Detail Mutant

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Everything posted by Detail Mutant

  1. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    I think the 1:16 dilution ratio for ONR is too high. I believe the highest recommended dilution ratio is 1:32 as a quick detailer/waterless wash solution (or 1 oz to approx. 1 L). Anything higher can be subject to streaking and is just wasteful. I used to use 1:32 dilution ratio for pre-soak but found it not much more effective than standard 1:256 dilution ratio especially when using pressure washer with warm water (Worx Hydroshot). For specific dirty areas with lots of bonded contaminants, I will typically pre-soak with Power Clean at 1:5 dilution ratio which has more bite than any ONR dilution ratio. Your step 3 is maybe unnecessary especially since the pre-soak (step 1) and pressure washer rinse (step 2) will have removed 90-95% of contaminants from the vehicle surface making washing with BRS and ONR very safe. Before I acquired my Worx Hydroshot, I was washing my car in winter with only pre-soak and then attacking panels with BRS. I could here "crunching" as the BRS passed over the panel but no noticeable scratches.
  2. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    jasbir204, For those areas treated with Opti-Coat Pro you are chemically protected that there should be no concern. The issue is potential mechanical abrasion from foreign objects (ie people) rubbing against the panels with all those contaminants (especially sand) which could lightly scratch the paint (even with Opti-Coat). I would consider doing the pre-wash steps (1-4)from my winter wash procedure to knock off the heavy contaminants if you don't have time for full wash or consider running through touchless car wash .
  3. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    Exception being not recommended to coat front windshield (or any other glass subject to wiper blade abrasion). In those areas, it is recommended to use Opti-Glass coating with periodic maintenance top-up of Optimum Glass Clean and Protect. I personally did not coat any of my glass with Gloss Coat. I just use Optimum Glass Clean and Protect after every wash and my front windshield was coated with Opti-Pro Glass coating during Optimization training (my car was used as demo for application). Because I'm cheap (like Yvan), I would not waste Gloss Coat to apply second coat to potentially amp gloss. Best and most effective way to amp gloss is to use Hyper Seal after the 7 day fully cured window as well as continuous maintenance drying aid. I would prefer to save a few cc of Gloss Coat as insurance to reapply to select panels that may get scratched and need compounding/polishing followed by re-application of Gloss Coat.
  4. Detail Mutant

    Best Paint Correction Product

    Most German makes are considered "hard" paint (exception being Porsche and select Audi models) so will typically require more aggression to achieve required paint correction. So Ron's suggestion of Optimum Orange (medium cut) foam pad for polishing is probably most appropriate to start. For "medium" to "soft" paint, you would typically use Optimum Black (light cut) foam pad for polishing and in some extremely "soft" paint cases you might want to use Optimum Blue (very light cut) foam pad. Depending on level of defect in paint, you may need to add Compound step prior to polishing (Hyper Compound with Hyper Wool pad on DA for maximum correction). If deeper scratches are limited to select areas, I would probably hand wet sand (using ONR solution as lubricant) those areas instead of Compound step. I typically use 3000 grit 3M Trizac which incorporates foam backing to make it safer to use (minimize high pressure points). Wet sanding with 3000 grit can actually be more effective at removing scratches while removing less clear coat than compound step. I've done this several times on my BMW which has relatively "hard" paint. For recent model GM paint (specifically GM trucks I believe), Optimum created the White foam pad which is supposed to be light cut yet stiff foam composition. Certain GM vehicles are prone to light micro marring when using a long throw (21 mm) DA with lighter more flexible foam. This is due to side to side action of DA combined with foam not holding shape during this action. My understanding is if you use smaller throw (8 mm - 15 mm) DA machine, you are less likely to encounter this problem using the standard Optimum foam pads. The key to paint correction is having several tools available (different pads and compounds) and doing a test spot to determine what process works best to achieve your desired results. Because every car and car owner expectation is different.
  5. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    I wouldn't bother with 2 coats as SiC does not lend itself to a layering (Opti Pro coatings cannot be layered). The only reason for a second coat is if you were not diligent on the first coat and missed some areas and might get those areas on second coat. I would recommend you take your time and apply more thoroughly in a single coat. Gloss coat is capable of being applied to the textured plastic fenders and bumpers but will probably not offer the same level of longevity as when applied to clear coat paint. I would apply the initial Gloss coat to the plastic but maintain those areas with Opti-seal as drying aid during ONR wash. For mid size cars (BMW 328 and Jaguar XE), I have typically used 5-6 cc including rims (5 cc for body panels and 1 cc for rim face only). For a Kia Sorrento, I used 7 cc including rims and for a Kia Sedona minivan, I used 8 cc including rims. For a Jeep Wrangler, I would estimate 5.5-6.5 cc (similar to Sorrento but less due to soft top). So unless you are going to coat a second vehicle larger than mid-size, you might want to stick with a 10 cc syringe.
  6. Detail Mutant

    BRS and hyper-seal review

    Ron, I agree that Hyper Seal is a superior product to Opti-Seal when applied to painted surfaces (Coated or uncoated). But on other car surfaces (glass, plastics and vinyl), I find Hyper Seal is prone to streaking. For interior detailing surfaces, I find Opti-Seal a much easier to use product. For interior glass cleaning alone, I intend to keep Opti-Seal in my detailing arsenal.
  7. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    Probably because no other company has been able to duplicate Dr. G's formula. In addition, SiO2 appears to be latest fad so everyone is getting in on it. You won't be disappointed with Gloss Coat. It makes the paint really shine especially on darker coloured paints.
  8. Detail Mutant

    Carpet and Fabric Cleaner and Protectant SDS?

    I am still getting error code 2C171/1 with new link.
  9. Detail Mutant

    Why Gloss Coat?

    CarPro CQuartz UK is a SiO2 based coating and will require periodic refresh with Carpro Reload (or other SiO2 based spray sealant) in order to maintain hydrophobic properties for the full rated 18-24 month life. My understanding is SiO2 coatings are subject to microscopic cracking due expansion and contraction of the underlying panels and will require SiO2 spray sealant to fill in those cracks to maintain the hydrophobic properties. Optimum Gloss Coat is a hybrid coating that is both SiC (Silica Carbide) and SiO2. All optimum pro coatings are based solely on SiC which does not require any maintenance product to refresh coating (typically recommend annual decontamination using Ferrex and mild claying). So Gloss Coat contains product (SiC) that does not require refresh over the rated 24 month life. The SiO2 in Gloss Coat provides the instant gloss after application. Other Optimum Pro coatings (SiC) are at max gloss after 7 day cure window. To maintain maximum gloss with Gloss Coat, I would recommend you acquire Hyper Seal from either your local Optimum Pro dealer or directly from Optimum store (only places to purchase) to use as drying aid when doing ONR wash as it contains SiO2 . In order to achieve 2 year life of Gloss Coat, proper prep is required (wash, clay, polish with Hyper Polish, wipe down with Paint Prep and apply Gloss Coat). The other advantage of Gloss Coat is that it is cured enough after 1 hour to apply Opti-Seal as a protectant against environmental contamination for the entire 7 day cure time. I believe Carpro CQuartz recommends 8-24 hrs before exposure to rain/moisture and need to protect from bird droppings and water spots during 7 day cure time.
  10. Detail Mutant

    BRS and hyper-seal review

    I believe Ron has mentioned it contains SiO2 on the forums and Yvan mentioned it during my Optimization training. I believe the SiO2 in Hyper Seal makes it significantly more glossy than Opti-Seal but prone to more streaking especially on non-painted surfaces.
  11. Detail Mutant

    BRS and hyper-seal review

    As a drying aid, I find I use about the same amount of Hyper Seal as I was using Opti-Seal (at most maybe 25% more). I haven't used Hyper-Seal as a WOWA as my cars are coated with Gloss Coat. The problem is the included Hyper Seal sprayer is a pull trigger which I find puts down too much product per panel which can result in streaking and requires alot more buffing. I have transferred Hyper-Seal to a different sprayer with better atomization and smaller quantity per trigger pull. Using a different sprayer, I find the cost between Opti-Seal and Hyper Seal very comparable. However, Hyper Seal being SiO2 based is most appropriate for painted surfaces only. Opti-seal is very useful for interior surfaces (vinyl, leather and glass) especially cleaning interior windows to a streak free finish. In addition Hyper Seal is too aggressive to be applied to a Optimum coating during the initial 7 day cure time, only Opti-Seal can be applied after one hour of coating application.
  12. Detail Mutant

    ONR with more "bite"?

    For seriously contaminated vehicle (potential road tar and bug guts), I will do a pre-wash with Power Clean at 5:1 dilution ratio for something with more bite. The issue is you do not want PC residue to be left on the paint. I also don't like to contaminate my ONR bucket or BRS with PC so I typically wipe down the vehicle with ONR soaked microfiber cloths (a la Garry Dean wash method) then perform a full rinse and follow up with normal ONR wash using BRS. Another issue is that PC at 5:1 will typically strip most LSP (wax or sealant) so you should expect to top up your LSP unless you have something stronger on the vehicle like a ceramic coating.
  13. Wondering if MSDS for new Optimum products will be added to the download section of the forum. New products include: - Optimum Tire Protection and Coating - Optimum T.A.R. Remover - Optimum Gel coat restorer
  14. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    Sometimes I will run my car through Petro Canada Touchless Car Wash especially when it is bitterly cold. Just be aware that touchless car wash uses some very aggressive chemicals so you should ensure your Opti-Coat Pro is fully cured before subjecting to this treatment. Optimum coatings cure based upon humidity level in the air. So with the significantly lower current temperatures, humidity in the air is lower. ONR wash after a week is fine but a touchless car wash (or any alkaline or acidic cleaners) I would wait a minimum of 3 weeks in Ontario winters. If it was applied in summer (high humidity)you would be fine after a week for the harsh chemicals.
  15. Detail Mutant

    Opti Coat Pro Maintenance

    jasbir204, For a winter wash you may want to consider getting the Worx Hydroshot. The advantage of this type of pressure washer is it is capable of drawing water from a bucket. This will allow you to fill up a bucket with warm water (20-25 deg C) from your sink for your pre-wash step. The pressure and flow of the Hydroshot is fairly low but adequate when using 15 deg pattern to remove build up on the sides, front and rear of vehicle. Another tool to consider is a small pump pressure sprayer for applying ONR pre-soak solution. Any of the garden type you can buy in the hardware store will work (typically $5-$12) but the iK 1.5 Multi Sprayer is a far superior tool if you don't mind spending more money (typically $40-$45). This is my winter wash procedure: 1. Prepare ONR solution at 256:1 ratio (standard) in bucket using warm water. 2. Fill second bucket with warm water. 3. Fill multi-sprayer with warm ONR solution from bucket. If you feel you need higher dilution ratio, add some more drops of ONR to sprayer. I used to use higher dilution ratio but typically stick with standard for pre-soak these days. Apply pre-soak to all panels with visible dirt build-up (typically front, lower sides and rear). I don't usually bother with pre-soak on windows and roof unless there is visible dirt. 4. Using Hydroshot hooked up to warm water bucket, rinse off pre-soak/dirt from vehicle. 5. Wash vehicle panel by panel starting from top using warm ONR solution and BRS 6. Apply Hyper Seal as drying aid and dry vehicle panel by panel. 7. After all paint clean, using cheap microfiber towels in remaining ONR to wipe down tires and wheels. Use Hyper-Seal on rims as drying aid. I would consider moving the Hyper-Seal to a different sprayer. I find the supplied sprayer lays down too much product. Or consider just doing a partial pull (third to half pull) of the trigger per panel.
  16. Detail Mutant


    What is the required compressor specification for the Optimum Air Foamer? Optimum site just indicates set pressure between 60-90 PSI. No indication of required minimum CFM for these pressures. If the CFM requirements are too high (ie large compressor) then I would rather just stick with IK foamer. I just haven't tried Power Clean straight in the IK foamer yet. Highest dilution ratio used so far is 3:1. Is it critical to use Power Clean straight or would any dilution ratio work until no more brown is seen (just more likely to be single application with undiluted Power Clean)?
  17. Detail Mutant

    Hyper Polish question

    Thanks Ron. Learned a lot during my two day Optimization Course with Yvan. Confirmed with Yvan that additive is in all three compounds (Hyper Polish, Hyper Intensive Polish and Hyper Compound) in case for some reason you want to do a single step correction with more aggressive compound before applying coating. During the course, Yvan seem to imply than Primer Polish (included in Opti-Coat kit) is the same as Hyper Polish. He suggested that any left over Primer Polish from Opti-Coat kits should used to top up Hyper Polish bottles in the shop.
  18. Detail Mutant

    Hyper Polish question

    Congrats on the new Tesla Model 3. In sprayable form, Hyper Polish is the least abrasive polish. I believe Optimum finish might be slightly less aggressive but Hyper Polish is best to use with Optimum coatings as it contains additional product to aid leveling of coating (as do all sprayable Hyper compounds). The least aggressive Optimum pad is the blue waffle pad which is considered a finishing pad. Typically this very soft pad should only be required for the most finicky (soft) paints which are typically Japanese makes (nissan/infiniti). For most paints, the Optimum black waffle pad is most appropriate for final polish. You can go with other flat polishing pads from other companies (Lake Country or Buff and Shine) but Optimum recommends waffle pads for two reasons: 1. Minimize temperature rise on panel - modern clear coat paint will swell when it gets hot which makes the abrasives in the polish/compound less effective so you want to minimize the temperature rise of panel during polishing/compounding. The waffle pattern allows for more air flow to keep the panel cool. Recommended speed setting on dual action polisher when using Hyper products is 3 2. Minimize stalling on body lines - when using dual action polisher, the rotation is free running and can stall when you hit high points. The waffle pattern minimizes the chance of stalling compared to flat pad. The waffle pattern is also more effective at polishing these indentations without having to change to smaller diameter pad. I would also recommend you have some Optimum Paint Prep on hand to do the final wipe down. A standard 15% IPA wipe down is adequate but when compared side by side with Paint Prep, it is no contest. When using Paint Prep, I find gloss coat is absorbed almost fully minimizing potential high spots.
  19. Detail Mutant

    New to the product and lots of questions

    I like the Platinum Pluffle from Rag Company when doing a rinseless wash with drying aid (Opti-Seal). The amount of towels required depends on conditions (colder temperatures usually require 25-33% increase in amount towels in my experience) and total surface area of the vehicle. In the case of the Platinum Pluflle also the size of the towel you go with. It comes in 16 x 16, 16 x 23 and 20 x 40. I don't like using the larger 20 x 40 towels when doing rinseless wash with drying aid. I find larger towel is best for flip and drag method on horizontal panels which is more appropriate when not using drying aid like Opti-Seal. If you try to fold up larger towel to wipe vertical panels it becomes too difficult to control and usual ends up dragging on the ground. My preferred size is is 16 x 23 folded in quarters which makes a nice manageable size for wiping panels. For washing my 3-series E91 wagon, I typically use two 16 x 23 towels and for my wife's Kia Sedona minivan, I use three 16 x 23 towels. When I wash the cars in the garage over winter (right around freezing point in garage), I typically need an additional towel for each vehicle.
  20. Detail Mutant

    New to the product and lots of questions

    I'm cheap too but still like to use something to keep my wash media (BRS) from touching the bottom of the bucket and provide a perforated surface for releasing the dirt against. I use the Chemical Guys Cyclone Dirt Trap which is a substantially lower profile than a standard Grit Guard. Probably only 1/4 to 1/3 gallon of ONR solution below the Cyclone surface. Biggest issue with the Cyclone is the horrible finger holes for trying to remove from the bottom of the bucket. So added some Ty-wraps to the corners as a means for lifting out of the bucket. I however only use the single bucket method. At the start, I used to use two buckets but as I got more comfortable with the rinseless wash method, I abandoned the second pre dirt release bucket
  21. Detail Mutant

    First attempt at using Gloss Coat

    As a minimum I would add claying the painted surfaces (while washing with ONR) to remove any bonded contaminants. Highly likely that your new 3 series has been sitting outside exposed to the elements at both the factory and dealership for a period of time which will be subject to industrial fallout. I would also consider using Ferex (or some other iron remover) prior to ONR wash and clay especially since your car is white. Last thing you want is little orange spots ( iron contaminants corroding ) showing up under your Gloss Coat application. In theory just clay should remove the iron contaminants but Ferex is much more effective.
  22. Detail Mutant

    Opti seal as topper

    If you have an Opti-Coat installer near you (or willing to order direct from Optimum) you might want to consider getting Opti-Coat Hyper Seal as a drying aid. It is SiO2 based so should work better with ceramic coated cars. Based upon my experience though, you should change product to a different sprayer (puts down too much product with full spray) or make sure you only do partial pull of sprayer per panel otherwise it will streak (very concentrated). I find the shine and slickness from Hyper Seal to be far superior over Opti-seal. You may even like the shine enough that you will not feel the need to apply wax afterwards. I find it a great value as well ($5 more than 8 oz Opti-seal but get twice the volume at 16 oz). Only issue is finding place to purchase as it is only sold at Opti-Coat installers or direct from Optimum store.
  23. Main difference is additional gloss enhancers (similar to gloss enhancers in Optimum Instant Detailer) and scent (citrus type of scent vs blueberry type scent for ONR or apple type scent for ONRWW). During Optimization training, Yvan indicated putting OCNR in a bucket of hot water will make the scent carry through out the area.
  24. Detail Mutant


    I was on Optimization training conducted by Yvan and we used this brush on a 15 year old truck steering wheel that was crusty from built-up body oils. Using just ONR and this brush we were able to get the wheel back to the original vinyl. Yvan indicated that the brush is similar to the Rag Company brush but the fiber pad had been altered to Optimum specification (believe he indicated slightly longer fibers). Optimum does this for other products as well. I used to think Optimum waffle foam polishing pads were the same as the Lake Country waffle pads but Yvan indicated that the waffle pattern is deeper than Lake Country pads and built by machine owned by Optimum (at Lake Country).
  25. For a typical decon wash, I apply Power Clean at 5:1 ratio using an iK foamer as a pre wash, rinse then apply Ferrex , rinse then wash with ONR (or clay using ONR). Wondering if anyone has experimented with combining Power Clean and Ferrex in a foamer and applying as a single step. I am thinking of combining Power Clean at 5:1 with full strength Ferrex at 1:1 (or 1 part Power Clean, 5 parts distilled water and 6 parts Ferrex). Are there any potential interactions between the products? Is it safe to store this combination or should it only be mixed just prior to use?