sscully

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About sscully

  • Rank
    Optimum Apprentice

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Under the flightpath of ORD 22R
  1. for MF pads, I use a plastic wash board in the sink after blowing them out and brushing them a bit with a stiff pad brush. Just be careful not to drive the edge of the pad into the washboard, I have peeled the MF off the foam base in the past. after a brushing and blowing off, there is not a lot left in them to clean out, 3 sprays with GG pad cleaner and scrub for about 30 seconds each half. I have the grit guard pad washer, and for foam pads there is nothing quicker for me. Use the LC pad cleaner powder in the water, give the pad 2 sprays of the GG pad & MF cleaner, mount on the rotary @ 1500 RPM, and the pad is clean in ~ 2 min. I still use mine to this day, foam pads have never been cleaner, quicker.
  2. I use a rubber sanding block ( like the Megs ), stuffed into a cut off thumb from a XXL nitrile glove with the "other" company's 20x20 CM suede cloth around it. This stops soaking into the rubber sanding block, and gives a firm base to apply it from. I have the Opti applicator for dad's RV, but have not started that application yet ( defect removal is quite a task ).
  3. Greetings from Normal, IL

    Welcome to the site, a lot of good info in the archives and hands on application experience with the members here. - I know it helped me a great deal when starting out.
  4. Opti-Seal over Opti-Coat 2.0

    I thought the same thing. The poster on those forums is pretty keen on he knows what he is doing. If you were to question that, it would be met with a polite but firm, "I know what I am doing" ( he is not a jerk about it like the others on that forum ). Why the thread of supposition needed to be put on 2 forums is a different question. He does not have a good grasp on the product or any first hand input on the washing done for that time ( sure dad, I washed it once a week...). So off to spread speculation and conjecture... Next thing you know, Internet grape vine is going to take over, and the competing products ( that require a "reload" ) will key on it, and take off with internet rumor mongering that OG grabs on to and holds contaminates not releases them as advertised. This is how bad info starts floating around, and becomes pseudo fact. - I read it in 2 places, so it must be true. Off to post it on another forum. Then the "search for it on google and you will see" posts will start popping up. Not a good thing for OPT, but it is interesting to see ground zero on what could become an internet rumor starting. - You can see how the monkey pile has already taken hold at the 1st forum.
  5. OPT's Polish II or the "Other" Guys?

    What do you mean by "deep cleaned" ? If you go wash - clay - polish, the paint should be clean and ready for LSP. The clay step should have removed anything that was bonded to the paint. If you have specific heavy fall out or something like metal against metal on the brakes, that could have peppered the side of the car, that is when something like Iron-x is needed ( or a more aggressive clay and take the pain in fixing the aftermath with a polish / compound ) Items like the P21s are products that are used after a wash ( maybe clay ) prior to reapplying LSP, when there are no defects to be taken care of. That same process can be done with Hyper Polish and a black or blue pad in my book. I do not have a dedicated "paint cleaner". Just trying to figure out what you need to have done.
  6. Opti-Seal over Opti-Coat 2.0

    Be careful with that thread. A lot of supposition floating around in it. - not a shock for those who read that forum, ideas spring up and take hold very quick, so conjecture becomes fact in less than 24 hours. The one right out of the gate that caught my eye: "We have the newer OG which is layerable" - No OC /OG has always been able to be layered. From Chris ( thread in this forum ) : The "tweak" in OC 2.0 and the "newer version" of OG are they take longer to harden, which means OG can now be layered the same as OC 2.0. - http://optimumforums...?showtopic=1869 This is just doing a layer on the previous application without polishing. With a polish of the application, you can layer it after the ~ 30 day window is past.
  7. Opti-Seal over Opti-Coat 2.0

    The threads I read here said not to top OC 2.0. The "release" feature of OC 2.0 will have any product applied gone by ~ 4 weeks, and in that time, the surface characteristics will take on what you applied not the release / " anti stick" surface of OC 2.0. I only use ONR mixed to a QD ratio ( 15:1 ) to go over the OC surfaces, it brings the surface back to a nice shine ( like the day it was applied ) . It is not slick, but OC is not a slick type surface application. This is just what I read here in this sub forum, and I have followed it since my 1st OC application with good results.
  8. I have been trying GG, pre wax cleaner spray ( a different version of an IPA wipe down ). So far it seems to work fine, but I don't have 2 years on an OC application yet. think Kleene (sp?) is what I have read on the forums here, that some use as the wipe down. If you have ti defect free, I would not go after another wash, no need to chance adding in marring with a wash and dry ( make making sure all the trim is blown dry so you don't have trim drips on the new OC application )
  9. OC and single-stage paints (newer cars)

    I only have about 5 or 6 weeks on it so far... I am OC'ing the SIL's new to her, 2002 mustang that has a "hot iron" red single stage paint job, over the factory red paint. It is paper thin. I gave it a polishing with Hyper Polish on a black pad, and then a quick Hyper Polish on a blue pad prior to OC'ing it. I did not get all the defects out, but it shined prior to the OC application. - I was too chicken to go all in on the defects, considering how thin the top SS paint job is by my estimates. There is a chip on the hood that had an Autozone "close enough red" touch up on it that did not fully take. The layer there is paper thin. Only time will tell if this does anything, I only did the hood so far, and waiting to see what happens with the oxidation.
  10. Deciding on a polish

    It will make things much quicker for detailing to have the DA, and if you find a defect by hand that is giving you grief, the DA will make quicker work of it. If you are able to swing the budget for the DA, hold off on the other oval hand pads. Might as well get pads you can use on the DA as well as by hand ( small cost for the polishin pal ). Also you might want to get an Opti MF cutting pad, and 2 MF polishing pads instead of foam. I have the MF pads, and use them quite a bit, even though I have a pile of foam pads. If I was starting out, I would only get the MF cutting and polishing pads, a black and red foam pad and call it a day. You need a stiff brush for cleaning the MF pads. It is starting to add up real quick, and this is how it happens Just watch your budget and get items that can over multiple functions ( polish pad holder for using pads on the DA as well as by hand ). GG has a pad holder that I think it tagged 6", but it will hold a 5.5" pad. I have one of these for using with a LC hydro tech red pad for applying OptiSeal on large vehicles. Just buy what you need, and think on it for a week or two. Else you will have the cabinet full of non core products that you don't use ( I just cleaned out my cabinet after 10 years of collecting impulse purchases ).
  11. Deciding on a polish

    If the defects are not that bad, you might want to consider a black pad. I am just going from what I have felt on the white oval hand pad vs what the flat LC pads feel like. I have not tried the 2 side by side on the same defect to know if this is true. If money is a bit tight, stick with what you have. It would make things easier on possible cramping, but you might not have that problem. Stick with your plan on using the hand pads, no need to go spending money on a maybe. The paint roller screen, no need to get aggressive with it, just nice back and forth motion to clean the pads. I hold the MF pads with the leading edge held up, so I cannot push it through an opening and damage them. I just happen to find this after peeling the MF part off the foam backing when using the rotary in the grit guard pad cleaner. Sounds like you have some good respect for what could happen, just keep your head about you, and you should do fine. We all started out with that questioning our abilities, and it is a good stance to have. Those that don't, generally speaking, are the ones that hour glass the hood of their vehicle with a rotary.
  12. Hello (and Howzit) from TX!

    Welcome to the forums, a lot of good info on technique and product usage here, helped me a great amount so far. The yellow can of Simoniz, recall it, that is all I used on my '81 Ford F100. - At times I thought I was going to need a hammer and chisel to get it off. Same thing, old bath towels and cheese cloth to remove product off the paint. If I were to look at that paint condition back then in the present day/.... WOW, I would be embarrassed to drive it.
  13. Deciding on a polish

    The white LC CCS hand pads almost feel like they have more bite to me than the white pads for a DA / rotary ( they feel real stiff ), so you might want some black pads also ( depending on the defects ). If you are going to doing hand applications, you might want to look at the polishing pal, pad holders. These are Velcro round pad holders with a "ball" for your hand and get the 4" pads for it. It will save you a few hand cramps and if you need to get aggressive with it, the polishing pal will go easier than the oval pads. If you have 2 white you should be good to go, but you might want to get black pads as well. Price shop the 4" LC pad choices, the flat Lc pads that other sites carry are the same price as the oval CCS LC pads. 1 manufacture has the oval flat LC hand pads for 20% less than the CCS oval hand pads. Take a look for a plastic wash board or 1 gal paint can roller screen for cleaning them. You can use some MF cleaner for the cleaning product, and put them in a bucket with the screen. I use a MF pad cleaning solution on my Opti MF pads and a plastic wash board, and they almost look new when I get done with them. Keeping them clean and letting them completely dry before putting them back in the bag is one step to long term pad life.
  14. Deciding on a polish

    By hand, my suggestion would still be Hyper Polish. I use it on the MF pads, Foam pads and just FRI night used it by hand with a black finish pad to remove some defects in a black flash before Opti Coating it ( paint on it is soft like Playdough ). I have the best luck with Hyper Polish, it is one of the polishes I use on a blue LC pad as my final polish before applying OC. I tried the Finish Polish and actually prefer the Hyper Polish. I got the 64 oz the last time, and put some in a Titebond glue type bottle ( no the M company did not invent that bottle, it has been around for decades as a glue bottle ), so I have it in both a spray and dispenser type bottle. Using Hyper Polish and changing out the aggressiveness of the pad works great for me.
  15. Correct steps and products for Opti-Coat 2.0

    Got any pictures of what it looks like ? On the simple side is a wash and Hyper Polish once over. On the other end of the spectrum is compounding with a cutting pad, polish w/ polishing pad and polish with a finishing pad route. How the surface actually looks will indicate what is needed. What ever is needed, best to take your time and the paint now to make it right. Else it is going to be there until the end of time.