This thread is setup to keep all questions and answers in one area
concerning the new Opti-Seal.
Members are invited to post questions found on other forums here.

Dose Opti-seal lock in my Carnauba?
No. The solvents will dissolves carnauba floating it to the top of the
Opti-Seal. This fact holds true with any solvent based WOWA sealant.
The carnauba is not removed just repositioned.

Can I layer Opti-Seal?
Yes you can. For best results you should do this with 12 to 24 hour intervals.
If you do it after an hour it will be the same as if you applied a heavy coat of the product.

How many times do I have to pump the sprayer to = 1oz. of product?
Close to 200 pumps It should only take 20 pumps to coat a two door sedan.

Talk about 'Panic in needle park' [great 70's movie] seems like the 'kids' are jumping out of there car seats for this stuff!!!!
Antony O. sayed on another froum he wouldn't use 'IT' on glass.... I love CS on glass .. specially when you have 10 windows facing the bay !!!!

Welcome Bob who.
Are you talking about the SF Bay?

You can apply O-S to wheels, hard trim and glass.
If you find other uses for it that is a +

Testers have reported that OS has a look to it, can you describe the effect it has on paint?

OS Look .. Kind of like Kate Moss meets 'Dog' the bounty hunter !!!!

Thanks for the Q & A section. will be good stating point for all the questions that will be out, once it hits the market and people start using it.

You have to release this soon[OS] the 'girls' on that other forum are getting crazy !!!!

Dose Opti-seal lock in my Carnauba?
No. The solvents will dissolves carnauba floating it to the top of the
Opti-Seal. This fact holds true with any solvent based WOWA sealant.
The carnauba is not removed just repositioned.

So how do you recommend using Opti-Seal with carnauba, or do you? Should you top the Opti-Seal with a carnauba (paste, liquid) if you want the carnauba look or should you top the carnauba with the Opti-Seal for durability?

Both methods in theory should give the same results. If it were me I would apply the Carnauba first.
Doing this will help the foam applicator pad glide across the paint much easier.

My wife's black Expedition has two coats of the Opti-Seal.
Last week after two different rain storms that she had to drive through
she told me that her car looked cleaner than it should.
Yesterday We picked up her car from her moms house. She lives in the country on a dirt road.
Saturday it rained all day with an Ice storm that came through that night.
I would have thought the car looked like crap. After seeing it yesterday it didn't look
that bad at all. It is dirty but nothing like it usually is after this type of weather. I will post some pictures this weekend when I wash it.

Would like to know if i can use opti-seal over the twins. I have a silver metallic mazda5 and want more of a wet look on it. also when is opti-seal going to be put out in the market to be sold?. Hope it's what i'm looking for. thank you

You can apply it over anything except dirt!
Make sure that all polish and product haze is removed first.
If your car is still leaking water from the cracks it is best that you blow them out.
The product will streak a little when it is mixed with water.

As for the release. Optimum is waiting for the labels to be delivered to the plant.
All raw materials are in as well as the 8oz bottles.

We are at the dawn of a new era in the car care world.
This product is just a small step for things to come. Optimum will continue to push the envelope
providing it's users products that will give you more shine in less time.

Thank you Ron, can't wait for it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Are there any obvious issues with using it over OP or OC? I mean both leave some oils behind, wouldnt that hinder adhesion? I finally have some to try, and Im off for 5 days!

I have not had any at all. Other then going over some polish that didn't get wiped off.

With opti-seal are there going to be any restrictions on what kind of applicator to use or if it should be never washed (like the condtions that CS requires)? Mike...

Do you recommend spraying directly onto paint when applying or on the pad first? Do you use a pad or a mf? How long does it take to blend in/disappear, in order to tell if we have complete coverage?

We have found the 2 foam applicators that will be supplied to be the best.
I have had many uses from the same one. I usualy rinse it out with dish soap and water.
You Must let it dry fully before you use it again.

The cotton ones sold by the competition don't apply the product evenly from
what we have found.

We have been priming the pad with one or two pumps when we start. Then you can spray staright to the finish.
If it is a windy day you may want to spray pad if you cant find an enclosed area.

Weather conditions will change the evap times I have found the first panel to be dry by the time I finish.
If you want to add a second coat clean your windowa or wheels and tires and come back. About 10 to 15 min.

A little trick I have found is to burnish the finish after the car is complete.
about 20 minits after final application is done.
What I do is use an ultra plush MF towel Spray one time with the Optimum spray wax
and lightley buff the paint in a rapid manor. Like the shoe shine guys do. Just gives the finish a little extra gloss.

Sounds easy enough! Thanks Ron

has anyone tried this over something like rmg yet? Will that work?

I haven't done this but You should not have any problems.

I have found that products with lots of oils or silacone will create a little streaking in areas
as well as enhance the oily finish a little.

To correct this problem just let the sealant set up for 20 to 30 minuets and burnish the paint with a MF and spray wax or your choice of QD

I have Klasse AIO and SG left over from last year. Is Opti-Seal compatible with Klasse? I am hoping to apply one coat AIO, one coat SG and two coats Opti-Seal.

I would think you would have no problem with that. I think Klasse plays pretty well with lsp.

1. Does OS provide any UV protection? The reason I ask is because my car will be exposed to the tropical sun about 10 hours a day - year round.

2. What type of beading should be expected (sealant-ish or carnauba-ish)?

TIA.

Yes it does have UV protection and your beading really depends on how the water hits the car. If you're in a light drizzle then you'll notice small beads but if caught in a heavy rain then you'll notice the water gathering and rolling off the paint, especially if driving in heavy rain.

If washing and you rinse with a flow of water you should have very little water left on your cars surface......if you dry with a leaf blower you should only need a towel to blot of some drips.

Anthony

Yesterday I finished a multi step polish-wax of my 928...OP-PS-then trade secret.......of course my OS showed up after I was done!! So I put a layer of it on top of the TS.....I just finished....it had a little streaking,,,but that came off with a slightly damp MF towel.....its too dark to take it out in the sun...I'll put on another coat tomorrow and take some pics!

So, now that we've had some timego bye, which is the best way to use OS with carnauba. Ron said either SHOULD work. What actually DOES work?
...and could they be alternately applied, in a layering fashion?

I do not like to use Optiseal with any carnauba mainly because I like the looks of the Optiseal by itself. It seems everyone wants to use with a wax but I have no idea why?

Polish the paint properly, apply the Optiseal and you're done...... if anything I'll go over it with some OCW.

Anthony

I like to go over the OS with a MF that has a few sprays of OSW, it really makes the finish look super wet and reflective. I learned this from one of Ron's posts and usually I wait about 30-40 minutes after applying OS to wipe down with OSW. I still feel like I am cheating everytime I use OS because it is so easy but, looks so good. Mike...

How long should we allow to cure? I have had a similar product that did not want any rain or weather to it for 24 hours. Is this the case for OS?

How long does it take to dry in average conditions?

If layering the ideal wait time would be 15 to 24 hours BUT I have applied 4 layers one hour apart and it worked perfect. Now as for rain on the surface...that doesn't matter with Optiseal.

Optiseal should start to dry right after being applied to paint. Start at one end of a fender and by the time you reach the other end your starting point should be dry.

Anthony

How about OS and chrome?

It works well on my chrome bumpers!!!

One thing I noticed today a couple weeks after I first applied OS....is the paint is still super smooth....much smoother after the same time frame than anything else I have ever used......a damp MF towel just glides accross the surface....very slick!

I tried opti-seal and the results are very demonstrable. Opti-seal has out performed anything I have used to date. I was wondering if there was any merit to polycharging, and if so, which one? If this has been asked before my apologies.

I would have no idea about the polycharger but my guess would be that if it did anything it would perhaps be in the way of smaller water beads as that seemed to be the only effect on Zaino CS with added polycharger according to one gentleman who tried it. It didn't seem to do a great deal in terms of added durability.

I look at it this way....OptiSeal is so easy to apply that I have no problem with adding a layer every month or so

If you try the polycharger let us know your thoughts.

Anthony

Point well taken. I'll stick to a more frequent application given its ease of use.

Hello from Scotland.

I've been using ONR for a year or so now - I love it and never do traditional washes on my car now.

I've just started to use Poli-seal and Opti-Seal which again I love.

I have a black/pearl Toyota Corolla D4-D and would like to throw P21s wax into the mix. This is my plan of attack;

1/ Poli-Seal
2/ P21s layer
3/ P21s layer
4/ Opti-Seal Layer
5/ Opti-Seal Layer

Is the above reasonable? I'm hoping Opti-Seal will help with the P21s durability as we approach another Scottish winter.

replies/suggestions most appreciated.

--
Paddy

Just found this forum - Already asked this via email, but no response yet... So here goes:

I like to use products that work well with each other... both synthetics and carnaubas. That is what attracted me to Opti-Seal. I can use it over either.

So... Just applied my first coats of Opti-Seal - OUTSTANDING result!! Thanks for a cool product.

Going forward, what is the best QD to use over/with/between Opti-Seal layers?

Or will all the usual suspects work well (Pinnacle Crystal Mist, 425, Sonus Spritzes...)?

I also understand Opti-seal plays well over Danase WetGlaze (Acrylic based) and Souveran/Carnaubas, so I can make a layer "sandwiches" in the future.... Correct? - But I still want to use a QD that plays well with Opti-Seal. Thanks in advance for the advice

Hello!

Thanks for stopping by and I love your beautiful country.

For the detailing of your Toyota I would skip the Poli-Seal for Optimum Polish and then use only one layer of P21S.

I know there is debate over layering wax and I'm in the camp that it does no good. Wax does not bond to paint but rather lays a micro thin layer on top of the paint. Adding more layers will only remove or replace the first layer as it can't be layered.

Give that first wax layer a few hours before applying your first OptiSeal layer, then you can layer OptiSeal about every 5 hours after that initial layer.

With the PoliSeal plus the P21S plus the OptiSeal you may run into some smearing/hazing issues which is why I recommend going with the Polish rather than the PoliSeal.

Post up some pictures when done and happy detailing

Anthony

Hello and welcome to the forum

I use Hi-Temps QD for all my cars finished with OptiSeal, PoliSeal or OCW. It's just as good as any overly high priced QD but costs a lot less. Works great, smells great and leaves a nice slick finish. I'm not sure I would use an acrylic QD though on top of OptiSeal....I'm thinking that may cause some issues.....maybe.

As for the acrylic Danase product I'm not sure of, or any acrylic product, as I have never used one in conjunction with OptiSeal. I'm one for using OptiSeal all on its own and very rarely do I ever top it, or any other lsp I am applying. About all I do is maybe go over PoliSeal with OCW.

Happy to see you like the products and look forward to seeing some pictures of your car when done.

Take care,
Anthony

Thanks, Anthony! Do you think FK1 425 would work?

I also received a suggestion to use ONR 6 ounces per gallon as a QD. Thoughts?

Also, I did a search and I can't find and exact match for the Hi-Temp product you described at: http://www.hitempinc.com/polish_wax_seal/. Can you direct me to info/vendor?

Also, I took pics on my cell phone, but they really don't do the OS justice. It looked so much better than the cell pics showed! OS is really a product unlike any other I've used.

So, imagine this: It's a brand new S63 AMG Black on Black. As a Souveran afficionado, I was pleasantly surprised that a your polymer imparted/preserved so much depth! With all the advances in chemistry, I may use Souveran less and less....

Hi Anthony - thanks for the reply

The Toyota is very much a work in process. It's a 2004 that I've had for about two months.

The dealer did a great job at hiding the true nature of the paint - did I get a shock when I first washed it.

The car had a fair amount of minor scratches, and absolutely covered in holograms.

Every weekend for the last two month I've been working on it. Compounded a lot of the minors scratches and wet sanded some deeper ones. I've also scratchX'd the entire car to remove the holograms. So it's getting there

The next task is the stone chips on the bonnet. This is the only thing I was aware of when I bought the car. I'm just waiting on the dealer supplying the paint.

When I read the above back, it makes me wonder why I bought the car, just goes to show how good some 'filler' products really are.

Anyway when it comes to it, I've really enjoyed the effort I've put into it, and now the car is starting to show the benefits of it.

--
Paddy

hi from Cardiff, just tried o-s but not sure if I've done it correctly. I've tried to keep it thin but maybe gonre to far - should the applicator leave an oily film after wiping fora couple of seconds and glide very easily? The applicator glided but sounded dry on the paint,have I used too little?
My car looks shiny but was waxed 2 weeks ago.
I think I'll wash and reapply next week to be safe - any tips on the best way to ensure the best saturation of o-s?

GARFY,

I usually prim the pad with a couple of squirts. Then apply. It will have a slight film that will evaporate in a few seconds.
I apply two coats around 30 minuets apart. This will ensure full coverage.

Lately I've been applying OptiSeal with a soft microfiber towel and completely buffing it into the paint leaving hardly anything to evaporate. This has been working out really nice.

Anthony

Thx both, I think I didnt use enough as my car seems to have lost something.

Looking for some confirmation for a 1st time OptiSeal user. From this string of posts, it seems like the preferred method for applying OptiSeal using the hand applicator is to:

1) Prime the applicator with a couple of spritzes of OPS
2) Then spray the area to be coated
3) Then wipe the area with the applicator, with slightly overlapping passes until the entire area has been wiped with the applicator.

Its at this point that I have a question - I have read where you simply wipe it on (I assume back and forth in one direction only) for what I assume is just a couple of passes. Then, moving to the next adjacent untreated area, you wipe on some additional OptiSeal, taking care to slightly overlap the first swath area, repeating this until the entire sprayed area is completed. I have also read some people who say to rub until it disappears.

So my question is:

1) Do you wipe in on, spreading a thin coat on the entire area, and then let it cure, or do you rub it in until it disappears?

2) And if you do rub it until it disappears, do you rub in one small swath, back and forth until it disappears, or after spreading a thin coat on the entire sprayed area, do you then go back and rub each swath area until it disappears?

Thanks,

BJ