Guest Eric Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 How long should we allow to cure? I have had a similar product that did not want any rain or weather to it for 24 hours. Is this the case for OS? How long does it take to dry in average conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Orosco Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 How long should we allow to cure? I have had a similar product that did not want any rain or weather to it for 24 hours. Is this the case for OS? How long does it take to dry in average conditions? If layering the ideal wait time would be 15 to 24 hours BUT I have applied 4 layers one hour apart and it worked perfect. Now as for rain on the surface...that doesn't matter with Optiseal. Optiseal should start to dry right after being applied to paint. Start at one end of a fender and by the time you reach the other end your starting point should be dry. Anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exceldetail Posted May 22, 2007 Share Posted May 22, 2007 How about OS and chrome? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icemang17 Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 One thing I noticed today a couple weeks after I first applied OS....is the paint is still super smooth....much smoother after the same time frame than anything else I have ever used......a damp MF towel just glides accross the surface....very slick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keesue Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 I tried opti-seal and the results are very demonstrable. Opti-seal has out performed anything I have used to date. I was wondering if there was any merit to polycharging, and if so, which one? If this has been asked before my apologies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Orosco Posted August 25, 2007 Share Posted August 25, 2007 I would have no idea about the polycharger but my guess would be that if it did anything it would perhaps be in the way of smaller water beads as that seemed to be the only effect on Zaino CS with added polycharger according to one gentleman who tried it. It didn't seem to do a great deal in terms of added durability. I look at it this way....OptiSeal is so easy to apply that I have no problem with adding a layer every month or so If you try the polycharger let us know your thoughts. Anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keesue Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 I tried opti-seal and the results are very demonstrable. Opti-seal has out performed anything I have used to date. I was wondering if there was any merit to polycharging, and if so, which one? If this has been asked before my apologies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keesue Posted August 26, 2007 Share Posted August 26, 2007 I would have no idea about the polycharger but my guess would be that if it did anything it would perhaps be in the way of smaller water beads as that seemed to be the only effect on Zaino CS with added polycharger according to one gentleman who tried it. It didn't seem to do a great deal in terms of added durability. I look at it this way....OptiSeal is so easy to apply that I have no problem with adding a layer every month or so If you try the polycharger let us know your thoughts. Anthony Point well taken. I'll stick to a more frequent application given its ease of use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted September 20, 2007 Share Posted September 20, 2007 Hello from Scotland. I've been using ONR for a year or so now - I love it and never do traditional washes on my car now. I've just started to use Poli-seal and Opti-Seal which again I love. I have a black/pearl Toyota Corolla D4-D and would like to throw P21s wax into the mix. This is my plan of attack; 1/ Poli-Seal 2/ P21s layer 3/ P21s layer 4/ Opti-Seal Layer 5/ Opti-Seal Layer Is the above reasonable? I'm hoping Opti-Seal will help with the P21s durability as we approach another Scottish winter. replies/suggestions most appreciated. -- Paddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low Tech Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Just found this forum - Already asked this via email, but no response yet... So here goes: I like to use products that work well with each other... both synthetics and carnaubas. That is what attracted me to Opti-Seal. I can use it over either. So... Just applied my first coats of Opti-Seal - OUTSTANDING result!! Thanks for a cool product. Going forward, what is the best QD to use over/with/between Opti-Seal layers? Or will all the usual suspects work well (Pinnacle Crystal Mist, 425, Sonus Spritzes...)? I also understand Opti-seal plays well over Danase WetGlaze (Acrylic based) and Souveran/Carnaubas, so I can make a layer "sandwiches" in the future.... Correct? - But I still want to use a QD that plays well with Opti-Seal. Thanks in advance for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Orosco Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Hello from Scotland. I've been using ONR for a year or so now - I love it and never do traditional washes on my car now. I've just started to use Poli-seal and Opti-Seal which again I love. I have a black/pearl Toyota Corolla D4-D and would like to throw P21s wax into the mix. This is my plan of attack; 1/ Poli-Seal 2/ P21s layer 3/ P21s layer 4/ Opti-Seal Layer 5/ Opti-Seal Layer Is the above reasonable? I'm hoping Opti-Seal will help with the P21s durability as we approach another Scottish winter. replies/suggestions most appreciated. -- Paddy Hello! Thanks for stopping by and I love your beautiful country. For the detailing of your Toyota I would skip the Poli-Seal for Optimum Polish and then use only one layer of P21S. I know there is debate over layering wax and I'm in the camp that it does no good. Wax does not bond to paint but rather lays a micro thin layer on top of the paint. Adding more layers will only remove or replace the first layer as it can't be layered. Give that first wax layer a few hours before applying your first OptiSeal layer, then you can layer OptiSeal about every 5 hours after that initial layer. With the PoliSeal plus the P21S plus the OptiSeal you may run into some smearing/hazing issues which is why I recommend going with the Polish rather than the PoliSeal. Post up some pictures when done and happy detailing Anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Orosco Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Just found this forum - Already asked this via email, but no response yet... So here goes: I like to use products that work well with each other... both synthetics and carnaubas. That is what attracted me to Opti-Seal. I can use it over either. So... Just applied my first coats of Opti-Seal - OUTSTANDING result!! Thanks for a cool product. Going forward, what is the best QD to use over/with/between Opti-Seal layers? Or will all the usual suspects work well (Pinnacle Crystal Mist, 425, Sonus Spritzes...)? I also understand Opti-seal plays well over Danase WetGlaze (Acrylic based) and Souveran/Carnaubas, so I can make a layer "sandwiches" in the future.... Correct? - But I still want to use a QD that plays well with Opti-Seal. Thanks in advance for the advice Hello and welcome to the forum I use Hi-Temps QD for all my cars finished with OptiSeal, PoliSeal or OCW. It's just as good as any overly high priced QD but costs a lot less. Works great, smells great and leaves a nice slick finish. I'm not sure I would use an acrylic QD though on top of OptiSeal....I'm thinking that may cause some issues.....maybe. As for the acrylic Danase product I'm not sure of, or any acrylic product, as I have never used one in conjunction with OptiSeal. I'm one for using OptiSeal all on its own and very rarely do I ever top it, or any other lsp I am applying. About all I do is maybe go over PoliSeal with OCW. Happy to see you like the products and look forward to seeing some pictures of your car when done. Take care, Anthony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low Tech Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Thanks, Anthony! Do you think FK1 425 would work? I also received a suggestion to use ONR 6 ounces per gallon as a QD. Thoughts? Also, I did a search and I can't find and exact match for the Hi-Temp product you described at: http://www.hitempinc.com/polish_wax_seal/. Can you direct me to info/vendor? Also, I took pics on my cell phone, but they really don't do the OS justice. It looked so much better than the cell pics showed! OS is really a product unlike any other I've used. So, imagine this: It's a brand new S63 AMG Black on Black. As a Souveran afficionado, I was pleasantly surprised that a your polymer imparted/preserved so much depth! With all the advances in chemistry, I may use Souveran less and less.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Hello! Thanks for stopping by and I love your beautiful country. For the detailing of your Toyota I would skip the Poli-Seal for Optimum Polish and then use only one layer of P21S. I know there is debate over layering wax and I'm in the camp that it does no good. Wax does not bond to paint but rather lays a micro thin layer on top of the paint. Adding more layers will only remove or replace the first layer as it can't be layered. Give that first wax layer a few hours before applying your first OptiSeal layer, then you can layer OptiSeal about every 5 hours after that initial layer. With the PoliSeal plus the P21S plus the OptiSeal you may run into some smearing/hazing issues which is why I recommend going with the Polish rather than the PoliSeal. Post up some pictures when done and happy detailing Anthony Hi Anthony - thanks for the reply The Toyota is very much a work in process. It's a 2004 that I've had for about two months. The dealer did a great job at hiding the true nature of the paint - did I get a shock when I first washed it. The car had a fair amount of minor scratches, and absolutely covered in holograms. Every weekend for the last two month I've been working on it. Compounded a lot of the minors scratches and wet sanded some deeper ones. I've also scratchX'd the entire car to remove the holograms. So it's getting there The next task is the stone chips on the bonnet. This is the only thing I was aware of when I bought the car. I'm just waiting on the dealer supplying the paint. When I read the above back, it makes me wonder why I bought the car, just goes to show how good some 'filler' products really are. Anyway when it comes to it, I've really enjoyed the effort I've put into it, and now the car is starting to show the benefits of it. -- Paddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARFY Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 hi from Cardiff, just tried o-s but not sure if I've done it correctly. I've tried to keep it thin but maybe gonre to far - should the applicator leave an oily film after wiping fora couple of seconds and glide very easily? The applicator glided but sounded dry on the paint,have I used too little? My car looks shiny but was waxed 2 weeks ago. I think I'll wash and reapply next week to be safe - any tips on the best way to ensure the best saturation of o-s? DouglasDum 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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