Ron@Optimum

Response from Dr G (similar to mine) - CCR is for oxidized paint that still has film integrity. Once the paint starts failing and is delaminating there is no way to save it and requires repaint. That seems to be the case here based on the statements like paint melting.

can't answer that -

I can't open the video - was there clear coat on the spoiler? CCR is a clear coat restorer, but needs clear to bond, so won't work where clear is gone.

MDR has a 3.5 pH, close enough to neutral that it doesn't remove Coating.

can't say exactly when, but at least 3 years ago.

the recommendation for 12 hours after application remains, even if Hyper Seal or Opti-Seal are added.

don't know if it will "migrate" but at worst it adds a layer of protection.

I've had both Opti-Coat Pro and Gloss-Coat, never opened and kept refrigerated, go gel (but they were several years old)...indefinite shelf life means unpredictable.

I (and Dr G) have answered your question about MDR and Gloss-Coat.

Paul, asked and answered...

Paul - GC and HS have a pH range of 4 - 10, just like it says. MDR will not remove Gloss-Coat.

and I have lots of answers, thanks to Dr G! One commenter believed GC would last "forever" if you keep topping it off with HS. Gloss-Coat can last indefinitely with regular application of Hyper Seal (forever is a long time...) I questioned what causes a coating to break down, is it the bond to the paint or external wear, or both? Mostly from washing and additionally from UV breakdown Others questioned if HS will crosslink with GC seeing they are related products. They should how does the gloss and slickness of HS compare to OCW? Gloss and slickness is greater than OCW Can you also confirm the ph resistance range of GC and HS? 4-10 I know Yvan would also say Opti-coat is resistant to ph 0 - 14, not sure if the same if true of GC. It is not, one of the advantages of pro products is greater chemical resistance.

there is no "single truth" to using Wax and Seal - they can be used together, alternated, and in any order. Some Pro installers apply both to get the carnuaba look and Seal durability. The shine, slickness, AND beading seem to vary by user...and maybe are effected by car surface, weather conditions, even application method?

The ratios above are mostly, but not entirely Optimum's recommendations. For really hard water, OPT recommends 1 oz of ONR to 1 gallon. Dedicated glass cleaner is 6 oz ONR to 1 gallon. All formulas are open for customization - for instance some mix ONR 256:1 in garden sprayer as pre-soak, not as effective as 16:1 pre-spray/quick detailer but still works (and economical).

Opti-Bond is fine as a trim treatment, but unlike Opti-Seal or Protectant Plus, it's greasy and a dust magnet.

as long as the coating is liquid, it will work as advertised. I doubt any coating, after 5+ years opened or not, will still be liquid.

Welcome - we were all new once! Optimum products are proudly manufactured in Memphis TN -

Hyper Seal has greater durability, particularly on ceramic coated vehicles (1 year+). Ease of application is the same as OS, gloss/slickness/hydrophobics seem to be a matter of opinion...It is harder and more chemically resistant than OS (per Dr G). Hyper Seal is being compared to light ceramic coatings with many of the same performance characteristics.

Paul, I think you posted this same question on facebook and got solid responses - I have nothing to really add to those.

in general, less is better with Optimum products. For Opti-Clean I've found the amount of product is dependent on how dirty (and what kind of dirt) is the paint. For light dust/pollen, a little product works fine. For heavy dirt or the kind accumulated during winter driving, a heavier application (or multiple passes) of OC may be needed. Saturation might be necessary for build up/baked on dirt.

To be clear, ONR does leave polymers behind for gloss, but it does not need to be removed before coating (or waxing/sealing). The same is true for hyper polishes - most Optimum products are formulated to work together. Paul also implies ONR (or other cleaners} hurt paint protection and that is also false, at least for OPT protection...Optimum wax/sealants/coatings are not reduced by normal wash products.

because it's waterless, Opti-Clean can require more solution than ONR.

with apologies to Yvan, I deviate from standard ratios all the time, and with products besides ONR (Power Clean, Opti-Clean, Carpet & Fabric, Opti-Bond, etc). A little experimentation is fun and there's nothing you can't come back from!

curious why the surprise that a pre-spray ratio cleans better than the wash mix? Opti-Clean is stronger than ONR and also works as a pre-spray. My only issue with Opti-Clean, it's less effective (IMO) on dirty cars - you need to use more product or make more passes and it becomes less cost effective then than ONR.

I'm always hesitant to to make guesses based on photos -