bird-keeper

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bird-keeper last won the day on January 31

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  1. Optimum Glass Coat Troubles

    Thanks for all the feedback. I'll make some adjustments and see how that goes.
  2. Optimum Glass Coat Troubles

    I thought I read somewhere or saw on a video where Yvan said that you would need to remove any type of sealant or coating before using glass coat in order for it to bond properly. Since I didn't feel like breaking out my polisher to remove the Opti-Seal, I chose to use it on another vehicle. I guess my next question is how much is too much? I used 1-2 sprays to start, and then added a spray when it seemed like there was nothing being left behind as I moved the applicator, which is similar to how Yvan applied it in the OPT demonstration video.
  3. Optimum Glass Coat Troubles

    Hello everyone. Yesterday I received my order of Optimum Glass coating and decided I couldn't wait so I coated the windows/windshield on my in-laws car (my car has Opti-Seal and I didn't feel like breaking out the polisher to remove it). I've seen all the OPT videos and read the instructions on the bottle (and followed them) but still had some questions/issues with application. First, the process I used: 1. Clean with ONR. 2. Some of the windows had some bad water spotting, so I decided to use MDR first to remove them. After a couple applications of MDR and being mostly happy with the results (another issue for another thread), I rinsed completely. 3. Just to be thorough, I clayed the glass as well to make sure there were no other contaminants on the glass. Then I rinsed and dried the glass. 4. Applied Opti Glass Coating per the instructions on the bottle and videos I've seen with Yvan. 5. Buffed off high spots after 2-3 minutes using an Eagle Edgeless Rag Company towel. Now, the main problem I had was trying to buff off the high spots. After waiting the recommended 2 minutes, it was very difficult to level the high spots (almost felt like I was trying to wipe off something that was on the other side of the glass). I wiped until I felt like I had gotten everything I could and there were no more visible spots/streaks. When I came out this morning the windows were covered in condensation/dew from overnight and in several places, you could see the swirl pattern from when I applied the coating. That to me was an indicator of something gone wrong as I would think that the windshield and windows would be perfectly uniform in the appearance with condensation if done correctly. I know the directions say to apply when temps are between 60 and 90*F and not in direct sunlight but I've seen another post on here saying the minimum for any coating is 40*F. Yesterday it was 55 and cloudy so I don't think temperature was the issue. What could I have done differently that would help with the high spots and avoid the non-uniform look of the glass when dew gets on it?
  4. Hello everyone. Yesterday I received my order of Optimum Glass coating and decided I couldn't wait so I coated the windows/windshield on my in-laws car (my car has Opti-Seal and I didn't feel like breaking out the polisher to remove it). I've seen all the OPT videos and read the instructions on the bottle (and followed them) but still had some questions/issues with application. First, the process I used: 1. Clean with ONR. 2. Some of the windows had some bad water spotting, so I decided to use MDR first to remove them. After a couple applications of MDR and being mostly happy with the results (another issue for another thread), I rinsed completely. 3. Just to be thorough, I clayed the glass as well to make sure there were no other contaminants on the glass. Then I rinsed and dried the glass. 4. Applied Opti Glass Coating per the instructions on the bottle and videos I've seen with Yvan. 5. Buffed off high spots after 2-3 minutes using an Eagle Edgeless Rag Company towel. Now, the main problem I had was trying to buff off the high spots. After waiting the recommended 2 minutes, it was very difficult to level the high spots (almost felt like I was trying to wipe off something that was on the other side of the glass). I wiped until I felt like I had gotten everything I could and there were no more visible spots/streaks. When I came out this morning the windows were covered in condensation/dew from overnight and in several places, you could see the swirl pattern from when I applied the coating. That to me was an indicator of something gone wrong as I would think that the windshield and windows would be perfectly uniform in the appearance with condensation if done correctly. I know the directions say to apply when temps are between 60 and 90*F and not in direct sunlight but I've seen another post on here saying the minimum for any coating is 40*F. Yesterday it was 55 and cloudy so I don't think temperature was the issue. What could I have done differently that would help with the high spots and avoid the non-uniform look of the glass when dew gets on it?
  5. Hello everyone. Yesterday I received my order of Optimum Glass coating and decided I couldn't wait so I coated the windows/windshield on my in-laws car (my car has Opti-Seal and I didn't feel like breaking out the polisher to remove it). I've seen all the OPT videos and read the instructions on the bottle (and followed them) but still had some questions/issues with application. First, the process I used: 1. Clean with ONR. 2. Some of the windows had some bad water spotting, so I decided to use MDR first to remove them. After a couple applications of MDR and being mostly happy with the results (another issue for another thread), I rinsed completely. 3. Just to be thorough, I clayed the glass as well to make sure there were no other contaminants on the glass. Then I rinsed and dried the glass. 4. Applied Opti Glass Coating per the instructions on the bottle and videos I've seen with Yvan. 5. Buffed off high spots after 2-3 minutes using an Eagle Edgeless Rag Company towel. Now, the main problem I had was trying to buff off the high spots. After waiting the recommended 2 minutes, it was very difficult to level the high spots (almost felt like I was trying to wipe off something that was on the other side of the glass). I wiped until I felt like I had gotten everything I could and there were no more visible spots/streaks. When I came out this morning the windows were covered in condensation/dew from overnight and in several places, you could see the swirl pattern from when I applied the coating. That to me was an indicator of something gone wrong as I would think that the windshield and windows would be perfectly uniform in the appearance with condensation if done correctly. I know the directions say to apply when temps are between 60 and 90*F and not in direct sunlight but I've seen another post on here saying the minimum for any coating is 40*F. Yesterday it was 55 and cloudy so I don't think temperature was the issue. What could I have done differently that would help with the high spots and avoid the non-uniform look of the glass when dew gets on it?
  6. Opti-seal questions

    Hyper Polish was what I used so it sounds like I am good to go. I guess finger prints are something I'm just going to have to get used to dealing with now that I have a corrected vehicle. It never seemed to be an issue on my non-corrected cars (or maybe I just never noticed).
  7. Opti-seal questions

    When applying Opti-Seal after a paint correction, is it mandatory to wipe the car down with an IPA solution or Power Clean before applying Opti-Seal or is this something that is just suggested? In my case, I corrected each panel one at a time as my free time allowed (being a hobbyist) and then protected each panel with OCW before moving on to the next section/panel. When I finished the whole car, I did a traditional 2 bucket wash using GG car soap and GD IUDJ as a water softener, then dried the vehicle before applying Opti-Seal and topping with OCW. Was this an acceptable method? Also curious how well OS and/or OCW are supposed to repel dust and fingerprints once applied? The paint looks very glossy now and has great slickness to the touch but seems to attract fingerprints like never before. Even with clean hands just opening and closing the door will leave fingerprint smudges.
  8. I don't know about other manufacturers but GM started using base/clear paint in the mid 80s, at least for f-bodies.
  9. Yes, it is clear coated and you're right about the clear coat failure. It's hard to see in the picture, but the clear coat is peeling and there is a basketball size "bald spot" towards the rear center of the roof where the paint is exposed. The front of the roof however does not have of this clear coat peeling or bubbling. I'm a bit concerned when you say clear coat failure in reference to the severe oxidation though. Does failure mean there is no hope to stop the spreading of the clear coat peeling? I understand that there is no reversing the damage already done but my goal when doing this is to be able to stop the spread of the clear coat peeling by compounding, polishing, and sealing the oxidized/dull areas that have yet begun to peel/bubble.
  10. 91 GTA

  11. Agreed. There are two videos from The Rag Company featuring Hyper Compound and one from AutoGeek but outside of that, there isn't a whole lot of info in video or word form.
  12. I went straight to the compound simply because of how bad the paint is right there. If I could share a picture, I think you'd agree. For the parts of the car that have been repainted, I'll probably use either the Hyper Polish or the Intensive Polish because there's no oxidation or deep scratches to worry about (just some swirl marks).
  13. Yea, I believe they do use the ZenTool in those videos. I've seen another where they use a rotary and I know the technique is completely different for that vs a DA so it was not as helpful. I am trying to correct severe oxidation, waterspots, and scratches on my 91 GTA. I have a picture but not sure how to attach. It is of a portion of the roof that I am currently working on. This panel turned out pretty well but it took a long time and several applications of the compound to get there (due to the dusting). This portion of the car has the original paint. I've also used the hyper twins on the rear spoiler, which has been repainted and only had some swirl marks (no oxidation) and still experienced the dusting.
  14. I believe the compound is white. I just purchased this compound maybe a month ago so it should be the newest version. I've found that I don't really need to prime the pad when using the polish either, just the compound. How do you prime the pad when using Hyper Compound? Little to no pressure is what is recommended in all the videos and posts I've seen from Yvan Lacroix when talking about the hyper twins but perhaps that is only valid with a particular buffer. I've been doing this work in my heat/cooled garage (approx. 70* inside with no direct sunlight on the car).
  15. Hi all. I'm brand new to the world of paint correction and optimum. I got turned on to Optimum products from watching youtube videos after looking for ways to better protect my DD. Two of the products I've been using recently is Hyper Compound and Hyper Polish. Hyper Polish is great and I've had no issues with it. But the Hyper Compound is dusting really bad even though it is supposed to be a zero dust product so I must be doing something wrong. Hoping the experts here can provide some feedback. Here's my setup: PC7424 with 5" backing plate and orange hex logic pad used on a speed of 5. When I start off with a new pad, I'll saturate the pad with my detail spray (Infinite use detail juice), work it in a little bit by hand and then spin the pad on speed setting 6 to get the excess liquid off the pad. I'll then add my single spray of Hyper Compound. After dabbing the pad around by 1.5'x 1.5' working area, I'll begin to work. I usually only get one full pass covering the entire work area before the compound looks like it starts to dry up and begin dusting during my second pass of my cross hatch pattern. I've tried adding one spritz of detail spray and continuing to work but it just makes it really runny for a bit, then dries up again. I'm also using little to no pressure on the polisher so I'm not sure what else to change/adjust. Any ideas where I may be going wrong?