17 replies to this topic

[Redwing]

I'm looking for a "better" AIO product to use on vehicles that I wish to provide some mild cleaning and protection via hand application. In the past I just used over the counter cleaner waxes/sealants. These are "low" priority vehicles that will probably never get a full, proper detailing, but I want to do something to keep them in reasonable condition.

Many forums have compared Poli-seal with Klaase AIO as the benchmark.

1. Like Klaase AIO, is Poli-seal plastic safe and will it not stain plastic trim.

2. Does Poli-seal contain chemical cleaners like Klaase?

3. Does Poli-seal leave residue or dusting in crevices around decals, plastic trim, emblems, etc.?

4. Is Poli-seal safe over vinyl (?) emblems, decals, etc.?

5. With hand use, the abrasive polish effect of PS will not be met and some say that it will fill minor defects. Is this filling effect bad in the long run. Would it build up and become cloudy.

6. How do you think the carnuba based Poli-Seal will stack up to Zaino AIO, a polymer product I presume?


Would Poli-seal replace and be better than an over the counter cleaner wax/sealnt (even NuFinish) as a stand alone product to be used with nothing else?....For the casual car care enthusiast? Again, I am looking for an easy to use product to provide cleaning and protection, not so much correction.

Thanks for any opinions.

[Chris Thomas]

1. Like Klaase AIO, is Poli-seal plastic safe and will it not stain plastic trim.

I've used both. PS is much easier.

2. Does Poli-seal contain chemical cleaners like Klaase?

It cleans, corrects and protects

3. Does Poli-seal leave residue or dusting in crevices around decals, plastic trim, emblems, etc.?

NO dusting, works out to be almost invisible, I buff off with OCW (no effort), I do the whole exterior with it: headlights, windows, trim, etc. I even did a black truck bed toolbox with it (black rubber coating)

4. Is Poli-seal safe over vinyl (?) emblems, decals, etc.?

never tried it on vinyl, works great on chrome and decals. I did use it on some leather boots this week to get a scuff off and it did good.

5. With hand use, the abrasive polish effect of PS will not be met and some say that it will fill minor defects. Is this filling effect bad in the long run. Would it build up and become cloudy.

dont bother using it by hand. the ppl that say it fills are full of schnike. its not abrasive enuff to expect anything by hand.

6. How do you think the carnuba based Poli-Seal will stack up to Zaino AIO, a polymer product I presume?

I get consistantly 4 months in TN weather on my customers vehicles. I never used Zaino but its as good or better that KAIO and MUCH easier to apply and remove.

[Redwing]

Thank you. I was hoping someone who used it would chime in. Sounds like a great product.

By vinyl emblem, I wasn't referring to vinyl seats, but "decals" (ie, 4 x4 ) that appear to be a thick vinyl material.

For the non-professional, would the Poli-seal work by hand, the same way we apply OTC products like Turtle Wax or whatever. Or, has the product been tweaked to only be applied by machine?

Thanks.

[Chris Thomas]

Redwing, on Jul 25 2008, 07:45 AM, said:

Thank you. I was hoping someone who used it would chime in. Sounds like a great product.

By vinyl emblem, I wasn't referring to vinyl seats, but "decals" (ie, 4 x4 ) that appear to be a thick vinyl material.

For the non-professional, would the Poli-seal work by hand, the same way we apply OTC products like Turtle Wax or whatever. Or, has the product been tweaked to only be applied by machine?

Thanks.

In will work just fine by hand, but you'll waste a lot because you only need a small amount on a pad to go a long way. And a PC is only like $95 bucks and the only way you could hurt the paint with it is if you dropped it on the surface. It will your time in half and do a better job, trust me.

[dublifecrisis]

my neighbor strolled over this weekend after washing his wifes MDX. He basically asked for something he could use without a machine cuz he wanted just a quick deal. I handed him a white lake country oval shaped hand polishing pad and the Poli-seal. He came back and was raving about the poli-seal.

My white foam polish pad was now brown. oh well, (MDX is pearl white BTW) so I guess the cleaner in the poli-seal worked well. Looking at the MDX after 2 days of heavy rain and it looks fantastic.

never used KAIO-but I love poli-seal

[pwaug]

dublifecrisis, on Jul 28 2008, 03:43 PM, said:

I handed him a white lake country oval shaped hand polishing pad and the Poli-seal.

Where can I find one of these??

[talex26]

pwaug, on Jul 28 2008, 04:41 PM, said:

Where can I find one of these??

Here:

http://www.autogeek....pplicators.html

or just google 'lake country hand pad' and more sources will come up.

[dublifecrisis]

yeah I picked up a little kit from AG which had a white, orange, and red. Great for working by hand or use on spoilers, lower plastic pieces etc.

[talex26]

OK after much advice here to get a PC 7424 I'm taking the plunge. I'll be using it for Poli-Seal and have a few questions regarding pads and technique.

First off I trust the polishing pad #54745 that comes with it is ample for the job so I need not invest in another polishing pad. What do you guys think?

Next when taking off the Poli-Seal would it be best to remove it by hand with a microfiber towel or is it better to remove it by machine for a higher shine? And if a higher shine is attainable by machine what kind of pad should I use? A foam finishing pad or a microfiber bonnet or ???.

I read elsewhere that removing by hand and then going back over the entire car and buffing it with a MF bonnet on the PC is really good. I value the opinion on this forum so what do you guys think about that?

Also what PC speed is recommended and what technique should and use for applying and how long should I work the product? Should I do small sections or complete panels? Thanks of any advice as I have never used a PC before.

I'll be topping the PS with OS, then OID and maybe some OCW.

Thanks

[Chris Thomas]

The pad that comes with it should go straight in the trash. LC CCS 5.5 pads in orange, white, and gray will get you started. You'll need a velcro backing plate too. Those pads are about 7-9 bucks each and the backing plate will be about 15-20. You may find some Meg's Soft Buff pads locally but I highly advise the 5.5 inch and no bigger for the PC.

As far as removing the PS, you will not need a bonnet or elbow grease. It's residue when applied by machine is almost invisible and can be removed as you buff in the OCW to top it, thus saving a step and more time.

Work time is up to you. If you are trying to correct some light swirls make 2-3 passes, if you just want protection then you only need to apply an even coat w/o having to work it in. You'll use speed 5-6 for correction and 2-3 for just applying stuff.

[Bence]

I'd save the original pad for glass duty.

[talex26]

integritydetail, on Aug 20 2008, 11:30 PM, said:

The pad that comes with it should go straight in the trash. LC CCS 5.5 pads in orange, white, and gray will get you started. You'll need a velcro backing plate too. Those pads are about 7-9 bucks each and the backing plate will be about 15-20. You may find some Meg's Soft Buff pads locally but I highly advise the 5.5 inch and no bigger for the PC.

As far as removing the PS, you will not need a bonnet or elbow grease. It's residue when applied by machine is almost invisible and can be removed as you buff in the OCW to top it, thus saving a step and more time.

Work time is up to you. If you are trying to correct some light swirls make 2-3 passes, if you just want protection then you only need to apply an even coat w/o having to work it in. You'll use speed 5-6 for correction and 2-3 for just applying stuff.

The PC I'm buying comes with a Lake Country 6" hook & loop contour backing pad and a 5' and a 6" counterweight. That backing plate will work with the 5.5 pads right? And why do I need 3 different pads. My paint is in good condition and is silver metallic so nothing shows on it anyway. So one polishing pad should do it for Poli-Seal alone correct? And what is wrong with the polishing pad that comes with it for now? I understand that as a detailer you have preferences but I'm just going to buff twice a year while adding OS and Maintaining products monthly. Is there a compelling reason for me to buy another pad?

And which counter weight should I use should I opt to use the 6" backing plate and the 5.5 pad?

BTW even though my paint is in good condition visually (remember silver like you have) I'm going to assume there are some minor defects and will make 2-3 passes at speeds 5 0r 6 as you recommend, can't hurt. If anything it may improve the base shine.

Thanks for your advice once again ID.

[talex26]

Bence, on Aug 21 2008, 07:58 AM, said:

I'd save the original pad for glass duty.

That's a good idea. Although living in Souther California bugs are not a problem and I avoid parking under trees so no tree sap. Window cleaning with ONR in a bottle or Sprayway and a MF keeps the glass clean and crystal clear. ONR is a great streak free window cleaning solution.

I read where some detailers are using the original pad as a base for a MF bonnet to make a polishing pass over the polish after applying and wiping it off to enhance the shine prior to applying the LSP. I guess the are actually burnishing the polish. What do you think about that?

[Chris Thomas]

Bence, on Aug 21 2008, 09:58 AM, said:

I'd save the original pad for glass duty.

That is an excellent idea, however I have the edge system on my Cyclo and usually leave the velcro backing plat on my PC. I'd hate to take the time to switch to the screw on type, but I suppose it could be kept as a just in case deal.

[Bence]

talex, you can actually remove the polish with the MF bonnet. If you are using OCW you can spritz the bonnet with it, then work it in with the machine until it's gone. Alternatively you can use a fine finishing or finessing pad.