Detail Mutant

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Everything posted by Detail Mutant

  1. I just did a headlight restoration on a 2009 Toyota Camry with the following process: 1. Initial clean of headlight using 1-256 ONR solution 2. Wet sand using 1000 grit (had to do two rounds as 1000 because of significant yellowing shown in initial first picture) followed by 2000 grit then followed by 3000 grit (result after wet sanding shown in second picture). Used ONR at 1:256 ratio instead of plain water to aid in wipe down down of "slurry". 3. Compound with Hyper Compound followed by Polish with Hyper Polish (result shown in third picture) 4. Wipe down surface with Paint Prep to remove any residue. 5. Apply opti-lens and allow minimum 1 hour before exposing to exterior (rain) elements. So I have two questions associated with the Opti-Lens product: 1. In order to protect Opti-Lens coating over the full 7 day curing period, can I apply opti-seal over top after 1 hour like is recommended for other coatings (Gloss-Coat)? Or is the formulation of Opti-Lens different that this may have adverse effects on longevity of the coating? 2. I know Dr. G has stated that Opti-Lens is a permanent coating but in life nothing lasts for forever. In order to justify the higher cost to future clients, I would like to offer some form of warranty. I also know that the longevity will be based on how good a prep I did (ensure to remove the old failing coating on plastic lens) as well as the environment it is exposed to. Assuming I did appropriate prep, what range of time can I expect the Opti-Lens to protect the plastic from yellowing? 2 years for really harsh environments ( desert with 12 months/year of intense sun)? 5 years for more favorable environments (SW Ontario with less than 6 months/year of intense sun)?
  2. Opti-Lens Headlight Restoration Longevity

    @Setec Astronomy Thanks for your sharing your experience. This is very disappointing as a year or less is really no longer than potentially applying a standard paint sealant ( or a lens sealant in the cheap headlight restoration kits). From what I have researched here and other boards, Opti-lens is specifically formulated to bond to plastic such that it performs better when the factory clear coat has been fully removed. It there is still factory clear coat on lens (not started to yellow), it is best just to use standard paint coatings (Gloss-coat or Opti-coat pro). I think one the main contributors to lens failure is road rash (mileage with lots of exposure to small rocks). One of the clients I applied Opti-lens to commutes 150 km round trip daily on on the 401 Hwy in Ontario. So we'll see in a year if he experiences the same premature failure that you have experienced. I know for my personal vehicle (2011 BMW 328xi wagon) I have installed XPEL PPF on the headlight lens to protect from road debris that can lead to clear coat failure on the lens. I wonder if I should be combining Opti-lens with application PPF after 1 week cure time.
  3. Detailing Efficiency Experiments

    I live in South Western Ontario which is comparable in climate to North Eastern US (hot humid summers and cold snowy winters) and I typically only have issues with ONR drying quickly when washing in full sun and typically on darker coloured vehicles. To minimize the issue of drying too fast, I typically wear a detailer's belt which has my drying aid (opti-seal) and drying towel pre-folded and ready for immediate drying of a car panel within seconds of applying ONR with BRS. The largest area I may apply ONR at one time before drying is the entire hood (4 x 6 ft area) but if you are having significant issues I would reduce the largest application area to half or less. Now if you are still having drying/spotting issues from ONR solution drying in the Sun, I would not necessarily fully wet the surface with standard ONR wash media (either microfiber dripping with ONR or BRS soaked with ONR). The spotting you are seeing is "polymer" spots which is not the same as hard water (mineral) spots. The easiest way to remove these polymer spots is to use an ONR dampened towel (not dripping wet). I typically find the drying microfiber towel I used for one third to half the vehicle is a good damp consistency for re-wipping these areas that may be drying too fast and quickly follow up with new drying towel. The main advantage of the BRS over using microfiber towels is that it can hold a lot more ONR such that as you are wiping over heavily soiled areas, you can squeeze the sponge to release more solution to flush the area and potentially remove the need to pre-spray. In my early days of using ONR, this was my method. These days, I typically pre-spray but only the dirtiest area (typically sides panels around wheels and rear of vehicle) just so the ONR can start breaking up the heaviest dirt before passing over area with BRS. My wash time for a vehicle that I don't need a ladder/step stool for accessing the roof is typically 30 mins with 10 mins for setup/pack up. For larger vehicles with tall roofs extend wash time by 10-15 mins. Hope this helps.
  4. Gloss coat on wheels barrels?

    For me, it would depend on the wheel design. For a 5-7 spoke design where there is decent spacing that barrels are potentially visible and accessible for cleaning then yes. But in the case of 10 spoke design (such as the chrome rims on the KIA Sorrento I just did) I wouldn't bother.
  5. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    I had the Kia Sorrento back 8 days after Gloss-Coat application for a maintenance wash (ONR with Opti-Seal as drying aid) and to check for any high spots (as well as get some pictures). I found one minor high spot on the roof near the shark fin antenna which my former work colleague doesn't care about since it isn't visible. Rest of the vehicle looks pristine. The chrome rims seemed extra slick when using Opti-Seal as drying aid. Be interesting to see how easy the rims are to clean after more significant brake dust accumulation. Next up will be my wife's Kia Sedona in the same colour (Platinum Graphite).
  6. 6+ weeks is impressive especially if it is at the standard 3:1 dilution ratio. I may have to do my first YouTube video test with standard cleaner (APC) on one section, 3:1 Fabric Carpet Cleaner Protect dilution ratio on another section and undiluted Fabric Carpet Cleaner Protect on another section to show the different levels of water beading (none to hopefully very good). This is assuming the client is willing to let me use the car for the test.
  7. I have a client with a 2006 Black BMW E85 Z4 convertible with fabric top. They are are looking for suggestions on products to maintain vehicle. For the paint work I am suggesting ONR, Big Red Sponge and OCW as drying aid (as the wax seems to look better on darker colors than opti-seal) and using Pluffle microfiber from the Rag Company for drying. For the fabric convertible top, I am unsure what Optimum products would be most appropriate. Most dedicated fabric convertible top cleaners are mild APC that are easily rinsed away. What would be the recommended Optimum product? Power Clean seems a bit to aggressive to me and based on my experience (at least 3:1 dilution ratio)requires significant volume of water to fully rinse off. Would ONR work and what would be the best application and drying method? What about about ONRWW on the fabric top, any concerns with the wax content? What about Optimum Fabric and Carpet Clean and Protect? Would this have any impact to application and/or longevity to fabric protection (Scotchgard, 303 or other)? Any suggestions would be helpful as I would like to keep the products within the Optimum "synergy" to maintain maximum efficiency for the client so they are more likely to keep up on exterior maintenance. Note the vehicle is garaged over the winter so there is no need to worry about winter maintenance.
  8. ONRWW and fabric soft top.

    Thanks Ron. Just one quick follow up, what type of towel (and technique) do you use for drying the fabric top? I assume a tight weave waffle type microfiber using blotting technique is best to avoid leaving pieces lint all over the fabric top
  9. Thanks Ron. So I am definitely interested in suggestion/using Fabric Clean & Protect on the fabric top. I am just wondering whether it's water repel characteristics and UV protection are a suitable replacement to a Scotchgard-like application every 6 months. I know it will depend on the environment exposed to (temperature, UV exposure, rain, etc.) but how often in your experience would you apply Fabric Clean & Protect to maintain some hydrophobic properties (monthly, less or more frequently)? For the application process would you spray on to the fabric top (at standard 3:1 dilution), agitate with soft bristle brush and then blot with a microfiber towel (preferably one with minimal loose fibers to avoid lint on fabric top)? I had suggested to the client to seasonally apply Scotchgard but the one issue with this type of protectant is you want to make sure not to leave any overspray on rubber seals and plastic as it cause significant damage. To be safe, I would normally tape all the rubber seals close to the border of the fabric top. Looking at my bottle of Optimum Fabric Clean & Protect, I see no warnings about leaving on rubber and plastics so I assume it will not damage those materials. If this is a suitable replacement, it would be a significant time savings as you just apply at regular cleaning interval (nominal 15 minutes monthly) and not have to go through significant seasonal prep (wash thoroughly, wait to dry, tape up rubber/plastic trim, apply several light coats of Scotchgard, needs to dry before being exposed to rain which is 1-1.5 hours of hands on work with significant delay time for drying). And the cost savings looks good too. A single can of Scotchgard is about 1/3 the price of a 32 oz bottle of Fabric Clean & Protect. A single can of Scotchgard is maybe good for one year (two full applications) whereas Fabric Clean & Protect would produce 128 oz at the standard dilution of 3:1. Assuming nominal 2 oz per application on the fabric top, you would have enough solution for 64 applications (or 5.3 years assuming monthly application). You come out ahead after year 3 plus even with Scotchgard, you need to acquire another product for periodically cleaning the fabric top.
  10. ONRWW and fabric soft top.

    Juan, Did you test ONRWW on the fabric top? Was there any noticeable negative effects? I am trying to put together a maintenance package of products for washing a 2006 BMW Z4 with fabric top . I am wondering if ONRWW is OK with the fabric top or if I should be specifying sticking with regular ONR and then using Optimum Spray Wax as drying aid on painted/solid surfaces only.
  11. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    If you've done 20 hours of paint correction on a single car, you are way ahead of me . I'm building up to doing my wife's two year old van (expect 6-8 hours of paint correction with half the panels requiring two stages) and eventually my 2011 BMW E91 wagon (probably need closer to 10 hours with minimum two stages on all panels). The other confidence builder is having good lighting so you can see the oil slick on water on initial application gradually disappear to a few small high points. Online videos just can't show this effect like seeing it in person. When I did my former work colleagues vehicle ( a 2018 Kia Sorrento ) I managed to complete the entire vehicle (including rims) in 5.5 hours which included 30-40 minutes for polishing the front windshield with a glass polish and applying Aquapel to the front windshield. I did steps 2 thru 4 panel by panel in order to avoid moving around the vehicle continuously(and avoid the need to keep moving step platform for doing high roof of SUV). I then took a break for lunch and then did steps 5 thru 7 panel by panel (about 1 to 1.5 hours) in order to avoid any dust settling on the surface between paint prep wipe and Gloss Coat application. Started with hood so that when I was done entire vehicle , I applied second coat to hood to ensure I had good coverage as this is the area likely to take the most abuse. Best of luck but I'm sure you won't need any.
  12. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Hi the THiiiNG, The Gloss Coat grabs a bit more than Opti-Seal but that may have more to do with the supplied foam applicators (yellow applicator without strap for Opti-Seal vs blue applicator with strap for Gloss-Coat). I don't know for sure (but I'm sure one of the Optimum experts will chime in), on visual inspection the blue applicator looks more open foam and is possibly more absorbent which would tend to grab more. That is why I believe Yvan recommends priming the blue applicator on first panel with more drops than on following panels. I did the recommended 1/4 V pattern on the front edge (area primarily under index/middle/ring fingers) of the applicator which takes 15 -20 drops and subsequent panels only apply 5-7 drops to replenish applicator. Using the area under your fingers allows better pressure control. You don't need a lot a pressure, you are trying to spread the product not press it into the paint. The part which grabbed the most was applying the Paint Prep. The initial wet wipe of Paint Prep grabbed pretty hard and as a result didn't fully dry on first pass. I moved microfiber to a dry side for second pass to fully dry. Are you doing a new car (less than a 1000 km driven) or is it something older? If it's older I would add an iron decontamination (such as Ferex) to paint after the Power Clean pre-wash. I technical did a iron decontamination to the Chrome rims only even though the car had less than 1000 km as this is where brake dust accumulates first. If it's a car that's seen a decent amount of time on the roads, iron filings will be embedded all over the lower body panels. Also depending on the condition of the paint of an older vehicle, you may want to add Hyper Compound step prior to Hyper Polish. But as Yvan has indicated in multiple videos you don't need to wipe off the Hyper Compound residue before using Hyper Polish (saving time and being more efficient Optimum Synergy).
  13. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    Thanks Yvan. That's what I was thinking (ideally wait seven days) but in case of "stuff" happening, the lighter cleaners can be used with minimal impact. I was initially intimidated to apply ceramic coating where if I messed up, I would need to compound/polish to remove and start over. But I found the Gloss-Coat very easy to apply (easier than my first application Klasse acrylic sealant) especially when using Optimum Paint Prep. I found there were minimal high spots (over 90% seemed to be absorbed into the paint) and only a light wipe ( virtually no pressure other than weight of towel) with a plush microfiber would level out the high spots. I am definitely more confident on using Gloss-Coat in the future. The key being being proper prep with Optimum products: 1. Prewash with Power clean (used 3:1 dilution ratio) 2. Wash with ONR followed with clay towel decontamination on still wet panel 3. Dry surface with microfiber (mostly horizontal panels to remove significant moisture as Hyper Polish pad prep is dampened with ONR) 4. Use Hyper Polish to perfect paint and wipe down with ONR dampened towel after (used drying towel from step 3 as it was damp with ONR) 5. Wipe down panel with Paint Prep just before Gloss Coat application 6. Apply Gloss Coat with foam applicator (initially spread in circular motion per Yvan's instructions but I found I liked to go back over in straight lines) 7. Give Gloss-Coat time to set (wait for oil slick on water to mostly disappear) then lightly wipe with plush microfiber to level potential high spots. Thanks again Yvan and the rest of the Optimum team. I have learned a lot from the YouTube videos as well as Optimum Synergy Podcasts.
  14. Optimum Gloss-Coat

    I also just did my first Gloss-Coat application for a former work colleague on a brand new vehicle. I made sure to emphasize to him no car washes for next 7 days and also avoid sprinklers (tap water) to avoid any hard water spots in the next 7 days. So I am curious by Yvan's suggestion that ONR is OK within the 7 day window. I knew that opti-seal could be applied after 1 hour, so what other optimum products for paint can be applied after 1 hour and before the 7 day window? 1. Power Clean (assume need to wait 7 days or does it depend on dilution ratio) 2. Ferex (again assume need to wait 7 days) 3,. Mineral Deposit Remover ( most likely 7 days but would like confirmation if sooner is possible in case of water spots) 4. ONR (and ONR Wash and Wax if there is a difference) 5. Optimum Car Wax 6. Opti-Clean 7. Optimum Instant Detailer and Gloss Enhancer Just curious about the "Synergy" of optimum products as it applies to Gloss-Coat application