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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/06/2012 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    A&J

    Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS)

    I have stumbled upon this thread on Autopia.org forum that I have found very interesting to read infact so much so I have decided to post it here for anyone interested in it. The post is from Yvan Lacroix describing the Hyper paint correction system. "Optimum Polymer Technologies Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) is a simple system designed to give superior results in less time while using less product. It’s a complete system designed to be simple to use and efficient without creating dust, or the need to tape off plastic mouldings. Consisting of 2 machines, 1 Compound, 2 polishes and 4 pads the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) gives you everything you need for correction and shine in one or 2 steps. The machines designed to work with the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) The Zentool 21E is a 900W random orbital polisher with a 21mm offset stroke. Unique in the industry with an easy to grip surface, the Zentool 21E is simple to use and will get swirl free professional results with very minimal effort and time. Important to the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) the Zentool 21E was designed with a backing plate to promote in pad cooling reducing heat because of the airflow possible only through Optimum Waffle pads. Able to use both 5 and 6 inch pads the Zentool 21E is a formidable correction tool. The Zentool mini is a 3 inch random orbital polisher that allows you to get into tighter areas. With it’s 12mm offset stroke it combines both polishing and correction abilities in a easy to handle and manoeuver package. The pads of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) listed in order of cut from fast cutting to fine polishing. Hyper Foam/ wool pad. Exclusive to Optimum this pad combines a short nap foamed wool face, with a soft foam interface to follow surface contours. This pad combined with Hyper Compound will quickly correct 1500G sanding marks, and provide a surface that just requires a final polishing prior to coating or wax application. Optimums Waffle pads have some specific design elements that allow them to work efficiently as an integral part of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS). A unique Velcro backing allows air to flow through it for optimal pad cooling. The waffle surface allows for air to circulate between the pad and paint. The waffle surface also eliminates pressure points and excessive drag caused by flat pads, allowing for more efficient pad rotation. The Orange waffle pad combines cut with good polishing abilities. The orange pad can be used with Hyper Compound for light to moderate defect removal, with Hyper Intensive Polish for a one step polish that has good correction and high gloss. When minimal correction is required Hyper polish will finish down LSP ready while providing correction. The Black Waffle pad is for use with your choice of Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish. Used as the final step following correction with Hyper compound it will quickly refine the surface left by Hyper Compound. Using the Black Waffle pad will give high gloss and provide minimal correction. The Blue Waffle pad is to be used with Hyper Polish as a refinement step when dealing with difficult to correct paints. The Hyper Paint Correction System is based around the synergy of the Hyper trio and the complete Optimum line. The Hyper trio are characterised by their ease of use, efficiency and how user friendly they are. Non staining, no taping of mouldings is required, non-dusting when used according to instructions, and using inter compatible nano abrasives the trio save time and effort. No need to wipe off the residue between steps as the synergy of the HPCS allows you to refine the surface without risking towel marring and wasting time removing the minimal residue. Hyper Compound is a cutting compound that easily removes 1500G sanding marks, while providing an easy to refine surface. Used with either the Hyper Wool/foam pad or the Orange waffle pad Hyper Compound provides both cut and gloss, without dust or hazing. For very heavy correction the Optimum Double Sided Wool pad can be used effectively with Hyper Compound. Hyper Intensive Polish is a cutting polish, providing a gloss finish and moderate cutting abilities its primary use is as a one-step polish. Used with the Orange or Black waffle pad, cut and finish can be adjusted. Hyper Polish is used in conjunction with the waffle pads to refine the surface after compound, or to provide exceptional gloss on paints that do not require correction. The synergy of the complete Optimum line is highlighted with the HPCS, and the time saving realized by using this synergy are evident. For a full correction detail utilizing the Optimum line, and how it saves you time follow these simple steps. Wash the vehicle with Optimum No Rinse(ONR). Decontaminate the paint using an Optimum Clay Towel and the ONR on the surface from the wash as lubrication. Determine the level of correction required and start with your first correction step over the ONR dampened surface, no need to dry or tape off the vehicle. Dampen your chosen pad with ONR wash solution (preferably in a pad washer) and simply spray 1 shot of Hyper Compound on the pad, no need to prime the pad, nor use a large amount of product. Not over using the product is a very important aspect and requires some adaptation for most experienced polishers. It’s imperative that you use a damp pad, and that no more than 1 spray of Hyper Compound of polish be used per section. With the Hyper Paint Correction System do not prime your pads, an clean and dampen your pads after every section. Using the Zentool move it slowly over the surface with a tool speed only as high as needed to allow the backing plate to turn (2-3 on the speed dial). Excessive speed is counterproductive as it creates heat. Pressure should be avoided, just the weight of the tool is sufficient. Again this is different than with most polishing products, just like more product does not mean more results, the same goes with speed and pressure, more will potentially reduce cut and finish. Allow the Hyper Paint Correction System to do the work, not you. The pad should be cleaned of excessive product and paint residue after every section and kept clean and damp with an ONR filled pad cleaner. Once the correction step is complete on the whole vehicle, proceed to the polishing step, there is no need to wipe off the minimal Hyper Compound residue. Doing a test spot will determine if you require Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish to refine the surface to make it ready for Opti-Seal, Optimum Gloss Coat or Opti-Coat Pro(For Opti-Coat Pro the included Primer Polish should be used instead of Hyper Polish). The Polishing step should require minimal time and passes, as any correction should be done in the first step. Using the pad/polish combination of your choice refine the surface while keeping your pad clean and damp. As with Hyper Compound only one spray of product on the pad is needed. If your paint is very difficult to finish, using a clean blue waffle pad dampened in ONR without any polish will aid in removing the polish residue, working in small sections at low speed To prepare the surface for application of an Optimum coating, remove the polish residue using a Micro-Fibre Towel dampened with ONR to soften and remove the polish residue safely , then apply a mist of Optimum Paint Prep on the panel and dry off both the ONR and Paint Prep.. The ONR will easily remove the polish residue and the Optimum Paint Prep will leave the surface ready for the coating. The Paint Prep Solution has many advantages over IPA when preparing for a coating. It has higher lubricity, allowing the coating to flow out and self-level better , reducing high spots. Optimum Paint Prep also removes all traces of wax and polishing oils leaving the surface as pure as possible for the Opti-Seal, Gloss-Coat or Opti-Coat Pro to bond."
  2. 2 points
    A&J

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    You click on the time under the post (for example it says "9hours ago") and it takes you to that post. Dont forget to like my comment...apparantly the more likes I get the better the change I win OCP or other OPT stuff this month
  3. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-Seal on Tires?

    Opti-Seal will not hurt tires, but won't help them either. It is effective on rubber trim - tires are more porous and absorb product.
  4. 2 points
    oregonduck

    OID or OOC?

    I enjoy washing my own cars and keeping them looking good with the best products. I currently use OCW as my sole wax product and am very happy with the product. I use it after every wash since I don't wash the cars on a regular basis. I am looking for a product to spot clean bugs and small bird and tree droppings on a daily basis for maintenance between my full washes. I have been going back and forth between buying OID and OOC and just can't make a decision. I think both products would have different advantages but these are just based on what I've read online as I have not used either. I am assuming OOC would have more cleaning power than OID which would be great for the purpose of cleaning up the occasional bugs, bird or tree droppings after a drive. One of my questions is would using OOC on a regular basis for spot clean up also remove my OCW protection at the same time? On the other hand, I have been leaning towards buying OID for this spot cleaning purpose. I figure if OID offers enough cleaning power to wash off these type of spots (which should be fairly fresh considering my goal behind this product purchase is to stay on top of this) then I'm wondering if OID could work as my spot cleaner, but also offer me much more protection than OOC? Since I don't always get to do full wash with OCW application very regularly, I like the idea of the product I choose giving me extra protection from the elements as a bridge, and am assuming OID would offer more protection than OOC? But would OID have sufficient cleaning power for the bug/bird/tree spots? One more note, I wouldn't really be using either of these products for their intended use! I like OCW and the added protection and it is so easy I can't see using the OID instead of OCW as my LSP. On the other hand, I am kind of a purist when it comes to a full car wash, so wouldn't be using OOC for its intended waterless wash purpose. I hope this extra info helps, just looking for some expert advice on which product to buy for this spot cleaner purpose?
  5. 2 points
    Paul S

    Happy Birthday !

    Happy Birthday shout out to Dr. G. !!!!!! Hope you have a great day.
  6. 1 point
    Ron Harris

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Optimum Gloss-Coat™ is the most advanced polymer system that forms a layer of clear coat over automotive finishes. Optimum Gloss-Coat™ provides better scratch and mar resistance, better UV resistance, better chemical etch resistance, and has better release properties than any other consumer product while providing unsurpassed gloss and slickness. Additionally, you can top Optimum Gloss-Coat™ with any non-abrasive wax or sealant of your choice to add additional gloss and slickenss. Optimum Gloss-Coat™ can be used to protect the following surfaces: • painted surfaces • wheels • plastic trim • bumpers • aluminum & chrome surfaces Since Optimum Gloss-Coat™ bonds to surfaces it is applied to, any paint imperfections must be removed with Optimum Polish II or Optimum Hyper Polish before application. Also all waxes and oils must be removed from the surfaces for proper bonding. Directions: 1. Polish paint with Optimum Polish II or Optimum Hyper Polish to remove any defects. 2. Clean surface with 15% IPA solution to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicones. 3. Prime the applicator by making an X pattern across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel. 4. Wipe Optimum Gloss-Coat™ onto a single panel at a time in a thin layer using two directions, in a circular or front to back direction. 5. Within 5 minutes, inspect the panel with adequate lighting looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear. 6. Use foam applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out any areas where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be polished if allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self-leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results. 7. Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired. Not recommended for glass.
  7. 1 point
    A&J

    Difference between GPS and poli-seal

    This was probarbly answered somewhere but again...What is the difference between GPS and Poli-seal. Both are supose to be "cleaner waxes" but which is more agressive? Do they contain the same sealant? Has anyone tested the durability side by side? Which lasts longer without being toped with wax?
  8. 1 point
    Kiddetailer

    Official Curing Time Chart?

    I know this forum and many other places throughout the web have spoken about proper Curing times for the various protection products from Optimum. I was hoping for a sticky thread where it will state proper curing times like for Gloss Coat, Opti Seal, Optimum Car Wax, Opti Lens, Opti Glass etc. For Gloss Coat I know that it can touch water in 1 hour, can be wash after 7 days with car soap, and no chemicals touching the gloss coat until at least 30 days. What about things like opti seal after gloss coat to protect it after application? I read many of Gus's posts where he says put opti seal 1 hour after gloss coat has been applied. Is this the official word from optimum? Or how long after Opti seal can Optimum Car Wax be applied?
  9. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    MDR Mineral Deposit Remover

    Sounds like some MDR is exactly what you want.
  10. 1 point
    A&J

    Brand new BMW M1 got Gloss coated

    I got contacted to detail and protect a brand new BMW M1 series in estoril blue. The costumer and I set up a date that happened to be this weekend. Like mentioned the car was brand spanking new so when it arrived it looked great which was good for me as I didnt have much to do. The car upon arival The car was fairly clean for a 2 day old...the wheels had some brake dust acumulated and there was some bug splatter in front Upon inspection I diddnt find any major damage, just some light swirls that will be removed with polishing. They were most visible on the back lights. I went with the Mike Phillips aggresive wash technique. So I started with the chemical decon procedure. I used a local iron remover product called Carshinefactory Iron off. Snow foamed and washed usind OPT car wash Foamed again and clayed the paint using a clay mitt. I pulled the car into the garage to dry it and to polish it using OPT Hyper polish and LC orange pad on a DA. 1-2 passes were enough to remove light swirls. I polished the entire car in about 2h (very fast yes I know). I used OPT paint prep to remove polishing oils. Gloss coat was applied to the majority of the car... ...The majority because I ran out of it and had to use Gyeon Cancoat for the back boot and bumper. One coat of Gloss coat and 3 coats of Cancoat on the back 1h apart and left it in the garage over night. The next morning I applied Carpro Reload to help the coating cure for the next couple of weeks. Fk1000p on the exhaust Gtechiq C2 on the wheels and TAC system tyre dressing on the tyres The interior was vacuumed and the plastics wiped with OPT opti-clean. The door shuts were polished with OPT poli-seal. The engine bay was wiped with APC and plastics protected with Wolfs chemicals plasic & trim coat. End results Money shot picture Thats it. Thanks for watching.
  11. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Poli-seal as a primer for OC 2.0

    yes, Paint Prep will remove the sealant in Poli-Seal.
  12. 1 point
    I use slightly higher dilution ratio but fully support the idea of a single spray per panel is normally enough. If you get streaking it is normally due to using too much product
  13. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Big Red Sponge

    IMO if you're getting dirt on your drying towels you're not doing enough washing before you dry. Just like with a conventional wash, sometimes you have to go over an area more than once to get it clean. Try doing one pass with one side of the BRS, then going back over with the the other side to remove any remaining dirt. I don't have a BRS, but another thing I've done, with that kind of wash media, is you kind of have 4 sides, if you use the two edges. What I'm saying is kind of like if you were washing with a folded towel, where you flip or re-fold to get to a clean surface, you can wash a panel using the two sides of the BRS, then go back using the edges for a final pass. Anyway, my recommendation is, if you're having this problem, is go back for a second pass with the other (clean) side of the BRS. You really want the dirt in your wash media and not your drying media.
  14. 1 point
    pootoo12000

    Car cleaner wax

    With summer upon us, it's hard to wash and dry before water spots begin to appear. I like to use OCW as a drying aid. It occurred to me that a little cleaning power to go along with OCW would be a welcome addition. I mixed 1teaspoon of Opticlean concentrate with 3ounces of OCW and, wow, it got rid of any spotting I came across and even removed a grease spot I missed during the wash. Optimum Car Cleaner Wax, anyone?
  15. 1 point
    Habs

    OCW durability issues

    Great info After I apply my opti gloss ( if it ever warms up in my garage) I am going to use ocw with every wash witch is once a week and see how it looks . Dan
  16. 1 point
    IPS-Lindy

    Temporary Forum Shutdown

    Great feedback, thanks guys. As Ron noted, I'm a gearhead and have been an avid user of OPT products for years, so I'm happy to offer some help where I can. This is definitely a huge change, but please give it a chance... I think you'll come to love it (I may have an ever so slight bias. :)) If you click "unread content" and then click the condensed tab on the right side, I think you'll find this more to your liking. Activity streams are very powerful. You can use the pre-defined streams by clicking Activity -> My Activity Streams (as as a point of interest, if there's something specific you're looking for, we can create a custom stream on your behalf. Further, you can create your own custom stream here - select your options, save it and it will show in the aforementioned list. In fact, you can set that as your default stream so anytime you click activity, it automatically goes there. For example, you can create a stream to read all OPT employee responses in one central location. You can create one to only show you certain forums such as ONR. You can have a stream that shows you all topics you've participated in, also filtered by various factors. Once you get streams setup the way you like, it's really difficult to go back to the old "view new content" found on other forums. Our designers made a couple of changes over the weekend. Do you find it easier to read now? Please see above. You can simply default to "unread content" and adjust the filters on the top of the page, or create your own streams to display exactly how you'd like. Those should have carried over. I'll get a tech to take a look. That would be nice! I hesitate to call them participation trophies, but essentially, they do in fact recognize participation in a community. In the next major release of our software due in a few months, those can be tied to actions. For example, OPT could have a VIP forum exclusive to active contributors and create an action that would handle promotion of that automatically. They could also be used for contests, as noted. I increased the size of post content slightly - hopefully that helps.
  17. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Mask off rubber trim for Opti-Gloss?

    You don't need to tape anything, Gloss-Coat will have no effect on rubber. It works on everything else - plastic, metal, glass, and clear coat.
  18. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    The Guz, as usual, is correct. Additional coats (after 1 hour) will ensure compete coverage and increase gloss, they do not add durability. Opti-Seal is another way to accomplish the same protection.
  19. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Wood working machine surfaces?

    Seal, Wax, or Instant Detailer would all protect against oxidation (rust) and do not contain silicone.
  20. 1 point
    Jim Busch

    My formula for fantastic Quick Detailer

    I'm sorry I have been running with my hair on fire at work so I haven't gotten a chance to post back here! A&J I have been adding it to the wash water at various strengths and to the detailer formula at pretty small amounts of 1/2 ounce or so. I like the way it makes the wipe-off really go quicker...just like it does as a pure drying agent. Leaves a great shine. One thing I have been doing once in a while is I will spray down my door jams with my home made concoction detailer and then dry them off using OS as a drying agent to wipe down the jams. Kind of keeps them sparkly clean and leaves behind a little protection at the same time.
  21. 1 point
    In addition to using GPS on obvious things like shoes and coins, I also use ONR on most things but one of the best things which is not talked about a lot is carpet. This is especially useful in an emergency situation which always seems to occur with children and dogs and for quick cleaning of a carpet interior. Today I found an very old pliers which had rusted up. Quick spray of a famous water dispersant did not do very much but Ferrex worked wonders. Optibond on shoes If Power Clean was cheaper I am sure there are lots of things I could try but one thing which has worked well is to dilute it with diluted ONR, makes wiping off even easier ONR with IPA, great on glass ONR as a polish oil remover
  22. 1 point
    One week in and no surprise, both Glass Clean & Protect and Opti-Seal are still on the job, beading water.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Opti-Seal Q&A

    You're using too much product. An iPad is a pretty small area for one spray of product. With all due respect, this product has been around since 2007, and if it wasn't a "true WOWA" you wouldn't have been the first one to figure that out. There is a small learning curve to this product, i.e. how much to use, how far to spread, in order for it to behave in the expected fashion. And it's pretty simple, you just need to get the product spread out thin enough to be able to "walk away". If you are using too much product for the surface area you have, you will be unable to get it spread to the required "thinness", and then it will leave residue as you are experiencing. There's a few (tens of thousands) of us who have been able apply this product without incident; you simply need to adjust your technique. Maybe try it on your car?
  25. 1 point
    Ron Harris

    Wet Sanding Basics.

    This is just a basic example of wet sanding procedures.If you have never attempted this before I recomend you find a scrape panel to practice with. What you need A large sponge A 5 gal bucket Foam sanding block. 2000 grit sanding paper. A squeegee. Our victim Porsche Carrera. The right rear quarter was repainted as was the door and right front fender. Ok. What you want to do first is fill a 5 gal bucket with water and start soaking your paper. I don't add soap.Why? I think that the lubricity masks the sound that dirt makes when between the paper and paint. I think it makes the paper cut deeper. Soak for 30min while you wash the car. I use 2000 grit 3M Imperial paper. I feel that you can remove most imperfections with this paper. Some like to start with 1200 but based on my experience you will just be adding a step that is not necessary. When you start compounding you will have some stray deep scratches that will be hard to remove if you didn't sand enough with a finer grit. Seeing the stray scratches are impossible when there is no gloss. So you could end up removing to much clear or burning the clear trying to compound them out. Is your car clean? If not give it a good washing paying special attention to the nooks and crevices around the area you will be sanding. Dirt trapped in these areas can be flushed out while sanding with the water and come between the paper and paint causing some deep scratches. You can here this happening and you should stop and flush your panel and paper with fresh water to remove the dirt. Lets start sanding. You want to work in a cool well lit area out of the sun. You may be able to see some of the imperfections like dirt or fish eye in the finish of the car but some may be hard to detect but will show up during the compound and polishing step. Orange peel will be obvious and you only should remove enough to match the rest of the car. This takes practice to do. Your first time out don't go for a completely flat finish if your car dose not have one. I start by lightly sanding the panel with my paper wrapped around a foam sanding block. I Call this giving you a guide to the finish. This will high lite all the dirt and orange peel. Squeegee off the water and examen. see example pictures. The circles are showing you dirt in the finish. So now we can see just how much dirt and orange peel in in the finish. Lets start sanding more. Keep the panel wet with water using your sponge. Remember if you here a gritty squeak stop and flush. Work an area stop squeegee and examine. Looking at the next pic we can see that most of the orange peel gone but a big piece of dirt remains. We will need to sand this a little more. When working on curved surfaces you want to remove the block from the paper and use your hand. You never want to sand with your finger tips.try to keep your hand as flat as possible and sand as if you were waving. Sanding with the tips of your fingers will create valleys in theb finish that will look like waves when polished. So now the car is completely sanded Next Compounding