The Guz

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The Guz last won the day on August 27

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About The Guz

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  1. Decon Process

    Do you have water spots on the car? If not then no need to use MDR. Keep it simple and this is what I would do 1. Ferrex. If the paint is not that dirty you can use that over the dry surface to not dilute the product with water. If it is too dirty wash and dry first then use Ferrex. 2. Rinse the Ferrex from the surface and proceed with your normal wash 3. Clay 4. Paint prep if you want to take an additional step after claying to remove any clay lube residue. No need for an additional wash. 5. Polish 6. Protect 7. Maintain
  2. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    I would not worry too much about the thickness of not only Gloss Coat but other coatings. It is negligible anyway. I believe you are wanting to know more about the hardness level. I would not buy too much into the claims of hardness for any coating. They can still be scratched and swirled just as easily as clear coat. They are not impervious to damage. Coatings do help with wash induced marring , which is going to happen compared to a wax or sealant. When it comes to reapplication this is where I am going to not agree with what was preciously posted. In the time frame of 1-2 years the car is going to need a polishing. I say that because one the longevity/durability is going to vary by the environment the vehicle is exposed to. For example someone who lives in a dry climate will get more longevity/durability compared to someone who lives in a snowy environment where chemicals are used. 1 year actually seems about right for gloss coat anyway. In that time you will also have some marring. That is going to happen the more one touches the paint. Just the nature of the beast. Good washing technique is important but you will notice areas that will need to be polished out eventually. Road grime is another thing to consider. Road grime especially in areas that deal with a lot of rain will eventually contaminate the coating and degrade some of the gloss. This is a great write up by Mike Phillips and he makes some valid points. https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/2018-new-car-detailing-how-to-article-by-mike-phillips/119815-case-against-multi-year-ceramic-paint-coatings-road-grime-surface-staining-daily-drivers-mike-phillips.html So to reapply I would go ahead and repolish 1-2 years down the road and reapply. You will remove defects and of course impart gloss with a polishing step.
  3. Ultra Clay Towel and Ultra Clay Mitt

    I hope they are better than the previous towel. The previous towel was terrible. Was one of the worst clay alternatives I have used. It just sits in the package after not even one use and will probably end up in the trash. I have seen the new ones and they do look nice. I won't think I will be picking these up as I found one that I am satisfied with.
  4. Finally finished 14 hour exterior detail-06 GTO

    The general consensus is 30 days. But check with your body shop and they will let you know. You may be able to do it sooner.
  5. HPCS without ONR

    Yes it contains it. Mentioned in about the 16:10 min mark in this video. It does streak especially in the warmer climate such as Southern California. I no longer use it for a waterless wash on the paint. Pretty much use it for interior maintenance wipe downs and engine bay touch ups.
  6. HPCS without ONR

    I would think the sealant aspect would not be beneficial. Not to mention it takes some effort to remove all the streaking unlike ONR which is easier to wipe off.
  7. Figuring out Opti-coat Maintenance

    Get yourself a blower and blow off the water. No need for a towel or anything. Less chances of touching the paint and risking any marring. You can always wipe down with opti-clean or ONR if the paint is slightly dirty. With hyper seal and opti seal you can use them as often as you like. Hyper Seal has SiO2 in it so it's protection will last longer and be more durable than opti-seal. It can be used as often as you like. But no need to use both of them together. The difference between opti-coat no rinse and ONR is that OCNR contains gloss enhancers. There is no need to over think it. Use what you like.
  8. I stopped using Gold Class long ago. I ended up just using it a wheel soap. The conditioners in the shampoo is what can mask the properties of an LSP. Optimum Car Shampoo is better at this. Plus Optimum Car Shampoo rinses cleaner and cleans better. I rarely bucket wash these days to begin with. Rinseless is my main go to wash method. Perhaps consider adopting ONR as well.
  9. Just a side note from personal experience with Gold Class. It can mask the properties of a wax, sealant or coating. I’ve experienced this with it and stopped using it. You can always get optimum car wash as well. That is better among some others that I have used.
  10. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Personal preference on which to use.
  11. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    You should not need to use ONR after applying gloss coat. It is recommended to use opti-seal 1 hour after the last coat of gloss coat so that is perfectly fine. It will protect gloss coat during the curing time. It is not recommended to wash prior to at least 7 days.
  12. Gloss coat on wheels barrels?

    It is worth it. The wheels will be easier to clean and stay cleaner longer. Like everything else maintenance is key.
  13. I would not over think it and use either one. I use opti-clean on a weekly/bi weekly wipe down and have no issues. It does not degrade the protection I have on the various areas unless I scrub very hard. But for light dust build up it is just fine.
  14. It works fine with Gloss Coat.
  15. Optimum Gloss coat lacks sheeting beading

    You don't need to go through the whole process and start over. As I mentioned over on your Autogeek thread, your prep is fine. It's all the stuff on that is on the surface that is masking the performance of the coating such as the shampoo, quick detailer and the possibility of road grime. I did not even think about the pollen season as someone mentioned in your Autogeek thread as well. Gold Class is a nice shampoo but it can mask the properties of any LSP. I have experienced this myself and that is why I no longer use it. The effects of the QD and the car wash will be removed after a few washes with a shampoo that leaves nothing behind. Road grime is a little harder to remove and there are shampoos that can do this. Road grime is an outcome of rain and all the crud from the road being flung on the painted surface. You could try paint prep after a wash to see if that helps. The other option is the possibility of trying power clean to clean up the surface during your wash process and see if that restores the hydrophobic properties. Worst case you have to start over. The difference between opti-seal and hyper seal is that hyper seal contains SiO2.