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But fully resistant to water, rain, washing after 1 hour?

Ron, Do you know the temp resistance of gloss coat? Wondering whether it will last on brake calipers, exhaust tips, and other very hot surfaces. Also, I know it says not to apply on glass, but is that mainly due to wiper easily wearing it off? Or are there other reasons not to use it on side or back glass? Thanks!

Do other retailers already have this version of glosscoat or is it only available directly through optimum right now?

Any difference with this formula change in regard to: -application method, temps, and leveling time -cure time -durability -slickness -hydrophobics -gloss levels -layerability and film build thickness Looking forward to hear more what these improvements mean to end results and how they may get glosscoat more competitive with the current set of consumer coatings.

Hi Ron, Is there a new gloss coat formula now? It seems the opticoat website says new formula but I don’t see any mention of it being updated and I can’t tell what’s different from the description. https://www.opticoat.com/product/optimum-gloss-coat/

Are we talking about the same thing here? I’m pretty sure Ferrari owners are quite pissed that their hvac controls and radio buttons stick to their finger when they touch it and look like crap. And it has nothing to do with touching it causing it. You can have the car garaged and undriven for the entire time and in 5 years or so the material just starts to melt and dissolve. PPF the buttons and console? I’ve never heard of that but that certainly doesn’t make sense since it’s a matte soft surface. You’ll certainly ruin it with ppf adhesives.

Lots of cars, especially European cars, have soft touch surfaces in their interiors. Ferrari, Maserati, MB, VW, and many more. These surfaces always seem to become sticky and gross after a few years and it seems a big mess to deal with. I’ve read countless complaints by people and the only solution is to dissolve that mess. However.c I’m wondering if there is a way to prevent it when new. Does Optimum offer any product that can protect those surfaces and prevent this degradation? Opticoat Leather and interior? Hyperseal/optiseal? Protectant plus? Does anyone have long term experience with these products on a soft touch surface and know the outcome? It’s really sad when a car interior becomes like your old gaming mouse after a few years except you can’t just easily throw it away and buy a new one.

I think you must be confusing the Scott I’m referring to with someone else, because it doesn’t sound like you’ve been watching the LSP testing videos we’ve been talking about. He doesn’t use APC to try and make the coatings fail. He only washes the panels once a month with honeydew snow foam. The rest is up to the environment.

It means original gangster or original, onr was one of the first rinseless washes for years before the market became proliferated with them now.

Tug, What do you suggest as a way to tell a coating is still there and protecting the paint? By the way, Scott at viewer requests has also done decon washes at the end of the test when near everything has failed to see if some coatings revive. I’ve seen that Scott is pretty open to suggestions to make the tests as fair as possible and to show what viewers want. You are free to go and comment about your concerns of his protocol if you think it’ll make opticoat get judged unfairly, it’ll be more useful to let him know before he starts the testing. The panel is still in cure until oct 1st.

I agree with Ron here. Powerclean would probably be too diluted to do much good. It would be more efficient to use power clean at recommended dilution ratio and then wash it off with the car wash after. Also, you probably generally won’t need power clean for paint except for spot treatment of specific stains or when doing a decon wash. Using it on the whole car normally is overkill and will weaken your LSP unless it’s opticoat pro. So not something you’d normally want to do with every wash.

I think one thing unique to ONR is if you’re using the rest of the optimum line up, it’s polymers are compatible so as not to cause durability concerns when used before coating a car or using optiseal/Hyperseal. Other rinseless washes are an unknown in this regard. For that reason, it’s enough to have me stick with ONR at least for prepping for an LSP.

I guess I prefer Scott’s current methods as it’s a closer match to conditions I have. I barely get rain so road film is rare, it’s always horizontal panels that lose their beading first where I live. And a road film concoction is an artificial variable that you never know what’s actually in it, whether it gets onto sun exposed parts, how it could be tailored to affect some products but not others. I think it’s better he keeps it all with Mother Nature doing the wear and tear. All variables like weather conditions are outside his control so would be what the majority of people would encounter anyway.

I apologize Tug. I didn’t mean it as what you specifically tell your customers. I meant it as what pro detailers generally tell their customers as it’s the same official recommendation from opticoat and their reps. This is evidenced by what my pro detailer told me when I got opticoat pro and pro plus installed. By postings by multiple other customers on what their installer told them when they were worried about when to get their car rained or washing off bird crap that came before or after the 7 day period, and by postings of other pro installers who echo’d the 7 day full chemical resistance readiness cure time with regular washing being allowed at that point. About the soap comment, I won’t go there. I’ve never heard of limitations on what you could wash opticoat with. I don’t know how you would classify honeydew snow foam by chemical guys either. All I know is Scott uses the same protocol for every wax, sealant, coating test to make it fair game. And he’s had coatings make it 2 years with beading still using that protocol. I, like you apparently, personally would try to wait 30 days without washing myself to get the full hardness cure too. But I’d also just leave it garaged and undriven during those 30 days because it prevents the chance of bird crap, bee crap, bug guys and other crap that always lands on a car driven or parked outside. But I also know I go to extremes to get optimal performance out of a product that others don’t care enough to or don’t have the means of keeping a car unused and protected for a month. Most likely in driving it, people will want to wash off the corrosive poop and guts off right away so they also don’t negatively affect the coating, and going 30 days without getting any of that on, at least in my area, is pretty much impossible.

Tug, I think he did just fine with his test protocol. He doesn’t do chemical tests. His test would be similar to a realistic user situation. Based on what he said for this coming test set and what he’s done in the past, it’s coat, cure for 7 days with no water contact, then starting at that 7 day mark, spray with water to show initial performance of all coatings. After that, every month or two, it is foaming with honeydew snow foam, rinsing, foaming again, rinsing, then washing with a mitt, then rinsing and reporting water behavior. There are no harsh chemicals or mechanical arasions to try and accelerate the test. I feel his test protocol mimics what a person would actually do to take care of their car. This is as real world as it get to a common person’s care of a car. What he’s doing is exactly what you’d tell your customer they could do once getting opticoat. You’re not going to say they can’t wash their car for 30 days to allow full hardened cure. The only rule is to not wash it for 7 days. And he is following that rule.