Most German makes are considered "hard" paint (exception being Porsche and select Audi models) so will typically require more aggression to achieve required paint correction. So Ron's suggestion of Optimum Orange (medium cut) foam pad for polishing is probably most appropriate to start. For "medium" to "soft" paint, you would typically use Optimum Black (light cut) foam pad for polishing and in some extremely "soft" paint cases you might want to use Optimum Blue (very light cut) foam pad.
Depending on level of defect in paint, you may need to add Compound step prior to polishing (Hyper Compound with Hyper Wool pad on DA for maximum correction). If deeper scratches are limited to select areas, I would probably hand wet sand (using ONR solution as lubricant) those areas instead of Compound step. I typically use 3000 grit 3M Trizac which incorporates foam backing to make it safer to use (minimize high pressure points). Wet sanding with 3000 grit can actually be more effective at removing scratches while removing less clear coat than compound step. I've done this several times on my BMW which has relatively "hard" paint.
For recent model GM paint (specifically GM trucks I believe), Optimum created the White foam pad which is supposed to be light cut yet stiff foam composition. Certain GM vehicles are prone to light micro marring when using a long throw (21 mm) DA with lighter more flexible foam. This is due to side to side action of DA combined with foam not holding shape during this action. My understanding is if you use smaller throw (8 mm - 15 mm) DA machine, you are less likely to encounter this problem using the standard Optimum foam pads.
The key to paint correction is having several tools available (different pads and compounds) and doing a test spot to determine what process works best to achieve your desired results. Because every car and car owner expectation is different.