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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Heijneker

    Power Clean Testing

    Of course Optimum stated that Optimum Power Clean (OPC) should be used diluted on paint, and not be used on glass. They also say it should be rinsed off thoroughly, preferably with running water. I would suggest you follow the instructions on the bottle. However, because my own car is a... ahum... suitable test subject, I would like to test the product for myself. So, if someone would like to make a suggestion for things to try, please let me know! Somewhere down the line I would like to test this more professionaly, but for now, i'm just fooling around. Concerning the weather; I live in the Netherlands, near Amsterdam (No, not all places in the Netherlands are near Amsterdam, before someone makes that joke) My car is red, with some panels having parts without clear coat 🙂 Things I have tried so far: - OPC 3:1 sprayed onto glass, left to dry completely (Even driven it with it on the windshield) and left to sit for an hour in the sun (16 C). NO etching has occured. Stains did not come off with a dry MF towel. Stains did come off with a Damp towel, but with a lot of effort. Stains came off more easily with ONR at 32:1 in a spray bottle and a dry towel. There was always a slight oily haze on the window. I seem to get that with ONR as well, but slightly less visible. - OPC 3:1 sprayed on to paint, left to dry completely and left to sit for A DAY, in cool temperatures, overcast, and slightly raining sometimes. Stains did not come off completely with a dry MF Towel, or a damp one. I did not try ONR at a stronger dilution. I applied OPC at 3:1 and left to dwell for 30 seconds. I then dried with a dry MF Towel and stains were gone. So, no stains or etching of any kind. - OPC 3:1 sprayed onto vinyl, left to dry completely. Stains came off mostly with a dry MF towel. Completely with ONR at 32:1 and a damp towel. - OPC sprayed onto vinyl, left to dry completely. Stains only came off after applying OPC again and left to dwell for 30 seconds and cleaned off with a dry MF Towel. This took 3 hits to remove the stains completely. Things I'm trying right now: - OPC 3:1 sprayed on paint, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC 3:1 Sprayed onto Glass, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC 3:1 Foamed onto paint, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC 3:1 Sprayed onto vinyl , left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC Sprayed onto glass, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC Sprayed onto paint, left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. - OPC Sprayed onto vinyl , left to dry in the hot sun for multiple hours. Things I want to try: - Removing OPC (3:1) with Opti Clean (on glass) - Removing OPC (3:1 with OPT Glass Cleaner and Protect (on glass) Things I have found so far: - OPC leaves the paint feeling SOOOOOOOOOOOOO nice and clean. - OPC seems to be very easy to completely remove with just a dry MF towel, followed up with a regular wash. - OPC is safe to use on glass (But, I haven't tried it yet it scorching temperatures) - OPC (3:1) hasn't caused me any issues regarding staining the rims on my car (OZ Superturismo, love them haha) So, as stated before, in the future I would like to test this more proffessionaly/thoroughly/clearly. Please let me know what you would like me to test further.
  2. 2 points
    A&J

    Rinseless prep wash for Polish?

    Just skip the power clean and ferrex step if you cant use free flowing water and just ONR the vehicle and move to clay towel. Then use paint prep prior to polishing. A good 1step is Intensive polish on a light cutting pad. Obviously it depends on the type of paint or color and the ammount of bonded contaminants but you can skip a lot by just doing a ONR wash and clay before you go polish the paint!
  3. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    Guys....I am speechless now 🙊 Thank you I just like helping out and dont expect anything in return. These kind words are enough for me!
  4. 1 point
    LostVulpine

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    I'd just like to add the only reason I use OPT products was because of A&J and Lowejackson and the posts they made on a UK based detailing forum. As mentioned in my introduction due to health issues the whole snow foaming, rinsing, 2 bucket method, etc. was not an option so without them and their posts I would probably have a very dirty car and also miss out on the quiet time I get when I get to clean my car (which is usually needed!). They are both a real asset to your brand.
  5. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    I fully support any application by A&J. For many years across different forums he has provided support and advice to many people on OPT products. Additionally, his willingness to test all sorts of OPT products in different combinations and publish the results is always impressive. If there was such a thing as a brand ambassador, A&J would do a great job.
  6. 1 point
    Opti-Glass Pro is formulated not only to deal with abrasion, but to bond to glass (each surface material has it's own bonding issues), so whenever possible it should be used. Glass Pro and Paint Guard are comparable durability. You can order Optimum AND Opti-Coat products from opticoat.com - there's a straight $45 shipping charge for Canada.
  7. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    found some info I stole from Dr G several years ago (I'm a packrat with info): ONR vs Opti-Clean – No Rinse used as a quick detailer works fine for a car with light dust while Opti-Clean can be used on a car with several days of build up. The reason is that Opti-Clean contains the same polymers in No Rinse that encapsulate dirt but at a much higher concentration than No Rinse QD as well as other polymers not used in No rinse that offer more lubricity and gloss. Based on the chemistry of these products (Opti-Clean, No rinse, Instant Detailer), there should be no bonding issues or affects on the longevity of waxes or sealants when you use these products before or after application of waxes or sealants. The protective film these products leave behind is dissolved and removed by the chemical solvents and abrasives used in waxes or sealants. None of these products contain detergents or solvents to remove waxes or sealants and therefore they only add protection not remove them. While both of these products are pH neutral, Opti-Clean contains much higher levels of polymers than No Rinse as well as some new polymers that we developed for this type of application. The added polymers are necessary to compensate for using a fraction of the water as compared to a regular No Rinse wash. You do get some level of UV protection from the reflection effects as well as some sacrificial UV protection (the polymers breaking down rather than the paint). But for UV protection, you need specific compounds designed to block UV light. The main product we offer for exterior application that provides the most UV protection is Optimum Car Wax which contains these specific chemicals to block UV light.
  8. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    OPTI CLEAN AS A RINSELESS WASH I actually did it and tried to use Opti-clean in a bucket of water like I do use ONR and long story short its not that bad...but lets start this at the beginning shall we! THE SETUP: I used a 1 bucket and 2 gallons (7,4L) of water for each wash. Each bucket had a grit guard and a sponge...same exact sponge (one is just older and more used up then the other one), later I also tried to use a microfiber noodle wash mitt. As for pre-spray I used the mix in the buckets. So ONR was diluted at its standard 1:256 so 30ml in 2 gallons and with Opti clean I varied. I started with 15ml then tested it, then added another 15ml, tested it and another 15ml so total 45ml. I also emptied the pre-spray bottle and filled up accordingly to what was mixed in the buckets. THE CAR: I used it on my Renault Grand Scenic which being my car is very well maintained as you can imagine. It gets its no-rinse wash almost every week. It wasn’t dirty but the rain from the last couple of days got it lightly soiled. I also partially washed my wifes car which is a Renault Clio which gets washed and waxed about once a month. It too was lightly soiled from the rain…both cars got washed at the same time (4 days ago) its just my wife driver further to get to her job then I do. RESULTS: Using Opti clean as a rinseless wash: - At 15ml the mixed solution feels like washing with water or similar to ONR. I did pre spray the solution on the panel and then used the wash solution soaked sponge to clean the panel. I used those cheap short nap mf towel to dry and check for dirt but I didn’t find any. o + it cleaned well with no apparent dirt left behind o – it doesn’t feel lubricated - At 30ml the mixed solution feels kinda still the same and not overly lubricated but it is similar to ONR now (now even ONR isn’t the most lubricated product to begin with compared to other companies rinseless washes like Feynlab pure rinseless or Carpro Echo for example). I did wash a part of my wifes car which was on the sun and found it left behind some sort of hazing (see picture bellow) which was later removed with the ONR solution. Note that that hazing was very minor and hard to notice. I did however notice the paint felt very slick once I washed the residue with ONR so clearly the polymers from Opti clean were left behind. That’s awesome. BTW I did not notice any residue or smearing on my car so maybe it was just left on my wifes car (to tell you the truth that paint is finicky and hard to finish perfectly without something showing behind like wax residue, polish or something else…) o + slick and protected finish o – still not lubricated enough. o – may leave behind some residue but probably only on finicky paint - At 45 ml the mixed solution instantly feels slick slick under the sponge. The polymers quickly disperse water on the protected paint and washing with it feels really satisfying and safe. The after washed panels actually look shiny and very clean and I cannot say anything bad with this mix. The only difference now is that we need to use 50% more product then with ONR. The paint afterwards feels quite slick to the touch. I also think that if I sprayed water on it it would sheet much faster due to the leftover polymers. I didn’t notice any major streaking even on my wifes car. o + it feels very lubricated and safe while washing o + it leaves behind a slick and protected surface due to the leftover polymers o + it leaves behind a glossy surface o – you use 50% more product to get these awesome results compared to say ONRWW - And at the end I just dumped all that 45ml leftover mixed solution to the ONR mix and washed the rest and that was the most lubricated and slick feel till now (duh…obviously). Everything (polymers) just added up and the wash really felt super and slick and lubricated and safe and awesome and all those superlatives we love to hear… FINAL VERDICT Can Opti-clean be used as a rinseless wash??? I say YES without a doubt. It works OK at 1:256 ratio but its great at 1:165. It feels really slick and safe to use and I wouldn’t mind using it that way. But cost wise it is more expensive to use Opti clean that way since both products (950ml bottles of ONR and Opti-clean at the Rag company) are similarly priced. If nothing else you could use Opti-clean at a 1:165 mix for a pre-spray and then do a ONR wash. That way you get a stronger pre-spray for more soiled cars while still not using up too much product and still a cheaper ONR wash. Dry with opti-seal and the car will be beading like crazy.
  9. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-clean as a rinseless wash?

    I might give this test a go. My ussual wash consists of 2 gallons of water and 30ml (2 caps) of ONR...so I might compare Opti clean to ONR. Ill compare Opti clean mixed at: - 15ml (1cap) in 2 gallons of water - 30ml (2 caps) in 2 gallons of water - 45ml (3 caps) in 2 gallons of water... ...and see how effective it is! Ill report here! BTW Ron if OPT needs a man to do some crazy testing I wouldnt mind a new job and employer 😉
  10. 1 point
    one thought, you might consider using Hyper Seal in place of Opti-Seal. Hyper Seal will withstand several Power Clean washes, particularly diluted Power Clean, and should provide better long term protection.
  11. 1 point
    Personally, I will do prewash with OPC at 1:5 dilution ratio every 2-3 months but the mileage I put on my car is substantially less than you. If you are going to do a weekly OPC prewash, I would definitely use a higher dilution ratio which might not completely remove the Opti-Seal LSP. Ideally it should be at 1:10 (or higher) dilution ratio to minimize removal of polymer based LSP like Opti-Seal. If you are typically storing your RTU OPC at 1:3 dilution ratio then add to 2 parts water with your RTU solution (1:3 plus two additional equal parts water at 0:4) would result in final dilution ratio 1:11. Experiment to see if this solution is strong enough for your typical weekly contamination and adjust if needed (either higher or lower).
  12. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti coat pro plus got wet

    Opti-Coat Pro Plus can get wet 12 hours after coating, you should be good.
  13. 1 point
    Heijneker

    Power Clean Testing

    Concerning all the things I was trying "Right now" in my first post, I have noticed no ill effects!! Even on the vinyl, Power Clean straight has left no permanent marks. I also got my gallon in!!! 🤗 Next up; Opti Clean and glass cleaner! Soon to be followed by MDR, Ferrex, the clay mitt and the polishing line; pads and liquids!!! SO EXCITED! So I got to try Surfex HD today. I diluted it 1:4 with distilled water, and got similar foam to OPC at 1:3 with tap water. Performance was similar, got to try it out on a REALLY dirty car haha. And I mean really dirty. Hadn't been cleaned in a year or so and covered probably 30.000 km's. Sadly I used all my ONR 1:16 neutralizing the Surfex on the Frontal Area, so could only use the Surfex on the wheels, not on the sides. ONR Got the huge amounts of grey road film off of the sides no problem though, it just took a couple of passes with the BRS near the bottom of the sides (I didn't pre-spray, haha oops). The ONR solution kept working great, even when it was looking like a black hole in the bucket lol. Was it safe? I can't imagine it was, but the car will be sold for scrap value. It was a relatively new car though, solid black, and it looked pretty nice afterwards, pretty clean at least ("Needed" a full on decon and multi-stage polishing 'of course', but still). I digress.... Surfex softened up the dirt on the front nicely, even though there was NO bug residue. There were some baked on bird droppings. No problem. got nice and soft. ONR 1:16 also neutralized it just fine. Sadly, I seemed to have gotten some overspray on the roof that dried (not completely sure though, could have been there before as well), which I couldn't get off with my regular ONR wash. Front window got squeeky clean. My hands do seem to feel different after Surfex as opposed to Power Clean. Just not as nice and indeed slight burning after a few hours. I don't understand these Youtube Detailers just spraying Super Clean degreaser all over the interior. God, that must be horrible! More testing to do of course (I got 5 liters of the stuff.....), but I'm 99% sure I won't be buying it again after this order. Power Clean is already pretty cheap, costing me €0,40 - €1 for a wash and safer for me. Plus I'm an official OPT fanboy, so I feel it works better as well. OPC IMO for sure does a better job on tar/baked on brake dust!!
  14. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti Coat No Rinse 16oz

    different bottles, different caps - dilution ratio is the same
  15. 1 point
    darrvao777

    Power Clean Testing

    i love power clean, so versatile to clean tires/wheels/engine bays/bugs/tar and somehow gentle enough (and effective) for interiors too! i know it’s blasphemy around here but if i had to select a favorite optimum product, i might rank power clean slightly above onr 🙂 foaming is fun and i love the foam it creates out of a foam cannon and the ik foamers. but for control, my default is still power clean diluted 1:3 in a spray bottle
  16. 1 point
    Heijneker

    Hello from Pittsburgh

    Looking very good, Travis!! Some good tips from Habs!
  17. 1 point
    Travis94

    Hello from Pittsburgh

    Was able to get a better look outside today. Found 2 high spots on the bottom of the tailgate. I don't have any plans on fixing those...light has to be just right to see them. Also uploaded a video showing the hydrophobic/shedding performance:
  18. 1 point
    Habs

    Hello from Pittsburgh

    Amazing Yes the polish is easy to use I also only had to make only a few passes my car was 5 years old when I got it but it was covered in honda vinyl advertising that was very thick when pulled off the paint was practically new . Just used there hyper seal very nice
  19. 1 point
    Habs

    Hello from Pittsburgh

    That's a big truck I don't think gloss coat is for glass. I think you will be short product for all that . I would do the roof with the gloss coat and keep it all the same so if you top of with other products it will all look the same in my case i park out side and my roof collects a lot if dirt and bird bomb's plus it gets pounded by the sun the car is a 2008 so you can see the roof has faded more than the sides also I have done some repainting they did a good job but it still shows up after gloss coated . You can find picks of my car on hear some were. Ithink you need another 10cc maybe some one will make suggestion. If I was going to take a short cut I would use hyperseal I just did it looks and sheets water just like gloss coat just doesn't last as long Good luck have fun