My question is this if I apply one of Meguiars cleaners prior to Poli-Seal will oils left over from it inhibit the bonding of PS to the paint. I will be applying by hand if that makes a difference.
After the next wash I will be applying Opti-Seal.
regards Rik
Full Version: Poli-Seal bonding question
QUOTE (Rik @ Aug 9 2008, 04:35 PM) 
My question is this if I apply one of Meguiars cleaners prior to Poli-Seal will oils left over from it inhibit the bonding of PS to the paint. I will be applying by hand if that makes a difference.
After the next wash I will be applying Opti-Seal.
regards Rik
After the next wash I will be applying Opti-Seal.
regards Rik
Good question Rik. To add to that if someone could also clarify if Poli-Seal on clean clayed paint 'darkens' the paint color at all when applied?
Any time you have left over oils and such there is the chance that they can inhibit the proper bonding of any product applied. In the case of PS it may not effect it all that much as PS has some cleaning ability so it may be that it will remove the oils.
In the area of darkening the paint.....PS does darken paint slightly while many claim OS to darken it even more.
Anthony
In the area of darkening the paint.....PS does darken paint slightly while many claim OS to darken it even more.
Anthony
QUOTE (Anthony Orosco @ Aug 11 2008, 07:26 AM)
Any time you have left over oils and such there is the chance that they can inhibit the proper bonding of any product applied. In the case of PS it may not effect it all that much as PS has some cleaning ability so it may be that it will remove the oils.
In the area of darkening the paint.....PS does darken paint slightly while many claim OS to darken it even more.
Anthony
In the area of darkening the paint.....PS does darken paint slightly while many claim OS to darken it even more.
Anthony
Thanks Anthony. I have PS and OID on the way and am excited to try them. I got 1 month old NXT on the car now and will be initially put PS over that. In a couple of months I plan to strip all that off and PS - OS - and maintain with both OCW and OID.
Dr. G. prefers OCW. Below for others to read is his response to my IM to him which he graciously answered:
QUOTE
Dr G.
I'm going to try OOS for the first time. What is your recommendation for a weekly topper to keep it looking nice - OCW or OID?
Thanks - Alex
I'm going to try OOS for the first time. What is your recommendation for a weekly topper to keep it looking nice - OCW or OID?
Thanks - Alex
Dr. G. Responds:
QUOTE
Thank you for your email. I would rather use Optimum Car Wax since I am very partial to this product due to its UV protection and also it will layer and continuously add more gloss and depth as you use it. Instant detailer will give your more gloss initially, however, after weekly layering for a few weeks the wax side should have a much deeper glow. Of course many use the combination of these two products for maximum gloss and protection. I appreciate if you share your results on the forum as to which approach you prefer after trying these products. Thanks again.
David,
David,
Well i on a section of a vehicle I used Meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner then used Poli-Seal over it and it went on grabby like I don't think this will work together.
Whereas Poli-Seal goes on smoothly even by hand and is insanely easy to swipe up.
I was going to try to use Meg's deep crystal cleaner instead of claying but will clay and use ONR as the clay lube then PoliSseal.
> after the next wash can I use PS again to further clean the paint then after next wash start using OS.
thanx Rik
Whereas Poli-Seal goes on smoothly even by hand and is insanely easy to swipe up.
I was going to try to use Meg's deep crystal cleaner instead of claying but will clay and use ONR as the clay lube then PoliSseal.
> after the next wash can I use PS again to further clean the paint then after next wash start using OS.
thanx Rik
QUOTE (Rik @ Aug 11 2008, 08:29 PM)
after the next wash can I use PS again to further clean the paint then after next wash start using OS.
thanx Rik
While I'm not an expert in the use of Poli-Seal and Opti-Seal, I have used both quite a bit.thanx Rik
Poli-Seal as a prep or base for the Opti-Seal has worked great for me a number of times on our vehicles and our boat.
I polish/clean with the Poli-Seal and a PC then follow it immediately with the Opti-Seal.
Waiting till after a wash hasn't been necessary for me at all.
QUOTE (Rik @ Aug 11 2008, 06:29 PM)
Well i on a section of a vehicle I used Meguiars deep crystal paint cleaner then used Poli-Seal over it and it went on grabby like I don't think this will work together.
Whereas Poli-Seal goes on smoothly even by hand and is insanely easy to swipe up.
I was going to try to use Meg's deep crystal cleaner instead of claying but will clay and use ONR as the clay lube then PoliSseal.
> after the next wash can I use PS again to further clean the paint then after next wash start using OS.
thanx Rik
Whereas Poli-Seal goes on smoothly even by hand and is insanely easy to swipe up.
I was going to try to use Meg's deep crystal cleaner instead of claying but will clay and use ONR as the clay lube then PoliSseal.
> after the next wash can I use PS again to further clean the paint then after next wash start using OS.
thanx Rik
Rik I was advised on this forum and another by two different people to clay, Meg's deep crystal cleaner, and then a IPA wipe down should give me a clean surface to work with.
I used Meg's DC polish before applying NXT so if I decide I don't like OS over the NXT then I will strip off everything down to the bare paint with the three steps above. I'm going to try it on a section of the trunk first to see if it works and also which of the different combos I have in mind I will use.
Or after Meg's cleaner you could use ONR in a bottle at QD strength to clean and leave behind a finish that PS would bond to.
> Talex give an update on how it went when its done.
> Talex give an update on how it went when its done.
QUOTE (Rik @ Aug 14 2008, 06:33 PM)
Or after Meg's cleaner you could use ONR in a bottle at QD strength to clean and leave behind a finish that PS would bond to.
> Talex give an update on how it went when its done.
> Talex give an update on how it went when its done.
Good idea Rik on the ONR QD strength. I use that formulation daily to get the dust off and it makes sense to use it as you suggest. And I will provide an update. It will be a couple of months before I do the PS like I said upthread but I will be taking a chronology pictures of my car to post:
1. with NXT as it is now
2. with NXT topped with PS and OID
3. and then finally OS - PS - OID - and maybe even try some OCW
As for striping the car down and getting rid of the Meg's oils I got some advice from Kevin Farrell, kleencarauto.com, who helped Dr G. formulate Poli-Seal. Great guy. There was a mix up in what was sent to me in my recent order and he went all out to get it right for me. I don't know of any other companies that would have gone to the lengths that he did to make things right. He is a great source for OPT products and has the best shipping rates around which makes him the most competitive. Next day shipping too on my two orders with him - ordered both on a Monday and received them on Friday. I highly recommend his company.
In a short series of emails regarding the order he gave me a few unsolicited tips and even took the time to answer a few questions for me. Below is my email to him and his response regarding the Meg's oils and some other things. I thought I'd post it here for others in the future to see. I think you will find it interesting Rik.
QUOTE
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for the tips on OCW and the Poli-Seal. I know you are a busy guy and don't have time to answer everyones questions but given that you are the architect of Poli-Seal I thought if by chance you had a minute who better to ask a couple of questions of.
I will be doing everything by hand. Should I use a lot of 'passion' when applying Poli-Seal? My 2 month old car is defect free from what I can tell using the sun and is silver metallic with micro-flake so anything small does not really show anyway. Would a terry, mf, or foam pad be better? Any quick tips would be appreciated.
Previously I used Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish and I am concerned about leaving the heavy oils from that behind and causing streaking issues with either of the OPT products. I will re-clay first to remove wax, contaminates, etc. Will the cleaning properties of Poli-Seal be enough to remove Meg's polish oils or would you advise using a cleaning cream like Meg's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner - followed by an IPA wipedown?
Again if you don't have time to respond I fully understand. And thanks again for your extra effort in getting my order right. I will contact you with the shipping information when I get your wax back out to you.
Thanks - Talex
Thanks for the tips on OCW and the Poli-Seal. I know you are a busy guy and don't have time to answer everyones questions but given that you are the architect of Poli-Seal I thought if by chance you had a minute who better to ask a couple of questions of.
I will be doing everything by hand. Should I use a lot of 'passion' when applying Poli-Seal? My 2 month old car is defect free from what I can tell using the sun and is silver metallic with micro-flake so anything small does not really show anyway. Would a terry, mf, or foam pad be better? Any quick tips would be appreciated.
Previously I used Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish and I am concerned about leaving the heavy oils from that behind and causing streaking issues with either of the OPT products. I will re-clay first to remove wax, contaminates, etc. Will the cleaning properties of Poli-Seal be enough to remove Meg's polish oils or would you advise using a cleaning cream like Meg's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner - followed by an IPA wipedown?
Again if you don't have time to respond I fully understand. And thanks again for your extra effort in getting my order right. I will contact you with the shipping information when I get your wax back out to you.
Thanks - Talex
Kevin's response:
QUOTE
Hi Alex,
doing anything by hand is more challenging and will take longer and sometimes without the desired results. However, Poli seal does have light correctional capabilities that hopefully will improve any minor defects (but they have to be minor doing it by hand). using a micro fiber applicator is always preferred as it will polish better without the chances of scratching
Wiping off should be easy also. A trick in wiping off polish or wax is by misting a micro fiber towel with water to get it slightly damp and then wiping the car down.. This helps the micro fiber absorb better and pull all the oils out of the product. You can also slightly mist the panels with water also
There should be no oils from any product still on the vehicle by now. The heat of the sun and the solvents will evaporate after a short time, so that should not be an issue. Its a temporary thing but you do want to pull it all off but alcohol should not be needed if you limit the amount of product used and even it out and use a bit if water to help get it all off. That should also deepen the gloss as wax likes water to set up.
Don't be too afraid of rubbing as a buffer would create even more heat and friction, but sometimes a buffer will be needed. Possibly look into a PC7424 to make life easier.
Thanks again - Kevin
doing anything by hand is more challenging and will take longer and sometimes without the desired results. However, Poli seal does have light correctional capabilities that hopefully will improve any minor defects (but they have to be minor doing it by hand). using a micro fiber applicator is always preferred as it will polish better without the chances of scratching
Wiping off should be easy also. A trick in wiping off polish or wax is by misting a micro fiber towel with water to get it slightly damp and then wiping the car down.. This helps the micro fiber absorb better and pull all the oils out of the product. You can also slightly mist the panels with water also
There should be no oils from any product still on the vehicle by now. The heat of the sun and the solvents will evaporate after a short time, so that should not be an issue. Its a temporary thing but you do want to pull it all off but alcohol should not be needed if you limit the amount of product used and even it out and use a bit if water to help get it all off. That should also deepen the gloss as wax likes water to set up.
Don't be too afraid of rubbing as a buffer would create even more heat and friction, but sometimes a buffer will be needed. Possibly look into a PC7424 to make life easier.
Thanks again - Kevin
won't Poli-seal eat up whatever NXT is left from before due to the cleaning properties of OPS? Good thread here though. thanks : )
applying by PC then by in large yes but by hand then no thats how I am doing it.
QUOTE (dublifecrisis @ Aug 15 2008, 06:29 PM)
won't Poli-seal eat up whatever NXT is left from before due to the cleaning properties of OPS? Good thread here though. thanks : )
For how I am going to go about it I will not be applying PS until I strip off the NXT first by claying which should remove it easily. I suppose even by hand at that point any 'residual' NXT will be removed by the PS. But just in case prior to applying PS I will do a visual and touch inspection and if I feel there is any wax or oils left I will do an IPA wipe down even though Kevin Farrell said it would not be necessary and it probably won't be because of the abrasive and cleaning properties of PS as you pointed out. An IPA will not take that long and is not labor intensive so it is an easy play it safe procedure if in doubt.
I'm really interested in seeing the difference between OS over NXT compared to OS over PS so the next couple of months should be fun. They will definitely be different looks and which one appeals to me more is not yet known.
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