. I have a very vague notion about Dr G suggesting Poliseal but my memory is not so good these days and it is possible two memories have simply merged.

Dale, no idea about Xpel PPF but as I understand it, the OPT PPF can be applied over Opticoat. One option could be to use Optiseal until the PPF is ready. Ron has said Power Clean will remove Optiseal so there should not be any problems in removing it before application of the PPF. A cheaper option is not do anything to the paint, 2 months without protection is not going to do very much.

Somewhere on here Ron or Yvan has talked about this, from what I can remember Hyperseal is recommended for exterior use only but I cannot remember why. Waiting 90 days might seem a long time but why risk anything, after that cleaning the wheels and tyres will be a quick and easy task.

If the painter said wait 90 days then I would wait. I would then suggest coating the wheels and then do the tyres. Agree with A&J about Reload and Optiseal, Reload is a nice product and in my experience has slightly longer durability but Optiseal is more flexible