Opti-Seal Q&A

[Ron Harris]

GARFY,

 

I usually prim the pad with a couple of squirts. Then apply. It will have a slight film that will evaporate in a few seconds.

I apply two coats around 30 minuets apart. This will ensure full coverage.

[Anthony Orosco]

Lately I've been applying OptiSeal with a soft microfiber towel and completely buffing it into the paint leaving hardly anything to evaporate. This has been working out really nice.

 

Anthony

[GARFY]

Thx both, I think I didnt use enough as my car seems to have lost something.

[bjgross]

Looking for some confirmation for a 1st time OptiSeal user. From this string of posts, it seems like the preferred method for applying OptiSeal using the hand applicator is to:

 

1) Prime the applicator with a couple of spritzes of OPS

2) Then spray the area to be coated

3) Then wipe the area with the applicator, with slightly overlapping passes until the entire area has been wiped with the applicator.

 

Its at this point that I have a question - I have read where you simply wipe it on (I assume back and forth in one direction only) for what I assume is just a couple of passes. Then, moving to the next adjacent untreated area, you wipe on some additional OptiSeal, taking care to slightly overlap the first swath area, repeating this until the entire sprayed area is completed. I have also read some people who say to rub until it disappears.

 

So my question is:

 

1) Do you wipe in on, spreading a thin coat on the entire area, and then let it cure, or do you rub it in until it disappears?

 

2) And if you do rub it until it disappears, do you rub in one small swath, back and forth until it disappears, or after spreading a thin coat on the entire sprayed area, do you then go back and rub each swath area until it disappears?

 

Thanks,

 

BJ

[Bence]

BJ, you're not that empirical, huh?

 

First you have to use the OOS to understand how it will "disappear". With different explanations and interpretation you may slide into misconceptions and the final outcome might be totally different - and this can cause *surprising moments* and in some cases dissatisfaction.

 

So, if you have your bottle of OOS, grab it and hurry to the car armed with a MF or foam applicator and start doing it.

 

OOS will flash VERY quickly. It is thin like water, so it won't pull a grimey film over the surface. No, you don't have to spritz the target area once more if your applicator is already primed. Priming: 2-3 pumps on the app.

Start to apply it. It will discolor the surface, as leaves a rainbow-like trace which fades away almost immediately. If you overapply it, it will evaporate slower, but the final outcome will be the same.

 

You have two choices:

1.) Apply it just like a QD. Wipe it in until disappears. This happens fast.

2.) Just cover the surface and leave it. It will evaporate quickly - so this happens fast too.

 

Try both to know (the basically nonexistent) differences.

 

Optional: you go over the area once again, or you can knock down the heavily applied spots. Done. Really.

 

Applicator reload: when you think that the app doesn't work any more, because you can't see the trace, just slow your arm speed, or hold the app in one place for 3-4 seconds. Lift it up and when you still see the wet spot under it, it lays down a sufficient layer of product. When you move the app really slow, you'll see the faint trace of the OOS behind the applicator. If this trace vanishes, spritz again once. You can push the applicator itself to force more product out of it. Push it, release it and apply further.

 

Cover the entire car. Finished. Final remark: doesn't matter which movements you use, just make sure that you covered the area properly.

[pootoo12000]

I have yet another method. Use a microfiber applicator. It really helps if you pick up one of those "Carrand" applicator handles sold at WalMart, O'Reillys, AZ, etc. Costs about $3-4 and comes with 3 assorted applicators. Very ergonomic! Anyway, spray OS on the pad one time. Begin on the panel with wide circles, to spread the product. Then rub it in, using little to no pressure. Use tight circles, then switch to back and forth, then front to back. The product will virtually disappear. Then move on to the next panel and repeat the process. I have found that this method really spreads the product. The app may seem dry, but it isn't! This stuff spreads much farther than you think! And, you have left a thin, thin coat. Doing it this way, I can do an entire mid-size with about 12 sprays in about 12 minutes. No streaks, nothin' but shine! Interestingly, this method works with other products, too. You can use a cotton app with these others, but I have only used MF with OS and CS. Other stuff that works well this way: OCW, AW, Z8, UQD, FK425, FX100...that's all I can think of at the moment. Never realized there were so many WOWA products!

[Bence]

 

Yes, especially the FX-100 was a kinda-WOWA product even with the normal application procedure. I love it.

 

Of course, QDs, and spray sealants will behave like that.

[bjgross]

Hey Bence,

 

I haven't received my OPS yet (damn, where is that order?), so wanted to have a good idea on the technique for that 1st coat. I think I understand it better now, so thanks for the detailed explanation.

 

BJ

[Bence]

OPS = Optimum Poli-Seal

 

OOS = Optimum Opti-Seal

 

 

I can understand that you are impatient; I'd be excited too!

 

I hope that the explanation was picturesque enough.

 

It is a subjective thing but after using both the OOS and the UPGP I think that the OOS looks better. The Ultima looks wet and classy only from flatter angles, from wher the surface has a nice glow and shimmer, otherwise it is losing something undefinied when the viewing angles start to grow. OOS look excellent from right angles too, so it wins in my book.

[BigHonu]

Hello from a first time Opti-Seal user.

 

First I have to say 'thank you' to the Dr. G and the developers for this product. Very easy to use, and gives an extremely bright and wet/glossy look to my pearl white paint prepped with FK1-215 (an underated AIO IMO). My hope is that it can stand up well to waterspotting and give me a good month or two of good protection.

 

I did notice some streaking after getting to work this morning that I missed removing last night. I gave the streaks a light swipe with my bare finger which didn't have any effect on the appearance of the streaking.

 

By the time I can get home to wipe the car down, it will be at least 24 hours since the OS was applied. Am I stuck with these streaks until my next polishing, or should a QD (I have 425) or a quick wash (ONR) take care of this?

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Brian

[Bence]

Brian, theoretically both the 425 and the ONR should do the work. I've never experienced streaking with OOS, though.

[BigHonu]

Brian, theoretically both the 425 and the ONR should do the work. I've never experienced streaking with OOS, though.

 

 

Bence,

 

Thanks for the response! You have always been a great help to me over on the other board. I'll give the 425 a go later.

 

I hope my post did not imply any shortcomings with the product. I was very impressed with it considering it was my first experience with OOS, I was in a rush (I believe my kids were on my wife's last nerve), and was using it in less than optimal lighting conditions. I thought I had knocked down any spots where I over-applied, but just missed a few areas.

 

Brian

[Bence]

Glad you like the OOS!

 

In bad lighting it is too easy to miss a few high spots, but nothing serious.

 

Keep experimenting Brian and tell me your thoughts!

[BigHonu]

Glad you like the OOS!

 

In bad lighting it is too easy to miss a few high spots, but nothing serious.

 

Keep experimenting Brian and tell me your thoughts!

 

 

The 425 worked out great, so I didn't bother mixing up some ONR QD. Wiped off with the first swipe.

[Bence]

Great!