Bence

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About Bence

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    Optimum Fanatic
  • Birthday 04/11/1973

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    Hungary, Europe
  1. Opti-Seal Q&A

    Hi Setec! Still lurking around, just less... ;-)
  2. Opti-Seal Q&A

    It works reliably close to the freezing temps. But remember, always keep the bottle in your pocket and do NOT let it freeze.
  3. Opti-Seal Q&A

    I never used my OOS as a drying aid, but it looks like a worthy try.
  4. Acrylics vs. Polymer

    Well, yes. But consider this: I'm on my last bottle of ONR. And I still have umpteen jars/bottles of waxes, less and less, but still more than enough polishes, a one gallon jug of OID concentrate, the same amount OCW - but I haven't bought ANYTHING detailing-related thing in the last 5 YEARS... I haven't even saw a MF pad in its physical entirety... I plan to to buy stuff again (Rupes Bigfoots, new gen pads, polishes, compounds), but I MUST force myself to use up my old stack o'products. Thread hijack off. Last year I did a Peugeot 207 CC with CL68 ONLY (rotary, orange Scholl pads, one-step). That poor thing was in an awful shape, with grime everywhere, torn leather, tons of dust, bad repaint with peeling CC, CC failure, etc. The scale of raw chemical cleaning was unbelievable, the pads almost looked like it was a SS. But ultimately, it came out to around 95% which is almost too good for that car. Especially depth was amazing, and the correction factor was very surprising. Accumulator always said that in his experience CL68 was functionally nonabrasive, but the results are better than the lone orange foam would suggest... So, all in all, acrylics or not, CL68 still produces spectacular results. A very finely tuned, balanced product. I still vote for acrylics, because of its brightness and the characteristic "silver ghosting" when looking from certain angles. Pics:
  5. Acrylics vs. Polymer

    Hi Lowe! Yup it's been a looong time... I'm a very rare bird on the detailing forums now. But I can't resist the urge, and have to check how the things are goin'. And wow, the way products & methods are evolving, is truly impressive.
  6. Acrylics vs. Polymer

    Well, Carlack.de/.com (actually carlack-deutschland.com) still mentions "PE-Acrylic Compound" at the CL68 NSC's description. In the MSDS however, only wax emulsion is mentioned. It seems that the LLS was steered completely towards waxes as well. As they moved their entire production to Maxolen (Switzerland), maybe their basic recipes were tweaked too. Your infos are very detailed, so a big thanks for that!
  7. Compound II

    Letting a polish/compound sit on the surface is simply wrong. Obviously, your method has several fundamental flaws: 1.) If you leave your polish to dry out on the surface, you will instill micromarring with the fine dusty particles of dried product AND real tiny dust particles which are trapped in the residue. 2.) Polishes/compounds are not designed to be left on the surface. If your previous products didn't cause trouble, well, that's pure luck. The formulas may allow that, but it's absolutely not intentional, as no abrasive liquid is designed to sit on the surface after working it in properly. There is nothing in them which would need that. 3.) If you leave the residue on the surface, you can't control the working area precisely, because you have to go around the car, remove the residue, THEN check the whole surface for defects - which is a kinda snow-blindness. It is easier to focus on a smaller working area and make additional corrections as necessary. 4.) You shouldn't wait with removal - even when you are doing just a panel. The residue can be too dry when you remove the first working area on the particular panel. Divide a panel into imaginary, workable thirds/quarters on a door and 6-8 sections on a hood. Let's say a 20×20 inch area is manageable. Do your 20×20 inch working area, finish down the product properly, remove the residue, inspect with IPA or a prep fluid, refine it as necessary. Done. Move to another working area. Go round the car like this, then switch to a finer product and finish/finesse/jewel the surface. 5.) Compound dust is/can be very detrimental to health, especially when you let it dry. Airborne microabrasive particles/agglomerates/primer crystals and whatever may be in that specific carrier system can be carcinogenic, so you don't want to inhale polishing dust. If you wear a respirator when removing dry polish residue, it's fine, but I highly doubt that. Luckily, Optimum is not that aggressive, and more or less dust free, but that doesn't mean it is beneficial mountain air... 6.) There is a misconception in your head again, as a polish/compound won't *last* as they don't have any protective ingredients/qualities. If you just polish a surface, it won't *last * in the context of protection, because the surface is just polished, aka made smooth and shiny by abrasion, but not protected! It needs a wax/sealant for protection. All-In-Ones, like Poli-Seal or GPS have wax and/or sealant in them, and hence they are the only mechanically working abrasive liquids which need a little bit of setting time before removal. However, properly worked OPS doesn't have any residue at all. If a polish/compound *lasts*, it is because you take care of the surface, don't cause marring and other physical damage. After polishing, the surface is virgin, bare and unprotected, and therefore the nonexistent protection can't *last* on it. 7.) Based on your description, the amounts you are using are huge. 1 hour just to clean the residues from a roof??? OMG, that sounds scary. When you're using a DA polisher, put 4-6 pea sized drops onto the pad for priming, and 2-3 pea sized drops for each subsequent steps. Optimum polishes have superior lubrication which ensures a constant, even buffing film, which is thin enough to let even the tiniest abrasive particles to strike it through. If you are just dumping, pouring product on the pad, you are hurting the effectiveness of the product. Once again: 2-3 pea sized drops on a 5.5 inch pad and the working time should be around 3-4 minutes per working area. That way, the polish/compound can finish down properly even with a DA, and the residue will be just a very fine, almost glassy haze which wipes off with no effort.
  8. Compound II

    You let a polish/compound to sit on the surface??? Umm, why exactly??? Abrasive liquids don't need to be left on the substrate, as they don't have protective ingredients. As soon as you stopped the machine, the Compound should be wiped off.
  9. OCW - safe on new repaint?

    Theoretically it is safe as it's water based. OOS however is not safe.
  10. Hyper polish woes?

    Is the panel resprayed?
  11. NEW: Optimum Micro Fiber Pads

    Hey Chris, what's the speed capability of these pads? Can you tell the difference between short-throw/high speed DAs, like certain Bosch machines (2mm stroke, 4mm orbit, up to 12.000 OPM/24.000 strokes/min), versus long(er)-throw/lower speed DAs? What's the recommended speed range with rotaries+SMAT liquids?
  12. OCW on Red RX3

    Bump. Mods, please fix the pics!
  13. Optical Qualities of OSW

    Another end of the scale is Meguiar's #26 Paste, which is among the warmest looking waxes out there. To get a good comparative base, try it, then decide what you prefer.
  14. First timer

    Welcome to the Optimum club! The trio will produce wonderful results with ease!
  15. CrobarCars says Hello again!

    Welcome back Paul! Only Patrick and you call ONR as NRWS...