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Heijneker last won the day on August 25

Heijneker had the most liked content!

About Heijneker

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    Optimum Obsessed

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  1. Heijneker

    Opti-Seal as Drying aid

    What do you mean with soaking in ONR before drying? You use wrung out towels to dry? I used to do that and worked pretty good mostly.
  2. Heijneker

    Opti-Seal as Drying aid

    Great to hear, I will soak the towels right after use, I think letting the towels sit and dry up was the cause of my problems. Soaking in Optimum Power Clean at 1:100 to be safe to start with. I went ahead and bought some real drying towels after using one again. It's a world of difference compared to terry towels in speed and cleanliness. Bought some TRC Double Twistress towels, and want them to keep performing as amazingly as they should.
  3. Heijneker

    Opti-Seal as Drying aid

    I was wondering, for those that use Opti-Seal as a drying aid; how do you keep your towels from becoming hydrophobic? For me it's a pretty big problem, but I use low quality towels not even meant for drying (16x16, 320 GSM 70/30 Chinese made). They sit several days afterwards as well, before being washed, so worst case scenario basically.
  4. Heijneker

    Protection duration several products

    Thanks for the input, Ron, I appreciate it. I'll go by A&J's stated times. I actually thought that was quite long for the wax to stay on top of Opti-Seal, but I can believe it. One car I did that way, certainly still seems to have that deep warm gloss OCW gives, after applying it 5 weeks ago over a fresh coat of OOS. Only had 1 wash since then. I'm really beginning to love OCW for exactly that, waxxing a car seems to take me just 5 minutes or so. Next order will definetly be a gallon of the stuff, as well as Opti-Bond and ONR (New formula hopefully) again. Excited to see what the future holds for OPT products!
  5. Heijneker

    Protection duration several products

    Thanks for the answers, guys. @Ron@Optimum can you chime in on the subject?
  6. Excuse me if these questions have been answered before, but I would like to know the duration of protection of several products: - ONR W&S - ONR W&W - OCW when used over Opti-Seal I remember Dr. G stating ONR W&S lasts a couple of weeks/rainstorms, but can't find that post anymore. Also, it's a long time since that was stated anyway, so it's likely this has changed in the meantime. Thanks.
  7. Right now I'm on vacation to sunny italy, I didn't bring my cleaning supplies with me, which I sorely regret. I did however, pack Opti-Seal and some cheap MF towels, since I used it as an interior glass cleaner with great succes before. My sunglasses were very nasty from sweat and sunscreen, and just MF towels weren't enough, so I used some Opti-Seal. Worked awesome of course, cleaned up perfectly. Later on, the glasses got as dirty again. I was driving so my girlfriend had to do the cleaning. She used solely the MF towel, but now they cleaned up perfectly! Later still, even a cotton shirt would do the job pretty okay, which is astonishing. I'm amazed, Opti-Seal also gives glass a really nice slick/clean feeling. TL;DR: Opti-Seal makes my super greasy/dirty sunglasses' lenses extremely easy to clean smudge free, and I love how it makes glass feel!
  8. @Nav Sounds indeed like the product was mis-sold to you, which is a shame. However, the coating is most likely still installed correctly, you should contact the installer first, like Ron has stated. I think your problem is not the same as that of the topic starter. It will most likely need a proper decontamination wash, which he will certainly be able to perform quickly. Afterwards it will perform the same or better as when you first got it. This will need to be done periodically, once you notice loss in performance. If time is an issue, and money seems not to be, there should be someone capable willing to come and wash/monitor the car/coating for you.
  9. Heijneker

    ONR Safe for Hardwood Floors?

    ONR Should work great for that, as far as not hurting the floor, but don't expect it to do anything more than regular water would do, no matter the concentration. It would just do it scratch-safer, depending on the usage. 1 oz to 1 gallon is good, but maybe 1 oz to 2 gallon (256:1, normal dilution) would be sufficient.
  10. @rjblake the Wheel & Body brush, available at The Rag Company.
  11. Heijneker

    Greetings from Green Bay, WI

    Must be awesome to get a new car! A clean and near perfect sheet, must be great to have. Ron's advise is most trusthworthy here, but I'd like to give my take on things as well. I suggest you get the following: - ONR Wash&Shine (Blue one), I think it's the more versatile cleaner, since it's more adept to interior cleaning. Blue ONR seems to have a lot of gloss enhancers these days and pretty okay protection, which is awesome. I find it hard to get streak free windows with ONR, but maybe a stronger concentration in a spray bottle would be an awesome window cleaner. Need to test that out. Don't expect it to work on kicked up sand, mud or bigger bits of debree, these should preferably be rinsed off first. - Opti-Seal is awesome as a drying aid, and very economical. Watch out though, cause it will likely ruin your dring towels, at one point they will only work properly if you use Opti-Seal. That's the case with me at least. Opti-Seal gives a nice shine, but nothing crazy. It's the best glass cleaner I have used to date, but not perfect and my search continues. The ease of use with Opti-Seal, whatever way you apply it is absolutely insane. Expect Opti-Seal to last 3 months if used as a drying aid. You won't really know when it's gone, so just apply it a couple of times a year as a drying aid (or during every wash, for easy drying), or two times a year with the foam applicator. I personally don't use it on wheels. - Optimum Car Wax gives an amazing shine, but requires a bit of elbow grease, compared to Opti-Seal, and is a bit more finnicky. As a drying aid it works good. I would expect it to last a month or three weeks when used as a drying aid or when used dry. - Optimum Power Clean is an absolute necessity in my opinion. If only to clean wheels and tires, on which it works awesome. For tires I would suggest a stiff brush from the rag company, and for wheels the Optimum Wheel & Body brush. Maybe a lug nut brush. I don't know yet how to clean wheel barrels or wheel wells if you want to stay rinseless. But a Worx Hyrdoshot may work great for the whole wheel area. I also use Power Clean to soak bugs on the frontal area (front bumper, hood, grille, windshiels, wing mirrors), and use distilled vinegar to neutralize. Be careful though, since vinegar causes surface rusting on bare metal. I first clean the frontal area quickly so the dirt is off there, allly OPC, agitate with W&B brush (SOOOOOO SOFT), spray vinegar, wash again and dry. Works pretty great. - Avoid using Super Clean or any of those cheaper All Purpose Cleaners. They ruin your car, your equipment and possibly your health. - Clay as needed indeed, and I suggest reapplying Opti-Seal (And Car Wax) after claying. A good test would be to get a plastic bag, put your hand in it, and gently wipe the paint after you cleaned it. You will feel if it needs claying. - Towels are a great way to use ONR, but the Big Red Sponge or the new Ultra Black Sponge are also great ways of applying ONR to the car. They need an occassional scrub with Power Clean, but generally, after a dunk in ONR, they are completely clean. When used in conjunction with a large and high qualtiy drying towel, there isn't a faster way to wash your car, which you may find enjoyable. - Optimum tire bond has not served me very well yet, and seems to last for a short amount of time sometimes. But this may be due to improper cleaning beforehand on my part. Hope this helps.
  12. Heijneker

    Can OID replace ONR?

    Now now A&J, to me, the more questions the better! Seems to me he is very enthusiastic about his car and Optimum products and wants to learn more; Awesome! As per Yvan's advise (ex OPT-guru); only use OID directly after cleaning the car to remove slight smears and fingerprints (not on glass), and/or to give an amazing gloss (used as a drying aid). It can't really handle dust or dirt particles, which will cause marring. Optimum products are designed to work together, so they say. So you could expect that using OID, OCW (Optimum Car Wax), and Hyperseal can all be used together, and even on a coated car would increase gloss. I won't expect tóó much difference from OCW and/or Hyperseal on a coated car, but surely OID will make a significant difference (no experience). Rule of thumb for coated cars: don't expect the products/gloss to last, the coating will shed these products quicker than bare paint. OID will maybe last a couple of days. You can test mixing products together in a spray bottle (if that's what you meant), but it would be an absolute miracle if you can make that work. ONRWW with OID as a drying agent will most likely give an amazing result! If you have the means, just try out what you think may be a good idea! It's the only way to get a proper answer. And keep us updated when you do!
  13. @Iann It may sound that way, but I'm still only a rookie! I have been looking into Optimum Products since approx. a year now, so just got to grips with how everything works and slots in together. I use Optimum products professionally, cleaning customer cars occasionally. As for coatings; I am very uneducated on this subject, because I kind of dislike the thought of them. Slowly getting around to that though, as I start to learn more about them. One last thing (again...), since CarPro Reset seemed to help, I suggest you try OPC as well. This is a lot stronger than Reset. Regarding the micro-scratches: There's polishing, and then there's polishing 😁. Most likely, the scratches will not be removed, he will probably barely do enough polishing to remove the coating. You are best to communicate this with the installer, if you can.
  14. Heijneker

    2019 Ford F-150

    The interior looks as great as the exterior! Haha I know how you feel man, after the 1st try of ONR, using regular car wash soap was basically NO option anymore. I might try it again soon, just to remind how much I've come to hate that type of wash. ONR works great as an interior wipedown for me, but streak-free windows I find hard to achieve.
  15. @Iann It sure shows that it's a new car, looks awesome! To put some more thought into it (hope I don't bore you to death): I kind of get the feeling you got tricked, and you actually did not get the coating, or at least an insanely poor install. However, the water behaviour on the side windows makes me think there's roadsalt on there, even though that may be very unlikely. So to be sure, I'll provide you with some more information, which you may/may not find useful. With MDR, a bit of dwell time would greatly help it. Since it's a gel, drying out won't happen very soon (I'd like to try a gel-variant of Power Clean). 10-20 minutes dwell time in the shade and cool temperature is surely possible. But start with 5 mins, and ramp up dwell time per testpanel, till something hopefully works. Optimum Power Clean is also part of a proper/complete decon wash, diluted 1:5 in a sprayer/foamer. This surely has a lot more power than Carpro Reset, if only due to the lower dilution ratio. A full-on decon wash with Optimum Products would look like: - (Optimum Car Wash pre-foam) Optimum Power Clean on front end - Rinse with pressure washer - ONR wash - Quickly Dry with MF Towel (only necessary if you use the BRS and the car is dirty, it leaves behind dirt and you want a squeeky clean car for the next step) - Foam/spray OPC and agitate with W&B Brush (Completely scratch safe, amazingly soft brush), wheels as well (different brush) - Rinse - Quickie BRS ONR wash to get most of the water off and have ONR on the surface - Ferrex and agitate with clay towel or brush. Ferrex sprayed onto the clay towel works great and is far more economic. Just 2-3 sprays per panel needed. - Rinse - Quickie BRS ONR wash - Apply MDR, let it dwell for desired amount of time - Rinse - ONR wash - (Optimum T.A.R., rinse, Wash) - (Optimum paint prep) In your case, I would leave out Ferrex and test slowly ramping up dwell times with MDR. Maybe paint prep would help if MDR doesn't, but I wouldn't bet on it. Sorry for this long and possibly obsolete post. I do hope you find something of use though. Please keep us updated on what the proper remedy for your problem will turn out to be!