The Guz

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Everything posted by The Guz

  1. Hyper Polish

    It's optional with opti-seal.
  2. Hyper Polish

    Sure you can follow up hyper polish with opti-seal.
  3. Hello from South Europe

    I would recommend to polish after compounding. It will remove any haze or marring that may occur during the compounding stage. It will impart gloss and refine the finish. You can actually wash the entire car and then follow up by claying the entire car rather than working panel by panel. Both versions of ONR can be used as clay lube as well. You may want to do 2 coats of Gloss Coat one hour apart before topping it with car wax. It will ensure even coverage.
  4. Hello from South Europe

    No optimum paint prep is not required. IPA is listed right on the directions of the syringe. So that works just fine. Top gloss coat with opti-seal to protect it during the curing time. It will protect gloss coat from water spots. Common thing to do. I can't help you with sand spots as I am in California so I don't deal with that phenomenon.
  5. Gloss coat marking

    $300 is a bargain in my opinion. Some charge more than that. It is protecting your paint just like a wax or sealant but at a much higher and more durable level. That is a real simple explanation. There are plenty of good threads on what gloss coat can do. I got this from Autogeek's web site.
  6. Gloss coat marking

    As mentioned coatings are not scratch proof. None of them will do keep scratches from getting to the paint. To say it is a really bad investment is a judgment call for each person. Gloss Coat is a coating and it will protect your paint. It just won't meet your expectations of being scratch proof. This would have happened if you had a wax or sealant on the paint as well. Paint protection film would be the better choice if you wish to protect the paint from scratching. My advice would be to research and gain knowledge on what a coating can and can't do. There are many good posts on this forum along with a few other detailing forums. The optimum synergy podcast is another good source of information on learning more about coatings.
  7. Gloss coat marking

    Welcome to the forum. In general coatings are not scratch proof. They can be scratched and swirled. The benefit to a coating is that they are more durable and longer lasting compared to a wax or sealant. They help with wash induced marring better than a wax or sealant. There are other benefits. It looks like the coating is marred due to the rubbing action of the rack. Not necessarily the fault of the coating or the application by the installer. One's nail can scratch a coating. In order to fix them they need to be polished and re-coated.
  8. I've been lagging on this write up for almost a month now. The owner of this 2002 Corvette is one of my many uncles (my mom's baby bro). A brief background on the car. He is the second owner and he has had it for roughly 10+ years. I think he bought it in 2003 or 2004. Around 2012-2013 he had the car repainted due to clear coat failure on the rear quarters. The high UV index here in Southern California will do that along with not enough care. Also the scratches his dogs put on the paint. So it was repainted. He has been asking me to polish it out for quite sometime but our schedules always conflicted with one another. Since he is in the middle of remodeling his garage, he has been storing it at my brothers place. I had my bro bring it by to work on it. I had all the time in the world with this one so I took my time. He's almost finished with his garage so the car will be going home soon. The paint was in rough shape. I'll let the photos speak for themselves. Started off by cleaning the wheels Wheel cleaner doing it's thing on the passenger side front wheel Before photo of the front driver side wheel After Proceeded onto washing the paint. I use the aggressive wash method as described by Mike Phillips in his article ( Here is my brother foaming up the car using a foam gun Once I finished doing the aggressive wash method, it was dried to give me an idea of what I was working with. The car was pulled into the garage so the paint didn't get to hot from sitting in the sun. The first thing we did was work on the interior. We vacuumed the interior carpets, floor mats as well as clean them, cleaned up the glass and wipedown the interior. The rubber and vinyl dash areas on the door panels and dash were treated with 303 Automotive protectant. The leather was cleaned with leather cleaner and coated with cquartz leather coating. Completed interior While I was working on the interior my brother polished the exhaust tips with a fine cut metal polish. I ended up coating the exhaust tips later on. He also dressed up the engine bay. I forgot to mention that my brother cleaned the engine bay while I was cleaning the wheels. It needed it as it had been to Arizona a few times when his wife was in the military. This is what the engine bay looked like upon arriving This is what it looked like after using Blackfire All In One Trim & Tire Protectant My uncles rinsed the car with water and let it dry just like that. There was severe water spots on the glass and taillights. Some M101 compound on a cutting pad and a DA took care of them. Up next was the test spot. Started off with M205 on a polishing pad using my Rupes LHR15 Mark II. That did ok but I needed to get more aggressive and move up to a compound and a cutting pad. I ended up correcting the paint with Meguiar's D300 correction compound on a Griot's Boss microfiber cutting pad. The compound is low dusting and it does the work quick. For smaller areas I used my Rupes mini with a 3" Lake Country flat foam cutting pad. Here are a couple before and afters Nano getting into those edges The passenger side rear quarter Once I finished compounding the car, I removed each taillight and polished them out to remove the water spots on them After the paint was compounded I polished it with Rupes Keramik fine polish. I followed up with an ONR wash to remove any compounding and polishing dust. There was very little from both products. I followed that up with couple wipedowns of Optimum Paint Prep to prep the paint for Gloss Coat. I didn't get too many photos during the polishing phase. Here's one of the Nano in action Temp stats. The humidity was higher than normal this day. Gloss Coat flashed a bit quicker than normal but was not an issue Gloss Coat Flashing Great gloss after the first coat While I was waiting for to apply the second coat I coated the exhaust tips and the face of the wheels. He will be getting new wheels at a later time so I didn't coat the barrles Polishing the wheels with the Rupes Nano Final results after 2 coats of Gloss Coat and 1 Coat of Opti Seal He received his new plates Night and day difference Thanks for looking.
  9. Hello from South Europe

    Welcome to the forum. I hope I answered your questions. If not others can chime in as well. 15% is recommended as that is enough to remove the polishing oils. If you have access to optimum paint prep that would be even better as it is an IPA alternative. It also contains a catalyst for gloss coat to bond to. I'll let someone from Optimum answer this one. But gloss coat will flash quicker at this temperature. It takes a week for gloss coat to fully cure. That is why it is not recommended to wash it within a week. It is common practice to top gloss coat with opti-seal to act as a sacrificial barrier during the curing window of gloss coat. Opti-seal will be shed within a couple weeks due to the self cleaning effects of gloss coat. You can drive your car as is. Gloss Coat can get wet within 1 hour of application. For example if it rains. You can use a wax but it is not needed. The self cleaning properties of gloss coat will shed it within a couple weeks. Some like to use opti-seal as a drying aid during an ONR wash or two bucket wash to add a little protection. SiO2 based products play well with Gloss Coat. Optimum just came out with a new line of products for coating maintenance. Within this new line hyper seal is available and according to Yvan it bonds better to the coating compared to opti-seal. Regular ONR or ONRWW are perfectly fine to use with gloss coat. That is correct. Gloss Coat is a hybrid coating consisting of SiO2 and SiC (silica carbide).
  10. Well it was time to do some coating upkeep. Some minor/slight swirling has developed on some of the coating. I ended up using CarPro Essence Plus to "repair" the coating. For those that are not familiar with the product, this fills in the minor defects and deposits a layer of SiO2. It is a non-abrasive jeweling polish. Topped it off with an SiO2 sealant. There will be a few folks who say gloss coat does not need a topper and Optimum states the same thing. But in my experience and in my opinion gloss coat needs some sort of rejuvenation type product to maintain it. Other choose to use opti-seal. To put it best, frequent car care is easy car care. One thing is certain, the gloss is amazing. The defects have been filled until it is time to re-polish and re-coat.
  11. New Member

    Welcome to the forum
  12. Pre soak, lubrication

    The initial ONR pre-spray seems like a waste of ONR. Especially if you are going to blast the surface with a pressure washer. Here's an even simpler process 1. Rinse 2. Wash 3. Dry 4. Done No need to over think it or over complicate things. The pluffle is a fine drying towel. It absorbs water better than an edgeless towe such as the TRC eagle edgelessl.
  13. Yes you can add ONR into your soap bucket. It will act as a water softner but limit the amount of suds produced.
  14. Opti clean as a drying aid?

    I agree. The other options are better as a drying aid.
  15. There is no wrong way to approach the wash with either the so called Gary Dean method or the BRS. The BRS is just as good as using multiple microfibers to keep your garage "clean". This is from personal experience. One pro for the BRS is that I don't have a dozen microfibers piled up waiting to be washed. With regards to the pre-spray. Opti-clean works fine but I would use that for what it is and that is a waterless wash for in between washes. I would just dunk a spray bottle into the ONR mixture and use that as a pre-spray. It is more cost effective and works just as good. OID works fine as a drying aid. Opti-Seal and car wax works as well and both leave protection behind. Eagle Edgeless towels are prefect for a rinseless wash. As a drying aid you may want to consider the pluffle or the twistress. These two towels work better to dry over the eagle edgeless. ONR can absolutely be used weekly. It can easily replace a traditional bucket wash if used on a regular basis. I do it all the time.
  16. Brand new car headlights

    One thing I forgot to mention is to look into xpel. They make pre-cut headlight protection film that is quite thick. Then one can coat over the film as an optional step to have the hydrophobic properties. Or possibly the shop you are going to sells the new optimum paint protection film. That will keep the headlights looking good for a long time. I currently have xpel on my new headlights with a coating on the film. Will also keep them from getting pitted from highway driving.
  17. Brand new car headlights

    For new headlights I would just have them use pro plus on them. If the headlights needed some sort of restoration then opti-lens would be the way to go.
  18. Glass coat

    This is what happened to mine after one use and putting it away. I would recommend flushing the sprayer out after using it.
  19. Glass coat

    Yes it clogs. Middle of a detail and it's barely squirting out of the nozzle. Its a pain to work with. It's a good glass coating but needs a to be more user friendly on buffing off high spots.
  20. Decon wash

    On this podcast episode Yvan and Dann speak about the chemical decon wash as well. It is around the 20 min mark. Here are the highlights. Pre-Wash with ONR MDR at 3:1. Safe to use around glass and trim. Can be sprayed over the ONR surface. Let dwell for 3-5 mins. Do not let dry. Agitate if heavily contaminated by using a microfiber towel (plush towel/long nap) that has been soaked in the ONR bucket. Go around the entire vehicle with the towel on the ONR/MDR surface mix. Do not place the towel back into the ONR bucket. Power Clean at 3:1. Keep it off glass. Let it dwell for a couple minutes. Agitate with a microfiber towel soaked in ONR. Do not put towel back into ONR bucket. Rinse. Rinse with hose water. Ferrex. Can agitate with ONR damp microfiber Rinse. Final Rinse. All steps do not have to be done. Depends on how contaminated the surface is. I personally like use Ferrex as the first step on the dry paint even with dirt on the surface. The reason for this is to get the full performance out of it instead of being diluted with water on the surface. I will then rinse it with water to get all the ferrex off the surface. Then depending on the contaminants, I would either use power clean and/or MDR. Start with ferrex first. That may be all you need to do. There is also the mechanical decon using the wash, clay, wax method.
  21. NRWW and OCW

    Oops I made a typo. It should have read to use OCW as part of the wash, clay, wax method and not actually using OCW to wash. The wax in ONRWW is not as durable as the stand alone wax. So is it enough? Tough question to answer. OCW or even opti seal is not that expensive given how such little product goes a long way.
  22. NRWW and OCW

    You can use optimum car wax as clay lube to wash, clay, wax in one step. Check out the rag company youtube channel for that method.
  23. I did a paint correction and coating on this Camaro back on 12/20/2015 A brief background. At the time my uncle had asked me if I could polish up his Camaro. He saw my previous work and I said sure. It turns out he was going to hand over the keys to his son for his 18th birthday. So to make this a little more special, I decided to not only correct it but to coat it with Gloss Coat. At the time the new version of gloss coat was introduced. It was a perfect opportunity to try it out. This was the first time I had used gloss coat but not the first time I used a coating. This is what it looked like when it was dropped off First up was cleaning up the interior. It just needed a good vaccum. I cleaned the floor mats as well as some touch ups to the cloth seats. I wiped down the interior (plastic, vinyl, rubber) and applied a non optimum protectant. Next up was using an iron remover to decontaminate the paint. Followed that up with a foam bath There was clearly no type of protection on this paint Pulled it into the garage and started to clay it. My uncle lives by a refinery so there was a lot of contamination on the paint. Moved onto my test spot with a polishing pad and polish. I used a non optimum polish. Before After There was some deeper defects that still remained so I opted to move up to a compound Another 50/50 of an area that was compounded One more After it was corrected and coated Once the correction was completed and the paint was wipedown with IPA, it was time to apply gloss coat Some afters after applying 2 coats of gloss coat This is not a true SS. My uncle found the badge at a local automotive swap meet and he put it on. We gave him a hard time about this lol. My 4th gen in the back of this 5th gen Cleaned up the engine bay as well. Once I was done I had kept the car for a few days until my cousins actual birthday. My uncle called me letting me know to drive over to his house. My cousin was surprised and was thrilled at how the car looked. His dad had told him the car was in for recall service. I set him up with a basic wash kit. I have him coming back soon for a maintenance wash to see how the coating is doing. But last I heard from both of them is that the car looks great and is easier to wash.
  24. 2010 Camaro Coated with Gloss Coat

    When I first used it I was like it is so so. But after extended use I have to say it has become my favorite interior protectant. Leaves a great finish and as you stated very durable. Also does not attract much dust compared to other products. I just bought more.
  25. Pearl nap towel?

    Any low nap towel would be sufficient. The sweet spot is between 300-400.