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?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

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I applied Gloss Coat to my car about 1.5 years ago.  It has held up pretty well in most places, but the time has come to do a full re-application of it.  I have a couple questions.

1. I plan on applying 2 coats, to ensure coverage.  How long should I wait after applying the first coat, before I can apply the second?

2. On my initial application, I applied it to the paint, as well as to a few exterior hard plastic parts.  Since I can't polish the plastic, what do I need to do to "Prep" it for this new application.

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Will you be doing a polish to remove the current layer of gloss coat to start with a clean surface?

Also hyper polish can be used to polish plastic as it won’t stain plastic trim.  

 

But A&J provided good info.  

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I am at the Clay/Polish stage today, and will be applying the Gloss Coat tomorrow.  The problem is we are having a freak snow storm, and I have to drive my car Monday, which means it is going to catch some nasty road spray with dirt from the sand trucks, and probably some Mag Chloride.

How soon after the application is it ok for the gloss coat to see water?  Also, what is the soonest I can safely do an ONR wash, and a Standard water wash?

Also, I remember seeing somewhere you can apply Opti-Seal after the Gloss Coat, even when it is still curing, which will provide a sacrificial layer while Gloss Coat is curing.  Is that true, and how soon after applying the Gloss Coat, can I apply Opti-Seal?

Thanks for your help guys!

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You can get Gloss coat wet after 1h but in all fairness its not ideal. Keep it dry for as long as possible is what I would say.

And yes. To protect the coating from the elements you can apply opti-seal on top after 1h. OPT say to not wash for a week but ONR is the safest shampoo for the coating and Ive had a case where the customer parked his newly polished and gloss coated car under a tree in the next door caffe to showlight it to his friends and tree sap sat on it. He called me half and hour after pick up and I sad to come back. I gave the car a quick ONR wash and removed the sap with ease. He had no problems after that (or at least that Ive know off).

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So I finished the 2 coats of Gloss Coat, and applied an additional coat of Opti-Seal just to be safe.  Everything seems good so far, but I guess I need some time to be sure.

Thinking back on my prep though, has got me a bit worried.  For the majority of the car, on the polishing step, I used Hyper Polish and a Orange Lake County CCS Foam Pad (Light / Moderate Cutting Pad).  I am worried that that combo may not have been enough to remove the old Gloss Coat, especially now that I read that Hyper Polish is a Light Finishing Polish.  Do you think Hyper Polish and a Light Cut Pad is enough to remove my old Gloss Coat Coating so my paint will accept the new Gloss Coat?

I will write up a more detailed post soon with more details an pics.  For now/For Fun, here is a shot from after the 2nd coat of Gloss Coat was applied:

5a948c5a41f3a_2018_OptiCoat(18)s.jpg.36d274041c4e087eaf16f865b531a7c7.jpg

 

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Hyper polish is more of a medium cut polish that finishes very well. Ive corrected an entire car (several actually) in combination with CG orange hex logic pad. If you combine it with a  softer pad it has less cut and can be used as a finishing polish.

Did you use Paint prep or other IPA cleaners after polishing?

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10 hours ago, A&J said:

Hyper polish is more of a medium cut polish that finishes very well. Ive corrected an entire car (several actually) in combination with CG orange hex logic pad. If you combine it with a  softer pad it has less cut and can be used as a finishing polish.

Did you use Paint prep or other IPA cleaners after polishing?

I did use Paint Prep after the polish, here are the steps I took:

1. Decon Wash with Carpro Reset.  Sprayed OPC at 1:3 on the side and rear panels before washing those sections

2. Used Optimum Ferrex on all panels, rinsed well, then did a 2nd wash with Reset.

3. Clayed with Medium Grade Synthetic Clay, using ONR at Clay Lube strength for lube.

4. Polished entire car with PC 7424, Hyper Polish & Lake County Orange CCS Pad (Removed residue with Microfiber soaking in ONR 1:256)

5. Went over entire car with ONR 1:256 Wash using microfiber towels to ensure any remaining polish residue was removed and to remove linting.

6. Optimum Paint Prep

7. First Coat of Gloss Coat

8. Waited overnight, and applied 2nd coat of Gloss Coat

9. Waited overnight, and applied 1 coat of Opti-Seal

I am sure some of my steps were not needed, but I wanted to make sure everything went well.

 

57 minutes ago, Ron@Optimum said:

I'm confident your Hyper Polish did the trick, especially after 1.5 years.

Thanks Ron & A&J!  I am sure I am just being paranoid.  On my way into work today it was raining a bit, and it looks like the coating is reacting to water properly.  However, since I applied the Opti-Seal 2 days ago, I am not sure if what I am seeing is from the Opti-Seal or Gloss Coat.  How long should Opti-Seal last on Gloss Coat?

On a side note, I love how easy Hyper Polish is to use.  I was skeptical at first, being in a spray bottle, but it makes it so much easier to get the right amount of product.  I love how it has no dusting, and the residue is easy to remove.  I had to use Menzerna PO 91E on a couple of spots, and that stuff was a mess, and got dust everywhere!  Next time around I will make sure I have Hyper Compound on hand!

 

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I agree that you are fine.  I have used a polish that has less cut than hyper polish on a polishing pad and that was enough to remove Gloss Coat that was over a year old. 

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depending on various conditions, Opti-Seal might last several weeks on Gloss-Coat.  With your thorough prep, I'm confident you have a successful application.

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So it has been around 2 months since my Gloss Coat application.  I waited 3 weeks after the application (which was 2 coats Gloss Coat, followed by 1 coat of Opti-Seal), for the first wash.  I have since been washing every 2 weeks with Carpro Reset.  Initially, the beading/sheeting was great and performing as expected, however, my last wash two weeks ago, I noticed the lower sides and rear weren't sheeting as well as the rest of the car again.

These last 2 months, I have done a lot of driving in heavy rain, so those areas have been hit pretty hard with road spray and grime.  At this point, I am not sure if the problem is just contaminants and road film that are keeping the water from sheeting properly, or if it is an issue with the coating.  I can't help wondering if this Gloss Coat Application didn't stick to these areas, which were the same areas I had issues with my first round of Gloss-Coat, and it didn't stick because I didn't prep those areas properly, and that the Opti-Seal was just initially masking my failure of properly coating those areas.

If I did coat the car properly, I wouldn't think that 2 months of driving in heavy rain and post winter road conditions (dirty from sanding/gravel treatments and Mag-Chloride) would be enough to contaminant the coating.  Especially with the sacrificial layer of Opti-Seal I applied.

I wanted to get the expert's opinions on how likely it is that 2 months of "Winter like" driving would cause enough contamination to cause sheeting issues, even with Reset Washes every 2 weeks.

Also, I have heard that MDR is a good tool to use to get rid of Road Film that builds up during winter driving.  I also heard that using a combo of PC, FerreX and MDR could be used for a really good decon wash, and wanted to get your opinions/suggestions for the following process I am going to try on my next wash:

1. Normal Carpro Reset wash & Dry
2. Spray lower areas with Power Clean (1:3) and let it dwell for a few min, then thoroughly rinse. (Should it be agitated?)
3. Spray Lower Areas with Ferrex, and let it dwell for a few min , then thoroughly rinse (Should it be agitated)
4. Apply MDR to lower areas using a foam applicator, agitating, then allow a few min to dwell, and thoroughly rinse.

I do know over the first few weeks, the entire car, as well as the lower sides and rear beads and sheeted well.  I don't know exactly when the lower areas started having issues, but the rest of the car still beads and sheets well.

 

 

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Your methodology should result in a thorough decontamination of the paint and you should see the same results from your coating.

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37 minutes ago, Ron@Optimum said:

Your methodology should result in a thorough decontamination of the paint and you should see the same results from your coating.

Thanks Ron!

Do have any advice on whether PC and Ferrex should be agitated, and what kind of dwell time should be used for each?

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