Detail Mutant

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Detail Mutant last won the day on February 4

Detail Mutant had the most liked content!

About Detail Mutant

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    Optimum Apprentice

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    Male
  • Location
    Waterloo, Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    Detailing cars to perfection

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  1. Detail Mutant

    Not removing Hyper Compound Residue

    During the Optimization course I attended with Yvan I asked a similar question assuming that the abrasives were diminishing. I was informed that Hyper Compound (or any other Hyper product) does not use diminishing abrasives. I followed up with asking about those abrasives impacting the following polishing stage when left on the paint surface and Yvan indicated that most of the abrasives are picked up in the pad so that few are left on the paint surface impacting the follow up polish stage. He also indicated that by applying a light spritz of ONR after working Hyper Compound will allow for additional cut/working time (assume ONR allows abrasives trapped in pad to migrate back to paint surface. Didn't ask about the paint swarf but assume similar concept that most is picked up and trapped in pad as you work compound leaving minimal amount on paint surface.
  2. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    I think the 1:16 dilution ratio for ONR is too high. I believe the highest recommended dilution ratio is 1:32 as a quick detailer/waterless wash solution (or 1 oz to approx. 1 L). Anything higher can be subject to streaking and is just wasteful. I used to use 1:32 dilution ratio for pre-soak but found it not much more effective than standard 1:256 dilution ratio especially when using pressure washer with warm water (Worx Hydroshot). For specific dirty areas with lots of bonded contaminants, I will typically pre-soak with Power Clean at 1:5 dilution ratio which has more bite than any ONR dilution ratio. Your step 3 is maybe unnecessary especially since the pre-soak (step 1) and pressure washer rinse (step 2) will have removed 90-95% of contaminants from the vehicle surface making washing with BRS and ONR very safe. Before I acquired my Worx Hydroshot, I was washing my car in winter with only pre-soak and then attacking panels with BRS. I could here "crunching" as the BRS passed over the panel but no noticeable scratches.
  3. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    jasbir204, For those areas treated with Opti-Coat Pro you are chemically protected that there should be no concern. The issue is potential mechanical abrasion from foreign objects (ie people) rubbing against the panels with all those contaminants (especially sand) which could lightly scratch the paint (even with Opti-Coat). I would consider doing the pre-wash steps (1-4)from my winter wash procedure to knock off the heavy contaminants if you don't have time for full wash or consider running through touchless car wash .
  4. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    Exception being not recommended to coat front windshield (or any other glass subject to wiper blade abrasion). In those areas, it is recommended to use Opti-Glass coating with periodic maintenance top-up of Optimum Glass Clean and Protect. I personally did not coat any of my glass with Gloss Coat. I just use Optimum Glass Clean and Protect after every wash and my front windshield was coated with Opti-Pro Glass coating during Optimization training (my car was used as demo for application). Because I'm cheap (like Yvan), I would not waste Gloss Coat to apply second coat to potentially amp gloss. Best and most effective way to amp gloss is to use Hyper Seal after the 7 day fully cured window as well as continuous maintenance drying aid. I would prefer to save a few cc of Gloss Coat as insurance to reapply to select panels that may get scratched and need compounding/polishing followed by re-application of Gloss Coat.
  5. Detail Mutant

    Best Paint Correction Product

    Most German makes are considered "hard" paint (exception being Porsche and select Audi models) so will typically require more aggression to achieve required paint correction. So Ron's suggestion of Optimum Orange (medium cut) foam pad for polishing is probably most appropriate to start. For "medium" to "soft" paint, you would typically use Optimum Black (light cut) foam pad for polishing and in some extremely "soft" paint cases you might want to use Optimum Blue (very light cut) foam pad. Depending on level of defect in paint, you may need to add Compound step prior to polishing (Hyper Compound with Hyper Wool pad on DA for maximum correction). If deeper scratches are limited to select areas, I would probably hand wet sand (using ONR solution as lubricant) those areas instead of Compound step. I typically use 3000 grit 3M Trizac which incorporates foam backing to make it safer to use (minimize high pressure points). Wet sanding with 3000 grit can actually be more effective at removing scratches while removing less clear coat than compound step. I've done this several times on my BMW which has relatively "hard" paint. For recent model GM paint (specifically GM trucks I believe), Optimum created the White foam pad which is supposed to be light cut yet stiff foam composition. Certain GM vehicles are prone to light micro marring when using a long throw (21 mm) DA with lighter more flexible foam. This is due to side to side action of DA combined with foam not holding shape during this action. My understanding is if you use smaller throw (8 mm - 15 mm) DA machine, you are less likely to encounter this problem using the standard Optimum foam pads. The key to paint correction is having several tools available (different pads and compounds) and doing a test spot to determine what process works best to achieve your desired results. Because every car and car owner expectation is different.
  6. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    I wouldn't bother with 2 coats as SiC does not lend itself to a layering (Opti Pro coatings cannot be layered). The only reason for a second coat is if you were not diligent on the first coat and missed some areas and might get those areas on second coat. I would recommend you take your time and apply more thoroughly in a single coat. Gloss coat is capable of being applied to the textured plastic fenders and bumpers but will probably not offer the same level of longevity as when applied to clear coat paint. I would apply the initial Gloss coat to the plastic but maintain those areas with Opti-seal as drying aid during ONR wash. For mid size cars (BMW 328 and Jaguar XE), I have typically used 5-6 cc including rims (5 cc for body panels and 1 cc for rim face only). For a Kia Sorrento, I used 7 cc including rims and for a Kia Sedona minivan, I used 8 cc including rims. For a Jeep Wrangler, I would estimate 5.5-6.5 cc (similar to Sorrento but less due to soft top). So unless you are going to coat a second vehicle larger than mid-size, you might want to stick with a 10 cc syringe.
  7. Detail Mutant

    BRS and hyper-seal review

    Ron, I agree that Hyper Seal is a superior product to Opti-Seal when applied to painted surfaces (Coated or uncoated). But on other car surfaces (glass, plastics and vinyl), I find Hyper Seal is prone to streaking. For interior detailing surfaces, I find Opti-Seal a much easier to use product. For interior glass cleaning alone, I intend to keep Opti-Seal in my detailing arsenal.
  8. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    Probably because no other company has been able to duplicate Dr. G's formula. In addition, SiO2 appears to be latest fad so everyone is getting in on it. You won't be disappointed with Gloss Coat. It makes the paint really shine especially on darker coloured paints.
  9. Detail Mutant

    Carpet and Fabric Cleaner and Protectant SDS?

    I am still getting error code 2C171/1 with new link.
  10. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    CarPro CQuartz UK is a SiO2 based coating and will require periodic refresh with Carpro Reload (or other SiO2 based spray sealant) in order to maintain hydrophobic properties for the full rated 18-24 month life. My understanding is SiO2 coatings are subject to microscopic cracking due expansion and contraction of the underlying panels and will require SiO2 spray sealant to fill in those cracks to maintain the hydrophobic properties. Optimum Gloss Coat is a hybrid coating that is both SiC (Silica Carbide) and SiO2. All optimum pro coatings are based solely on SiC which does not require any maintenance product to refresh coating (typically recommend annual decontamination using Ferrex and mild claying). So Gloss Coat contains product (SiC) that does not require refresh over the rated 24 month life. The SiO2 in Gloss Coat provides the instant gloss after application. Other Optimum Pro coatings (SiC) are at max gloss after 7 day cure window. To maintain maximum gloss with Gloss Coat, I would recommend you acquire Hyper Seal from either your local Optimum Pro dealer or directly from Optimum store (only places to purchase) to use as drying aid when doing ONR wash as it contains SiO2 . In order to achieve 2 year life of Gloss Coat, proper prep is required (wash, clay, polish with Hyper Polish, wipe down with Paint Prep and apply Gloss Coat). The other advantage of Gloss Coat is that it is cured enough after 1 hour to apply Opti-Seal as a protectant against environmental contamination for the entire 7 day cure time. I believe Carpro CQuartz recommends 8-24 hrs before exposure to rain/moisture and need to protect from bird droppings and water spots during 7 day cure time.
  11. Detail Mutant

    BRS and hyper-seal review

    I believe Ron has mentioned it contains SiO2 on the forums and Yvan mentioned it during my Optimization training. I believe the SiO2 in Hyper Seal makes it significantly more glossy than Opti-Seal but prone to more streaking especially on non-painted surfaces.
  12. Detail Mutant

    BRS and hyper-seal review

    As a drying aid, I find I use about the same amount of Hyper Seal as I was using Opti-Seal (at most maybe 25% more). I haven't used Hyper-Seal as a WOWA as my cars are coated with Gloss Coat. The problem is the included Hyper Seal sprayer is a pull trigger which I find puts down too much product per panel which can result in streaking and requires alot more buffing. I have transferred Hyper-Seal to a different sprayer with better atomization and smaller quantity per trigger pull. Using a different sprayer, I find the cost between Opti-Seal and Hyper Seal very comparable. However, Hyper Seal being SiO2 based is most appropriate for painted surfaces only. Opti-seal is very useful for interior surfaces (vinyl, leather and glass) especially cleaning interior windows to a streak free finish. In addition Hyper Seal is too aggressive to be applied to a Optimum coating during the initial 7 day cure time, only Opti-Seal can be applied after one hour of coating application.
  13. Detail Mutant

    ONR with more "bite"?

    For seriously contaminated vehicle (potential road tar and bug guts), I will do a pre-wash with Power Clean at 5:1 dilution ratio for something with more bite. The issue is you do not want PC residue to be left on the paint. I also don't like to contaminate my ONR bucket or BRS with PC so I typically wipe down the vehicle with ONR soaked microfiber cloths (a la Garry Dean wash method) then perform a full rinse and follow up with normal ONR wash using BRS. Another issue is that PC at 5:1 will typically strip most LSP (wax or sealant) so you should expect to top up your LSP unless you have something stronger on the vehicle like a ceramic coating.
  14. Wondering if MSDS for new Optimum products will be added to the download section of the forum. New products include: - Optimum Tire Protection and Coating - Optimum T.A.R. Remover - Optimum Gel coat restorer
  15. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    Sometimes I will run my car through Petro Canada Touchless Car Wash especially when it is bitterly cold. Just be aware that touchless car wash uses some very aggressive chemicals so you should ensure your Opti-Coat Pro is fully cured before subjecting to this treatment. Optimum coatings cure based upon humidity level in the air. So with the significantly lower current temperatures, humidity in the air is lower. ONR wash after a week is fine but a touchless car wash (or any alkaline or acidic cleaners) I would wait a minimum of 3 weeks in Ontario winters. If it was applied in summer (high humidity)you would be fine after a week for the harsh chemicals.