theTHiiiNG

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Everything posted by theTHiiiNG

  1. For the last 2 weeks I've been trialing a test of Optimum's Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL. This was very subjective, and hopefully honest test. Spoiler alert - I will start out by saying both products are fantastic and are more than worthy of purchasing. I didn't get any great photos as it was too hard to tell the subtle differences between them so you will have to take my word for it. Both products are water based and can be diluted if needed/desired. Optimum Opti-Bond + Leaves a perfectly smooth high gloss finish with no greasy residue + Can be diluted further to reduce gloss (I wouldn't go past 1:1 as the consistency gets... weird) + Very good value for money (as usual with Optimum) + Although not really obvious, can be used on external (and even internal) plastic trim and rubber + Still going strong after 2 weeks in a daily driven car in a variety of weather + Does not appear blotchy or streaky if applied unevenly - The smell is hard to describe, but it's not great - Has trouble bonding to older rubber that has started to dry - The high gloss look may not be desirable for some Applied undiluted to the tyre. CarPro PERL + Produces a fantastic satin finish on everything it touches + Has some kind of darkening effect built in that makes rubber look new + Smells amazing! + Can be diluted down for use on leather and plastic if needed + Very good value for money when purchased in the 1 litre size - Produced an unsightly cheap silicone look in direct sunlight when used at full strength (on tyres at least) - If you are after a high gloss, wet look, this may not be the best choice - Durability on tyres is only average. Starting to noticabley drop off after 2 weeks - Due to the darkening effect, it can appear 'patchy' if you don't apply it evenly Applied undiluted to the tyre. Both products perform great once you get the hang of the quirks each have. For instance - PERL will leave a streaky finish if not wiped down soon after applying and Opti-Bond turns into a really weird consistency if you dilute it too much. I will say that a huge downside to PERL is when applied at full strength to tyres it has a horrible cheap silicone dressing look to it when hit by full sunlight. I took my car to a friends house to actually show it off after washing it on the weekend and this actually made me embarrassed when he saw it. I would happily choose and love using either product, but if I had to go with only one I would give the very slightest advantage to Opti-Bond. I think the name should be changed to Opti-Bond External Trim and Tire Gel as in my experience it actually outperformed PERL on external plastic. I applied it to my mothers car which had very faded external plastic trim, and upon seeing the car weeks later it was still performing well even though it sits outside 24/7. If you have any experiences with either of these products please let me know!
  2. As stated in other posts I use OID mixed with about 20% OCW to maintain the full wax I do about every month or so. This seems to work great as the products mix really well together, but I don't have the issue some people get where they apply too much product and it smears. No matter how much I use when drying the car I have zero issues of any kind. I absolutely love OCW and any issues with durability are FAR outweighed by the ease of just adding another layer of it.
  3. theTHiiiNG

    New Member From VA

    Welcome! I fell victim to Optimum's entire line up for the same reason. There's no flashy marketing or BS, the products just work!
  4. After months of testing I think I've found my favourite drying aid I've ever used. There's been a lot of talk about mixing products on the forum lately which is something I'm very interested in. It's a fun way to experiment with different products to come up with uses the manufacturer did not expect (or test). I mix Optimum Instant Detailer at the standard dilution with 10-20% Optimum Car Wax and use it as a maintenance wash drying aid. This provides the following benefits: 'Tops up' the full wax I do about once every month or two It eliminates the usual issue of using too much wax that some people seem to do The mild cleaners in the OID safely take care of any spots I might have missed while washing It's impossible to use too much as it seems to just melt in to the paint Lubricates the surface much better when drying compared to OCW or Opti-Seal alone Provides incredible gloss levels when topping it over other products such as Opti-Seal I am absolutely in love with it and actually look forward to drying my car after a wash because of the experience. I've attached a (average) picture of the results from the last wash I did. I did my usual ONR wash but pre-rinsed with a pressure washer due to the amount of dirt that was on the car.
  5. theTHiiiNG

    How to clean Big Red Sponge

    For some reason I find ONR stains wash media really badly. I have a couple of was mitts and the one I sometimes use with ONR is dark brown/black. It is actually very clean but the staining doesn't come out even after washing several times. In the past I have gone back to doing a 'normal' 2 bucket wash a few times with it and the colour goes back to normal. I'm really OCD about that too so I now use black microfiber towels to wash with ONR so I can't see it.
  6. theTHiiiNG

    The Ultimate Drying Aid

    I have, and it works pretty well, although I don't like ONR as a drying aid anywhere near as much as OID. OID seems to melt in to the paint (especially with OCW added) where as ONR sits on top of the surface. This is obviously not a very scientific explanation, but it seems to not matter how much OID I use - I get no streaking or build up on the paint. Plus the combination smells amazing!
  7. theTHiiiNG

    Optimum Opti-Bond vs CarPro PERL

    In my experience you will get 2+ weeks in great weather for PERL or Opti-Bond. If it rains or you drive through puddles they do perform poorly as they are water based. They both look great but PERL is slightly more finicky (i.e it needs to be wiped down after about 10-15 minutes otherwise you can get streaks). Opti-Bond is almost impossible to mess up. I actually really like the look and ease of application from 303, but I would get about only a week of durability even in perfect weather.
  8. theTHiiiNG

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    I really hate having to clean very dirty wheels. Switching to ceramic pads was a massive difference in how bad they got each week. I've never coated my wheels before but since they are in need of being refurbished (curb rash and minor chips/dings from previous owner) this will definitely be my next step.
  9. theTHiiiNG

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    It depends on how dirty they are, but since switching to ceramic pads I usually just use normal car shampoo with a little wheel cleaner added in. Since it foams so much I don't need much product - probably only about 50ml of product to 700ml of water. It does make a little bit of a mess on the garage floor, especially if your wheels are really dirty. In the end I was backing the car out of the garage and cleaning the wheels with a hose and the IK Foam sprayer in the traditional way and then pulling it back in and doing my normal ONR wash.
  10. theTHiiiNG

    The Ultimate Drying Aid

    There are none that I have found. There is no streaking on even deliberate 'over use' of the mixture. I prefer to do a proper application of Opti-Seal and Car Wax every month or so and maintain with this as a drying aid for now.
  11. theTHiiiNG

    Figuring out Opti-coat Maintenance

    I agree with using ONR instead of OID. It provides a lot more lubrication and is very quick to do. If the car really isn't dirty and has just been rained on you could fill a pump sprayer with ONR solution and completely cover the car in it then proceed to dry with a proper drying towel. Just curious though, why do you need to dry it after being rained on?
  12. theTHiiiNG

    Figuring out Opti-coat Maintenance

    Those streaks that you found are perfectly normal and are just high spots that need a second pass as you said. You will have a hard time using too much product with Opti-Seal or Hyper Seal, but there is not really any benefit to adding countless layers of product. There is diminishing returns when using sealants, waxes and coatings. I find that applying one good layer, letting it cure for the required time, then adding a quick second layer is all that is required. Any more and you are probably just wasting product, money and time. Using Hyper Seal as your drying aid with each wash is more then enough to keep it topped up for many months before needing a full decontamination wash and reapplication of it.
  13. Good stuff! Since no company has the money to spend on R&D to test all of these combinations it's great that we can all experiment like this and decide what works and what doesn't. As I've said before, I am very happy with the 10% OCW added to OID and have been using it for many months (and may even increase the % of OCW next time I make a bottle up).
  14. I'm not a fan of mixing different brands like this. Meguiars Gold Class definetely leaves glossing agents behind that may not be removed by washing afterwards with M-Wash. I also think Meguiars performs poorly on warmer days where it can dry and leave streaks behind. It does foam well, but the thickness of foam is very overrated in my experience. Optimum Car Soap is a great option as it's very cheap and foams incredibly well. It might be worth a look in this case.
  15. theTHiiiNG

    Finally finished 14 hour exterior detail-06 GTO

    Great job! I love the hard candy type look it gives paint, especially red like this one. I'm trying to resist buying Gloss Coat for my car for a few months until I get through some more Opti Seal (it seems to last forever), but posts like this don't make it easy. Invisible Glass is a good glass cleaner, but I don't bother anymore and just use ONR and Opti Seal which gives me great results without the need for a dedicated product. PS. You get extra points off me for having an Australian made car!
  16. theTHiiiNG

    Opti-Clean & OCW?

    I've used the Wax and Instant Detailer combo for many months (at the exact 10% dilution above) and can confirm it works great. My thought process was to use that as a drying aid to maintain a full car wax application every month or so. The only thing I've learnt when using chemicals that have been mixed like this is to shake very well before use. They have a tendency to separate sometimes which can affect the results. Mixing with Opti-Seal - now there's something I have never thought of! It would be great to get Dr. G's take one this one. If I could mix Opti-Seal and Car Wax into some kind of crazy drying aid that would be the ultimate for me. For some reason this doesn't seem like it would work though, but I have absolutely no proof either way...
  17. theTHiiiNG

    Opti-Clean & OCW?

    I'm also curious about doing this. I can't see why it wouldn't work as isn't Opti-Clean basically just a stronger version of ONR? I've added a small amount of Optimum Car Wax to Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer with very good results.
  18. I buy the 12 pack of yellow foam applicators on eBay for a couple of bucks and use them a few times before throwing them out and going to a new one. Not great for the environment I know, but they are so cheap it's just so much easier. No matter how much I clean the tyres on my car my foam applicators still get gross in no time.
  19. theTHiiiNG

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    I think the ONR pre-spray is very important. I find it 'sticks' to the paint and helps break down what ever is on there before getting to the actual physical wash part. This is much more effective than simply using water to pre-wash the car as I find it just runs off and drys in no time, even in cold weather. This allows me to use slow, straight lines with the wash media without having to go back over sections multiple times as some of the work is already done just by having ONR sitting on the car. This will be near impossible on a warm day or in the sun as it will likely dry on the car. In the early days of my use of the product I actually scratched my car trying to get a stubborn bug off by scrubbing (even gently) with my wash mitt. This was obviously a very stupid thing to do because you will scratch your paint doing this no matter how you wash the car. Pre-soaking bugs and other similar things breaks them down just enough to come off in one pass by the time I get to washing. If they still don't come off I will soak them in Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer after drying the car and gently wipe them off with an ONR soaked towel. It's very rare that I need to do this these days. I am interested in the Chemical Guys sponge you use as I am still not completely sold on the multiple microfiber towel method as there is no real cushioning of it between your hand and the paint. The BRS is still not for sale in Australia for some reason.
  20. theTHiiiNG

    Hyper seal or opti seal on gloss coat?

    As someone who has yet to try Hyper Seal, that's really good to know. Optimum Car Wax and Opti-Seal are so good I'm struggling to move on to something else.
  21. theTHiiiNG

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    Hmmm that's odd. Your method is very similar to mine but takes 2+ hours. It might be a good idea to break down each section and see how long individual parts are taking to try and get the time down a bit. If I was to roughly guess mine it would be: Setup time - 10 minutes Wheel cleaning - 3-5 minutes per wheel ONR spray down - 5 minutes ONR wash - 15 minutes Dry + Opti-Seal or Car Wax as drying aid - 10 minutes Pack up - 5 minutes I don't believe switching products or drying aids will add any efficiency to your wash as they are very similar to what you use now. I switch up between Opti-Seal and Car Wax as a drying aid but they both take about the same amount of time. I'm yet to try the BRS as it isn't for sale in Australia, but I do like the idea of it as it is specifically designed for us with ONR. I'm generally in my garage out of the sun (usually at night lately) so I have never had issues with product drying on the surface. I would simply switch up my method and go panel by panel if this was an issue, but I think it would add time to my wash for sure. Maybe changing the time of day you do your wash might help as you won't be constantly chasing the product drying on the surface. I realise this isn't always possible, especially in summer where it is always hot (even at night here). I don't think there's anything wrong with taking 2 hours to wash a car as it is an enjoyable process and I find it very relaxing when I am doing it. I just also like improving my efficiency when doing it to keep it interesting. I did a write up recently here on my exact method and it is very similar to yours, but I have since improved things by using the IK Foam sprayer on wheels which was a huge improvement as they probably took me twice as long without it. I foam up the wheels and wheel wells, scrub away with various brushes and then simply rinse the whole area down after I am done with the ONR in a pressure sprayer. If improving efficiency is what you are after I do think breaking down each part and seeing exactly how long it takes you can expose areas that can be sped up. Nick
  22. theTHiiiNG

    Hyper seal or opti seal on gloss coat?

    Yes, that is overkill. Opti Seal is often used an hour after Gloss Coat to protect it while it cures. Hyper Seal is the better choice for a drying aid or 'maintenance' product due to it being formulated for use on coated cars. Neither product is really needed after Gloss Coat has cured, but Hyper Seal is the better choice. Using all three won't provide extra gloss.
  23. theTHiiiNG

    New OPT Deatiler in Wyoming

    Welcome! ONR is incredible and probably the most versatile detailing product ever created.
  24. theTHiiiNG

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    Actually sorry, I didn't realise you said you had the IK 9 until now. I only gave the 1.5 for now. Quality is excellent but the spray time is slightly disappointing.
  25. theTHiiiNG

    Optimum Glass Coat Troubles

    Sounds like they got careless with the install and touched the inside while coating the outside maybe? Polishing is probably your best bet if nothing else removes it.