Detail Mutant

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Detail Mutant last won the day on May 22

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About Detail Mutant

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    Optimum Enthusiast

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    Male
  • Location
    Waterloo, Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    Detailing cars to perfection

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  1. Detail Mutant

    Instant detailer

    I typically apply one full spray OID per panel (4-6 sq. ft surface area) but usually reserve for use on a dry car to boost gloss. I find Hyper Seal is a better drying aid on a ceramic coated car than OID as it adds additional protection (SiO2 based spray sealant). When using ONR to wash, you don't typically need a drying aid for the added lubrication.
  2. Detail Mutant

    New Optimum Ultra Clay Towel Question

    "Clay lubricant" in theory can be any liquid that provides some form of lubricity between the clay media and the surface you are rubbing against. The standard Optimum clay lubricant is ONR at a dilution ratio 64:1. In other cases you can use a spray wax (like Optimum Spray Wax) or even a detail spray if you would rather depending on needs. I have in the past even used Ferrex as clay lubricant with the Ultimate Clay towel soaked with 256:1 ONR solution. The Optimum Ultra Clay Towel ( or any synthetic clay surface) is shipped with a protective coating which needs to be removed before applying to paint otherwise there is higher risk of marring the paint. For initially removing this coating, ONR at 256:1 against windows should be acceptable clay lube as there should no risks of marring the hard glass surface. But depending on application against a painted surface, it is generally safer to use the higher 64:1 ONR dilution ratio.
  3. Dasler, You may want to consider a pre-wash or strip wash step to your process to ensure you have removed any previous wax/sealant. Depending on type and age of previous wax/sealant, the iron remover and clay process may not be enough to remove some of these newer sealants which require a fairly heavy APC (non pH neutral) to remove. If previous protectant is not fully removed, it can interfere with applying a different sealant. Optimum Power Clean diluted at 1:3 applied to paint and agitated with ONR dampened microfiber towel as a pre-wash does an excellent job of removing most sealants. If you do this as your first step, then you can apply Ferrex (Optimum Iron Remover) and agitate with ONR dampened Ultimate Clay Towel (Optimum synthetic clay media) which combines iron removal and clay in single step. Follow this up with rinse and standard wash process before applying sealant. Note if the vehicle is heavily contaminated (been several years since last clay application) then it best to separate steps and use proper clay bar as synthetic clay media is most appropriate for light to moderate contamination.
  4. Detail Mutant

    Paint Correction Help Needed

    Generally the foam pad should just be slightly damp before applying hyper polish/compound (ie prime in pad washer a few times then spin dry at speed 6 or highest speed). For 5 and 6 inch pads generally one full pull of Hyper Polish is used (for 8 inch wool I use 1 and half sprays and 3 inch pads half spray). It is important to thoroughly shake Hyper Polish (and other sprayable compounds) to ensure the abrasives in the liquid are well mixed to ensure consistent cut. During Optimization training, Yvan recommended to add some stainless steel nuts to the bottle of Hyper Polish (and other sprayable compounds) which aids in mixing up the contents of the spray bottle when you shake it.
  5. Detail Mutant

    Onr dilution rate with ro water

    Clasman, Standard recommended wash solution dilution ratio is 256:1 which you are effectively at (58.6 ml to 15 L to be precise). Since you are using Reverse Osmosis water there should be no contaminants and I would stick with this dilution ratio . In my case, I live in a region with moderately hard water (260 ppm), so I will typically use a slightly higher dilution ratio (around 225:1) to compensate for the ONR attacking the minerals within the water. For your pre-spray solution, you may want to consider a higher dilution ratio depending on how you use it (apply and rinse with clean water before using BRS) and level of dirt/contaminants on the vehicle. In the past, I have used as high as 64:1 dilution ratio especially in winter when there is excessive salt build up on the panels. But if the current 256:1 dilution ratio works for your conditions, I would stick with it.
  6. Detail Mutant

    ONR Wash and Wax with Opti-Seal

    Kiddetailer, My understanding is Turtle Wax Ice and Meguiars D156 Synthetic Wax are both synthetic waxes (no natural carnauba wax but effectively a polymer sealant like Opti-Seal). Since Optimum doesn't test other companies products, there is no guarantee that these products can migrate through the Optimum Spray Wax like Opti-Seal. If you prefer to use these products, it might be best to reverse your process by applying synthetic wax as drying aid during ONR wash and follow up with Optimum Car Wax afterwards. The only time to reverse the process is when you are in fact using a clay towel (or intend to use Opti-Seal which is confirmed to migrate through). This is because Optimum Spray Wax provides the best lubricity in order to minimize the risk of marring using the clay media (abrasive) as demonstrated by Yvan. If you intend to perform some form of paint correction after claying then Optimum Car Wax should not be necessary. When layering natural carnauba wax, the recommended cure time between coats is 1-24 hours which will depend on environment and method of application as it requires time to dry as a hard layer before second layer is applied. Because Optimum Car Wax comes in spray form, I assume cure time in most cases would be 1 hour or less. Polymer sealants are different as they attempt to form a chemical bond with the paint and should be applied directly on bare paint wherever possible for maximum durability otherwise as you shed the shorter life carnauba wax, you will also loose the polymer sealant.
  7. Detail Mutant

    Optiseal after Optigloss

    Scott, Optiseal on coated paint I find is best used as a drying aid (spray when panel is wet and wipe off) as it provides added slickness when using a drying towel to prevent marring. But Hyperseal can accomplish the same thing with added topper protection that will last longer. As Ron indicated, Opti-Coat products can only be purchased from opticoat.com or from your local Opti-Coat authorized installer. Optiseal I find is best used on the interior (especially interior windows). Optimum Spray Wax will work over Gloss Coat and is the recommended lubricant for the Ultimate clay towel over Optimum coated vehicles. But again the longevity of the topper is significantly reduced on coated paint vs bare paint. OSW will also change the hydrophobic properties while it is present on the coating (more beading and less sheeting) potentially reducing the self cleaning properties. But the OSW will generally provide more "depth" to the observed reflection in the paint. Besides Hyperseal, the one other Optimum product that I find adds a lot to a coated car is Optimum Instant Detailer (OID). The gloss enhancers in OID really increase the shine of the coating. You don't really need Optiseal or OSW for additional protection with coating so best to go with OID that makes the paint pop if you can't easily get some Hyperseal. I know some people complain about the cost of Hyperseal but on a volume basis it is in fact cheaper than optiseal at regular price ( it is generally 50-75% more expensive but you are getting twice the volume, 16 oz vs 8 oz). Just don't expect any discounts on listed price for Opti-Coat products unlike other Optimum products due to the limited distribution. Another product to consider as a topper is P&S Beadmaker. It adds lots of slickness and increases gloss significantly after the full 4 hour cure window. Just note that it's impact to hydrophobic properties will be similar to OSW (intense beading and less sheeting). And a lot more product is required to be applied (4 to 8 oz for full initial application).
  8. Detail Mutant

    Optiseal after Optigloss

    The best time to apply Optiseal after any Optimum coating (Gloss Coat or any professional Opti-Coat coating) is 1 hour after application. It provides addition protection for the coating during the full chemical resistant 7 day cure period (bird droppings, hard water, etc). During the cure period, the coating will shed the Optiseal and my understanding is Optiseal will be shed fairly quickly on any Optimum coating. A better product to use for maintenance after the 7 day cure window (do not use in first 7 days as it can impact cure of coating) is Opti-Coat Hyper seal. It is an SiO2 based spray sealant that will help maintain SiO2 component in the hybrid Gloss Coat (both SiO2 and SiC).
  9. Detail Mutant

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    If you are happy with water beading/sheeting then probably just continue with your normal maintenance washes. You may want to consider doing an annual decontamination wash as shown in the following youtube video to improve the coatings hydrophobic properties (Power Clean, Ferrex with Ultimate Clay Towel and MDR application before normal wash). Opti-Coat, Ceramic Coating, 9 Years Later?? Using Opti-Coat Hyper-Seal as a topper/drying aid will also help extend the life of the coating.
  10. Detail Mutant

    Big Red Sponge Care

    I agree with No Soap's recommendation of storing in ONR as the BRS is ready for the next wash without any pre-planning. I personally use a 5 L (just over a gallon) old ice cream bucket with lid to store my BRS in approx. 3/4 gallon of ONR solution (256:1). When I do my next wash, I will dump the BRS with ONR into my wash bucket and add more ONR solution as needed. After I finish my wash, I will wring our BRS and place in fresh ONR solution. This is to ensure to use old sitting ONR solution as there have been cases of micro organisms growing in ONR if stored for very long time (best to keep covered in moderately cool environment out of direct sunlight). After 10-20 car washes (depending how dirty vehicles were) I clean BRS with a few sprays of foam cleaner ( I currently use Griots microfiber and foam cleaner) in order to release the significant dirt trapped in the pores of the sponge. Power Clean also works for this but I find a dedicated foam cleaner to more effective. Just make sure to thoroughly rinse the BRS of the cleaning solution before placing back in ONR bucket.
  11. Detail Mutant

    Not removing Hyper Compound Residue

    During the Optimization course I attended with Yvan I asked a similar question assuming that the abrasives were diminishing. I was informed that Hyper Compound (or any other Hyper product) does not use diminishing abrasives. I followed up with asking about those abrasives impacting the following polishing stage when left on the paint surface and Yvan indicated that most of the abrasives are picked up in the pad so that few are left on the paint surface impacting the follow up polish stage. He also indicated that by applying a light spritz of ONR after working Hyper Compound will allow for additional cut/working time (assume ONR allows abrasives trapped in pad to migrate back to paint surface. Didn't ask about the paint swarf but assume similar concept that most is picked up and trapped in pad as you work compound leaving minimal amount on paint surface.
  12. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    I think the 1:16 dilution ratio for ONR is too high. I believe the highest recommended dilution ratio is 1:32 as a quick detailer/waterless wash solution (or 1 oz to approx. 1 L). Anything higher can be subject to streaking and is just wasteful. I used to use 1:32 dilution ratio for pre-soak but found it not much more effective than standard 1:256 dilution ratio especially when using pressure washer with warm water (Worx Hydroshot). For specific dirty areas with lots of bonded contaminants, I will typically pre-soak with Power Clean at 1:5 dilution ratio which has more bite than any ONR dilution ratio. Your step 3 is maybe unnecessary especially since the pre-soak (step 1) and pressure washer rinse (step 2) will have removed 90-95% of contaminants from the vehicle surface making washing with BRS and ONR very safe. Before I acquired my Worx Hydroshot, I was washing my car in winter with only pre-soak and then attacking panels with BRS. I could here "crunching" as the BRS passed over the panel but no noticeable scratches.
  13. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    jasbir204, For those areas treated with Opti-Coat Pro you are chemically protected that there should be no concern. The issue is potential mechanical abrasion from foreign objects (ie people) rubbing against the panels with all those contaminants (especially sand) which could lightly scratch the paint (even with Opti-Coat). I would consider doing the pre-wash steps (1-4)from my winter wash procedure to knock off the heavy contaminants if you don't have time for full wash or consider running through touchless car wash .
  14. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    Exception being not recommended to coat front windshield (or any other glass subject to wiper blade abrasion). In those areas, it is recommended to use Opti-Glass coating with periodic maintenance top-up of Optimum Glass Clean and Protect. I personally did not coat any of my glass with Gloss Coat. I just use Optimum Glass Clean and Protect after every wash and my front windshield was coated with Opti-Pro Glass coating during Optimization training (my car was used as demo for application). Because I'm cheap (like Yvan), I would not waste Gloss Coat to apply second coat to potentially amp gloss. Best and most effective way to amp gloss is to use Hyper Seal after the 7 day fully cured window as well as continuous maintenance drying aid. I would prefer to save a few cc of Gloss Coat as insurance to reapply to select panels that may get scratched and need compounding/polishing followed by re-application of Gloss Coat.
  15. Detail Mutant

    Best Paint Correction Product

    Most German makes are considered "hard" paint (exception being Porsche and select Audi models) so will typically require more aggression to achieve required paint correction. So Ron's suggestion of Optimum Orange (medium cut) foam pad for polishing is probably most appropriate to start. For "medium" to "soft" paint, you would typically use Optimum Black (light cut) foam pad for polishing and in some extremely "soft" paint cases you might want to use Optimum Blue (very light cut) foam pad. Depending on level of defect in paint, you may need to add Compound step prior to polishing (Hyper Compound with Hyper Wool pad on DA for maximum correction). If deeper scratches are limited to select areas, I would probably hand wet sand (using ONR solution as lubricant) those areas instead of Compound step. I typically use 3000 grit 3M Trizac which incorporates foam backing to make it safer to use (minimize high pressure points). Wet sanding with 3000 grit can actually be more effective at removing scratches while removing less clear coat than compound step. I've done this several times on my BMW which has relatively "hard" paint. For recent model GM paint (specifically GM trucks I believe), Optimum created the White foam pad which is supposed to be light cut yet stiff foam composition. Certain GM vehicles are prone to light micro marring when using a long throw (21 mm) DA with lighter more flexible foam. This is due to side to side action of DA combined with foam not holding shape during this action. My understanding is if you use smaller throw (8 mm - 15 mm) DA machine, you are less likely to encounter this problem using the standard Optimum foam pads. The key to paint correction is having several tools available (different pads and compounds) and doing a test spot to determine what process works best to achieve your desired results. Because every car and car owner expectation is different.