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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Ron@Optimum

    OPTIMUM GELCOAT RESTORER

    Optimum Gelcoat Restorer (GCR) is engineered to return Gelcoat to its factory finish without the need for polishing. GCR rebuilds the Gelcoat keeping the original thickness and restoring the gloss. GCR will restore your Gelcoat and protect it with its included UV protection.• Easy to use.• No polishing required. • Long term durability. • Easy to maintain. Directions: 1. Remove loose oxidation using pure Optimum Power Clean and a brush or mild scuff pad. 2. Rinse the surface thoroughly and dry. 3. Wearing gloves and eye protection, apply GCR to the surface in overlapping circular motions. If the Gelcoat was heavily oxidized, the GCR will soak in. Do not over apply. 4. Once dry to the touch (20-30 minutes), apply a second coat. 5. Depending on the level of oxidation, up to 4 coats may be required. 6. To maintain the restored surface, wash with Optimum No Rinse (ONR) and apply Optimum Car Wax regularly.
  2. 2 points
    theTHiiiNG

    Optimum Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL

    For the last 2 weeks I've been trialing a test of Optimum's Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL. This was very subjective, and hopefully honest test. Spoiler alert - I will start out by saying both products are fantastic and are more than worthy of purchasing. I didn't get any great photos as it was too hard to tell the subtle differences between them so you will have to take my word for it. Both products are water based and can be diluted if needed/desired. Optimum Opti-Bond + Leaves a perfectly smooth high gloss finish with no greasy residue + Can be diluted further to reduce gloss (I wouldn't go past 1:1 as the consistency gets... weird) + Very good value for money (as usual with Optimum) + Although not really obvious, can be used on external (and even internal) plastic trim and rubber + Still going strong after 2 weeks in a daily driven car in a variety of weather + Does not appear blotchy or streaky if applied unevenly - The smell is hard to describe, but it's not great - Has trouble bonding to older rubber that has started to dry - The high gloss look may not be desirable for some Applied undiluted to the tyre. CarPro PERL + Produces a fantastic satin finish on everything it touches + Has some kind of darkening effect built in that makes rubber look new + Smells amazing! + Can be diluted down for use on leather and plastic if needed + Very good value for money when purchased in the 1 litre size - Produced an unsightly cheap silicone look in direct sunlight when used at full strength (on tyres at least) - If you are after a high gloss, wet look, this may not be the best choice - Durability on tyres is only average. Starting to noticabley drop off after 2 weeks - Due to the darkening effect, it can appear 'patchy' if you don't apply it evenly Applied undiluted to the tyre. Both products perform great once you get the hang of the quirks each have. For instance - PERL will leave a streaky finish if not wiped down soon after applying and Opti-Bond turns into a really weird consistency if you dilute it too much. I will say that a huge downside to PERL is when applied at full strength to tyres it has a horrible cheap silicone dressing look to it when hit by full sunlight. I took my car to a friends house to actually show it off after washing it on the weekend and this actually made me embarrassed when he saw it. I would happily choose and love using either product, but if I had to go with only one I would give the very slightest advantage to Opti-Bond. I think the name should be changed to Opti-Bond External Trim and Tire Gel as in my experience it actually outperformed PERL on external plastic. I applied it to my mothers car which had very faded external plastic trim, and upon seeing the car weeks later it was still performing well even though it sits outside 24/7. If you have any experiences with either of these products please let me know!
  3. 2 points
    Lowejackson

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    To listen to some British guy talking about detailing efficiency on the Synergy Podcast. Or perhaps I should say 'to listen to me talking about detailing efficiency'. https://optimumsynergypodcast.libsyn.com/lean-processing-next-level-efficiency
  4. 2 points
    The Guz

    Decon Process

    Do you have water spots on the car? If not then no need to use MDR. Keep it simple and this is what I would do 1. Ferrex. If the paint is not that dirty you can use that over the dry surface to not dilute the product with water. If it is too dirty wash and dry first then use Ferrex. 2. Rinse the Ferrex from the surface and proceed with your normal wash 3. Clay 4. Paint prep if you want to take an additional step after claying to remove any clay lube residue. No need for an additional wash. 5. Polish 6. Protect 7. Maintain
  5. 1 point
    A&J

    Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS)

    I have stumbled upon this thread on Autopia.org forum that I have found very interesting to read infact so much so I have decided to post it here for anyone interested in it. The post is from Yvan Lacroix describing the Hyper paint correction system. "Optimum Polymer Technologies Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) is a simple system designed to give superior results in less time while using less product. It’s a complete system designed to be simple to use and efficient without creating dust, or the need to tape off plastic mouldings. Consisting of 2 machines, 1 Compound, 2 polishes and 4 pads the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) gives you everything you need for correction and shine in one or 2 steps. The machines designed to work with the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) The Zentool 21E is a 900W random orbital polisher with a 21mm offset stroke. Unique in the industry with an easy to grip surface, the Zentool 21E is simple to use and will get swirl free professional results with very minimal effort and time. Important to the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) the Zentool 21E was designed with a backing plate to promote in pad cooling reducing heat because of the airflow possible only through Optimum Waffle pads. Able to use both 5 and 6 inch pads the Zentool 21E is a formidable correction tool. The Zentool mini is a 3 inch random orbital polisher that allows you to get into tighter areas. With it’s 12mm offset stroke it combines both polishing and correction abilities in a easy to handle and manoeuver package. The pads of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS) listed in order of cut from fast cutting to fine polishing. Hyper Foam/ wool pad. Exclusive to Optimum this pad combines a short nap foamed wool face, with a soft foam interface to follow surface contours. This pad combined with Hyper Compound will quickly correct 1500G sanding marks, and provide a surface that just requires a final polishing prior to coating or wax application. Optimums Waffle pads have some specific design elements that allow them to work efficiently as an integral part of the Hyper Paint Correction System (HPCS). A unique Velcro backing allows air to flow through it for optimal pad cooling. The waffle surface allows for air to circulate between the pad and paint. The waffle surface also eliminates pressure points and excessive drag caused by flat pads, allowing for more efficient pad rotation. The Orange waffle pad combines cut with good polishing abilities. The orange pad can be used with Hyper Compound for light to moderate defect removal, with Hyper Intensive Polish for a one step polish that has good correction and high gloss. When minimal correction is required Hyper polish will finish down LSP ready while providing correction. The Black Waffle pad is for use with your choice of Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish. Used as the final step following correction with Hyper compound it will quickly refine the surface left by Hyper Compound. Using the Black Waffle pad will give high gloss and provide minimal correction. The Blue Waffle pad is to be used with Hyper Polish as a refinement step when dealing with difficult to correct paints. The Hyper Paint Correction System is based around the synergy of the Hyper trio and the complete Optimum line. The Hyper trio are characterised by their ease of use, efficiency and how user friendly they are. Non staining, no taping of mouldings is required, non-dusting when used according to instructions, and using inter compatible nano abrasives the trio save time and effort. No need to wipe off the residue between steps as the synergy of the HPCS allows you to refine the surface without risking towel marring and wasting time removing the minimal residue. Hyper Compound is a cutting compound that easily removes 1500G sanding marks, while providing an easy to refine surface. Used with either the Hyper Wool/foam pad or the Orange waffle pad Hyper Compound provides both cut and gloss, without dust or hazing. For very heavy correction the Optimum Double Sided Wool pad can be used effectively with Hyper Compound. Hyper Intensive Polish is a cutting polish, providing a gloss finish and moderate cutting abilities its primary use is as a one-step polish. Used with the Orange or Black waffle pad, cut and finish can be adjusted. Hyper Polish is used in conjunction with the waffle pads to refine the surface after compound, or to provide exceptional gloss on paints that do not require correction. The synergy of the complete Optimum line is highlighted with the HPCS, and the time saving realized by using this synergy are evident. For a full correction detail utilizing the Optimum line, and how it saves you time follow these simple steps. Wash the vehicle with Optimum No Rinse(ONR). Decontaminate the paint using an Optimum Clay Towel and the ONR on the surface from the wash as lubrication. Determine the level of correction required and start with your first correction step over the ONR dampened surface, no need to dry or tape off the vehicle. Dampen your chosen pad with ONR wash solution (preferably in a pad washer) and simply spray 1 shot of Hyper Compound on the pad, no need to prime the pad, nor use a large amount of product. Not over using the product is a very important aspect and requires some adaptation for most experienced polishers. It’s imperative that you use a damp pad, and that no more than 1 spray of Hyper Compound of polish be used per section. With the Hyper Paint Correction System do not prime your pads, an clean and dampen your pads after every section. Using the Zentool move it slowly over the surface with a tool speed only as high as needed to allow the backing plate to turn (2-3 on the speed dial). Excessive speed is counterproductive as it creates heat. Pressure should be avoided, just the weight of the tool is sufficient. Again this is different than with most polishing products, just like more product does not mean more results, the same goes with speed and pressure, more will potentially reduce cut and finish. Allow the Hyper Paint Correction System to do the work, not you. The pad should be cleaned of excessive product and paint residue after every section and kept clean and damp with an ONR filled pad cleaner. Once the correction step is complete on the whole vehicle, proceed to the polishing step, there is no need to wipe off the minimal Hyper Compound residue. Doing a test spot will determine if you require Hyper Intensive Polish or Hyper Polish to refine the surface to make it ready for Opti-Seal, Optimum Gloss Coat or Opti-Coat Pro(For Opti-Coat Pro the included Primer Polish should be used instead of Hyper Polish). The Polishing step should require minimal time and passes, as any correction should be done in the first step. Using the pad/polish combination of your choice refine the surface while keeping your pad clean and damp. As with Hyper Compound only one spray of product on the pad is needed. If your paint is very difficult to finish, using a clean blue waffle pad dampened in ONR without any polish will aid in removing the polish residue, working in small sections at low speed To prepare the surface for application of an Optimum coating, remove the polish residue using a Micro-Fibre Towel dampened with ONR to soften and remove the polish residue safely , then apply a mist of Optimum Paint Prep on the panel and dry off both the ONR and Paint Prep.. The ONR will easily remove the polish residue and the Optimum Paint Prep will leave the surface ready for the coating. The Paint Prep Solution has many advantages over IPA when preparing for a coating. It has higher lubricity, allowing the coating to flow out and self-level better , reducing high spots. Optimum Paint Prep also removes all traces of wax and polishing oils leaving the surface as pure as possible for the Opti-Seal, Gloss-Coat or Opti-Coat Pro to bond."
  6. 1 point
    Typhoon43

    New Member: Central Florida Hellcat

    Glad to finally be on board. I took the plunge and had my 2017 Black Charger Hellcat done in Opti Coat Pro+ and Opti Coat Pro on the wheels. I'll be waiting the 7 days before the first wash, but that's approaching so I wanted to make sure I did everything right. I was given the Optimum Maintenance Wash and a Bottle of Opti-Seal. Am I supposed to wash the car with the maint wash and then use the Opti-Seal right after? Everything I see shows using the OptiSeal as a "wet drying agent" to be applied when the car is wet, and then dry it with a microfiber cloth. I actually blow dry my vehicle with a handheld Makita unit, so I'm just trying to figure out my strategy. For this first wash should I just ditch the blower and use microfiber towels with Opti-Seal instead? Threw in a pic from about 10 minutes after I grabbed her from the Detailer. I'm in love.
  7. 1 point
    Setec Astronomy

    How to remove Opti Seal?

    You want me watch a 34 minute video?? Ain't nobody got time for that!!
  8. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    New Member From VA

    Welcome to the Optimum Forum - lot's of smart people here willing to help!
  9. 1 point
    Lowejackson

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    A coating makes such a difference, it really is worth the effort. I was intrigued by Yvans comments of using Power Clean with a foamer as a more effective way of cleaning dirty wheels compared to just spraying PC
  10. 1 point
    theTHiiiNG

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    It depends on how dirty they are, but since switching to ceramic pads I usually just use normal car shampoo with a little wheel cleaner added in. Since it foams so much I don't need much product - probably only about 50ml of product to 700ml of water. It does make a little bit of a mess on the garage floor, especially if your wheels are really dirty. In the end I was backing the car out of the garage and cleaning the wheels with a hose and the IK Foam sprayer in the traditional way and then pulling it back in and doing my normal ONR wash.
  11. 1 point
    A&J

    HPCS without ONR

    ...or buy ONR and thank me later
  12. 1 point
    I agree with using ONR instead of OID. It provides a lot more lubrication and is very quick to do. If the car really isn't dirty and has just been rained on you could fill a pump sprayer with ONR solution and completely cover the car in it then proceed to dry with a proper drying towel. Just curious though, why do you need to dry it after being rained on?
  13. 1 point
    @Setec Astronomy Thanks for your sharing your experience. This is very disappointing as a year or less is really no longer than potentially applying a standard paint sealant ( or a lens sealant in the cheap headlight restoration kits). From what I have researched here and other boards, Opti-lens is specifically formulated to bond to plastic such that it performs better when the factory clear coat has been fully removed. It there is still factory clear coat on lens (not started to yellow), it is best just to use standard paint coatings (Gloss-coat or Opti-coat pro). I think one the main contributors to lens failure is road rash (mileage with lots of exposure to small rocks). One of the clients I applied Opti-lens to commutes 150 km round trip daily on on the 401 Hwy in Ontario. So we'll see in a year if he experiences the same premature failure that you have experienced. I know for my personal vehicle (2011 BMW 328xi wagon) I have installed XPEL PPF on the headlight lens to protect from road debris that can lead to clear coat failure on the lens. I wonder if I should be combining Opti-lens with application PPF after 1 week cure time.
  14. 1 point
    A&J

    Opti-Clean & OCW?

    It would be interesting if someone tested and compared mixing: - 10% Opti-seal to 90% ONR at QD dilution - 10% OCW to 90% ONR at QD dilution - 10% OCW to 90% OID - 10% Opti-seal to 90% OID - 10% OCW to 90% Opti clean - 10% Opti-seal to 90% Opti clean 10% is just a reference point...it could be more or less. I volunteer for the 3 Opti seal mixes! Anyone else wanna have a go?
  15. 1 point
    funny to see Dann listed as "new to the Forum" - while not active on the OPT Forum, Dann is anything but new to Optimum. A past pro installer, Regional Manager, and current VP of Business Development, Dann is as knowledgeable as anyone could hope for and a welcome voice here!
  16. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Opti-Coat M-Wash and Foam Cannon

    the foam cannon ratio is the same - .5 oz to 1 gallon of water. You can store the remainder but not indefinitely - depending on the water quality (distilled water is best) and bacteria introduced by equipment, the mixture can become funky (chemical term) and need to be replaced.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks all. Yes, considering how many anti-Optimum videos he's done, I was surprised he mentioned using ONR again. Scott has put out some great videos, but I don't get the Optimum hatred.
  18. 1 point
    I˙ll join the party. Interiors are usually a clean place and if you clean your car with ONR every week just soak a towel with it and wipe the interior with that. Like everyone else I use one or the other. If I want a quick fix Ill grab my opti clean sprayer and spray and wipe. Both work fine...dont overthink it.
  19. 1 point
    Yvan

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Yes, wash with Optimum No Rinse(ONR), and enjoy.
  20. 1 point
    Yvan

    Big red sponge with the soap

    The Big Red Sponge can be used with soap, but it doesn’t work well, the Sponge gets loaded. The new Opti-Coat Big Gold Sponge works just as well with both Optimum No Rinse(ONR) and Car Wash Soap.
  21. 1 point
    Yvan

    Opti-Pro Consistent Marring

    Maxima 777 Thank you for bringing this issue to our attention. As noted above you have been speaking with Dann Williams, our Director of business development, and he is guiding your claim through the process. We need to be thorough and make sure everything is done following our established procedures to make sure that you’re situation is resolved correctly. This may take longer than you wish, but in the end it’s for your benefit. If I can be of assistance I can be reached at 1 901 907 1957 from 7am to 10pm eastern time. You can reach me by email at yvan@opticoat.com. Mack Gregory, our Opti-Coat PPF Manager is available from 7am to 10pm Central Time. Mack can be reached at ‭1 (901) 461-4870‬, or mack@opticoat.com. For others that may need it Dann Williams can be reached at dann@opticoat.com or ‭1 (619) 952-4814‬ from 7am to 10pm pacific time.
  22. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Poli-seal on glass, plastic, and rubber

    well, Poli-Seal is a polish (as well as cleaner/sealant), so there can be white residue on trim and glass. It comes off easily with an ONR dampened micro fiber towel.
  23. 1 point
    A&J

    OCW application and streaking

    Yes exactly like that!
  24. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    Paint protection

    Lowe is correct, GPS is a very light polish (as stated) and particularly by hand, but it's also a cleaner and sealant and does those tasks well on glass.
  25. 1 point
    Ron@Optimum

    ONR Definitive Thread

    Chris Thomas OPT Regional Manager | Eastern USA Administrators 2,458 posts Posted 14 November 2008 - 01:20 AM Current version: v3 released March 2012 ONR Dilutions (Per Label): Wash solution: ratio 1:256 or 1 oz/2 gallons or 30 ml to 7.68 liters of water (3.9 ml per liter) Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon or 60 ml to 3.84 liters of water (15.6 ml per liter) Regarding quick detailer: before we introduced Optimum Instant Detailer, we listed a quick detailer dilution that has since been removed. You can still use it this way of course, but our dedicated product will perform much better. Quick Detailer: ratio 1:16 or 8 oz/1 gallon or 240 ml to 3.84 liters for water (62.5 ml per liter) Regarding the caps: 8oz size cap holds .25 oz or 7.5 ml 32oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml 128oz size cap holds .5 oz or 15 ml Regarding hard water: You may increase the increase the ratio of the respective product dilution by 20% to adjust for minerals in water used. ONR Directions (Per Label): 1. Add 1oz to 2 gallons of water in a wash bucket 2. Soak wash media in solution and wash vehicle in sections 3. Dry each section two clean towels consecutively Alternate Method w/Presoak (Thanks SUPERBEE364 and EXCELDETAIL) 1. Spray down each panel with QD strength ONR. (pump type garden sprayer) 2. Wipe each panel down gently with a dripping wet MF from the ONR bucket. 3. Rinse and squeeze out the MF, get it dripping wet again, and redo the same panel. 4. Dry the panel with a clean MF followed by a second MF (Sup prefers to use distilled water exclusively, too.) No Rinse Guide With Pics by:Excel Detail FAQs (Thanks Dr. G, BENCE & ANTHONY O.): 1. Why does it feel slimy and not foam?: ONR should feel somewhat slimy, as this provides lubrication/encapsulation which carries away the unwanted dirt particles from the surface. This is a good slime. 2. Why is my wash media so much dirtier than when I do a traditional wash?: ONR binds the dirt to the wash media intentionally. You should change mitts as needed. They can then be soaked in regular detergent to release the dirt before rinsing or washed in the machine. 3. What are the environmental advantages?: Much less water is used by eliminating the rinsing step, not to mention on average only 2 gallons are used to wash vs. 6-10 gallons with the two bucket method (not including rinsing). Also, with a regular wash the mitt will release the dirt into the (usually 5 gallon X 2) rinse bucket, it would likely end in the storm drains when you dumped the buckets. With the ONR wash you can wash your mitts in your machine and dump the remainder of the 2 gallons of solution into the sink or toilet where the dirt goes to the right place where water can be treated/purified. Optimum Products also come packaged in HDPE bottles (which are one of the few widely recyclable plastics) 4. Should I still use the two-bucket method to prevent marring?: ONR softens water, so the bigger particles just sink to the bottom of the bucket. It's like having a built-in grit guard in the wash solution. Smaller particles end up in the wash media. 5. Is there any advantage to using DI/distilled water to make the solution?: Softer water cooperates well with ONR. ONR's actives bond to the minerals of hard waters, therefore you may add more ONR to harder waters. DI/distilled water have no such minerals and the cleaning/protecting power of ONR can be exploited without weakening. These kind of waters will feel slimier than tap water. 6. My ONR Clay lube lost its color, will it still do the job or is it ruined?: ONR may lose its color when the sun hits it directly, but this won't affect its performance. 7. My car is really dirty, should I use more of the concentrate?: Using significantly more than the recommended dosage won't multiply ONR's performance; it will work effectively with the recommended amounts. You can still fine-tune the dosage to your exact needs (soiling of the vehicle, water hardness, wash media type, etc.). (1 oz per gallon vs 1 oz per 2 gallons) Thank you for bringing up this question. The polymers in No Rinse have reactive groups that bond and trap dirt particles making the dirt particles virtually non-abrasive. They also bond to oily particles and emulsify them into water. The latter is equivalent to the cleaning action from soaps which also work by emulsifying oil particles into water. However, with soap there is no interaction with dirt. This is why adding No Rinse to a regular wash also helps protect the paint from dirt particles. The No Rinse polymers also bond to all automotive surfaces and create a slick surface and act as a barrier to protect paint from marring. That is something that soap will not provide since surfactants in soaps have no affinity for painted or other automotive surfaces. When you use 1 oz. of No Rinse in 1 or 2 gallons of water for your wash at the molecular level this provides hundreds of billions of polymer molecules to do what was said above. Additional product will not be necessary except if you are using tap water that contains high levels of minerals such as calcium hydroxide or silicates. In these cases some of the polymers will bond to these minerals and take them out of solution therefore more product might be necessary to compensate for this effect. This is another reason why adding No Rinse to a regular car wash soap improves the results when using tap water. For claying, the recommended level is 2 oz. per gallon, however, the actual product usage is far less. For instance if you are using 16 oz. of clay lube to clay a car, at this dilution you are actually putting 1/4 oz. of No Rinse on the surface. Same thing goes for using No Rinse as a quick detailer. These levels were of course tested for several months and hundreds of washes of heavily soiled cars before we started offering No Rinse three years ago. I hope this helps answer your question. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again. Dr. G (copied from Optimum Forums Ask Dr. G section) 8. Can ONR be used to clean windows and interiors? Yes, ONR can be used for an interior and exterior glass cleaner. It can be used at the regular QD mix.....a bit stronger if you're doing nasty windows and a bit less if doing more regular upkeep type cars. If you notice streaks and smears then you need to cut it back with water. ONR Technique (Thanks SCOTTWAX): Body: YouTube - Washing a Cayenne with ONR Wheels: YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 1 YouTube - Optimum No Rinse and wheels part 2 Engine: http://www.autopia.o...ine-detail.html Claying: YouTube - Claying with Optimum No Rinse Touch-ups: YouTube - ONR vs bird bomb Fenderwells:YouTube - Fenderwell cleaning with Optimum No Rinse Wash ONR Wash Media Threads: http://www.autopia.o...do-you-use.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-mitt.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html http://www.autopia.o...-onr-media.html ONR Capabilities Threads: http://www.autopia.o...hed-limits.html http://www.autopia.o...onr-thread.html http://www.autopia.o...-silverado.html http://www.autopia.o...e-onr-pics.html http://www.autopia.o...9-onr-time.html http://www.autopia.o...s-stunning.html http://www.autopia.o...timony-onr.html http://www.autopia.o...ics-inside.html dervdave, SmoogAerornug, Calialick and 29 others like this Chris ThomasRegional Manager | Eastern USA Optimum Polymer Technologies, INC m: 931-267-2500 f: 866-441-7826