Heijneker

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Heijneker last won the day on January 30

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About Heijneker

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  1. If this indeed doesn't cause any staining, with proper usage and in the right climate, this sounds like an amazingly capable and fast way to clean cars. Way to go!
  2. Thanks for your info. PowerClean for tires seems to be a very effective way to clean them. For wheels it's most likely alot more effective as ONR, no matter the dilution. Do you rinse the wheels afterwards, if so; using a sprayer with ONR or with running water?
  3. Does that mean we don't have to worry about ONR drying on the surface? Because Yvan has stated alot, that if it dries, "just re-wet.". Or should that really be done with a soaked wash media?
  4. Heijneker

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    I'll keep my fingers crossed! It would be such a shame if those podcast would be lost, some real quality information in there.
  5. Nice to hear it works great! I have often heard from reputable sources that drying towels need to be damp in order to absorb the water, so maybe it's even a necessity! I know that with my own MF Towels, ranging from 150 GSM 70/30, to. 500 GSM 80/20, and different kind of weaves indeed have trouble absorbing water when dry. Say I would let water run on them, a lot of that water will just run off on top, with only small damp patches forming. I can't recall really having a problem with drying with a dry towel. Maybe something to do with pressure? A damp towel from ONR sure should be safer than a dry towel, I agree! Love to hear the PowerClean + BRS works great as well, sounds like a killer combo! There's a pretty recent video over on Hawker Pro Detailing Youtube Channel, washing a white Tesla Model S. The way the BRS literally cuts trough the dirt looks absolutely amazing.
  6. Haha no worries, please use when you see fit! I felt like writing this up, might as well share and get some feedback. Already have some changes/additions in mind, also about my 'Philosophy' behind it all haha.
  7. I used to think this was the way to go as well. Realistically it would depend on amount of soiling and how much swirling/marring matters. I have a feeling it would be safe enough, with frequent dunks lik Ron stated. It's the ultimate KISS-way, that's for sure! I'm curious about using a wrung out towel for drying as well. I think it would be difficult to get a stteak-free finish, especially noticeable on glass. Thanks for the feedback! Shame to hear about the necessity for Optimum Power Clean, but great that it it works so well. How about a soaked (ONR or regular water) towel, spread over the bugs to soak them? Any experience with that?
  8. Heijneker

    Anybody still alive?

    Ron, Thanks for the substantial reply. It's now very clear to me that using Optimum Power Clean, straight or slightly diluted, without rinsing afterwards is dangerous. I completely understand it's a difficult matter to explain to people, so thanks for taking the time. Opti-clean might be a better alternative, depending on the application/circumstances, though probably less effective.
  9. WARNING, LONG AND LIFE-DRAINING POST AHEAD! I've been brainstorming the following ALOT, and I would like to know the way to clean a car in the fastest (10-15 min), most efficient (Minimal tools) and most ecological (Less hot water, energy used, minimal chemicals) way, using mostly Optimum products, for normal cars. What follows is the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. but first: What do I class as a normal car: A car that is in relatively good or average shape. Car has never seen a paint correction, or fancy coating and has been washed every couple of months at the carwash, while being driven almost daily. Thus it hasn't been washed since a couple of months, and it won't be afterwards for a couple of months. Dirt to be expected: - Lot's of brake dust (Normal people use their brake ALOT lol). - Bird droppings (Mostly days or weeks old) - Sand kicked-up behind wheels and along doors. - Oily film along the side and frontal area. As this will be mostly a substitute for a Automated Car Wash, minimal Swirling is okay, gloss is important as well as cost (Minimal time). I hope to make a healthy business case out of this. For extremely dirty cars, or a post-winter wash, The Automated Car Wash is preferred. As a remark, I have no Hands-on experience with ANY of the Optimum Products as of yet, I'm an engineer, so I like to do alot of Desk research first. Thus, after countless hours (Really, 100's), of researching into this product line for my particular application, I will state what I have till now. Field research (Testing the products for myself) will soon commense. I have chosen this category as I would like the experts and other forum members to chime in with their ideas and criticism, or maybe even know the real Optimum Way, as envisioned by Dr. G. Hopefully, we/I can create the perfect Tutorial for this particular cleanse. The only wrong answer, critique or question is the one that isn't given or answered, so please don't be shy in stating your opinion. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Let's begin. 1. What Products to use to get it done: Optimum Big Red Sponge. A great re-usable wash media. Yvan an Levi have reported to get nearly a 1000 washes out of it, before retiring it from their business. I think that's a bit extreme, but 400 should be possible surely. Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar. Optimum Body and wheel Brush The Rag Company Jersey Bug scrubber. A big brush, suitable for wheel wells. Tire shine of choice Tire shine applicator pad of choice. Spray bottle. A big bucket for the wash solution (5-Gallon Container, 1-2 Gallon wash Solution) A Power Washer (Don't need a lot of pressure or waterflow here) or a water hose (WHAT??????? Yes.... I'll get to it later. For the pressure washer, a wide spray nozzle (40 deg.) is preferrable, generally the lowest pressure will suffice and is preffered.) Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Optimum No rinse Wash and Wax, diluted as per directions with distilled water. Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel (So far for "The Optimum Way" , and rinsing clearly went out the door as well, what am I even doing here?? We'll get to it!) Optimum Opti Seal and/or Optimum Car Wax Several Low pile, low GSM Drying Towels? (Whatever Yvan thinks is the way to go, I am uncertain what he thinks is best to use for drying a car.) 2. What to do? (Also read the tips in section 3 before you begin) Firstly, we want to pre-soak the areas with caked on dirt (Bug splatter, Bird droppings, Kicked-up sand) using the preferred Wash solution . Think about your college days, no dish washer and no time (or drive) to do the dishes. Stacking up for a couple of days, the dirt cakes on. You can either scrub for a while (not suitable for car paint) or dunk it in water and let it soak for some time (You can't quite dunk your car, so soaking will have to do.) Spray the Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel generously onto the soiled wheels. Make sure to cover all of the wheel, except for plastic parts. Leave to dwell for several minutes (Bilt Hamber states the product is best to be avoided on plastic surfaces, however, in my opinion this is unavoidable. I think the product hasn't been thoroughly tested (Because they don't have to, costs alot of money and the product sells fine as is) on plastic surfaces (Painted or unpainted) and thus they can't garantuee it's safe. I have a suspision it is safe on wheels but we will never know. DO NOT LET THIS PRODUCT DRY OUT). Using the Jersey Bug Scrubber, scrub the dead bug splatter from the frontal area of the car. (Pretty self explanatory, don't go too crazy, I thinks there is alot of chance of swirling here, if that bothers you. You might consider using Optimum Power Clean as a Pre-soak, though staining could be induced by this product.) Using the Optimum Body and Wheel Brush, scrub the grills (and emblems) present on the car. Could also be used on the bug splatters. (If you dare, however if you trust Optimum, this brush will not cause any scratches. I believe them fully. The dirt in the brush may cause scratches, in my unvalidated opinion.) Using the Big Red Sponge and the preferred Wash Solution, Wash the car, starting at the roof. Glass windows in doors that can be lowered should be avoided. The Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel should be used on areas you maybe can't reach with the sponge. Wash the car in sections, varying from the whole car, half a panel or a complete panel to a 10 x 10 section, depending on the weather. The solution shouldn't dry on the paint, but if it does, no biggie, Just re-wet, this causes extra work though. After the Wheel Cleaner has been sitting for 5 minutes (If possible with regards to heat and humidity) rinse off thoroughly. This will likely happen during step 4, resume that step afterwards.(Keep your distance during this step, as you want to avoid bombarding the brake system. So if possible, wash the wheel at the opposing end of the brake caliper, turning the wheel to rinse all the rim real estate. Cleaned sections must be sprayed with Optimum Car Wax and/or Optimum Opti-seal, amount as per directions. Placedry low-pile towel onto sprayed area and wipe the cleaned section. Using a low pile-towel, damp from the preferred wash solution, wipe and clean the glass areas you haven't cleaned yet. (Cleaning the windows this way avoids water getting past the window seals. Nothing bugs me more that having clean glass that gets stained from lowering/rasing. Clean glass is extremely important for happy clients Using a DRY low pile-towel to dry the glass area. Clean the wheel wells to your liking, using your brush of choice. Using an Eagle Edgeless 365 or similar towel, slightly soaked with the preferred wash solution. Wipe all of the door jams. Dry the door jambs. Apply Tire Shine of choice to the tires, according to the directions of the product. 3. Now what do we see? A Clean and well protected car! 4. Got some More......... Tips? I sure do, glad you asked. You can use Optimum Power Clean as a pre-spray, if you think it's necessary. It's an alkaline cleaner which means it's inherently more effective on organic matter. (Optimum officials, am I right on this??) There is some evidence that Power Clean doesn't need to be rinsed off after use, if followef by Optimum No Rinse and given right circumstances. HOWEVER, the general concencus seems to be that it needs to be rinsed off. Bilt hamber seems to be the most effective cleaner on the market. This could possibly be substituted for Optimum Ferrex, but I am doubtfull that works as well, to be honest. No disrespect to Optimum, but power to Bilt Hamber on that aspect! Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel could be replaced by The wash solution and some elbow grease. Your brake system will thank you for it! However, from time to time, Auto wheel or Ferrex needs to be used, to make the imbedded particles water soluable and remove them. After step 8, use Optimum Opti-seal for a Rain-X effect. It won't match it of course, applied in this manner. Now, for added efficiency, one could keep the wash solution of a previous wash, and use this for door jambs and wheel wells, before commensing with step 5. I don't really like cleaning tires, I don't think there is a need for it. 5. Why do it like this? Sadly, the rhiming part stops here. As an engineer (With a love for a clean car) I don't like to make uneducated guesses and or go with the feeling "don't worry about it, it'll be fine". I have done my best to really dig deep with everything regarding these products. However, you will still find alot of "Gut feeling" troughout this procedure. Nowadays, even normal cars are driving spaceships, with billions of dollars of R&D and Years of testing by a enormous group of very, very, VERY smart people. Cars nowadays basically have to be bulletproof (Or so I like to think), because they endure the most extreme climates. Cars are driven trough rainstorms, while having hundreds of electrical components, connections and sensors out in the open. These are sealed as much as possible, but still water should be avoided at all cost. Also, to avoid erosion, one should really try to minimize the contact the metal of the car has with water. Water is a great inducer of rust. All the stuff you pick up on the road (Except for salt, which is worse than water) isn't likely to be corrosive. Motor oil isn't, Gearbox oil isn't, Cooling liquid isn't, Brake fluid isn't. Maybe A/C fluid is, but I don't think so. Gasoline could be corrosive, i'm uncertain. It's preferable to introduce as little water as possible to the car. Also, I really don't think the Automated Car Washes is 'A one size fits all' solution. It's designed to make the most filthy of white (White cars don't get dirtier of course, it's just easier to spot.) cars look good again. Chemicals used could be described as 'Extreme', at least on the pH-scale. I think swirling is a non-issue for 99% of the people, so that's not the problem. The energy usage, amount of water and chemicals is, to me. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- That's the procedure I have dreamt up thus far. The product of months and countless hours of researching, brainstorming and envisioning. HOWEVER, I really think that most of it is still able to be improved or even changed completely. I really hope you've read it all, but that is alot to ask for anybody but myself, and thus my graditude would be inmeasurable. Greetings from Holland, Rik
  10. Heijneker

    Optimum Synergy Podcast M.I.A.

    Hey Julious, I use Libsyn via Google Chrome and that seems to be offline for me as well. I get a 404 Error-code. Really hope this gets solved.
  11. Heijneker

    Anybody still alive?

    Hey Aerou, Seems to me we are on the same page! Maybe I'm not the one to say this but; Welcome to forum! Rik
  12. Heijneker

    Anybody still alive?

    Thanks for the reply, Ron! I agree with you completely, though as they say, the strongest remain. In this case that would be the most experienced regarding the products. So I'm happy to have gotten replies from the people I hoped to. I'm also sad to see that Dann and Yvan are no longer active part of the team. Though I do think they are still cheering the team on, so to say, so maybe they'll chime in one day. If dr. G could clear some things up, that would be amazing, as I understand he has made a return to the company.
  13. Heijneker

    Anybody still alive?

    Thanks, LoweJackson! It sure is and there sure are! I think I've almost watched and/or listened to them all, several times. I hope to have some helpful discussions with those knowledgeable people and Optimum officials to chime in where needed.
  14. Heijneker

    Anybody still alive?

    Hey A&J! Love all the contribution you have made, I have read a lot of your posts, and watched a lot of your videos. Your comparision on rinseless/waterless washes was especially interesting and carefully done. You got me..... In the days following the post, it seemed as if my post wouldn't be posted due to inactivity in the forum (Is that a correct sentence even?). And scrolling trough the forum and the lack of new posts made me doubtfull. I also didn't get any updates on my Mail-account (until now), and have been and still am very busy (in my head, finishing my study). Thus excuses out of the way, I am happy to see some answers here, from the people I was hoping to get answers from! Thanks so much for the effort and time put into this post. You are very correct in that I'm not too concerned about swirls inflicted on the cars, though I'm trusting Optimum No Rinse or Wash & Wax, and Optimum Car Wax or Opti-Seal, when used as intented, to minimize swirls caused. The following will be adressed in a new Forum post as well, as I deem that more appr I would like to see a wash procedure that makes for a viable alternative to the Automated Carwashes, both in cost and cleaning results on moderately (Subjective) dirty cars (Weeks/Months since last wash). The gloss and swirl-hiding induced by Automated Car Washes (Though lasting mere days or even hours) will be hard to match, but I thinks that's a non-issue. Concering Power Clean: In a Popular video on Youtube from The Rag Company, featuring Levi and Yvan, in which they clean a heavily soiled black car. The video is of low quality, and details are not/barely shown afterwards. Production quality, as often is the case, seems to be low. Though Levi and especially Yvan are extremely knowledgable about the products, making it an interesting video nontheless. Yvan starts out by applying the Power Clean, undiluted I believe, to the frontal area of the car, on the bugs. Also on the window, in direct sunlight, and they don't seem to be in a hurry. They then proceed to agitate and afterwards clean it using Optimum No Rinse. This seems contradicting to alot of statements Yvan has made in other videos. Now I really don't want to bash on Yvan, I think he is a wonderful person and representative, and I'm sad to see that he has retired. I was really hoping to see/hear more of/from him, since I think I've consumed 90% of the available material. I'm eager to get my hands on these products ASAP and start testing on ALOT of cars. I think the Optimum Line-up is THE way for cleaning most cars. Bombarding your car with tens, or even hundreds, of liters of water at high pressure seems to me to be clearly wrong. Phew. Cheers to whoever read it all, hope I made sense. Thanks A&J. Rik
  15. Heijneker

    Anybody still alive?

    Hello there everybody, I'm Rik from the Netherlands. After a long time researching Optimum Polymer Technologies (Mostly Optimum No Rinse), I have now joined this forum for some unanswered questions and contradicting answers. Hopefully, there is some life left in this forum, but it seems pretty inactive... I'm escpecially interested in fast and efficient Rinseless washes for ordinary (And let's face it: neglected) cars. Cars that get washed only a couple of times a year in a carwash and are used daily. I'm excited to learn from all of the active members (E.g. Setec, A&J, LoweJackson) and the Optimum officials (E.g. Ron, maybe even the elusive Dr. G.) I have no experience yet in using Optimum products, but hope to order some soon. My questions will be mostly about Optimum No Rinse and Optimum Power Clean. Kind regards, Rik