Detail Mutant

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Detail Mutant last won the day on July 11

Detail Mutant had the most liked content!

About Detail Mutant

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    Optimum Apprentice

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    Waterloo, Ontario Canada
  • Interests
    Detailing cars to perfection

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  1. Detail Mutant

    Hyper Polish question

    Thanks Ron. Learned a lot during my two day Optimization Course with Yvan. Confirmed with Yvan that additive is in all three compounds (Hyper Polish, Hyper Intensive Polish and Hyper Compound) in case for some reason you want to do a single step correction with more aggressive compound before applying coating. During the course, Yvan seem to imply than Primer Polish (included in Opti-Coat kit) is the same as Hyper Polish. He suggested that any left over Primer Polish from Opti-Coat kits should used to top up Hyper Polish bottles in the shop.
  2. Detail Mutant

    Hyper Polish question

    Congrats on the new Tesla Model 3. In sprayable form, Hyper Polish is the least abrasive polish. I believe Optimum finish might be slightly less aggressive but Hyper Polish is best to use with Optimum coatings as it contains additional product to aid leveling of coating (as do all sprayable Hyper compounds). The least aggressive Optimum pad is the blue waffle pad which is considered a finishing pad. Typically this very soft pad should only be required for the most finicky (soft) paints which are typically Japanese makes (nissan/infiniti). For most paints, the Optimum black waffle pad is most appropriate for final polish. You can go with other flat polishing pads from other companies (Lake Country or Buff and Shine) but Optimum recommends waffle pads for two reasons: 1. Minimize temperature rise on panel - modern clear coat paint will swell when it gets hot which makes the abrasives in the polish/compound less effective so you want to minimize the temperature rise of panel during polishing/compounding. The waffle pattern allows for more air flow to keep the panel cool. Recommended speed setting on dual action polisher when using Hyper products is 3 2. Minimize stalling on body lines - when using dual action polisher, the rotation is free running and can stall when you hit high points. The waffle pattern minimizes the chance of stalling compared to flat pad. The waffle pattern is also more effective at polishing these indentations without having to change to smaller diameter pad. I would also recommend you have some Optimum Paint Prep on hand to do the final wipe down. A standard 15% IPA wipe down is adequate but when compared side by side with Paint Prep, it is no contest. When using Paint Prep, I find gloss coat is absorbed almost fully minimizing potential high spots.
  3. Detail Mutant

    New to the product and lots of questions

    I like the Platinum Pluffle from Rag Company when doing a rinseless wash with drying aid (Opti-Seal). The amount of towels required depends on conditions (colder temperatures usually require 25-33% increase in amount towels in my experience) and total surface area of the vehicle. In the case of the Platinum Pluflle also the size of the towel you go with. It comes in 16 x 16, 16 x 23 and 20 x 40. I don't like using the larger 20 x 40 towels when doing rinseless wash with drying aid. I find larger towel is best for flip and drag method on horizontal panels which is more appropriate when not using drying aid like Opti-Seal. If you try to fold up larger towel to wipe vertical panels it becomes too difficult to control and usual ends up dragging on the ground. My preferred size is is 16 x 23 folded in quarters which makes a nice manageable size for wiping panels. For washing my 3-series E91 wagon, I typically use two 16 x 23 towels and for my wife's Kia Sedona minivan, I use three 16 x 23 towels. When I wash the cars in the garage over winter (right around freezing point in garage), I typically need an additional towel for each vehicle.
  4. Detail Mutant

    New to the product and lots of questions

    I'm cheap too but still like to use something to keep my wash media (BRS) from touching the bottom of the bucket and provide a perforated surface for releasing the dirt against. I use the Chemical Guys Cyclone Dirt Trap which is a substantially lower profile than a standard Grit Guard. Probably only 1/4 to 1/3 gallon of ONR solution below the Cyclone surface. Biggest issue with the Cyclone is the horrible finger holes for trying to remove from the bottom of the bucket. So added some Ty-wraps to the corners as a means for lifting out of the bucket. I however only use the single bucket method. At the start, I used to use two buckets but as I got more comfortable with the rinseless wash method, I abandoned the second pre dirt release bucket
  5. Detail Mutant

    First attempt at using Gloss Coat

    As a minimum I would add claying the painted surfaces (while washing with ONR) to remove any bonded contaminants. Highly likely that your new 3 series has been sitting outside exposed to the elements at both the factory and dealership for a period of time which will be subject to industrial fallout. I would also consider using Ferex (or some other iron remover) prior to ONR wash and clay especially since your car is white. Last thing you want is little orange spots ( iron contaminants corroding ) showing up under your Gloss Coat application. In theory just clay should remove the iron contaminants but Ferex is much more effective.
  6. Detail Mutant

    Opti seal as topper

    If you have an Opti-Coat installer near you (or willing to order direct from Optimum) you might want to consider getting Opti-Coat Hyper Seal as a drying aid. It is SiO2 based so should work better with ceramic coated cars. Based upon my experience though, you should change product to a different sprayer (puts down too much product with full spray) or make sure you only do partial pull of sprayer per panel otherwise it will streak (very concentrated). I find the shine and slickness from Hyper Seal to be far superior over Opti-seal. You may even like the shine enough that you will not feel the need to apply wax afterwards. I find it a great value as well ($5 more than 8 oz Opti-seal but get twice the volume at 16 oz). Only issue is finding place to purchase as it is only sold at Opti-Coat installers or direct from Optimum store.
  7. Main difference is additional gloss enhancers (similar to gloss enhancers in Optimum Instant Detailer) and scent (citrus type of scent vs blueberry type scent for ONR or apple type scent for ONRWW). During Optimization training, Yvan indicated putting OCNR in a bucket of hot water will make the scent carry through out the area.
  8. Detail Mutant


    I was on Optimization training conducted by Yvan and we used this brush on a 15 year old truck steering wheel that was crusty from built-up body oils. Using just ONR and this brush we were able to get the wheel back to the original vinyl. Yvan indicated that the brush is similar to the Rag Company brush but the fiber pad had been altered to Optimum specification (believe he indicated slightly longer fibers). Optimum does this for other products as well. I used to think Optimum waffle foam polishing pads were the same as the Lake Country waffle pads but Yvan indicated that the waffle pattern is deeper than Lake Country pads and built by machine owned by Optimum (at Lake Country).
  9. For a typical decon wash, I apply Power Clean at 5:1 ratio using an iK foamer as a pre wash, rinse then apply Ferrex , rinse then wash with ONR (or clay using ONR). Wondering if anyone has experimented with combining Power Clean and Ferrex in a foamer and applying as a single step. I am thinking of combining Power Clean at 5:1 with full strength Ferrex at 1:1 (or 1 part Power Clean, 5 parts distilled water and 6 parts Ferrex). Are there any potential interactions between the products? Is it safe to store this combination or should it only be mixed just prior to use?
  10. Detail Mutant

    Opti-Lens Headlight Restoration Longevity

    @Setec Astronomy Thanks for your sharing your experience. This is very disappointing as a year or less is really no longer than potentially applying a standard paint sealant ( or a lens sealant in the cheap headlight restoration kits). From what I have researched here and other boards, Opti-lens is specifically formulated to bond to plastic such that it performs better when the factory clear coat has been fully removed. It there is still factory clear coat on lens (not started to yellow), it is best just to use standard paint coatings (Gloss-coat or Opti-coat pro). I think one the main contributors to lens failure is road rash (mileage with lots of exposure to small rocks). One of the clients I applied Opti-lens to commutes 150 km round trip daily on on the 401 Hwy in Ontario. So we'll see in a year if he experiences the same premature failure that you have experienced. I know for my personal vehicle (2011 BMW 328xi wagon) I have installed XPEL PPF on the headlight lens to protect from road debris that can lead to clear coat failure on the lens. I wonder if I should be combining Opti-lens with application PPF after 1 week cure time.
  11. Detail Mutant

    Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    I live in South Western Ontario which is comparable in climate to North Eastern US (hot humid summers and cold snowy winters) and I typically only have issues with ONR drying quickly when washing in full sun and typically on darker coloured vehicles. To minimize the issue of drying too fast, I typically wear a detailer's belt which has my drying aid (opti-seal) and drying towel pre-folded and ready for immediate drying of a car panel within seconds of applying ONR with BRS. The largest area I may apply ONR at one time before drying is the entire hood (4 x 6 ft area) but if you are having significant issues I would reduce the largest application area to half or less. Now if you are still having drying/spotting issues from ONR solution drying in the Sun, I would not necessarily fully wet the surface with standard ONR wash media (either microfiber dripping with ONR or BRS soaked with ONR). The spotting you are seeing is "polymer" spots which is not the same as hard water (mineral) spots. The easiest way to remove these polymer spots is to use an ONR dampened towel (not dripping wet). I typically find the drying microfiber towel I used for one third to half the vehicle is a good damp consistency for re-wipping these areas that may be drying too fast and quickly follow up with new drying towel. The main advantage of the BRS over using microfiber towels is that it can hold a lot more ONR such that as you are wiping over heavily soiled areas, you can squeeze the sponge to release more solution to flush the area and potentially remove the need to pre-spray. In my early days of using ONR, this was my method. These days, I typically pre-spray but only the dirtiest area (typically sides panels around wheels and rear of vehicle) just so the ONR can start breaking up the heaviest dirt before passing over area with BRS. My wash time for a vehicle that I don't need a ladder/step stool for accessing the roof is typically 30 mins with 10 mins for setup/pack up. For larger vehicles with tall roofs extend wash time by 10-15 mins. Hope this helps.
  12. I just did a headlight restoration on a 2009 Toyota Camry with the following process: 1. Initial clean of headlight using 1-256 ONR solution 2. Wet sand using 1000 grit (had to do two rounds as 1000 because of significant yellowing shown in initial first picture) followed by 2000 grit then followed by 3000 grit (result after wet sanding shown in second picture). Used ONR at 1:256 ratio instead of plain water to aid in wipe down down of "slurry". 3. Compound with Hyper Compound followed by Polish with Hyper Polish (result shown in third picture) 4. Wipe down surface with Paint Prep to remove any residue. 5. Apply opti-lens and allow minimum 1 hour before exposing to exterior (rain) elements. So I have two questions associated with the Opti-Lens product: 1. In order to protect Opti-Lens coating over the full 7 day curing period, can I apply opti-seal over top after 1 hour like is recommended for other coatings (Gloss-Coat)? Or is the formulation of Opti-Lens different that this may have adverse effects on longevity of the coating? 2. I know Dr. G has stated that Opti-Lens is a permanent coating but in life nothing lasts for forever. In order to justify the higher cost to future clients, I would like to offer some form of warranty. I also know that the longevity will be based on how good a prep I did (ensure to remove the old failing coating on plastic lens) as well as the environment it is exposed to. Assuming I did appropriate prep, what range of time can I expect the Opti-Lens to protect the plastic from yellowing? 2 years for really harsh environments ( desert with 12 months/year of intense sun)? 5 years for more favorable environments (SW Ontario with less than 6 months/year of intense sun)?
  13. Detail Mutant

    Gloss coat on wheels barrels?

    For me, it would depend on the wheel design. For a 5-7 spoke design where there is decent spacing that barrels are potentially visible and accessible for cleaning then yes. But in the case of 10 spoke design (such as the chrome rims on the KIA Sorrento I just did) I wouldn't bother.
  14. Detail Mutant

    Optimum Gloss-Coat

    I had the Kia Sorrento back 8 days after Gloss-Coat application for a maintenance wash (ONR with Opti-Seal as drying aid) and to check for any high spots (as well as get some pictures). I found one minor high spot on the roof near the shark fin antenna which my former work colleague doesn't care about since it isn't visible. Rest of the vehicle looks pristine. The chrome rims seemed extra slick when using Opti-Seal as drying aid. Be interesting to see how easy the rims are to clean after more significant brake dust accumulation. Next up will be my wife's Kia Sedona in the same colour (Platinum Graphite).
  15. 6+ weeks is impressive especially if it is at the standard 3:1 dilution ratio. I may have to do my first YouTube video test with standard cleaner (APC) on one section, 3:1 Fabric Carpet Cleaner Protect dilution ratio on another section and undiluted Fabric Carpet Cleaner Protect on another section to show the different levels of water beading (none to hopefully very good). This is assuming the client is willing to let me use the car for the test.