Setec Astronomy

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Setec Astronomy last won the day on August 26 2016

Setec Astronomy had the most liked content!

About Setec Astronomy

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  1. Yeah, who knows, maybe their plan is just not to carry it anymore, and someone at the one store just jumped to a conclusion as to why it was out of stock.
  2. Ha ha---Nutbread pointed out that I'm an idiot and typed OPTI-Seal in the last line of my original post, instead of POLI-Seal. So as in the title of the thread--I meant to say Poli-Seal...sorry for the confusion. I guess we should just take what PBMG is saying with a grain of salt, they have been a little weird with how they stock some of the OPT products, like when the white hyper compound came out they didn't stock that until they sold out the orange version, and they haven't restocked that as Intensive they don't sell the larger sizes anymore. They are also notorious for weeding out slow-movers from their inventory, which maybe Poli-Seal was for them.
  3. I think you misread something, Lowe. I was referring to Poli-Seal, not Opti-Seal. IIRC, Opti-Seal has had one formula change, besides any smaller tweaks the good Dr. has done.
  4. In the interest of starting unsubstantiated rumors, it has been brought to my attention that the PBMG web stores do not have Optimum Poli-Seal in stock, and that one of them states "New Formula Coming Soon!" I also note that the Optimum store has Poli-Seal in stock. Since it's the PBMG/Autgeek Detail Fest this weekend, and OPT will surely have a booth, and Yvan is conducting seminars...are we going to hear something this weekend about a new formula of Opti-Seal?
  5. There was a LOT of disagreement with OC Pro and OC 2.0 about recoating. Back in those days, it was hard to get the same answer twice. At one time we were told you couldn't do a second layer because it wouldn't stick. Then it was, you can do a second layer, but it has to be done within a short time (hours) after the first layer. Then it was you can do a second layer, but it has to be before the coating fully dehydrates, which could be months. Some of the confusion was because of differences between the Pro and 2.0 versions, some was running changes to the products, some was learning more about the product as time went on. The good news is, you can't get OC 2.0 anymore, and Gloss-Coat is a hybrid product which I understand can be topped at any time by any thing. Oh, and as Ron alluded to, there was also some disagreement about whether multiple layers was needed...which was kind of the same round and round. Pro gave a thicker layer than 2.0, so wasn't that better? you could do multiple coats of 2.0 to try and build it up thicker...but you don't need to do that. But if you don't need to do it why is one of the selling points of getting the Pro coating is that it has a thicker film build? Well, that's because it has a warranty. And around and around. A lot of these discussions were lost from the forum when the member that was supplying a lot of this info left and took his posts with him.
  6. Brad, it sounds like you used too much product. I find it's better to do really thin coats, then go back and do a second maybe a half hour after the first. It sounds like you wanted to make sure you had enough on, and then wipe down the excess. You don't really want to have excess to wipe off, the towel wipe is just to make sure you don't have excess that will cause a "high spot". You've used a WOWA sealant, right? It's the same idea, you ideally just want it to disappear, but if you apply too much and have a spot that doesn't evaporate, you knock that down later, but before it...cures. I have to admit I don't think I've used Gloss-Coat on wheels, because I still have some OC 2.0 that I use for wheels. I think you'll get the hang of it--just like with all LSP's...less is more.
  7. Brad, I got this tip from Anthony Orosco, I usually use a square or rectangle of Scott blue shop (paper) towel to apply coatings to small areas like headlights or wheels...and then you can just throw it away when you're done or if it gets dirty. You waste less coating because it doesn't absorb much, and it's easy to get in between spokes and see what you are doing (I usually do it off the car on a work bench). You can fold it over as appropriate to give you the amount of absorbtion you want. Anthony's method was for larger surfaces, where he put a foam applicator in a nitrile glove, and then wrapped it with the shop towel...that video may be around here somewhere. Oh wait--here it is:
  8. I'm just having trouble with the mechanics and navigation of it--this forum has always been different since it used a different software than most forums, that use vBulletin. Usually any forum I am on I find the "new posts" button and that's how I start my visit. I forget what the equivalent button was here, but now it's Activity/Unread Content. Hopefully we'll all get used to this pretty quickly.
  9. Wow, this is going to take some getting used to...
  10. Well, in his review of some polisher, he didn't care enough to edit out the minute or two he spent searching on his computer for a picture of the machine that he couldn't find...did we need to watch that? I liked it when YouTube had a limit on the length of videos, it forced people to self-edit.
  11. I'm not even going to watch that...even I, the king of verbal run-on, could beat that topic to death in less than 15 minutes. That guy really needs to learn to edit himself and his videos.
  12. The fine clay towel seems to be available in the store now:
  13. Holy cow, Brad B!!!
  14. If the bridge too far is the dirty water, you can do what I do, and use a rinse bucket, then you're only dipping the wash media into clean ONR. I usually put 2 gallons of water in the rinse bucket with 1/4 oz of ONR. Then I usually only need a half gallon of regular-strength ONR in the "wash" bucket.
  15. Well, I've reused plenty of spray bottles for plenty of things, as Ron has, but with the kinds of things you've run through those I'd just get a spray bottle at Home Depot for $1.72