Ron@Optimum

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Everything posted by Ron@Optimum

  1. and I've found clay towels not only easier to use, but cause less marring.
  2. So far the Memphis training and regional clinics around the US have been Pro oriented - Coatings, polishes, film, etc. With 2 Regional Managers and 1 Film expert, Optimum lacks the manpower to expand training now. As the brand grows, and it is, Dr G will look at doing more extensive training.
  3. Great creativity...and practical experimentation!
  4. I have a BRS that's been in ONR solution all it's life (2+ years now) and is fine. I had a blue prototype that I kept wet until last year, then took it out of solution. It began falling apart shortly after and had to be tossed. Not sure how close the prototype was to final product, but keeping the BRS wet now. I agree with soaking the sponge first, just to infuse it with ONR before use.
  5. Patrick is the Master Distributor for Europe and the person to talk to about product availability and potential training: Contact: Patrick Barkel or Edwin Bolscher - 0031683531545 or 0031612674264 Optimum Car Care Netherlands
  6. Welcome, Red, lot's of great information here...and even better contributors!
  7. There are varying opinions about cure time (surprise). I've had no problem using Wax as drying aid and then applying a separate coat immediately. Some who apply 2 coats of Spray Wax suggest an hour cure time. Heat and humidity have a lot to do with cure time. Two other conditions can cause hazing - applying in direct sunlight and using too much product.
  8. I believe Poli-Seal, GPS, and Finish Polish have similar cut.
  9. Welcome to the party, Wax! Yes, you can add OCW to No Rinse and have an effective No Rinse with Wax lookalike. That is how ONRWW was "invented", people kept playing with the formula and Dr G decided to perfect it. But I can tell you that it's not as simple as that and Dr G and I spent 1 summer working on the formula, blind testing on our cars. Then we had Roberto (Warehouse Supervisor) touch test each application for slickness (he had the most sensitive hands). We rated ease of application, cleaning power, appearance, durability, and slickness, so ONRWW is a ground up product, not simply a hybrid. The rest of the story?
  10. I agree with the idea of skipping the clay unless needed. I can tell you Dr G believes people clay too often and unnecessarily. Power Clean (agree with A&J - 3 to 1 is sufficient) can be an effective decontaminate and better than IPA. The sheer number and variety of pollutants has created specific cleaners for specific needs - FerreX for metal, MDR for mineral, Paint Prep for oils, etc, but Power Clean is an good general purpose cleaner.
  11. And Instant Detailer is excellent to remove bird bombs, bug spatter, sap and other "environmental" stuff that ruins that beautiful red shine...not to mention adding extra gloss!
  12. Everyone has their favorite method to clean and Optimum is not saying the BRS is better than a microfiber mitt or towel or any other wash media. If what you do works for you, then that's the way to go.
  13. Welcome to the Optimum Forum and I'm sure others can weigh in with advice...but in the meantime, if you should get bird bombs or bugs prior to the 7 day cure time, wash off with water and a plush microfiber. You want to avoid solvents for 7 days.
  14. Solvents will not remove Coating, but abrasion does, so any polish (even a cleaner wax) will reduce the coating to some degree.
  15. Setec is exactly right, you do not want to be taking dirt off with your drying towel (the way most marring is done to paint, IMO). Make sure your BRS is soaked and go back over a spot that remains dirty and you should be good.
  16. Your methodology sounds correct - assuming you use Optimum Hyper Polish and do a microfiber wipe down after (IPA is even better). You can apply Gloss-Coat over Opti-Coat Pro with no issues.
  17. Steve, I'm not in the Optimum main office and so can't respond about your letter, but its typical for us to work through international distributors and Netherlands is our lead for Europe. Optimum does make 2 oz sample sizes of many products including ONR, but I don't know if European distributors carry them. We do appreciate your efforts to educate the masses on Optimum products.
  18. I've never had that particular issue and have 2 thoughts - how dirty is the car and are you thoroughly squeezing the BRS (or using a grit guard)? My cars don't get really dirty to test that aspect of the sponge. The BRS tends to collect dirt/grime in it's cuts and it may be you're depositing some back or just not collecting it all. Hopefully someone else will chime in...?
  19. That sounds like a plan!
  20. BigDuke, you're right, as coatings and films have become popular the confusion has grown. Some may be due to the variety of products (coatings and films). For example, Optimum has introduced a film that can be applied over Opti-Coat Pro with no issue. And I know that Expel has been successfully used over OCP as well, but am not aware of what prep have performed. If you polish (compound) the area before application, that should remove enough coating to ensure adhesion. I've also heard that wrapping the film edges improves adhesion (that's from Dr G).
  21. Hyper Seal is a different branded name for Opti-Seal, not a new product.
  22. I think he means Optimum Car Wax (OCW) - can be used as drying aid after a wash. Spray on wet panels before drying and in makes the towel more effective and leaves a wax finish. He's adding Opti-Clean (waterless wash) to Car Wax as a drying aid that also provides extra cleaning power.
  23. I haven't heard of anyone putting film on aircraft but it certainly makes sense. The issue is getting OEM approval. Several years ago I tried to get Boeing to approve Optimum products (Wax, ONR, Seal) on their planes and couldn't fight my way through the bureaucratic gatekeepers .
  24. Paint Prep, Power Clean, even ONR dampened microfiber should remove Wax
  25. Brad, the "experts" have answered your questions better than I could. Two quick comments - waxes and sealants are easy to confuse but not so easy to differentiate. Wax (ours at least) contain carnauba and have a natural aspect. Opti-Seal is all synthetic material. There is a difference in the look (warm, wet look vs hard shell some say), so personal preference matters. And there's a difference in durability, with sealants lasting about twice as long. Second, Optimum has been asked for years about topping Coatings (Pro or retail) and after telling people it wasn't necessary, we finally gave in and told customers they can use any wax/sealant/instant detailer that doesn't contain abrasives. My car was Coated by Yvan for a video, but I use Opti-Seal as a drying aid almost every wash. Whether it's psychological or obsessive, I know it won't last but it's part of my routine. I get to tell new users what products to use and how to use them, and know better than most how close products can be. There are some definite differences in tasks performed and categories filled. Dr G is not into product development just to sell more, but wants to provide a compete line and really tries to improve each segment vs present a "me too" product. For example, Optimum Instant Detailer was something I never used or felt I needed until I got hard water spots on a road trip and found how well it cleaned them up. Then I used it on a car soaked in a storm and found that it cleaned well, left great (if temporary) gloss without marring, and I keep a bottle in the car for spot usage on bugs, bird bombs, etc.