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neonglh last won the day on June 25 2014

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About neonglh

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  1. It may have, but I couldn't find it in this Opti Clay Towel, Disc and Eraser section of the site. I will give that a try and see if it works.
  2. I am wondering if the towel is only meant for use on a few cars before tossing, or if these is a good way of cleaning it. I used my new, fine-grade towel last night on a previously clayed and sealed E46 BMW, and after I was done, it looked like this: The instructions say to spray it with ONR and rub it with your hand. I did that, and dragged a microfiber towel over it to pull off any loose particles, but you can see it is still quite soiled with .... whatever it pulled off. Are there any tips to clean this? How many cars do you think one can clay before the towel must be tossed? This car was washed before claying, and had been previously clayed just a few months before, so I would imagine the towel would get very dirty on a never-clayed car. I loved how fast and effective the towel was, but if you can only do a few cars before needing a new one, I may be sticking with clay.
  3. Let me start out by saying I am not trying to ask a "what is better, Cquarts or Gloss Coat" thread, I am just referencing a product I know about as a baseline for questions with the Optimum line. First, when applying the Gloss Coat, can you use just one applicator for the whole car, or do you need multiple. When you are done, do you need to throw out the applicator, or can it be washed. And microfiber towels you use to remove the high spots, can they be washed, or do they have to be tossed? When installing Cquarts, they say you should use 4-5 applicators per car as it hardens on there while applying, and you should throw them away as well as the towels to remove the high spots. Second, is there any need to do more than one coat, or will one coat still provide the 2 years of protection on the paint. Lastly, is there any need to do a topper every few months to the product, like Opti Seal, or would maintenance washes be enough to maintain the car. The Carpro coatings recommend "retopping" every 6 months or so, but this seems strange to me since it's a coating, not a sealant.
  4. Applicator

    I don't see any problems with your method, but you'll still want to buff off the product with a mf towel after you apply. If your current method isn't working due to the towel bunching, you may be applying too much product. Are you doing one spritz per panel?
  5. ONRWW With Spray Gun

    It still doesn't' make sense though, a foam gun waters down the product since it uses water to propel the soap through it. I would much rather recommend a pressurized sprayer or something to wet the car down. Here is an example:
  6. ONRWW With Spray Gun

    ONR or ONRWW are not meant for a foam gun, they do not produce suds.
  7. ONRWW With Spray Gun

    My first comment would be stop using the California Blade to dry the car, right away. Those are awful, and will scratch the car. You should only dry with microfiber towels or air. Small bits of dirt and dust can be in the water, and as you drag the blade across the paint, it will introduce scratches.
  8. I am not sure who runs this YouTube channel, but they have a video showing how you can save time by washing with ONR, and then drying with a microfiber towel spritzed with OOS, so you can dry and seal in one step. What are the thoughts on this? I normally dry with a spritz of Instant Gloss Enhancer to add a bit of lubricity to drying, but I would have never thought you could seal and dry at the same time. Thoughts from the powers that be? Here is the link to the YouTube video, on the OptimumPolumerTechnologies account: The part I am talking about occurs at around 1:56 into the video.
  9. Which washing media is better for ONR?

    It makes sense what I am saying though, right? Since it releases so well, wouldn't it dirty up the water very quickly if you don't use a rinse bucket? Or will anything harmful hopefully settle to the bottom quick enough to not get reintroduced the cleaning medium.
  10. Which washing media is better for ONR?

    One of the benefits to using a foam wash mitt (Either grout sponge or OptiMitt) is that it releases the contaminants so easily. Because of this, is it smarter to use a second bucket for rinsing, or will it still be safe for just one bucket?
  11. I will likely rinse first from now on, but I am quite amazed that even without pre-rinsing, I am still getting no scratches.
  12. I have been doing this for around a year, and have had no scratches yet, so that is a good start. I find that the first swipe with my dreadlock microfiber mitt soaked in ONR and water still makes a "gritty" sound as it goes across the salt and road grime. I use little-to-no pressure, and it cleans, and then the second and any further passes are smooth and silent. Is there any way to avoid this, or should I not worry about it? I would assume that sound is an indicator of less lubricity, meaning it could scratch the paint. Do you recommend a presoak with ONR and water from a spray bottle when dealing with salt, or is it just how it is with a winter ORN wash. Please advise! It was nice washing my car in my garage last night, with hot water in a bucket, since it was 34 degrees outside Mark
  13. Yeah, I saw the glove technique for Opti-Coat, but I figure that it's a similar application process and chemical makeup to OOS, so it could probably be applied the same, no?
  14. I have sealed around 6 or 7 cars now with Optiseal after doing a wash, decon, and iso wipe. I have tried a few different methods, and each time I get some streaking on the paint as the OOS dries. I have tried priming the pad with a spritz or two, and then doing anywhere from 1 - 2 spritz's per panel, depending on size. I have also tried spraying just into the pad, and then rubbing that around on the panel. Is there a better way that would prevent the streaks? I heard of someone putting a nitrite glove over the foam applicator and using that to spread the OOS, so that it doesn't absorb into the pad, is that dumb? Second part of the question, assuming I have some light streaking afterwards, what is the best way to remove. I usually wipe with a microfiber, but it doensn't get all of the streaking, at least easily. Some of it take some decent pressure, and I don't always feel comfortable doing that. Would a spritz of detailing spray or Opti Clean help remove any residue? Please advise for best practices. And to preemptively answer questions, I dont' believe I am using too much. I use 1 spritz for each fender, door, quarter panel, and hatch, and then 2 spritz for the hood, bumpers, and roof. Mark
  15. This is my first post, so I may have other questions similar to this in the future, but let's start with this. I love the Optimum product line! I currently use ONR for rinseless washing with the traditional 1 or 2 bucket method, but I also use ONR in a higher dilution rate for waterless washes. When my car is not too dirty, I will soak a panel with a spray bottle of ONR and distilled water, and wipe with a soft, thick microfiber towel. Once clean, I go over the panel again with ID&GE. This seems to get a great shine to the car. Once every few months I seal with OOS, and maybe once a month I use OCW. I am completely happy with this procedure. I now see there is OOC (which I admit, I didn't know about until now). Should I use OOC instead of a higher dilution of ONR for my waterless washes? What would be the benefit of OOC instead of ONR, when it comes to waterless washes. Please advise! Mark