whiplash willy

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whiplash willy last won the day on October 1 2014

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About whiplash willy

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  1. Gloss Coat Lost Sheeting Properties

    I have had no luck restoring the sheeting properties. I am going to re-apply it to the entire car, but have 2 questions: 1. Do I need to completely remove my current 1 year old application of Gloss Coat, or will a light polish be enough to allow the new application to cross link to the old? 2. I have Optimum Hyper Polish. Would this be enough to remove my old application of Gloss Coat, or do I need a polish with more cut?
  2. Gloss Coat Lost Sheeting Properties

    Any tips on what to use for a good Decon wash? How and when do I use Paint Prep, to see if it helps? Could MDR also be used to potentially bring back the beading? Is it possible the coating is still there, but the beading properties are just gone? Also, is it possible to use Poli-Seal on the area, if all else fails, and potentially bring back the beading, without removing the coating?
  3. I have been listening to some of Optimum's podcasts, and heard Dr G. talk alot about how Opti-Coat (I am assuming Pro) is Silicone Carbide based, which creates a permanent bond to the clear coat, while other coatings are SIO2 based. Since Gloss Coat isn't a permanent coating, I am assuming it isn't Silicone Carbide based. Is Gloss Coat an SIO2 based coating or something else? What are its benefits vs other coatings?
  4. Gloss Coat Lost Sheeting Properties

    I applied Optimum Gloss Coat June of 2016. For the last few months, I have noticed that water no longer beads or sheets well on the sides (Bottom half of driver and pass doors, Rear sides of bumper) and the rear of the car. Basically it is happening on all of the areas that are constantly hit with road spray. Every other part performs as well as when first applied.. I am trying to figure out if it is just because my coating is contaminated, or if the coating is gone in those areas. About a month ago, I was able to give it a thorough washing. I sprayed the areas with OPC 1:3, let it dwell for a min, and washed and rinsed the area. I also clay barred the entire car with Medium Grade Nano Skin, using ONR as the lube. The problem areas feel smooth and super clean after the clay, but those areas are still not beading well. I have been using Chemical Guys Mr. Pink as a car wash since I applied the coating, and recently discovered that it can leave stuff behind that will effect the sheeting properties of the coating. After some research, I decided to try using Carpro Reset (1 oz to 3-4 gallons water), to see if that would help, but unfortunately it had no effect. Maybe I didn't use enough, or it might take a couple washes? I am planning on trying another decon wash again next week with Reset at a higher concentration, and Iron-X as well, but I am not feeling confident it will work. Is there a way to see if the coating is still there and just contaminated? Any tips on what I can use to try and "revive" the coating, assuming the coating is there and just contaminated?
  5. Using MDR on Gloss-Coat

    I applied 2 layers of Gloss Coat on my 2016 WRX about 1 month ago. About a week ago, my car was attacked by a water sprinkler at work, and the water was left to dry in 80*F sunlight. Here is what it looked like: That night I was able to give it a thorough wash, I was able to get rid of most of the water spots, except for what remained on the Hood, Windshield, and Trunk. Over this weekend, I was able to give it another thorough wash, and sprayed OPC at 1:3 directly on the water spotted areas, and let it sit for about 1 min, before washing. I also tried using a Clay Bar and Distilled Vinegar at full strength to remove the remaining waterspots. Sadly none of this helped. I have MDR on order, and I will be able to use it this coming weekend. Here is a video of what the waterspots look like now, they can't be shown in a normal photo. https://youtu.be/k7x21Lb5ueg My questions are: 1. Will leaving whatever is left of these spots continue to damage my coating? I only clayed and used vinegar on some of the spots, and stopped when I saw they had no effect, but all spots have had 2 thorough washes. 2. Can MDR be used on Gloss-Coat, without damaging, or removing any of the coating? 3. If MDR doesn't work is my only option to polish out the spots, and re-apply the Gloss Coat to the areas I polished?
  6. OPC Mis Label?

    Chris, that is good to know! I ordered it directly from the Optimum website on Feb 27th. Paid through paypal (order id: 0A1022031L5836408) I feel much better about breaking the seal now!
  7. OPC Mis Label?

    I just recieved my 2nd gallon of OPC. It has a "Optimum Car Wash" label on it, which I belive is blue. It looks to be the same color as my last bottle of OPC, but I want to make sure that OPC is the only Optimuim product that is that color (Proving it is just a mis-label) before I open it. (As you can see I am getting dangerously low on my first gallon!)
  8. Rock Chip protection

    From My experience, Opti-Coat 2.0 does help a little against rock chips. I had a 2011 VW Jetta TDI for 1 year, and had a fair amount of small rock chips(no paint protection). I then traded it in for a 2012 Golf TDI, and Opti-Coated it. After about 1.5 years, of driving the same routes, I had about 1/4th as many rock chips on the Golf, and the most of the rock chips I did have didn't reach bare metal. Granted this isn't a scientific test or anything, but I think Opti-Coat "Helps" against chips. Also, my Jetta scratched very easy, and I am careful, and hand wash my cars every week. After 1.5 years with the Golf, I had zero Scratches or Swirls. It is totally worth it!
  9. Opticoat 2.0 Maitanence

    I opticoated my 2012 VW Golf TDI several months ago. So far, my expectations have been exceded. My 2011 VW Jetta had several rock chips on it by 10k miles, and my Golf only has 2 very minor ones. I have no scratches or swirl marks on the car. Washing and drying the car is alos much easier! The car still beads as well as it did right after the application. I have noticed that I can feel some contaminants on the paint when running my hand over the car. Is it ok to use a light clay to remove these contaminants? Should I do a light polish as well after the clay? Or how about just using Iron-X and Tar-X to easily remove the contamination? I just don't want to use anything that will have a negitive effect on my Opticoat.
  10. Several months ago, I opticoated my 2012 VW Golf TDI. So far I am loving the protection and waterbeading it has provided. I covered the headlights as well, but wanted to know how well Opticoat will protect my plastic headlights from becoming hazy and oxidized down the road. Is Opticoat enough protection, or should I use something in addition?
  11. Removing Water Spots From Opti-Coat

    Please let me know, I am interested in finding out how they work! I did buy some Poli-Seal to use for correcting high spots during application. I was thinking about using it for the water spots on my paint. Do you guys think that would work well for waterspots? I don't really want to have to use polish on it already if I don't have to though. If I use it too frequently, wouldn't it eventually remove the opti-coat?
  12. Removing Water Spots From Opti-Coat

    I applied OC2.0 about a month ago, and am loving it so far! I have been noticing very small water spots though on my paint, that I am unable to remove by hand washing my car. What is the best/easiest/safest way to remove these from my OC2.0 surface? I also have bad water marks on my windshield (Not opticoated). Any tips on how to remove them from my windshield? I believe the water spots are from my hose water during my car wash, that has dried on the surface before i had a chance to dry it off.
  13. Power Clean On Galvanized Steel

    Chris, I will have to pick some up! What do you recommend I use as an applicator to apply by hand?
  14. Power Clean On Galvanized Steel

    I just picked up an old Beverage-Air Commercial Kegerator. The inside walls are galvanized steel, and the floor is stainless. I was thinking of using some Power Clean to clean the inside, but don't want to remove any of the zinc coating from the Galvanized steel. Is power clean safe to use on Galvanized Steel, and if so, what would be a safe dilution? Also, anyone know of a protectant I can use of Galvanized steel? There are areas that have rusted, and one I remove the rust, I want to protect those areas so they don't rust again! This kegerator needs some TLC to get it to the point where I will want to use it. It will be worth it though, since these things are built to last! New they are about $1500, and I paid $150 for this one! After 20+ years it still cools well, it is just ugly and dirty!
  15. Power Clean Residue After Use

    I got a gallon of Power Clean and been using it for the last month or so. I have it diluted at: 3:1 5:1 10:1 I have been using it for various tasks, and it is been working great, but I will sometimes see residue after use, even after what I consider a thorough rinsing. For Example: I use 3:1 to clean my factory clear coated wheels and tires. I spray, let it sit for about 1 min, agitate with a brush, the rinse off. I have noticed that when rinsing, I don't see much suds coming off. I still give it a good rinse for a while after I stop seeing suds. Sometimes I will see the residue left over on my wheels after drying them. Should I be using a lower concentration for my wheels? How well do you need to rinse 3:1 OPC to avoid residue? Also, can the residue damage clear coat if left on there, and what is the best way to remove it? Another example is I used 3:1 on my nissan 240 that had been sitting outside for months, to help clean the areas that had sap, pollen, and mold accumulation. After spraying the OPC, I agitated it with a boar hair brush in areas, and my wash mitt in others. I then rinsed these areas. I rinsed the car for a good 10 min, and suds from the OPC kept coming off. I then completely washed my car, then did a very thorough rinse as well. After drying I saw the OPC residue in the painted areas that I had used it. From all I have read, I didn't think OPC would need to be rinsed as much as I am currently rinsing it, and even then I am still having problems with residue. Any suggestions, or ideas on what I am doing wrong. It is a great product, I am just nervous to use it now because of the risk of residue. Maybe I should be using 5:1 or higher dilution ratios?