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Poli Seal


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#1 Justin B

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 03:35 PM

Hi, I'm new here and just picked up a gallon of poli seal for one stepping customer's cars. I understand the product pretty good, but just had 3 questions.

What is the "Seal" part? Carnauba, sealant, or a mixture of both? Are there toppers that aren't compatible with it?

What should I expect as far as how much defect removal it can take out via PC? About in line with OP?

In the 4" Edge cyclo pads, would you guys *generally* recommend the green pad?

#2 Anthony Orosco

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 03:44 PM

:thumbsupup[1]:-->
QUOTE(Justin B @ May 1 2007, 03:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi, I'm new here and just picked up a gallon of poli seal for one stepping customer's cars. I understand the product pretty good, but just had 3 questions.

What is the "Seal" part? Carnauba, sealant, or a mixture of both? Are there toppers that aren't compatible with it?

What should I expect as far as how much defect removal it can take out via PC? About in line with OP?

In the 4" Edge cyclo pads, would you guys *generally* recommend the green pad?[/quote]


Hello Justin and welcome to our forums :D

Poli-Seal provides a polymer finish and it provides a finish closer to that of Menzerna FPII but with the added benefit of protection. OP is more aggressive than PoliSeal.

With the Cyclo pads I only use white and orange. I don't see much of a need for the green pads personally.

Hope that helps,
Anthony
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#3 Justin B

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Posted 01 May 2007 - 05:03 PM

Thanks Anthony. So you don't even use the Edge 2K yellow 4"? I have the white, grn, yellow, and org, and boy that org feels aggressive! hehe So I assume by polymer, that PS has no carnauba in it?

EDIT: so are you saying you only use the org/wht with PS? or in general? Do you find you can use PS with the org to remove a bit more defects and then follow up with the wht? or do you strictly use PS as a last step always with the wht pad? (which i might ad is amazingly soft!)

#4 Ron Harris

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 04:38 PM

:thumbsupup[1]:-->
QUOTE(Justin B @ May 1 2007, 06:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks Anthony. So you don't even use the Edge 2K yellow 4"? I have the white, grn, yellow, and org, and boy that org feels aggressive! hehe So I assume by polymer, that PS has no carnauba in it?

EDIT: so are you saying you only use the org/wht with PS? or in general? Do you find you can use PS with the org to remove a bit more defects and then follow up with the wht? or do you strictly use PS as a last step always with the wht pad? (which i might ad is amazingly soft!)[/quote]

Justin welcome.
You can expect light correcting with the Poli-Seal. It is ok to usr the
Orange pads with the Opti-Seal. It may seam alittle agressive but it's not.
You will have to give it a try on a test panel if your not sure.

Opti-Seal has Carnuba and a Sealant as well.

Dont use to much. It may seam like your not useing enough because the product acts like it is melting into the finish.
It wont dust up or leave a lot of hazing to be wiped off.

Good Luck.

Ron
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#5 DennisH

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 07:17 PM

View PostRon Harris, on May 2 2007, 05:38 PM, said:

Opti-Seal has Carnuba and a Sealant as well.

Ron

Are you saying that Opti-Seal has Carnuba or did you mean Poli-Seal?
Dennis

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#6 Ron Harris

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Posted 02 May 2007 - 09:30 PM

Sorry :thumbsupup[1]: Poli-Seal
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#7 Justin B

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Posted 03 May 2007 - 07:01 AM

View PostRon Harris, on May 2 2007, 05:38 PM, said:

:D--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Justin B @ May 1 2007, 06:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Thanks Anthony. So you don't even use the Edge 2K yellow 4"? I have the white, grn, yellow, and org, and boy that org feels aggressive! hehe So I assume by polymer, that PS has no carnauba in it?

EDIT: so are you saying you only use the org/wht with PS? or in general? Do you find you can use PS with the org to remove a bit more defects and then follow up with the wht? or do you strictly use PS as a last step always with the wht pad? (which i might ad is amazingly soft!)

Justin welcome.
You can expect light correcting with the Poli-Seal. It is ok to usr the
Orange pads with the Opti-Seal. It may seam alittle agressive but it's not.
You will have to give it a try on a test panel if your not sure.

Opti-Seal has Carnuba and a Sealant as well.

Dont use to much. It may seam like your not useing enough because the product acts like it is melting into the finish.
It wont dust up or leave a lot of hazing to be wiped off.

Good Luck.

Ron


Thanks for the welcome Ron! I don't have the poli seal yet, it's on the way to me, but so far, I'm loving the OC/OP combo on my yellow/grn edge 2K cyclo pads (on my PC). The OC/yellow finished pretty nicely on a car I did last night. Good stuff! I've also got a bottle of opti seal on it's way with the gallon of poli seal. I guess my supplies are now 85%+ optimum. hehe :thumbsupup[1]:

#8 Woob

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 06:17 AM

How fast can you work PoliSeal? Is it more of a glaze kind of work, apply slightly heavy and relatively moderate speed? It definitely just melts into the paint. I run a few passes on my PC @ 5 and just leave it.

#9 Anthony Orosco

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:06 AM

PoliSeal is designed to be pretty much invisible when working with so when applying you'll want to use it just like you would the Optimum Polish.....to start maybe a quarter size drop and from then on about a nickel size drop. If you're doing a larger size panel then you may need a bit more or better yet break it up into sections so as to ensure complete coverage.

Anthony
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#10 Justin B

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 11:55 AM

Anthony, do you find that PS's protection lasts pretty good? I'm planning on light one stepping a few cars next week and wonder what to expect? Course I could always OCW it in 10 min and have added protection, but they aren't paying for that, lol. :thumbsupup[1]:

#11 Anthony Orosco

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 08:54 PM

I fully understand that :thumbsupup[1]:


You should expect around 3 months of protection. Post up some pics also!

Anthony
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#12 Justin B

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Posted 04 May 2007 - 09:38 PM

Thanks Anthony, will do on the pics.

#13 Junebug

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Posted 05 June 2007 - 10:40 AM

I tried Poliseal on a blue Edge 8" pad on my Makita - worked well but I used a good deal more than a couple of dabs on the pad. I found that if I did a thin line around the pad ( about a 6" circle) it worked (no hop or grab from the pad). I was pulling a lot of black gummy crud off the pad and wiping off the paint if I didn't use my pad brush after ever other panel. Maybe this would have better if I used my PC?

#14 ehall

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Posted 08 June 2007 - 12:05 PM

View PostJunebug, on Jun 5 2007, 12:40 PM, said:

I tried Poliseal on a blue Edge 8" pad on my Makita - worked well but I used a good deal more than a couple of dabs on the pad. I found that if I did a thin line around the pad ( about a 6" circle) it worked (no hop or grab from the pad). I was pulling a lot of black gummy crud off the pad and wiping off the paint if I didn't use my pad brush after ever other panel. Maybe this would have better if I used my PC?
I use my cyclo with poli-seal, so yes, I think you might find it easier to use your PC. I'm not familiar with the Makita blue pad, so I can't comment on it's aggressiveness. I use either a cyclo green or white pad when applying poli-seal. If using the green, it's because I looking to get a slight bit of additional polishing before going to a finishing white pad, also with poli-seal. After that I apply all of my waxes (OCW and TOL) by hand.
Keep in mind that the poli-seal does have just a tiny bit of cutting capability. With a slightly aggressivepad it will act like a really fine polish. When using the green pad, I expect to see what you describe above, but I won't see that with the white cyclo pad.
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