Optimum Finish vs. Polish II


stevehecht

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This is my first post on this forum!

 

Why is Optimum Finish needed in addition to using Polish II if the Polish is adequately broken down by using a white then green pad? What is the extra advantage of using the Finish in addition? Is there a particular advantage for a car with older single stage paint (like mine)? I suppose one advantage of having the Finish product is that it can be used by itself when more swirl removal isn't needed at the time. Why is the Finish advantageous for older paints like the PR says on autogeek.net? Thanks!

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I don't mean this to sound impertinent (sp?), so please do not take it that way.

Polishes polish, therefore, by definition, remove micro layers; and finishes create a barrier, between the freshly polished surface, and the environment that is about to attack it.

If you don't add a finishing product, to create a barrier, the elements will attack your paint like a dousche bag on a stinky clam.

YMMV

 

Semper Fi!

 

E

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I don't mean this to sound impertinent (sp?), so please do not take it that way.

Polishes polish, therefore, by definition, remove micro layers; and finishes create a barrier, between the freshly polished surface, and the environment that is about to attack it.

If you don't add a finishing product, to create a barrier, the elements will attack your paint like a dousche bag on a stinky clam.

YMMV

 

Semper Fi!

 

E

 

Here is what Optimum says about Final Finish:

 

Optimum Finish was developed to create the most reflective finish possible. It will make the paint "POP" and the slickness is second to none. The sub-micron abrasives will correct, but not "over-correct", leaving the paint absolutely perfect. You can buff extensively and the polish will keep cutting if you need more correction.

 

I do not see anything mentioned that creates "barriers". When I see the word barrier, I think of a glaze where something is intentionally left behind on the surface.

 

Final Finish is supposed to "jewel" the paint to by making the surface as smooth (leveling the paint) as possible and this equates to maximum possible gloss and slickness.

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My understanding is that Final Finish is a final finish POLISH, not a sealant. In the Optimum literature on autogeek the Final Finish is compared to Polish II, which is what I was doing. I brought this up on this forum because a gentleman on the autogeek forum made the point that OP II breaks down so well (with the correct use of pads) that he didn't see the need.

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My understanding is that Final Finish is a final finish POLISH, not a sealant. In the Optimum literature on autogeek the Final Finish is compared to Polish II, which is what I was doing. I brought this up on this forum because a gentleman on the autogeek forum made the point that OP II breaks down so well (with the correct use of pads) that he didn't see the need.

 

 

It depends on the individual needs of the detailer. Many may find that Optimum Polish finished out just fine and then others want to take it as far as they can....in terms of gloss and reflection so they may choose a finishing polish such as Optimum or maybe Meguiars, Menzerna or 3M.

 

I believe there is a need for such products but they nay not be needed by everyone.

 

Anthony

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It depends on the individual needs of the detailer. Many may find that Optimum Polish finished out just fine and then others want to take it as far as they can....in terms of gloss and reflection so they may choose a finishing polish such as Optimum or maybe Meguiars, Menzerna or 3M.

 

I believe there is a need for such products but they nay not be needed by everyone.

 

Anthony

 

Thanks Anthony. Another factor might be the nature of my paint. It's a 1990 BMW with single stage paint, black. Your literature on the FF says it's particularly good for black and softer paints. I think I heard that SS paints tend to be softer, but maybe that's for cars older than mine.

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I'm by no means the voice of experience, but I recently used the finsih polish for the first time. It was on my new and generally well cared for black sapphire metallic C30. I didn't need to do any real correction, but after my fall clay session, I wanted something just to enhance my finish. The finish polish was perfect for the job. I followed with 3 layers of opti seal and am one happy camper. I don't know if I would use it after OP II, but suspect I might if I were in a self-indulgent mood and had the time.

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SS paint varies in terms of hardness. SS Porsche paint can be rather hard and a pain to correct but can become a stunning pool of liquid bliss when done correctly. :thumbsupup[1]:

 

I can't remember how SS BMW paint is but I would lean more to the hard side.

 

Anthony

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