Ron@Optimum

there's always an ebb & flow from small distributors, but Optimum has not cut anyone off. Gloss-Coat has never been emphasized by OPT vs the pro coatings. For better or worse, Amazon has become Optimum's major US distributor.

from the description on the opticoat.com site - The new Optimum Hyper™ Compound Revision #5 has the fastest cut while finishing like a polish and works much better than any other compound.

not clear on what you're asking - what revision are you referring to? Intensive Polish slots between Hyper Compound and Hyper Polish.

All Optimum product are compatible - the Optimum Synergy. That does not mean you can mix them willy nilly in any combination. I'm not sure I understand a fear of mixing, many Optimum products require that. Instant Detailer is 1:3 water, easy peasy (and there's no issue combining old formula and new or RTU). As a former marketing person, I can understand the frustration with confusing or less than complete information, but Dr G is a chemist (disregard his MBA) and does things his way. That's why he keeps me around, to explain things. If I had the choice between an honest, ethical scientist who makes excellent products that work, or a high flying BS artist who fills the ether with bogus claims and pretty materials ...well, I made my choice!

I would not layer Hyper Seal and Ultra, but use either/or based on what you want...durability vs slickness. I also think Instant Detailer would provide slickness. May not be what you want to hear, but you can't have it all - products work at cross-purposes - components that offer 1 characteristic reduce another. For instance gloss/slickness chemicals lower durability. That's the reason Optimum created Ultra...for those who feel slickness is more important than longevity.

those products have not been discontinued and Dr G is always tinkering with formulas, but there are no changes imminent.

yes

My understanding is that car can be driven 1 hour after ceramic (Pro, Pro+, Pro3) install IF sealant is applied and 12 hours if not (includes Ultra). Gloss-Coat is 8 hours if sealant is applied. Sealant protects during the 7 day cure time for chemical resistance, when soap is not allowed. Pro3 coats do much more than guarantee coverage, they impart the hardness that allows 3 to be polished or driven through car washes and certainly the lifetime warranty.

Pro3, Pro+, and Hyper Seal...that paint will never die!

Brad, I feel you're overthinking all this. I'm not a Pro installer and don't present myself as one, but I've never had any problem with Gloss-Coat or Hyper Seal other than rare high spots (and streaking with HS), both solved by going back over with a little product on the pad. I'm not sure of the chemistry, but the product causes self-leveling. You make HS sound like a true ceramic coating and while it is a hybrid and has ceramic components, it is not nearly as finicky. I can't speak to Dr Gs thought process on Instant Detailer, but sometimes trying to fix 1 thing (water spots) you create another issue. At least the less odorous IDGE is still available.

you are the master of unanswerable questions...HS can be tacky as it cures, particularly when too much is used (easy to do in that spray bottle). Hyper Seal has a reputation of getting more slick the next day. Not sure what you mean by "super evenly", the goal is even distribution but high spots are rare and easily leveled, either a quick wipe down or apply a 2nd layer. Can't imagine HS causing "damage", I've never had an issue. The Instant Detailer formula was revised to improve it's cleaning, particularly water spot removal, and those chemicals have an obvious odor. FYI, the 32 oz and gallons are the old formula, the old fragrance. I get that slickness and shine are 2 easily identified characteristics, but are so subjective and IMO opinion open to behavioral modification. When I tell neutral observers how glossy a car looks, they see what I see...or want them to see!

First, I agree with your opinion of the sprayer and have passed on to Dr G. I put Hyper Seal into an Opti-Seal bottle and find that corrects the problem. Cure time is 1 hour, but is dependent on variables like temperature, humidity, etc. IMO slickness is hard to quantify and personal. Dr G states that's the least important coating characteristic, at least to him. Ease of use, durability, protection from etching, ability to shed dirt/pollutants, and looks are higher on his list. Durability is another "hard to quantify" value. Under Ideal conditions (garaged car, low driving miles, well maintained in low pollution area, HS not applied as drying aid, etc) Hyper Seal should last 1 year+. Also it's hard to know whether HS is present, particularly because wash products like ONR can perform like sealants short term. We recommend regular application because few cars are in that category, users can be confident they are protected, it takes little product and is do easy to use, and frankly Optimum is in the business to sell Hyper Seal. Every product I'm aware of has tradeoffs - Instant Detailer is not durable for instance. If slickness is important, try Ultra Ceramic Seal, longevity is greater than a wax and it is silky, at least to my insensitive fingers.

think of Paint Prep is more effective IPA

the only polish we recommend is Primer Polish (Hyper Polish) - I can't promise there would be no bonding issues with another brand...and Primer Polish should accomplish a mild paint correction, why risk another?

I understand your confusion and I misspoke, Primer Polish is not an IPA replacement (that's Paint Prep), but you can still apply coating over Primer Polish without wipedown as long as PP residue is minimum.

if necessary an ONR wipe is fine, but you can apply ceramic over Primer Polish

first, since Primer Polish is a replacement for IPA, no wipe down is required before coating. Second, components of Primer Polish can attach to clear coat and not be removed by wiping, similar to the way Optimum sealants used as drying aids are not removed by drying towels.

There ARE solutions to fix your marring, but without changes to your procedure, the damage will return. I asked about clay because it can induce marring. I asked about the wash procedure for the same reason. What's the point to fixing if the problem comes back? You can try Optimum GPS (Glaze/Polish/Seal which is the only Optimum product will filler) or Hyper Polish to remove light marring/spider webs. Nobody said your methods were "awful", but asked questions until you provided a complete explanation, then suggested what are in our opinion, better ways to maintain your car. Preconceived notions are that products/methods used on a 30+ year old vehicle with differing driving conditions would apply to a 2022 car. The technology has improved drastically as have the chemical products, but paint is not as resistant to damage. Opti-Seal is a fine product, but there new options that are harder, more resistant to marring, and more durable. Ultra Ceramic Seal (6 months) and Opti-Coat Hyper Seal (up to 1 year) are harder, more chemical resistant, have greater longevity, and are as easy to apply (wipe on/walk away).

Now that you've filled in your backstory it's easier to understand the issue. It seems you're trying to replicate the car care you inherited on a 30+ year old car on a 2022 model. As Setec and Lowe (2 of the Forums most experienced posters) point out, there's been a huge change in paint technology and car care chemistry. it's even possible the Cadillac didn't have 2 stage paint! Modern clear coats have a wide variety of hardness and it's very likely the softer clear on your Challenger is susceptible to marring from the processes that didn't effect the Cadillac. We've pointed the reason soap, or even better, rinseless washes, are safer that KOZAK or Instant Detailer only. You can "respectfully and demonstrably disagree" but you joined a forum for answers and seem intent on finding fault with those that are contrary to your preconceived notions. One thing I can promise, continue your wash procedures and the spider webbing will multiply. Good Luck!

What he said...

water is a poor lubricant and after dirt/pollution/pollen/etc has accumulated on the PPF/paint, you are dragging it across the surface creating micro-marring. Optimum No Rinse or other car soaps encapsulate the dirt to prevent marring, that's why a soap should be part of your wash process. The question on clay is that it takes time for pollutants to become embedded (clay does not need to be a necessity, but performed when required). Claying frequently causes marring, you're dragging the embedded materials across your film/clear coat, and that's why a good clay lube is critical. FYI, a quick detailer is fine for light cleaning but is not a substitute for a thorough wash with a good car soap.

2 quick questions - what are you washing with and what clay/clay lube...and why?

Welcome to the Optimum Forum, lot's of "New School" technology to make the job easier, with better results!

I promised the Optimum Forum to do a product comparison of Hyper Seal and Ultra Ceramic: Last weekend I washed/detailed 2 cars. The first was washed with ONR (5th revision) and Ultra Ceramic Seal was used as a drying aid. No problems and Ultra went on easily with no streaking. This car had Opti-Coat Pro applied 8+ years ago, but it's still present. The 2nd car washed with ONR V5, then 1/2 had Ultra Ceramic applied as drying aid and the other Hyper Seal (new version). This car has had a graphene coating applied (2 years ago) and has regular Hyper Seal applications. There was no difference in application ease or streaking. Observations - I see no difference in gloss or shine - I used a spotlight and bright sunlight. Truthfully I frequently don't see differences some point out and question the power of suggestion...or could be old eyes? There was a tangible difference in slickness - Ultra was noticeably slicker (made Hyper feel almost grabby in comparison). Both bead water but Ultra's were smaller. Also, when old version Hyper Seal was sprayed on beads, they disintegrate (used to demo that), but the new formula does not. Curious if that's an effect from ceramic components? When Ultra is sprayed on beads they disintegrate/sheet. That might indicate a difference in hydrophobics? I much preferred the Ultra sprayer, allowed better control of product applied. I will monitor which sheds dirt the best and durability (to the best of my ability).

Spray Wax can separate but should mix easily when shaken - should not affect performance. I usually prime my towel with 1-2 sprays, then 1-2 on the paint. When the towel begins to drag I give another 1-2 spritzes.