The Guz

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Everything posted by The Guz

  1. Here is what someone posted on Autogeek the other day. See post #133
  2. One bucket with ONR and a grit guard. The dirt is released by the sponge easily with a quick agitation on the grit guard and ONR takes the dirt to the bottom of the bucket. I trust the science of the product and up to now it has not failed me. I have never done a hose rinse. I wash on a weekly basis and there is no need for me to hose rinse. If the vehicle is too dirty then I just bucket wash. I do use a pre-soak with ONR just to have ONR start breaking the dirt and encapsulating the dirt that is on the surface.
  3. I use the BRS when I use ONR. In the course of 2 years, I have not had a single issue. No scratching or marring with it. I started off with the multiple towel method but switched over to the BRS. Saves me from using so many towels and is much quicker to clean the paint. Never used the blue sponge.
  4. Good questions. For me it's a case by case situation. There are times when the paint will need a bucket wash over a rinseless wash. Rinseless washes are great for those vehicles that are washed on a weekly regiment where little to no dirt is on the surface. Possibly even washing bi-weekly. I have read and heard different things mentioned about the polymers from the facebook group and on the optimum synergy podcast. I have heard that the polymers are there to assist in dirt removal and giving that "cushion" to not marr the surface during the process. I have recently read that ONR does not leave anything behind on the surface thus making it paint safe and ok to use prior to polishing based on what Yvan and the other members have mentioned in the facebook group . Take that for what it's worth. Based on your situation it appears that you prefer to use the bucket wash over ONR. If the bucket washes are working then no sense in breaking what is not broken. If you wish to venture into rinseless washing and be more efficient than ONR is good for that. If you wish to leave some protection behind you have a variety of products that can be used as drying aid such as Opt car wax and opti-seal. You also have the option to use the new Hyper Seal which contains SiO2 in it. I found this post from Chris Thomas. It is from some time ago but it should still pertain to the car wash.
  5. Glass Coating prep and application

    If your glass is in good shape then a clay, prep and coat would work fine. If you have some sort of previous layer of a glass sealant/coating then you would want to polish. No need to mask off any surrounding areas. Spray onto the glass and spread. If some gets onto another surface a simple wipe off will get it off before it starts to flash and cure. I would recommend flushing out the sprayer after using the glass coating to prevent the sprayer from getting clogged.
  6. ?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

    I agree that you are fine. I have used a polish that has less cut than hyper polish on a polishing pad and that was enough to remove Gloss Coat that was over a year old.
  7. ONR Drying

    It is perfectly fine if you see a little dirt on your towel making a pass to dry the paint. Here's a tip when using the BRS or BGS. After you make a pass with ONR and wither sponge, take one towel and remove the residue along with the dirt. Come back with another towel and use your drying aid of choice or just lightly buff the surface. The polymers are there to encapsulate and safely lift away the dirt from the surface.
  8. Opti Coat No Rinse

    I am pretty sure the dilution ratios are the same for as regular ONR. The difference being opti-coat no rinse has gloss enhancers.
  9. ONR Drying

    What was your technique to use it? Wash mitt? Big red sponge?
  10. ?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

    Will you be doing a polish to remove the current layer of gloss coat to start with a clean surface? Also hyper polish can be used to polish plastic as it won’t stain plastic trim. But A&J provided good info.
  11. Dilution of paint prep

    The direction on gloss coat also mention around 15% IPA. So if you run out of paint prep you can use that. Or hold off and get more paint prep.
  12. Dilution of paint prep

    Worst case is you can use IPA.
  13. Optimum doesn't sell a dedicated trim product but you would be fine cleaning it with a waterless wash as you clean the rest of the car. Opti-Seal won't stain trim but it also won't restore faded trim.
  14. OCW is a nice wax. Easy and simple to use. Use it monthly and it will do just fine. If you are looking for something to spot clean those specific things I would look into Opti-Clean (waterless wash), Instant Detailer or on those rare occasions Power Clean. Just be sure to follow up with some protection after power clean as it would degrade the protection on the surface. Optimum No Rinse (ONR) would be good to have as well. As far as claying, clay when you think it is time for that. People often refer to the baggie test. Google if you are not aware of that method. I would probably stick with clay rather than the clay towel as the towel has the potential to marr more than a clay bar.
  15. Hyper seal or opti seal on gloss coat?

    Found this in the optimum car care facebook group. So unless something has changed, I would stick with opti-seal 1 hour after gloss coat.
  16. I corrected this one during the 4th of July week. This is my dad's new car. It replaced his 2002 Camaro Z28 that was stolen a few months ago. The Impala was a former Enterprise rental car. It was purchased through Enterprise car sales. It has 30K miles on it. The interior is in very good shape. The exterior has minor scratches and chips from it's abuse as a former rental car. The color is champagne silver metallic. A one step polish was performed using a non optimum polishing compound on my Rupes tools (LHR15 Mark II, Mini Nano). Started off by decontaminating the paint I followed that up by using an aggressive wash method that is described by Mike Phillips using Optimum Car Wash in my foam gun. Once it is clean, I foamed up the car and clayed it using a clay mitt and the foam shampoo as clay lube. That exposed the true condition of the paint. 50/50 before After Once the paint was corrected, it was prepped with Optimum Paint Prep. The car was coated with 2 coats of gloss coat and 1 coat of opti-seal. The end result is a very glossy finish. All chrome was polished to remove all water spots. It was also coated with gloss coat. The headlights were lightly polished and coated with opti-lens. Same process was done on the taillights. No more paint defects The glass was clayed and coated with opti-glass. Days later it was cleaned with opti-glass clean & protect The trim was also restored. It was restored with solution finish. I know optimum doesn't recommend applying it over another product. I applied it to get better hydrophobic properties and to get longer lasting protection. I waited a few days prior to coating the trim. I also wiped it down really good prior to coating it. Before After In daylight Same process on the lower rear bumper trim. The interior had been cleaned a couple weeks prior to all it received was a vacuum and a wiprdown of all surfaces Wheels and tires coated with non optimum products Dad was ecstatic at the end result. He is good to go for quite sometime. I will be maintaining it with ONR and possibly opti-seal if I get bored A dramatic turnaround for a former rental car. Comments are welcomed.
  17. I forgot to update this thread as well. But the vette was polished and re-coated back in November of 2017. Gloss Coat did a better job on this one given that it spends most of it's time in the garage. There was marring that needed to be addressed. It was re-coated in another manufacturers coating.
  18. I've been lagging on this write up for almost a month now. The owner of this 2002 Corvette is one of my many uncles (my mom's baby bro). A brief background on the car. He is the second owner and he has had it for roughly 10+ years. I think he bought it in 2003 or 2004. Around 2012-2013 he had the car repainted due to clear coat failure on the rear quarters. The high UV index here in Southern California will do that along with not enough care. Also the scratches his dogs put on the paint. So it was repainted. He has been asking me to polish it out for quite sometime but our schedules always conflicted with one another. Since he is in the middle of remodeling his garage, he has been storing it at my brothers place. I had my bro bring it by to work on it. I had all the time in the world with this one so I took my time. He's almost finished with his garage so the car will be going home soon. The paint was in rough shape. I'll let the photos speak for themselves. Started off by cleaning the wheels Wheel cleaner doing it's thing on the passenger side front wheel Before photo of the front driver side wheel After Proceeded onto washing the paint. I use the aggressive wash method as described by Mike Phillips in his article ( Here is my brother foaming up the car using a foam gun Once I finished doing the aggressive wash method, it was dried to give me an idea of what I was working with. The car was pulled into the garage so the paint didn't get to hot from sitting in the sun. The first thing we did was work on the interior. We vacuumed the interior carpets, floor mats as well as clean them, cleaned up the glass and wipedown the interior. The rubber and vinyl dash areas on the door panels and dash were treated with 303 Automotive protectant. The leather was cleaned with leather cleaner and coated with cquartz leather coating. Completed interior While I was working on the interior my brother polished the exhaust tips with a fine cut metal polish. I ended up coating the exhaust tips later on. He also dressed up the engine bay. I forgot to mention that my brother cleaned the engine bay while I was cleaning the wheels. It needed it as it had been to Arizona a few times when his wife was in the military. This is what the engine bay looked like upon arriving This is what it looked like after using Blackfire All In One Trim & Tire Protectant My uncles rinsed the car with water and let it dry just like that. There was severe water spots on the glass and taillights. Some M101 compound on a cutting pad and a DA took care of them. Up next was the test spot. Started off with M205 on a polishing pad using my Rupes LHR15 Mark II. That did ok but I needed to get more aggressive and move up to a compound and a cutting pad. I ended up correcting the paint with Meguiar's D300 correction compound on a Griot's Boss microfiber cutting pad. The compound is low dusting and it does the work quick. For smaller areas I used my Rupes mini with a 3" Lake Country flat foam cutting pad. Here are a couple before and afters Nano getting into those edges The passenger side rear quarter Once I finished compounding the car, I removed each taillight and polished them out to remove the water spots on them After the paint was compounded I polished it with Rupes Keramik fine polish. I followed up with an ONR wash to remove any compounding and polishing dust. There was very little from both products. I followed that up with couple wipedowns of Optimum Paint Prep to prep the paint for Gloss Coat. I didn't get too many photos during the polishing phase. Here's one of the Nano in action Temp stats. The humidity was higher than normal this day. Gloss Coat flashed a bit quicker than normal but was not an issue Gloss Coat Flashing Great gloss after the first coat While I was waiting for to apply the second coat I coated the exhaust tips and the face of the wheels. He will be getting new wheels at a later time so I didn't coat the barrles Polishing the wheels with the Rupes Nano Final results after 2 coats of Gloss Coat and 1 Coat of Opti Seal He received his new plates Night and day difference Thanks for looking.
  19. Well last update for this one. After a year and half it was time for a polish and re-coat. Overall gloss coat did a decent job. There was some areas that were having some performance issues before the 1 year mark. There were areas on various parts of the car that were looking like there was nothing on the paint. So I had started to use a silica spray sealant to limp along until I had time to polish and re-coat. It was polished and re-coated with another manufacturer's coating as I move on from Gloss Coat to try something else. My overall thoughts is that Gloss Coat is good for a 1 year coating. After that it starts to have some slight performance issues even after a decontamination based on experience from 3 different vehicles that I applied it to. But at it's price point it's hard to choose based on the price of other coatings who perform a bit better. The ease of use is a plus and is nice for newcomers into the coating market. It has a decent look but tends to look a little more plastic looking compared to some of the other coatings I have used. Like most coatings it has the rubbery/grabby type feeling to it. Overall it did a decent job.
  20. Optimum MDR

    I'd consider ferrex as well and MDR only if you need it. Paint prep would be optional and you can use opti seal or car wax.
  21. Paint Prep should remove opti-seal. I can't comment on the pro coating as that is only available to an authorized installer. From personal experience gloss coat has decent marring resistance compared to other coatings I have used.
  22. You did not do anything wrong. Unfortunately coatings are not scratch proof. But they do help with wash induced marring as they provide a harder surface compared to a wax or sealant. Another thing to note is the coating layer is not that thick in the grand scheme of things. So in a sense a coating seems to take on the behavior of the painted surface.
  23. First attempt at using Gloss Coat

    If you do end up with high spots, paint prep may not be enough to remove them if the coating has cured. If that does not work you will have to polish and re-coat. The advantage is you ensure even coverage. It is up to the user to a second coat. If it looks fine based on washing then leave it as is. Like most modern day products, less is more.
  24. Optimum Glass Coat Troubles

    It is not the easiest glass coating to use but it is one of the best performing glass coatings on the market. I would recommend to work in smaller sections or you will be working hard to level out the coating.
  25. Optimum Gloss Coat - High spots

    Polish and re-coat.