I decided to wax my car with paste wax as I had nothing better to do. Since, my car was in the garage, I decided to lay a 'few' coats of my favorite paste waxes over the course of the week just for ducks. I fully understand the issue with respect to 'layering' but I was just 'messing around' while talking to my sons. Today, two days after my last coat of wax, I used Opti-Seal with a foam applicator, under the premise that I would 'seal in the wax'. What I immediately noticed was that the Opti-Seal seamed to 'disolve' the wax, for lack of a better way of describing it. The Opti-seal was 'murky' where I have never noticed it before. I continued with the application, 'massaging' the Opti-Seal in as I went - kinda like putting on baby lotion as a result of the disolved wax mixing in with the Opti-Seal. I then went back over the car with a MF. What I discovered astonished me, frankly.

Now, I know what my car looks like with different products as well as with Opti-Seal. What I discovered was that the reflection on the top of the car from bottles that are on a shelf were so razor sharp, I could clearly read the labels. This has never been the case before. Oh, the car has shined, and this shine was certainly outstanding, but it was the 'depth' of the reflection that was so pronounced. We could actually read the labels. I have never seen this in my car with any product including Opti-Seal.

Stunned is the only word I can use. Unfortunately, my camera is Kaput. I will most certainly capture this and post it when I get my new camera next week.

c'mon man!! don't leave us hangin! First time I used Opti-seal was just over a normal suds wash. I topped one uncured layer of Opti-seal with a coat of OCW and I was impressed.

You've certainly got our attention.

Out of curiosity which wax were you using, what time delays were involved and what color is your car?

Well, I first used Megs #16. I followed up the next day with Megs # 26. The next day, I used 1Grand. The following day, I used Prowax Yellow Wax. I have a collection of waxes and decided to use some of my 'hard' waxes vs the 'beauty waxes'. I was just messin' around, really. I have time on my hands right now so what the heck...

It was the following day, 24 hours later, I used the Opti-Seal. As I said, it seamed to disolve the wax, probably the last coat of Prowax. Things got murky but I rubbed it in anyway. I then went back over the car with a super soft MF. That's when I realized I could actually read the labels where I have never before. I got three opinions from my three sons independently, who were in and out of the garage during this time. They are in their 20's and they both know what both of my cars look like. What we realized was that it was not only the shine which was better than ever; but, the amazing depth and clarity of the finish. The difference was not subtle.

Today, I put a coat of OCW on and parked the car in the driveway so we could polish my son's motorcyle. We immediately noticed in the refelction on the side of the car, that we could see the house across the street and all the details associated with it. This is on a silver car, arguably the hardest to achieve depth. A few of the neighbors wandered over to wish me a happy Father's Day and speak to the boys. They looked at us looking at the car and they had to look too. They know how fastidious I am about my cars. Even they said the Yaris never looked better. One even commented on the depth and details of the reflections without me saying a word. I can't wait to do the Volvo.

I was able to get the camera working and have to track down the cable. Pics will follow once I track it down...

Thanks for taking the time to respond keesue, it's appreciated.

The reason I asked was I have a silver car and whilst I'm delighted with the protection OptiSeal offers and the ease of application, I've seen very little visual change after applying it or wax for that matter.

Chemistry at school was a long time ago but perhaps I'll have to experiment a bit.

Sure thing. I have used Opti-Seal as part of my regime for some time and I'm very familiar with the look on my car. I was simply just unprepared for this, frankly.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

At long last, I finally found the cable. These pictures are not the best but they illustrate the depth of the shine which I find is difficult to acheive with silver. When I bought the car new, it was shiney but with very little depth. Nothing works like Opti-Seal for me on silver. This was on top of the layers of wax I mentioned after they had all cured in the sun for a day or two as I recall. The clarity of the shine was stunning. I could actually read the labels down to the smallest details. Incredible to me, really.

That is some very reflective silver for sure

I will be awaiting the results of all the mixologists out there and the results they get with the Optimum coating once it's out

Anthony

I must admit I'm a bit confused on the mixolgy thing. In the CW world of detailing from what I read putting down carnauba first and then topping it with a polymer sealant is a no-no because sealing in the carnauba does not allow it to naturally evaporate and when it loses some of it properties it can cloud the finish. But yet if you put down OOS first to seal the paint and then follow with carnauba one is constantly having to reapply carnauba with it's short lifespan.

But yet with OOS that does not seem to to be the case. Why is that? I can maybe see Dr G. formulating OCW to play nice as a first layer followed by OOS, but what about with other 'pure' carnauba's?

To add to my confusion on Dr. G's website, optimumcarcare.com/optimumseal.html, it says:



So OOS is to be used "under" OCW, but it does not say it can be used over carnauba be it OCW or other brand of pure carnuaba.

I was thinking of using OCW as a base coat and then OOS over the top for protection and slickness but I'm not sure that would properly work even though I have read of others doing it. Perhaps it would be best to stick with OOS and maintain it with OID ad leave it at that but I hate to lose any beauty benefits of the carnauba. What to do? I don't have a lot of time to experiment but yet I'd like to 'optimize' the finish on my car with the right combo of products.

Any thoughts on this are appreciated. Anthony?

I've applied OOS followed by carnauba followed by OOS on light silver with no apparent problems.

My understanding is that the wax migrates above the OOS or the OOS below the wax whichever way you wish to look at it, so you end up with the wax on top.

I allow 24 hours for the wax to cure before applying OOS.

I’ve just applied some OCW today but anticipate no problems when next applying OOS.

Thanks Jay. Can I ask what difference do you see in the silver finish with the wax & OOS versus just the OOS alone?

And if the wax ends up on top which do you prefer to use to maintain between waxings: OID or OCW?

My car is a BMW in Titanium Silver which is a very light color.

To be honest the car looked very tidy on delivery and I’m not entirely convinced that anything I’ve put on has had any significant or possibly even noticeable impact on the appearance.

I’m of the view that the vast bulk of the final finish comes from preparation.
I’ve hand polished not machine polished so either the car is close to as good as it gets or perhaps I could get a bit more with machine polishing, but I’m not convinced of that.

I put OOS on for protection and then added wax for a bit of fun although I now think it may help with the flies and bird bombs.

I anticipate using OCW every month for ease of application with an application of Collonite 476s every two or three months especially once the winter approaches.

Technically the OOS may be almost be redundant for me but it’s so easy to apply and I figure it will do no harm so I put it on periodically.

Over here in the UK we are still waiting for the QID to arrive but if I use it I would view it as an occasional product in its own right and use OCW as a means of maintaining protection.

Hope that helps a little bit.

Thanks again Jay. I know what you mean about a new car already looking good. My '08 Silver metallic Accord Coupe had a nice clear coat shine but it still needed protection from the elements so I used all Meguiar's products to Clay - Hand polish - Cleaner - Tape/Mask - NXT Techwax - spruced up with Ultimate Quik Detailer. It was ton of work but a definite improvement in shine and appearance and very reflective in the right light. But next go around I'm looking for a easier/faster way.

I think OOS will be great for a protestant and then topped with OID for shine it should be a quick and painless way to maybe acheive what I have with Meg's or better. For sure doing away with the tape/masking and worrying about trim staining will be a giant leap in ease of use, not to mention not having to detail dry product out of the seams and cracks. Perhaps I will pick up a bottle of OCW just to see if it adds anything to the looks of the finish when on top of OOS.

I still wish I know what Optimum recommended to use as a booster for the OCW though - OID or just more OCW. I know on top of OOS OID is the way to go. But will OID also work with OCW? Maybe someone will let me know who has used OCW

Thanks for your help.