SuperBee364

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About SuperBee364

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  1. Compound II

    If I order from the Optimum web site, is that ordering from you, Chris? Question: Am I going to still see great DA results (along the lines of 105/205) with UHC or Compound II? My rotary makes a great wall decoration in the garage... I'm looking to replace the 105/205 two-step combination. Which polish (UHC or Compound II) would be best suited for two step DA polishing?
  2. New Pads

    Same here.
  3. Announcing The New Optimum Polish & Compound!

    Have the pads been released yet? Can't seem to find them anywhere on the Optimum products site... Edit: Never mind.. I found them on autogeek, but unfortunately they only come in 8" size. I have a full selection of various 8" pads, all of which are still resting comfortably in their original packaging. I don't do many boats.
  4. That sounds like a fantastic suggestion, Chris, thanks! Definitely gonna order up some Power Clean and give it a go. I'm definitely going to go the Opti-Coat route on my wife's SUV, but not on my car.. I enjoy pushing the gloss level on my car too much. Every new finishing polish that hits the market finds it's way to my car eventually. The wife's car is going to be my test bed for learning how to spray on Opti-Coat with an airbrush. Probably not til next spring, though. Thanks again for the very helpful and prompt reply! --Supe
  5. Hey Chris, Over on "that other detailing board", I kinda have a rep for my incredibly OCD "touchless car wash" method. In a nutshell, when my car is really dirty: High pressure rinse. (John Deere gas powered pressure washer) Foam cannon using Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss High pressure rinse. (using a CRSpotless so I don't have to touch the paint to dry it) Normally, the above steps are all that's necessary to get my car completely clean. That is, until the LSP starts to fade a bit. If that happens, I follow up with another round of foam, brushed off gently with a long hair boar's hair brush. If stuff still remains on the paint after that, I ONR it. My car seldom gets that dirty nowadays, so most of the time I just ONR it. But on the occasions that it gets too dirty for me (in my mind, anyway) to just ONR it, I use the above technique. The reason I have been dedicated to the CG CW&G is that it has a fairly high concentration of detergents, and not just lubrication agents. It seems that most of the car soaps on the market now days are nothing more than lubrication in a bottle. I need the chemical cleaning, since there just isn't any mechanical agitation in this process. So this all (finally!) leads up the question: Does Optimum Car Wash have much in the way of detergent action, or is it pretty much just lubrication for a wash mitt? I know it's a fine line to walk; too much detergent in a car wash = removing the LSP, while not enough leads to dirty cars. And since the majority of car washers use some sort of wash mitt, lubrication becomes the focus point of most car soap makers. I've literally spent hundreds of dollars on different car soaps, trying to find one that has a decent amount of detergent that can be diluted down to where you still get detergent action without stripping the LSP off. Unfortunately, I never gave OCW a try. CG's quality control has gone down hill *a lot*. The last several gallon jugs of CW&G I've bought have been terribly inconsistent. So I'm looking for a replacement. I've been using the above car wash method (and variations on it) for years now. I've been able to keep my two cars *completely* swirl free with this technique. On my own cars, polishing is a thing of the past, although I still can't help but see if I can't amp the gloss "just a bit more" quite frequently by using various finishing polishes, but this is simply to enhance gloss, never to remove swirls.
  6. Spraying on Opti-Coat.

    Mr. Orosco, I think it was you who originally piqued my interest at spraying on WOWA sealants, but I have since lost the link to the thread where you describe how it's done. I've been searching, and just can't find it! And now that Opti-coat has been released, I think it's time to revisit the subject. Have you guys tried applying Opti-Coat by air brush yet? How'd it go? Any pointers on a good airbrush to do this technique with? Pictures? Video? Any other information you have would be great... I will be buying/applying Opti-Coat, but not until I can read up on how to properly air brush it on. --Supe
  7. Riccardo Clay and Opti-Clay

    At the airline I used to fly for, I had overnights in many Canadian cities every month. The airline I'm flying for now doesn't fly into Canada. :/ I'm thinking of seeing if I can get a couple cases, but if the patent is going to expire soon, maybe I'll hold off... Anthony, do you happen to know how long til they run out?
  8. Riccardo Clay and Opti-Clay

    Will do, man. It'll be nice to see Opti-Clay back on the market.
  9. Riccardo Clay and Opti-Clay

    I know of at least one.
  10. Another ONR?

    I always use distilled water when I ONR, too, and have gotten the same results. Not quite spot free. That may also be due to the fact that I mix ONR at just about double strength, though.
  11. Just found anther post with info on using Optimum with hard clears, so never mind. Thanks again.
  12. That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks Anthony. How well does the Optimum line work on really hard clears? I'm doing an 06 Lexus in two days (hard clear) and would like to give the Optimum a shot if it's going to be up for a pretty hard clear.
  13. I just purchased the entire Optimum line of polishes. I have been using (and loving) the Menzerna line, but their polishes are just too expensive. Most of the cars I work on are newer models with very hard clears. I have had great luck with Menz's SIP 3.01, 3.02, and 106ff. I just can't afford to keep going through 30 bucks in product every time I pick up my buffer. Which Optimum polishes can I use to replace my Menz line up? 3.01 = Optimum ??? 106ff = Optimum ???