whiplash willy

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whiplash willy last won the day on October 1 2014

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About whiplash willy

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    Optimum Apprentice

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  1. ?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

    I did use Paint Prep after the polish, here are the steps I took: 1. Decon Wash with Carpro Reset. Sprayed OPC at 1:3 on the side and rear panels before washing those sections 2. Used Optimum Ferrex on all panels, rinsed well, then did a 2nd wash with Reset. 3. Clayed with Medium Grade Synthetic Clay, using ONR at Clay Lube strength for lube. 4. Polished entire car with PC 7424, Hyper Polish & Lake County Orange CCS Pad (Removed residue with Microfiber soaking in ONR 1:256) 5. Went over entire car with ONR 1:256 Wash using microfiber towels to ensure any remaining polish residue was removed and to remove linting. 6. Optimum Paint Prep 7. First Coat of Gloss Coat 8. Waited overnight, and applied 2nd coat of Gloss Coat 9. Waited overnight, and applied 1 coat of Opti-Seal I am sure some of my steps were not needed, but I wanted to make sure everything went well. Thanks Ron & A&J! I am sure I am just being paranoid. On my way into work today it was raining a bit, and it looks like the coating is reacting to water properly. However, since I applied the Opti-Seal 2 days ago, I am not sure if what I am seeing is from the Opti-Seal or Gloss Coat. How long should Opti-Seal last on Gloss Coat? On a side note, I love how easy Hyper Polish is to use. I was skeptical at first, being in a spray bottle, but it makes it so much easier to get the right amount of product. I love how it has no dusting, and the residue is easy to remove. I had to use Menzerna PO 91E on a couple of spots, and that stuff was a mess, and got dust everywhere! Next time around I will make sure I have Hyper Compound on hand!
  2. ?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

    So I finished the 2 coats of Gloss Coat, and applied an additional coat of Opti-Seal just to be safe. Everything seems good so far, but I guess I need some time to be sure. Thinking back on my prep though, has got me a bit worried. For the majority of the car, on the polishing step, I used Hyper Polish and a Orange Lake County CCS Foam Pad (Light / Moderate Cutting Pad). I am worried that that combo may not have been enough to remove the old Gloss Coat, especially now that I read that Hyper Polish is a Light Finishing Polish. Do you think Hyper Polish and a Light Cut Pad is enough to remove my old Gloss Coat Coating so my paint will accept the new Gloss Coat? I will write up a more detailed post soon with more details an pics. For now/For Fun, here is a shot from after the 2nd coat of Gloss Coat was applied:
  3. ?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

    I am at the Clay/Polish stage today, and will be applying the Gloss Coat tomorrow. The problem is we are having a freak snow storm, and I have to drive my car Monday, which means it is going to catch some nasty road spray with dirt from the sand trucks, and probably some Mag Chloride. How soon after the application is it ok for the gloss coat to see water? Also, what is the soonest I can safely do an ONR wash, and a Standard water wash? Also, I remember seeing somewhere you can apply Opti-Seal after the Gloss Coat, even when it is still curing, which will provide a sacrificial layer while Gloss Coat is curing. Is that true, and how soon after applying the Gloss Coat, can I apply Opti-Seal? Thanks for your help guys!
  4. ?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

    Thanks guys! I will be using hyper polish on every painted surface to make sure the old coating is removed, and everything is clean.
  5. I applied Gloss Coat to my car about 1.5 years ago. It has held up pretty well in most places, but the time has come to do a full re-application of it. I have a couple questions. 1. I plan on applying 2 coats, to ensure coverage. How long should I wait after applying the first coat, before I can apply the second? 2. On my initial application, I applied it to the paint, as well as to a few exterior hard plastic parts. Since I can't polish the plastic, what do I need to do to "Prep" it for this new application.
  6. Gloss Coat Lost Sheeting Properties

    I have had no luck restoring the sheeting properties. I am going to re-apply it to the entire car, but have 2 questions: 1. Do I need to completely remove my current 1 year old application of Gloss Coat, or will a light polish be enough to allow the new application to cross link to the old? 2. I have Optimum Hyper Polish. Would this be enough to remove my old application of Gloss Coat, or do I need a polish with more cut?
  7. Gloss Coat Lost Sheeting Properties

    Any tips on what to use for a good Decon wash? How and when do I use Paint Prep, to see if it helps? Could MDR also be used to potentially bring back the beading? Is it possible the coating is still there, but the beading properties are just gone? Also, is it possible to use Poli-Seal on the area, if all else fails, and potentially bring back the beading, without removing the coating?
  8. I have been listening to some of Optimum's podcasts, and heard Dr G. talk alot about how Opti-Coat (I am assuming Pro) is Silicone Carbide based, which creates a permanent bond to the clear coat, while other coatings are SIO2 based. Since Gloss Coat isn't a permanent coating, I am assuming it isn't Silicone Carbide based. Is Gloss Coat an SIO2 based coating or something else? What are its benefits vs other coatings?
  9. Gloss Coat Lost Sheeting Properties

    I applied Optimum Gloss Coat June of 2016. For the last few months, I have noticed that water no longer beads or sheets well on the sides (Bottom half of driver and pass doors, Rear sides of bumper) and the rear of the car. Basically it is happening on all of the areas that are constantly hit with road spray. Every other part performs as well as when first applied.. I am trying to figure out if it is just because my coating is contaminated, or if the coating is gone in those areas. About a month ago, I was able to give it a thorough washing. I sprayed the areas with OPC 1:3, let it dwell for a min, and washed and rinsed the area. I also clay barred the entire car with Medium Grade Nano Skin, using ONR as the lube. The problem areas feel smooth and super clean after the clay, but those areas are still not beading well. I have been using Chemical Guys Mr. Pink as a car wash since I applied the coating, and recently discovered that it can leave stuff behind that will effect the sheeting properties of the coating. After some research, I decided to try using Carpro Reset (1 oz to 3-4 gallons water), to see if that would help, but unfortunately it had no effect. Maybe I didn't use enough, or it might take a couple washes? I am planning on trying another decon wash again next week with Reset at a higher concentration, and Iron-X as well, but I am not feeling confident it will work. Is there a way to see if the coating is still there and just contaminated? Any tips on what I can use to try and "revive" the coating, assuming the coating is there and just contaminated?
  10. Using MDR on Gloss-Coat

    I applied 2 layers of Gloss Coat on my 2016 WRX about 1 month ago. About a week ago, my car was attacked by a water sprinkler at work, and the water was left to dry in 80*F sunlight. Here is what it looked like: That night I was able to give it a thorough wash, I was able to get rid of most of the water spots, except for what remained on the Hood, Windshield, and Trunk. Over this weekend, I was able to give it another thorough wash, and sprayed OPC at 1:3 directly on the water spotted areas, and let it sit for about 1 min, before washing. I also tried using a Clay Bar and Distilled Vinegar at full strength to remove the remaining waterspots. Sadly none of this helped. I have MDR on order, and I will be able to use it this coming weekend. Here is a video of what the waterspots look like now, they can't be shown in a normal photo. https://youtu.be/k7x21Lb5ueg My questions are: 1. Will leaving whatever is left of these spots continue to damage my coating? I only clayed and used vinegar on some of the spots, and stopped when I saw they had no effect, but all spots have had 2 thorough washes. 2. Can MDR be used on Gloss-Coat, without damaging, or removing any of the coating? 3. If MDR doesn't work is my only option to polish out the spots, and re-apply the Gloss Coat to the areas I polished?
  11. OPC Mis Label?

    Chris, that is good to know! I ordered it directly from the Optimum website on Feb 27th. Paid through paypal (order id: 0A1022031L5836408) I feel much better about breaking the seal now!
  12. OPC Mis Label?

    I just recieved my 2nd gallon of OPC. It has a "Optimum Car Wash" label on it, which I belive is blue. It looks to be the same color as my last bottle of OPC, but I want to make sure that OPC is the only Optimuim product that is that color (Proving it is just a mis-label) before I open it. (As you can see I am getting dangerously low on my first gallon!)
  13. Rock Chip protection

    From My experience, Opti-Coat 2.0 does help a little against rock chips. I had a 2011 VW Jetta TDI for 1 year, and had a fair amount of small rock chips(no paint protection). I then traded it in for a 2012 Golf TDI, and Opti-Coated it. After about 1.5 years, of driving the same routes, I had about 1/4th as many rock chips on the Golf, and the most of the rock chips I did have didn't reach bare metal. Granted this isn't a scientific test or anything, but I think Opti-Coat "Helps" against chips. Also, my Jetta scratched very easy, and I am careful, and hand wash my cars every week. After 1.5 years with the Golf, I had zero Scratches or Swirls. It is totally worth it!
  14. Opticoat 2.0 Maitanence

    I opticoated my 2012 VW Golf TDI several months ago. So far, my expectations have been exceded. My 2011 VW Jetta had several rock chips on it by 10k miles, and my Golf only has 2 very minor ones. I have no scratches or swirl marks on the car. Washing and drying the car is alos much easier! The car still beads as well as it did right after the application. I have noticed that I can feel some contaminants on the paint when running my hand over the car. Is it ok to use a light clay to remove these contaminants? Should I do a light polish as well after the clay? Or how about just using Iron-X and Tar-X to easily remove the contamination? I just don't want to use anything that will have a negitive effect on my Opticoat.
  15. Several months ago, I opticoated my 2012 VW Golf TDI. So far I am loving the protection and waterbeading it has provided. I covered the headlights as well, but wanted to know how well Opticoat will protect my plastic headlights from becoming hazy and oxidized down the road. Is Opticoat enough protection, or should I use something in addition?