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Showing most liked content since 09/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    theTHiiiNG

    Optimum Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL

    For the last 2 weeks I've been trialing a test of Optimum's Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL. This was very subjective, and hopefully honest test. Spoiler alert - I will start out by saying both products are fantastic and are more than worthy of purchasing. I didn't get any great photos as it was too hard to tell the subtle differences between them so you will have to take my word for it. Both products are water based and can be diluted if needed/desired. Optimum Opti-Bond + Leaves a perfectly smooth high gloss finish with no greasy residue + Can be diluted further to reduce gloss (I wouldn't go past 1:1 as the consistency gets... weird) + Very good value for money (as usual with Optimum) + Although not really obvious, can be used on external (and even internal) plastic trim and rubber + Still going strong after 2 weeks in a daily driven car in a variety of weather + Does not appear blotchy or streaky if applied unevenly - The smell is hard to describe, but it's not great - Has trouble bonding to older rubber that has started to dry - The high gloss look may not be desirable for some Applied undiluted to the tyre. CarPro PERL + Produces a fantastic satin finish on everything it touches + Has some kind of darkening effect built in that makes rubber look new + Smells amazing! + Can be diluted down for use on leather and plastic if needed + Very good value for money when purchased in the 1 litre size - Produced an unsightly cheap silicone look in direct sunlight when used at full strength (on tyres at least) - If you are after a high gloss, wet look, this may not be the best choice - Durability on tyres is only average. Starting to noticabley drop off after 2 weeks - Due to the darkening effect, it can appear 'patchy' if you don't apply it evenly Applied undiluted to the tyre. Both products perform great once you get the hang of the quirks each have. For instance - PERL will leave a streaky finish if not wiped down soon after applying and Opti-Bond turns into a really weird consistency if you dilute it too much. I will say that a huge downside to PERL is when applied at full strength to tyres it has a horrible cheap silicone dressing look to it when hit by full sunlight. I took my car to a friends house to actually show it off after washing it on the weekend and this actually made me embarrassed when he saw it. I would happily choose and love using either product, but if I had to go with only one I would give the very slightest advantage to Opti-Bond. I think the name should be changed to Opti-Bond External Trim and Tire Gel as in my experience it actually outperformed PERL on external plastic. I applied it to my mothers car which had very faded external plastic trim, and upon seeing the car weeks later it was still performing well even though it sits outside 24/7. If you have any experiences with either of these products please let me know!
  2. 2 points
    Lowejackson

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    To listen to some British guy talking about detailing efficiency on the Synergy Podcast. Or perhaps I should say 'to listen to me talking about detailing efficiency'. https://optimumsynergypodcast.libsyn.com/lean-processing-next-level-efficiency
  3. 2 points
    The Guz

    Decon Process

    Do you have water spots on the car? If not then no need to use MDR. Keep it simple and this is what I would do 1. Ferrex. If the paint is not that dirty you can use that over the dry surface to not dilute the product with water. If it is too dirty wash and dry first then use Ferrex. 2. Rinse the Ferrex from the surface and proceed with your normal wash 3. Clay 4. Paint prep if you want to take an additional step after claying to remove any clay lube residue. No need for an additional wash. 5. Polish 6. Protect 7. Maintain
  4. 1 point
    Power Clean will not remove Gloss-Coat, you are safe to use it on wheels, etc. Power Clean WILL strip wax, sealant, tar, etc.
  5. 1 point
    Gunner, you're right, we're hesitant to suggest durability due to variables. I would guess you'll make it until the new year with Hyper Seal.
  6. 1 point
    A&J

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    Great podcast...Ive just listened to it...I havent listened to the podcast in a while now and I really enjoyed yours. I dont know if I will call you Steven from now on or Leanjackson Detail Groove was a good shoutout...he talks a lot about organization and custumer care and custumer expectations. Its always interesting to look at his videos. You can learn a lot from his as well as from Darren Priest from a business point of view and efficiency at work. Yes Im from Europe (Slovenia to be exact)...I dare you to find it on a map without using google . I still use the black waffle sponge. Not from serious performance but from a local supplier (Im guessing its the same or a very similar sponge). I actually use 2 of them in my bucket now...one for the initial pass and the other for the second pass before a spritz of opti-seal to help me dry a panel or two at a time. Ive used noodle mitts and MF towels in the past...they work OK but the mitt gets very dirty really fast and therefore I dont like using it often and the MF towels (using the Garry Dean method) is fine on its own and may be the safest aproach but you really need quite a lot of towels which can be expensive and you have to wash them afterwards and I try to avoid that as much as I can. Sometime soon Ill probably buy&try the Flexipads blue waffle sponge (similar to the OPT blue waffle sponge IMO) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Flexipads-Professional-Grade-Waffle-Sponge/dp/B01EVTZO5Q or the Soft 99 egg sponge which is very soft to the touch https://www.amazon.co.uk/SOFT99-516-Smooth-Creamy-Soft-Sponge-Pieces/dp/B00BUFE7HG Both are IMO good options for rinseless washing.
  7. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    How to remove Opti Seal?

    A thorough APC wash (Power Clean is excellent) should remove Opti-Seal.
  8. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Decon Process

    This video from the Rag Company with Yvan may be helpful
  9. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti coat No wash Sign?

    They are supplied to OCP Pro Installers - you might ask Chasaty if they can be purchased (chasaty@opticoat.com).
  10. 1 point
    avimore

    New Member from Australia

    Thanks for the welcome guys. I haven't had any communication with Joel yet but I'll be sure to introduce myself. Thanks for the links, time to get started on those podcasts!
  11. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Water Spots on Top of Opti-Coat

    spray on, let dwell for a minute or 2, wash off with lot's of water.
  12. 1 point
    The Opti-Coat line is designed to give installers a dedicated product to offer to Coating customers, sizes are convenient for end users, and there is a comparable Optimum product in a variety of sizes. It's still a new product line and that's the marketing strategy. Opti-Coat No Rinse can be mixed in the same ratios for clay lube or instant detailer as ONR. For some reason OID was a forgotten product to me - I used Opti-Clean or ONR at instant detailer ratio for spot cleaning/pre-spray until I tested the OID on stubborn water spots on an OCP+ car and found it worked well. Now I keep a bottle of OID in the car for bugs/tar/bird bombs/etc...so it works great on Coatings!
  13. 1 point
    I agree with using ONR instead of OID. It provides a lot more lubrication and is very quick to do. If the car really isn't dirty and has just been rained on you could fill a pump sprayer with ONR solution and completely cover the car in it then proceed to dry with a proper drying towel. Just curious though, why do you need to dry it after being rained on?
  14. 1 point
    @Setec Astronomy Thanks for your sharing your experience. This is very disappointing as a year or less is really no longer than potentially applying a standard paint sealant ( or a lens sealant in the cheap headlight restoration kits). From what I have researched here and other boards, Opti-lens is specifically formulated to bond to plastic such that it performs better when the factory clear coat has been fully removed. It there is still factory clear coat on lens (not started to yellow), it is best just to use standard paint coatings (Gloss-coat or Opti-coat pro). I think one the main contributors to lens failure is road rash (mileage with lots of exposure to small rocks). One of the clients I applied Opti-lens to commutes 150 km round trip daily on on the 401 Hwy in Ontario. So we'll see in a year if he experiences the same premature failure that you have experienced. I know for my personal vehicle (2011 BMW 328xi wagon) I have installed XPEL PPF on the headlight lens to protect from road debris that can lead to clear coat failure on the lens. I wonder if I should be combining Opti-lens with application PPF after 1 week cure time.
  15. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-Clean & OCW?

    It would be interesting if someone tested and compared mixing: - 10% Opti-seal to 90% ONR at QD dilution - 10% OCW to 90% ONR at QD dilution - 10% OCW to 90% OID - 10% Opti-seal to 90% OID - 10% OCW to 90% Opti clean - 10% Opti-seal to 90% Opti clean 10% is just a reference point...it could be more or less. I volunteer for the 3 Opti seal mixes! Anyone else wanna have a go?
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Hello from Kentucky

    Welcome to Optimum - lots of great advice here to keep your car beautiful!
  17. 1 point
    funny to see Dann listed as "new to the Forum" - while not active on the OPT Forum, Dann is anything but new to Optimum. A past pro installer, Regional Manager, and current VP of Business Development, Dann is as knowledgeable as anyone could hope for and a welcome voice here!
  18. 1 point
    Dann

    How to fix a scratch on Opticoat Pro+?

    Indeed, the only way to move Opti Coat is via abrasion. Your best bet is to go to your installer and have him polish and reapply Opti Coat to the area.
  19. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-Coat M-Wash and Foam Cannon

    the foam cannon ratio is the same - .5 oz to 1 gallon of water. You can store the remainder but not indefinitely - depending on the water quality (distilled water is best) and bacteria introduced by equipment, the mixture can become funky (chemical term) and need to be replaced.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks all. Yes, considering how many anti-Optimum videos he's done, I was surprised he mentioned using ONR again. Scott has put out some great videos, but I don't get the Optimum hatred.
  21. 1 point
    I˙ll join the party. Interiors are usually a clean place and if you clean your car with ONR every week just soak a towel with it and wipe the interior with that. Like everyone else I use one or the other. If I want a quick fix Ill grab my opti clean sprayer and spray and wipe. Both work fine...dont overthink it.
  22. 1 point
    Car Wash works well with Coated cars and shouldn't effect or interfere with normal beading behavior. M-Wash works even better and is formulated specifically for Coatings.
  23. 1 point
    Yvan

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Yes, wash with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), and enjoy.
  24. 1 point
    A&J

    Why I Keep Coming Back to Optimum

    You know I was thinking the same thing the other day...After trying a lot of other manufacturers rinseless washes and waxes and sealants and QDs and glazes and so on...I found myself admiring my car after a simple ONR wash and opti-seal application. The car was clean and really reflective from the opti-seal that I started saying to myself "Whats the point in buying anything other than OPT?"...and I really cant find an answer! Im loving every second I use OPT products. And I believe this is a similar feeling for a lot of us here on this forum
  25. 1 point
    Yvan

    Big red sponge with the soap

    The Big Red Sponge can be used with soap, but it doesn’t work well, the Sponge gets loaded. The new Opti-Coat Big Gold Sponge works just as well with both Optimum No Rinse(ONR) and Car Wash Soap.
  26. 1 point
    Yvan

    Opti-Pro Consistent Marring

    Maxima 777 Thank you for bringing this issue to our attention. As noted above you have been speaking with Dann Williams, our Director of business development, and he is guiding your claim through the process. We need to be thorough and make sure everything is done following our established procedures to make sure that you’re situation is resolved correctly. This may take longer than you wish, but in the end it’s for your benefit. If I can be of assistance I can be reached at 1 901 907 1957 from 7am to 10pm eastern time. You can reach me by email at yvan@opticoat.com. Mack Gregory, our Opti-Coat PPF Manager is available from 7am to 10pm Central Time. Mack can be reached at ‭1 (901) 461-4870‬, or mack@opticoat.com. For others that may need it Dann Williams can be reached at dann@opticoat.com or ‭1 (619) 952-4814‬ from 7am to 10pm pacific time.
  27. 1 point
    Kiddetailer

    ONR on polisher pad

    I know in alot of OPT polishing videos, the pad washer is used which contains ONR and the videos show Levi priming the polisher pad up with ONR, and spun to dry before putting on hyper polish/hyper compound. I am not using a pad washer and was planning on just using hyper polish/hyper compound on the pad, polish one panel, and then do a quick "on the fly" cleaning of the pad using a terry cloth towel. Just like in this video. I use a Meguiars G110v2 DA polisher. I read from this article https://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/pad-cleaning-during-and-after-polishing/ that using ONR is good for cleaning pad on the fly. They spray some ONR on the polisher pad and use a towel to clean the residue off the pad. My question is: - For the sake of consistency between polishing panel #1 and panel #2, should I spray some ONR on the polisher pad before working on panel #1? I'm thinking that the results of polishing might differ between panel #1 and #2 too much because for panel #1 there was no ONR used, but for panel #2 (after cleaning the pad on the fly with ONR) there would be some ONR in the pad.
  28. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Poli-seal on glass, plastic, and rubber

    well, Poli-Seal is a polish (as well as cleaner/sealant), so there can be white residue on trim and glass. It comes off easily with an ONR dampened micro fiber towel.
  29. 1 point
    A&J

    OCW application and streaking

    Yes exactly like that!
  30. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Product Suggestions

    I think OPT have a plush MF towel, the Rag Company have a few such as their Eagle Edgeless and Minx towels. Have a look at their site or maybe just phone them. As for applying the sealant, I have found most towels are able to do a good job. The foam pad is probably the best way of applying the sealant. I am sure the Rag Company have suggested their Edgeless 365 in the past
  31. 1 point
    Yvan

    Apex Detail testing

    Please send me an email at yvan@opticoat.com , I will find you Opti-Coat Hyper Seal in Europe.
  32. 1 point
    Yvan

    Opticoat Care

    Thank you for having your vehicles coated, you will find that it’s a great investment. Please confirm what coating your received. If it’s Opti-Coat Pro or Opti-Coat Pro + you will have received a warranty card and they are warranted for 5 and 7 years respectively. If you received Optimum Paint Guard it has a 3 year warranty, and Gloss-Coat has no warranty, but will last 2-3 years with proper maintenance. Maintenance is simple, keep them clean with Opti-Coat No Rinse on a regular basis, and if you wish to add a little more pop you can use Opti-Coat Hyper Seal as a drying aid. To remove bonded contamination, we have 2 options that are very coating friendly. The first is a purely chemical decontamination. wash the car with Opti-Coat No Rinse Apply FerreX, allow to dwell, but not dry, agitate with an Opti-Coat No Rinse dampened MF towel, then rinse. Next, apply Opti-Coat Power Clean , allow to dwell, and rinse. Follow that up with a MDR bath, apply and agitate with a damp MF towel, allow to dwell, then rinse. Finally wash with Opti-Coat No Rinse, dry using Opti-Coat Hyper Seal. Seeing as your in California, a less water intensive approach is to wash the car with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), while the panel is still damp with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), apply one spray of Optimum Car Wax, and use the wax/onr mixture as your clay lube. Dry the panel immediately after you are done with the clay. Here is a brief video describing the process
  33. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    OCW on a newly applied Gloss Coat

    Soaking the bug guts with ONR solution and wiping gently should not remove OCP. Also, OCP should not etch, but can understand the frustration of bugs marring your beautiful car!
  34. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Product Suggestions

    Welcome to all things Optimum and congratulations on investing in the best Coating available! The Opti-Coat line of products was formulated for Coated cars, but Optimum products work well too. For normal maintenance we recommend Opti-Coat No Rinse (or M-Wash for traditional cleaning with hose). You don't need to "top" OCP+ but if you choose to, Hyper Seal is an excellent sealant, provides a sacrificial barrier to swirls, and is incredibly easy to use. Other manufacturers products will work, but do not use polish (or cleaner waxes) on Opti-Coat Pro+. Abrasives will remove the Coating and should not be necessary. Using good quality cleaners, sponges, and towels should keep swirls to a minimum.
  35. 1 point
    A&J

    Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS)

    I have stumbled upon this thread on Autopia.org forum that I have found very interesting to read infact so much so I have decided to post it here for anyone interested in it. The post is from Yvan Lacroix describing the Hyper paint correction system. "Optimum Polymer Technologies Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) is a simple system designed to give superior results in less time while using less product. It’s a complete system designed to be simple to use and efficient without creating dust, or the need to tape off plastic mouldings. Consisting of 2 machines, 1 Compound, 2 polishes and 4 pads the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) gives you everything you need for correction and shine in one or 2 steps. The machines designed to work with the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) The Zentool 21E is a 900W random orbital polisher with a 21mm offset stroke. Unique in the industry with an easy to grip surface, the Zentool 21E is simple to use and will get swirl free professional results with very minimal effort and time. Important to the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) the Zentool 21E was designed with a backing plate to promote in pad cooling reducing heat because of the airflow possible only through Optimum Waffle pads. Able to use both 5 and 6 inch pads the Zentool 21E is a formidable correction tool. The Zentool mini is a 3 inch random orbital polisher that allows you to get into tighter areas. With it’s 12mm offset stroke it combines both polishing and correction abilities in a easy to handle and manoeuver package. The pads of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) listed in order of cut from fast cutting to fine polishing. Hyper Foam/ wool pad. Exclusive to Optimum this pad combines a short nap foamed wool face, with a soft foam interface to follow surface contours. This pad combined with Hyper Compound will quickly correct 1500G sanding marks, and provide a surface that just requires a final polishing prior to coating or wax application. Optimums Waffle pads have some specific design elements that allow them to work efficiently as an integral part of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS). A unique Velcro backing allows air to flow through it for optimal pad cooling. The waffle surface allows for air to circulate between the pad and paint. The waffle surface also eliminates pressure points and excessive drag caused by flat pads, allowing for more efficient pad rotation. The Orange waffle pad combines cut with good polishing abilities. The orange pad can be used with Hyper Compound for light to moderate defect removal, with Hyper Intensive Polish for a one step polish that has good correction and high gloss. When minimal correction is required Hyper polish will finish down LSP ready while providing correction. The Black Waffle pad is for use with your choice of Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish. Used as the final step following correction with Hyper compound it will quickly refine the surface left by Hyper Compound. Using the Black Waffle pad will give high gloss and provide minimal correction. The Blue Waffle pad is to be used with Hyper Polish as a refinement step when dealing with difficult to correct paints. The Hyper Paint Correction System is based around the synergy of the Hyper trio and the complete Optimum line. The Hyper trio are characterised by their ease of use, efficiency and how user friendly they are. Non staining, no taping of mouldings is required, non-dusting when used according to instructions, and using inter compatible nano abrasives the trio save time and effort. No need to wipe off the residue between steps as the synergy of the HPCS allows you to refine the surface without risking towel marring and wasting time removing the minimal residue. Hyper Compound is a cutting compound that easily removes 1500G sanding marks, while providing an easy to refine surface. Used with either the Hyper Wool/foam pad or the Orange waffle pad Hyper Compound provides both cut and gloss, without dust or hazing. For very heavy correction the Optimum Double Sided Wool pad can be used effectively with Hyper Compound. Hyper Intensive Polish is a cutting polish, providing a gloss finish and moderate cutting abilities its primary use is as a one-step polish. Used with the Orange or Black waffle pad, cut and finish can be adjusted. Hyper Polish is used in conjunction with the waffle pads to refine the surface after compound, or to provide exceptional gloss on paints that do not require correction. The synergy of the complete Optimum line is highlighted with the HPCS, and the time saving realized by using this synergy are evident. For a full correction detail utilizing the Optimum line, and how it saves you time follow these simple steps. Wash the vehicle with Optimum No Rinse(ONR). Decontaminate the paint using an Optimum Clay Towel and the ONR on the surface from the wash as lubrication. Determine the level of correction required and start with your first correction step over the ONR dampened surface, no need to dry or tape off the vehicle. Dampen your chosen pad with ONR wash solution (preferably in a pad washer) and simply spray 1 shot of Hyper Compound on the pad, no need to prime the pad, nor use a large amount of product. Not over using the product is a very important aspect and requires some adaptation for most experienced polishers. It’s imperative that you use a damp pad, and that no more than 1 spray of Hyper Compound of polish be used per section. With the Hyper Paint Correction System do not prime your pads, an clean and dampen your pads after every section. Using the Zentool move it slowly over the surface with a tool speed only as high as needed to allow the backing plate to turn (2-3 on the speed dial). Excessive speed is counterproductive as it creates heat. Pressure should be avoided, just the weight of the tool is sufficient. Again this is different than with most polishing products, just like more product does not mean more results, the same goes with speed and pressure, more will potentially reduce cut and finish. Allow the Hyper Paint Correction System to do the work, not you. The pad should be cleaned of excessive product and paint residue after every section and kept clean and damp with an ONR filled pad cleaner. Once the correction step is complete on the whole vehicle, proceed to the polishing step, there is no need to wipe off the minimal Hyper Compound residue. Doing a test spot will determine if you require Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish to refine the surface to make it ready for Opti-Seal, Optimum Gloss Coat or Opti-Coat Pro(For Opti-Coat Pro the included Primer Polish should be used instead of Hyper Polish). The Polishing step should require minimal time and passes, as any correction should be done in the first step. Using the pad/polish combination of your choice refine the surface while keeping your pad clean and damp. As with Hyper Compound only one spray of product on the pad is needed. If your paint is very difficult to finish, using a clean blue waffle pad dampened in ONR without any polish will aid in removing the polish residue, working in small sections at low speed To prepare the surface for application of an Optimum coating, remove the polish residue using a Micro-Fibre Towel dampened with ONR to soften and remove the polish residue safely , then apply a mist of Optimum Paint Prep on the panel and dry off both the ONR and Paint Prep.. The ONR will easily remove the polish residue and the Optimum Paint Prep will leave the surface ready for the coating. The Paint Prep Solution has many advantages over IPA when preparing for a coating. It has higher lubricity, allowing the coating to flow out and self-level better , reducing high spots. Optimum Paint Prep also removes all traces of wax and polishing oils leaving the surface as pure as possible for the Opti-Seal, Gloss-Coat or Opti-Coat Pro to bond."
  36. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    ONR on polisher pad

    It won't make a significant difference if you clean the pad for the second panel with ONR. The Hyper Polish can be sprayed onto a dry pad and will work well. I think the advantage of using a pad which has been cleaned with ONR is firstly, you are starting with a very clean pad which is always a good idea. Secondly, my guess is the ONR is helping to spread the polish over the pad and maybe helps with lubrication. I have used Hyper Polish with dry and ONR dampened pads, the difference is not night and day, using ONR makes it slightly nicer to work with. One thing I have tried is to wash the pad in a bucket of ONR and then spin the pad on the polisher at the top of the bucket. Care is needed here as water and electricity can create some very unpleasant outcomes. The ONR bucket method is probably not as good as a fancy pad washer but is much cheaper.
  37. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    New user trying to formulate a plan

    ONR is the rinseless wash, that is you still use a bucket and wash in the normal way but instead of rinsing, you wipe off the excess water. Opti-clean is a waterless wash, here there is no need for a normal bucket, you simply spray Opti-Clean on the paint and wipe off with a clean cloth. You can use both products if the car gets very dirty i.e. spray Opti-Clean on the paint to help remove the dirt and then wash with ONR. Opti_Clean has better cleaning abilities and more lubrication than ONR so you get better cleaning and less risk of damaging the paint. Waterless washing is fine on most cars which do not get very dirty, if your choice is to stick with just waterless then buy lots of MF cloths and take your time
  38. 1 point
    Welcome to all things Optimum! I think you mean "Optimum Car Wax" not "Wash" in question #1? If so, yes, Optimum Car Wax can be a stand alone product. Obviously we recommend Optimum Car Wash, but there are quality alternatives. Most, but not all products can be interchanged with good results. We recommend the Optimum Synergy because we KNOW all our products are formulated to work together.
  39. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    I think I got some high spots

    Jasol, welcome to the Optimum Forum! I'm guessing you're right about the heat - high heat causes Coatings to flash and cure much faster. There are several possible solutions - an easy one is to add another layer of Gloss-Coat to even high spots. Another is to try a cleaner wax lightly by hand to see if you can reduce them. Since you can layer Gloss-Coat, it shouldn't be necessary to polish an entire panel. EVERYTHING is more visible on black! As you've found, light is not an absolute solution - things become visible in various lighting scenarios - sometimes twilight shows imperfections better than a spotlight. The best recommendation I can make is to do very small sections until you get a sense of how fast the Coat is flashing - you will save time in the long run
  40. 1 point
    The Guz

    2015 Impala LTZ Coated with Gloss Coat

    Well last update for this one. After a year and half it was time for a polish and re-coat. Overall gloss coat did a decent job. There was some areas that were having some performance issues before the 1 year mark. There were areas on various parts of the car that were looking like there was nothing on the paint. So I had started to use a silica spray sealant to limp along until I had time to polish and re-coat. It was polished and re-coated with another manufacturer's coating as I move on from Gloss Coat to try something else. My overall thoughts is that Gloss Coat is good for a 1 year coating. After that it starts to have some slight performance issues even after a decontamination based on experience from 3 different vehicles that I applied it to. But at it's price point it's hard to choose based on the price of other coatings who perform a bit better. The ease of use is a plus and is nice for newcomers into the coating market. It has a decent look but tends to look a little more plastic looking compared to some of the other coatings I have used. Like most coatings it has the rubbery/grabby type feeling to it. Overall it did a decent job.
  41. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti seal over wax ?

    Similar to what NoSoap answered: 1. You can layer Opti seal if you want. 2 layers are enough to cover the entire car so there are no missed spots. Opti seal does not have any solvents in it so you could apply the second layer right after the first one. The car was usually glossy enough after the first layer for me so the second layer might enhance it a bit. 2. Yes. Opti seal is a great rinse aid. I use it to dry the car after I washed it with either ONR or Car wash. 3. Which one is the ANY WAX? Joke...You can use any wax you like on top of opti seal. Give it an hour before you do so. 4. Dont really know but I would do 2 layers of Opti seal (one after another) and after 1h a layer of wax or OPT Car wax...whichever you prefer. A nice oily wax would enhance the finish even further. Of course polishing before sealing would be the best option for glossy paint.
  42. 1 point
    No Soap

    Opti seal over wax ?

    1. Layering actually means "filling the spots you maybe missed". I would do it right the first time and later on add more protecting using the product as a drying aid. There was info about the curing time on this forum in the Opti-Seal thread: 2. You can but it will not last that well. I use it always as a drying aid after the ONR wash. 3. No-one can tell but probably every wax that don't contain cleaners and stuff that remove the sealant? 4. I think Opti-Seal sheets the wax pretty quickly but maybe you would have more of a wet look for a time?
  43. 1 point
    Tempest45

    Interior cleaning.

    Opticlean is my favorite as an interior detailer.
  44. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    NEW OPTIMUM PRODUCTS - 2017 SEMA

    As stated in the SEMA broadcast, the Big Gold Sponge does not replace the BRS, but adds a softer, more dense version that coordinates with the Opti-Coat line of products. The bedliner has been reformulated into a single phase application to simplify the process. Optimum is always reviewing products to improve or increase ease of use. Toddj, thanks for the video links -
  45. 1 point
    boiler

    Opti-Glass

    Zerix, at this time there's no plan to change the formula on the retail version of Opti-Glass.
  46. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Paint protection

    Lowe is correct, GPS is a very light polish (as stated) and particularly by hand, but it's also a cleaner and sealant and does those tasks well on glass.
  47. 1 point
    A&J

    How do you prime the pad with Hyper-Polish?

    I start with 2 sprays on the pad, tap tap tap on the surface sized about 40 x 40 cm, speed 2 to cover the polish on the surface and that primes it. I then use speed 3-4 on my DA to polish. The problem with Hyper polish is that you have to clean the pad often...If you keep spraying the polish and dont clean it every now and then the pad gets overloaded with polish and especially lubricants and the polish doesnt cut as much. Ive just polished a car during the weekend using Intensive polish and Hyper polish and really the best result was after I cleaned the pads. The overloaded pad still cut but left some swirls behind so I had to do another 1-2 passes which is extra work. If you have a pad washer use that to clean the pad, if you dont spray on pure Power clean or mixed 3:1 and massage the polish out of the pad under running water. Put the pad on the machine, set to speed 3, put it into a bucket you are not using and turn it on, start with speed 3 then move to speed 6 and back to speed 3. The centrifugal force will remove most water leaving behind a damp pad ready for 1-2 sprays of Hyper polish or some other polish. I hope it helps!
  48. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    ONR Definitive Thread

    Chris Thomas OPT Regional Manager | Eastern USA Administrators 2,458 posts Posted 14 November 2008 - 01:20 AM Current version: v3 released March 2012 ONR Dilutions (Per Label): Wash solution: ratio 1:256 or 1 oz/2 gallons or 30 ml to 7.68 liters of water (3.9 ml per liter) Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon or 60 ml to 3.84 liters of water (15.6 ml per liter) Regarding quick detailer: before we introduced Optimum Instant Detailer, we listed a quick detailer dilution that has since been removed. You can still use it this way of course, but our dedicated product will perform much better. Quick Detailer: ratio 1:16 or 8 oz/1 gallon or 240 ml to 3.84 liters for water (62.5 ml per liter) Regarding the caps: 8oz size cap holds .25 oz or 7.5 ml 32oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml 128oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml Regarding hard water: You may increase the increase the ratio of the respective product dilution by 20% to adjust for minerals in water used. ONR Directions (Per Label): 1. Add 1oz to 2 gallons of water in a wash bucket 2. Soak wash media in solution and wash vehicle in sections 3. Dry each section two clean towels consecutively Alternate Method w/Presoak (Thanks SUPERBEE364 and EXCELDETAIL) 1. Spray down each panel with QD strength ONR. (pump type garden sprayer) 2. Wipe each panel down gently with a dripping wet MF from the ONR bucket. 3. Rinse and squeeze out the MF, get it dripping wet again, and redo the same panel. 4. Dry the panel with a clean MF followed by a second MF (Sup prefers to use distilled water exclusively, too.) No Rinse Guide With Pics by:Excel Detail FAQs (Thanks Dr. G, BENCE & ANTHONY O.): 1. Why does it feel slimy and not foam?: ONR should feel somewhat slimy, as this provides lubrication/encapsulation which carries away the unwanted dirt particles from the surface. This is a good slime. 2. Why is my wash media so much dirtier than when I do a traditional wash?: ONR binds the dirt to the wash media intentionally. You should change mitts as needed. They can then be soaked in regular detergent to release the dirt before rinsing or washed in the machine. 3. What are the environmental advantages?: Much less water is used by eliminating the rinsing step, not to mention on average only 2 gallons are used to wash vs. 6-10 gallons with the two bucket method (not including rinsing). Also, with a regular wash the mitt will release the dirt into the (usually 5 gallon X 2) rinse bucket, it would likely end in the storm drains when you dumped the buckets. With the ONR wash you can wash your mitts in your machine and dump the remainder of the 2 gallons of solution into the sink or toilet where the dirt goes to the right place where water can be treated/purified. Optimum Products also come packaged in HDPE bottles (which are one of the few widely recyclable plastics) 4. Should I still use the two-bucket method to prevent marring?: ONR softens water, so the bigger particles just sink to the bottom of the bucket. It's like having a built-in grit guard in the wash solution. Smaller particles end up in the wash media. 5. Is there any advantage to using DI/distilled water to make the solution?: Softer water cooperates well with ONR. ONR's actives bond to the minerals of hard waters, therefore you may add more ONR to harder waters. DI/distilled water have no such minerals and the cleaning/protecting power of ONR can be exploited without weakening. These kind of waters will feel slimier than tap water. 6. My ONR Clay lube lost its color, will it still do the job or is it ruined?: ONR may lose its color when the sun hits it directly, but this won't affect its performance. 7. My car is really dirty, should I use more of the concentrate?: Using significantly more than the recommended dosage won't multiply ONR's performance; it will work effectively with the recommended amounts. You can still fine-tune the dosage to your exact needs (soiling of the vehicle, water hardness, wash media type, etc.). (1 oz per gallon vs 1 oz per 2 gallons) Thank you for bringing up this question. The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water. The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles. The No Rinse polymers also bond to all automotive surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect paint from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted or other automotive surfaces. When you use 1 oz. of No Rinse in 1 or 2 gallons of water for your wash at the molecular level this provides hundreds of billions of polymer molecules to do what was said above. Additional product will not be necessary except if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates. In these cases some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. This is another reason why adding No Rinse to a regular car wash soap improves the results when using tap water. For claying, the recommended level is 2 oz. per gallon, however, the actual product usage is far less. For instance if you are using 16 oz. of clay lube to clay a car, at this dilution you are actually putting 1/4 oz. of No Rinse on the surface. Same thing goes for using No Rinse as a quick detailer. These levels were of course tested for several months and hundreds of washes of heavily soiled cars before we started offering No Rinse three years ago. I hope this helps answer your question. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again. Dr. G (copied from Optimum Forums Ask Dr. G section) 8. Can ONR be used to clean windows and interiors? Yes, ONR can be used for an interior and exterior glass cleaner. It can be used at the regular QD mix.....a bit stronger if you're doing nasty windows and a bit less if doing more regular upkeep type cars. If you notice streaks and smears then you need to cut it back with water. ONR Technique (Thanks SCOTTWAX): Body: YouTube - Washing a Cayenne with ONR Wheels: YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 1 YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 2 Engine: http://www.autopia.o...ine-detail.html Claying: YouTube - Claying with Optimum No Rinse Touch-ups: YouTube - ONR vs bird bomb Fenderwells:YouTube - Fenderwell cleaning with Optimum No Rinse Wash ONR Wash Media Threads: http://www.autopia.o...do-you-use.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-mitt.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html ONR Capabilities Threads: http://www.autopia.o...hed-limits.html http://www.autopia.o...onr-thread.html http://www.autopia.o...-silverado.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-pics.html http://www.autopia.o...9-onr-time.html http://www.autopia.o...s-stunning.html http://www.autopia.o...timony-onr.html http://www.autopia.o...ics-inside.html dervdave, SmoogAerornug, Calialick and 29 others like this Chris ThomasRegional Manager | Eastern USA Optimum Polymer Technologies, INC m: 931-267-2500 f: 866-441-7826
  49. 1 point
    Opti-Bond contains no petroleum distillates which are known to crack rubber and vinyl. It contains advanced UV and ozone protectants to shield surfaces from sun damage and environmental pollution. Rubber and vinyl surfaces will remain supple, flexible and retain their color with regular use of Opti-Bond.
  50. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    Opti-Seal Q&A

    You're using too much product. An iPad is a pretty small area for one spray of product. With all due respect, this product has been around since 2007, and if it wasn't a "true WOWA" you wouldn't have been the first one to figure that out. There is a small learning curve to this product, i.e. how much to use, how far to spread, in order for it to behave in the expected fashion. And it's pretty simple, you just need to get the product spread out thin enough to be able to "walk away". If you are using too much product for the surface area you have, you will be unable to get it spread to the required "thinness", and then it will leave residue as you are experiencing. There's a few (tens of thousands) of us who have been able apply this product without incident; you simply need to adjust your technique. Maybe try it on your car?