Setec Astronomy

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Setec Astronomy last won the day on March 7

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About Setec Astronomy

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  1. Setec Astronomy

    Is there an Opti-Coat Pro patent?

    Ron, you know I love Optimum...but Opti-Seal wasn't even the first WOWA sealant to market, Zaino beat Optimum by some months back in 2007. I still remember Anthony Orosco beside himself that someone had come out with a similar product seemingly in parallel (since, per Anthony's telling, he put the idea for a sealant that you just "wipe on, and walk away" into Dr. G's ear, and had of course been the Alpha tester during the development). There were 3 WOWA sealants that came out in 2007, and a few more since.
  2. Setec Astronomy

    Ferrex as a wheel cleaner?

    To be honest I haven't developed a rinseless wheel regimen that I'm happy with. Partly because I have tons of conventional shampoo, I tend to do a conventional wash on wheels, even if I am doing a rinseless on the rest of the car. A lot of this is to scrub the tire, and maybe that will change if I ever run out of tire dressing and switch to a coating. Again I would suggest a coating on the wheels, that will go a long way towards helping you get to a "spray and rinse" result. Not sure how Gloss-Coat will hold up to Ferrex; I have some old Opti-Coat 2.0 I use for wheels.
  3. Setec Astronomy

    Ferrex as a wheel cleaner?

    Oh, now I see more where you were going in that other thread. Let me put it this way...if your wheels have a lot of buildup or if you have pads/rotors that shed a lot of particles (or your driving style encourages that...ahem), then you are likely to have to do a lot of agitation, especially the first time. Once you get them clean, you may be able to get away with the spray-and-rinse if you're doing it weekly. To help with that you might want to think about coating the wheels, or at a minimum use a spray sealant or wax weekly when drying, that will go a long way. There are also some spray on/hose off SiO2 products that are good for things like wheels, that you could do outside after the Ferrex, and refresh it every month or two.
  4. Setec Astronomy

    Opti-clean on tires

    Why don't you want to agitate the Ferrex? As A&J suggested, I would use the Ferrex outside, with a good agitation and rinse, then bring the car inside and spray and wipe with the Opti-Clean to get rid of any water spotting. Or are you going to pressure wash the Ferrex off? If so it's possible you could skip the agitation.
  5. Setec Astronomy

    Infotainment Screen & Dash Clear Plastic

    I personally would not use Protectant Plus on a touch screen or my instrument cluster. The Optimum product I would use is Opti-Clean, but make sure to spray it on your towel, and not on the surface, as you don't want to get any product inside either the electronics of the touchscreen, nor the enclosure for the instruments. Be gentle as these surfaces can scratch easily and it can be REALLY annoying once that happens. Use a good quality, clean microfiber, and flip it to a clean side often to prevent grinding any dirt or dust into the surface.
  6. Setec Astronomy

    New to Fourm

    Welcome to the forum, you might want to think about using ONR Wash & Wax, since it adds some UV protection. It is going to have a little more tendency to streak when drying in that hot AZ sun.
  7. Setec Astronomy

    Well good evening . . .

    Hey, welcome to the forum, that's great and interesting that the Optimum products are non-sensitizing for your respiratory condition.
  8. Setec Astronomy

    Grit guard with ONR?

    I have tried many times to like the "single-use media" method, but I just don't. Still trying to find the right media to make it work for me. Makes a lot of laundry, too.
  9. Setec Astronomy

    Grit guard with ONR?

    Yes. It's called cheap insurance. If a 5 gallon bucket is too big as Ron says, use 3.5 gallon buckets, that's what I do. Grit Guard fits fine. That's part of the point of the Grit Guard, it's got dividers to keep the water from swirling and minimize the disturbance of the grit. Does it work perfectly and infallibly? No. Sure ONR sequesters stuff...and there is this thing called gravity that does make things fall to the bottom of the bucket, But even if your wash media floats, when you use enough solution to get down to the you want your wash media to be in all that crap? I use a 10 quart home store paint bucket as a wash bucket (because it's translucent so I can see any contamination easily) and a 3.5 gallon rinse bucket with a Grit Guard, that has 1/4-strength ONR in it (to reduce dilution of the wash bucket). I typically use 1/2 gallon of ONR solution to wash a small, dirty car or a large not-so-dirty car (no wheels), and about 2 gallons in the rinse bucket (you need that much to get above the Grit Guard). Of course you need more wash solution if you are doing huge vehicles or they are very dirty.
  10. Setec Astronomy

    Filtering ONR (W&W) Wash Water

    What are you saying, you want to separate out the concentrate again from the solution? So you could sewer the water and re-use the concentrate? I've never heard of doing anything like that for something that's biodegradable like ONR is. You could evaporate it back down to the concentrate, but I'm sure the cost of doing that would exceed mixing up new, likewise a chemical process would likely bind the ONR to something else to separate it from the water, and then the ONR would have to be separated (if possible) from what it was bound to....again not worth it. But take what I'm saying with a grain of salt, I'm not a chemist, I just play one on the internet, sort of.
  11. Setec Astronomy

    Filtering ONR (W&W) Wash Water

    It depends how you're using it, also...Yvan used to use a single bucket, which I guess is the OPT recommendation, where a lot of us use a rinse that case the solution bucket stays pretty clean, and I don't see it being a big deal to go on to another car with it, depending (more than likely I'm going to use one batch per car, just because if I drove through some crap that's on my car, I'm not going to risk transferring that to my better half's car by using the same bucket of wash...I mean, that's just asking for a divorce, right?) But at the end of the session, I'm going to pour that out. If you're using a single bucket...I'm going to dump that out and get a fresh bucket and fresh media for the next car, even if it's just the next car in my driveway.
  12. Setec Astronomy


    My main objection to HF is the safety issues associated with it, I personally don't think it should be used outside a controlled industrial setting. My comment was more along the lines of that is not the acid that comes to mind for water spots, I guess because water spots are frequently a problem on windows, and HF etches glass. Since water spots can etch into the paint, it's possible the acid has removed the mineral deposit, but left the damage to the paint, which would then have to be mechanically removed (polishing). It's possible you got something else on your vehicle, somehow...crazy things happen.
  13. Setec Astronomy

    Filtering ONR (W&W) Wash Water

    Ron, you remember, Yvan had a video in his shop in Montreal, where he showed some kind of crazy double bucket that he made so he could reuse ONR for a long time. While I can sort of understand this in an commercial setting, the weight of his advice seemed to convince some enthusiasts that this was a good idea. For a normal car owner doing a few washes a week, I can't think of any possible reason you would want to re-use dirty wash's just crazy. I mean I understand that instead of just pouring out the dirty solution, you wiped down the siding on your house, but saving it for the next wash is just crazy (unless, as I said, in a commercial setting, when the next wash is 2 minutes away, and you're just a car washer...but if you are a high-end detailer, I think it would be malpractice to not give a new customer a fresh bucket of wash and media).
  14. Setec Astronomy

    Wash n wax

    Ha, don't we all have that problem with too many products and not enough things to use them on...sometimes I'm really happy when something goes bad and I can throw it out without guilt. As far as the question, those wash & wax products shouldn't hurt Optiseal, any more than any kind of wash/abrasion/drying is going degrade your LSP (Last Step Product, wax or sealant), but as previously noted, it may change the beading behavior of the Optiseal temporarily. So I don't think you're "messing up" by using them.
  15. Setec Astronomy


    If you've got water spots that aren't coming off with acid (I'm not sure HF is really the acid of choice for water spots but don't go by me), then either the spots have etched into the surface, or something else is going on. I don't see how you can be getting water spots on your car in the winter if you wash with distilled water (and I presume because it's winter, you're not washing, anyway). There's two other prime ways to get water spots; lawn sprinklers (which shouldn't be a problem in the winter), and runoff from bridges/parking structures. Do you park in a parking garage? You can get some ungodly spotting from water/salt that runs through the structure and picks up minerals from the concrete, rebar, etc. I'm always concerned when I drive under a concrete bridge that's dripping that the same thing will happen, and I think I HAVE had that happen on a few occasions in years past.