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  1. 2 points
    Habs

    optimum carpet and fabric cleaner

    wow after cleaning one just had to take pic these are the headrest of my 2008 honda element used ik foamer 50/50 with distilled water then scrubbed with carpet brush on my orbital then used just a cheap carpet estractor from canadian tire used to much soap at first then got the hang of it did seats and floor very happy
  2. 1 point
    Optimum has a high standard on one of the only true permanent coatings. It's like painting a car. The prep must be done in a specific way using specific products. If skipped, the coating will not perform properly or hold up long term. I believe the other coatings don't say, use our products, because most are not permanent nor perform as well as pro and plus.
  3. 1 point
    I waited to add my 2 cents and am glad I did - great responses! Gloss-Coat can be layered and due to it's hybrid nature, will bond. It would need to be polished off IF you wanted to apply Opti-Coat Pro. I agree you don't need Power Clean for prep at this point, ONR/Paint Prep is adequate. And I'm not sure you need to add a second coat - while your prime may have been light, 8-9 ccs is more than enough to coat a 6 series. Unfortunately there's no easy way to test your coverage. For total confidence, another coat is inexpensive.
  4. 1 point
    Tug Bankert

    Uneventful Gloss Coat experience

    Pure power clean, yes. Or clay and ferrex
  5. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Add MDR to ONR Solution

    I've never seen any mention of adding MDR to ONR, nor has Optimum tested that combo. As to why ONR is not better removing water spots, it's an encapsulator/remover not a dissolver. The minerals in water spots need to be dissolved for mar free removal.
  6. 1 point
    No Soap

    Optimum Car Wash

    Wheels get cleaned with a soft brush and ONR and Wheel cleaner, now and then. I don't understand why people get crazy over new stuff when ONR still performs like a beast!?
  7. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Car Wash

    I'd try the soap and the new Opti-Coat M-Wash, but I don't remember where my hose is...sad?
  8. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum clear coat restorer

    Tug is correct - I always remind people, Clear Coat Restorer is a restorer not a replacer - won't replace missing clear coat.
  9. 1 point
    Habs

    Habs

    Honda element gloss coat waiting to put wax on I think the paint prep is your best product It makes it so easy the gloss coat just flows on did not get any really high spots used the glove and shop towel method I did take 5 hours of prep work though lol Very happy thanks every body for answering all my questions on this form
  10. 1 point
    Ozzcaddy

    G'day from Down Under

    G'day Guys, I am retired and reside in the inner suburbs of Sydney, Australia, and have begun following the Optimum forum since I had my new Hyundai Tucson coated with Opti-Coat Pro+ 12 months ago this month, by the Opti-Coat boys in my suburb. I have a good relationship with the Australian Distributor (ZAS) for Optimum products who is also in my area. Prior to the Hyundai, I had a 1999 Toyota Camry V6 Station wagon, which is where I began using Optimum products on. I found out about Optimum and its products from various YouTube videos that featured Yvan Lacroix. Could not believe someone could wash a car dressed in a suit and bow tie, but that is Yvan. As I live in the inner city area, my vehicle is parked on the street 24/7, so out in the weather elements along with fallout from heavy construction and trucks that is happening in the area. Also, tree sap , bird and bat droppings (bats happening now as street trees have berries). The previous Toyota had clear coat failure on the roof and bonnet (hood), but side panels were still in good condition. These panels are what I concentrated on in gaining skills in properly washing a car and detailing a car. Because the car was outside, this was my main reason of having it coated with Opti-Coat Pro+, to help protect the paintwork, as this vehicle will most likely be my last one I purchase, so I need to care for my investment. I get to wash the car weekly, but sometimes it may go to 2-3 weeks, pending if I am able to park out the front of the house. I do have a question with regards to chemical decontamination which I will post in the appropriate area. That is a brief story about myself, where I live , what I drive,
  11. 1 point
    Long post ahead! I'm writing this down to recap for myself, and why not share. This will be a boring post for almost everyone though! Also, I've written this at an u holy hour and haven't checked spelling or anything. First off; a fair warning, OPT states Power Clean should be rinsed thorougly. Follow their instructions, to avoid staining/damage. So, after having a lot of thought over my previous cleaning proces, I have now come up with a new (and improved to me) proces. It's getting really close to being dead simple, but still will probably change altogether again, some time in the future. This post will cover a routine cleanse for both ex- and interior. This will not/barely remove salts, fallout, contamination from the exterior, and stains from the interior carpets/surfaces. Wheel wells and the undercarriage will also be avoided. This type of wash would probably be performed at least on a 2-monthly basis on a daily driven car, and once a year, after winter, one would maybe enjoy a deep clean, with MDR, FERREX and Power Clean, and also undercarriage cleaning. Also look at VLM upholstery and Encap Carpet cleaning for a deep clean. What would we need? - De-ionized Water - Bucket with Grit Guard (on a dolly) - Big Red Sponge - Open loop low-nap Microfiber towel, 70/30 blend, ~ 350 GSM (Or preferred towel for washing) - Preferred Drying Towel - Preferred Glass Towel (Optional) - TRC Jersey Bug Sponge (Optional) - Optimum Wheel and Body Brush - Optimum No Rinse (Wash and Wax) (Optionally in a sprayer for pre-spray) - Good vacuum (A good shop vac, look for CFM/L/S and vacuum values) - Compressed air (Tornador or Chuck) (Sort of Optional) - Optimum Power Clean 3:1/5:1 (Sort of Optional) - Power Washer (Optional) - Optimum Opti-Seal (Optional, with applicator pad) - Optimum Car Wax (Optional) - Tire Shine with applicater pad of choice (Optional) So, let's begin. Firstly, inspect the vehicle and asess the level of dirt. According to personal preference, rinse the vehicle with the power washer if you deem it necessary and the car is very dirty. If it's dirty, maybe you would like to ONR pre-spray. This is personal preference. You can also do both, whatever suits you, or the car. First we are going to tackle the interior. Generally we'll be working from back to front and top to bottom. We'll finish the interior with a vacuum of the carpet. If possible and necessary, start from the rear, and blow the dirt from under the rearmost seats. Blow clean any cupholders (Tornador wet setting is perfect for this) and then blow clean the top of these seats and the backrests. In case of three rows, repeat for the seccond row if possible. Sitting in the second row, hit the front center console area if possible, next blow into the crevaces on the side of the front seats and follow with blowing out under the front seats. Now hit the door pockets from the rear doors. Move to the front and also hit the door pockets of these front doors. Next hit the center console again since you're in a better position now. Next up, hit the dash if you like, though I find it unneccesary. Finish it with a hit on the front seats and there backrests. Now grab your ONR and the wash towel of choice. Dunk it and wring it so you have a damp towel. Start at the front of the car. Hit all surfaces, excluding carpet and cloth seats. Don't forget the A-Pillars, sunvisors and control panel on the headliner. Leather upholstery can be wiped as well, if coated. Work your way to the back of the car, and dunk the towel as you move to the next spot. Don't hit any of the dirty sills just yet and also avoid the headliner to not get any sagging liner in a couple of years. Now clean all the glass (Sunroofs as wel) on the inside using the ONR dampend (Glass) towel and dry with your drying/glass towel. Now it's time to move onto vacuuming the car, work from back to front, and also hit the upholstery. Don't use the tornador, u may also use a brush to aid if preferred, but a killer vac is king. After this, your interior is basically finished, you can add leather cleaning/protecting to this step. Avoid anti-fog for windows, like the plague it is. Now move onto the exterior. Simply just start washing the car, excluding wheels, and work from top to bottom using the Big Red Sponge. Wash with 50% overlapping passes and use light pressure. Dunk frequently. Adjust your sections according to drying time. Sometimes you can wash the whole car, sometimes you'll have to split the roof in 6 sections for example. Use the towel in places the sponge can't go. Dry using the drying towel and preffered optional drying aid. Preferably dry all of the glass first, otherwise use a seperate towel for this. Bird droppings and insects, if present, may need some extra passes. If that doesn't work (Clean more often), use a closed loop low nap towel or the jersey bug scrubber. If this still doesn't work (Really, clean more often), use the Power Clean. Rinse (with Optimum No Rinse) Thoroughly. Clean grill(s) using the optimum wheel and tire brush, dry them using compressed air. Now clean the sills of the car with either a damp or wet towel, keep an eye on the run off making things dirty again. Dry either way. Clean the painted door parts as well. Now onto the wheels, the most dreadfull part of any rinseless wash. Except, it shouldn't be, because of Optimum Synergy. Simply use the brush and Onr to clean the rims, tires and visible parts of the wheel whells. For wheel barrels, use a dedicated brush you prefer. If ONR doesn't have enough cleaning power (You need to brake less, or clean more often), apply Power Clean and agitate with the brush again. Wipe with a damp micrifiber towel to get most of the brake dust and power clean off, and rinse thoroughly (with optimum no Rinse). Dry with a damp towel. Apply Tire Shine. That is basically it, of course you could do alot more than this, but KISS is the motto. Cleaning this way is fun, fast and dead easy, so you can think about other stuff than what you are doing. I love Optimum Polymer Technologies, they changed the game and I'm curious what the future will bring.
  12. 1 point
    LostVulpine

    Well good evening . . .

    . . . one and all! Long time lurker, first time poster! With the amount of information and advice I've gained from this forum I thought it was time to actually say hello. I'm Adam, from Norfolk in the UK. I've always liked a clean car but in the early days only knew of the soap, bucket and sponge method! I think in my years of cleaning I've probably done more harm to paint than good overall . . . Like most, got a 'new to me' car and thought I might look into how to look after this one properly and down the rabbit hole I went! I joined detailing forums, watched YouTube and ended up buying the pressure washer, the 3 buckets, the wheel soaps, paint soaps, glass cleaners, mitts for one part of the car, mitts for other parts, the list goes on and on . . . I think I washed my car twice with all this stuff and loved the results. Shortly after these first initial cleans I was diagnosed with a genetic respiratory condition that seriously hampered my ability to carry out tasks like car cleaning and getting about but I still loved having a clean car. I thought that was going to be an end to me cleaning my own car. Then I started to wonder if there was an easier, more efficient way to get the same results but took less effort to do and set up, and if I had to stop halfway through it wouldn't cause any damage to surfaces. I did my research and came across ONR, and about the whole Optimum Synergy, and thought what a great system! I found this forum and started working my way through the products section, post by post - one of the most informative and polite forums I have ever come across! I was sold, so an order for ONR, BRS, Opti Bond and Spray Car Wax was made and since then I've never looked back. None of these chemicals set off my respiratory condition, I can do a panel a day, or the whole car, which ever suits me with very minimal setup time and all with very few chemicals. Anyway, that's my story, looking forward to getting involved further with this forum and finding out more about polishing as that's still something I'm yet to try, but itching to have a go at!
  13. 1 point
    Habs

    Well good evening . . .

    welcome i started with optimum 3 years ago and love it the polishing is easy with optimum spray compound and polish at slow speeds this is what gets amazing results take your time you dont need a expensive machine. having experience with power tools helped me and this form. the gloss coat is amazing it helps keep the car clean and get there onr on the car . good luck and have fun
  14. 1 point
    Habs

    Habs

    Optimum carpet and fabric cleaner Doing the seats now the back is done the seat is not lots of dirty water in my extractor from ct it broke down leaking every were lol I think I am pulling dirt out of the foam the material has a bit of a shine to it now may be this is the protection. Getting a even coat of cleaner on then scrub then soak up with microfiber seams to work if realy dirty area I use extractor
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for following back up on this thread In the end, I've experimented with both methods over the past few months and I still find using a spray bottle is the most effective for me For wheels, I find it is more the agitation rather than the foam vs spray or even dilution strength that cleans the wheels and tires for me For the body, I find there's more control using the spray bottle whereas it can be difficult to control the foam spray sometimes (I know I've seen people use this briefly on glass but I still prefer avoiding glass with Power clean if possible)
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    Proof that nothing on the internet is ever truly "gone"?
  17. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-clean on tires

    If you pre-cleaned it with Ferrex that would probably be sufficient enough...but no harm in using Opti-clean as a drying aid on wheels... Your method would probably work just fine.
  18. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Ferrex as a wheel cleaner?

    Yes, that's exactly what FerreX is formulated to do, though agitation will depend on the brake dust buildup. If you follow the ONR wash with Opti-Seal or Spray Wax, you would reduce the buildup and might get by with simply washing it off. You can use FerreX weekly but that will get expensive.
  19. 1 point
    Yes, you can use Optimum Carpet & Fabric on alcantara - follow the cleaning instructions.
  20. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Well good evening . . .

    Welcome to Optimum - we take great pride in our Eco Friendly products and I'm asked frequently how safe they are. We have a strong international contingent and always appreciate the diversity (though we do sometimes get lost in conversion tables - liters to gallons, etc).
  21. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Well good evening . . .

    Hey, welcome to the forum, that's great and interesting that the Optimum products are non-sensitizing for your respiratory condition.