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whiplash willy

?'s On 2nd Application Of Gloss Coat

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You can see both products working - FerreX turns ferrous metals red and as you see that it's time to remove (depends on accumulation, but several minutes at least) - mild agitation, just a sponge slightly dripping with ONR.  Power Clean dwell time depends on dirt accumulation, concentration (100% PC requiring less time than lesser dilutions), and heat of day AND surface (probably best to do with temps <80 and not in direct sunlight).  PC may require agitation due to tar/bugs/grease being tougher job - and you will see the dissolved junk running down the surface.  Again rinse thoroughly with sponge dripping with ONR.

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On 5/1/2018 at 11:23 AM, Ron@Optimum said:

You can see both products working - FerreX turns ferrous metals red and as you see that it's time to remove (depends on accumulation, but several minutes at least) - mild agitation, just a sponge slightly dripping with ONR.  Power Clean dwell time depends on dirt accumulation, concentration (100% PC requiring less time than lesser dilutions), and heat of day AND surface (probably best to do with temps <80 and not in direct sunlight).  PC may require agitation due to tar/bugs/grease being tougher job - and you will see the dissolved junk running down the surface.  Again rinse thoroughly with sponge dripping with ONR.

Thanks Ron!

 

So I ended up doing a Carpro Reset Wash, then sprayed the areas with PC 1:3, and let it dwell for a few min, then agitated with a Microfiber applicator.  I then Rinsed, dried, and sprayed the area with Ferrex.  I let it dwell for a few min, agitated/spread it around with a MF applicator and rinsed.  I saw very little purple reactions.  Finally, I applied MDR to the area with a MF applicator, let it dell for a few min, then rinsed and went over the area with a Reset wash again.  Unfortunately it had no effect, and the water reactions on those lower door areas are still not right.

I just don't understand why those lower areas would loose their beading/sheeting properties so quickly (2 months).  I don't know why but I always seem to have issues with Coatings, and those lower and rear areas of the car, sooner then I think I should.  The first Gloss Coat application on this car, those areas lost their beading/sheeting properties about 6-8 months after the application, which was after the first winter.  My previous car, which had Opti-Coat Pro (the older formula) was professionally applied in 2013, had the same issues with beading/sheeting on the lower and rear areas of the car as well, also in about 8 months or so after application, after the first winter.  In all cases, I have never been able to bring back the water properties of those areas after decon washes, IronX/Ferrex, Power Clean, and Clays.  I am not sure why I am having so many problems with this, but it seems like the lower and rear areas of any of my coatings ever survive Portland Oregon's rainy season/winter.

Here is a link to a video that shows the water reaction differences on the top area of the door, which still sheets water well, like I would expect it to.  And how the water reacts on the lower ares of the door where the water sticks to the paint and sheets slowly/poorly.

https://youtu.be/VzRxx7temGs

 

 

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I don't have an answer for you, maybe Dann or Yvan will have something.  One thing I've learned with Optimum, about cars AND coatings,  is they are all unique.  Even within a brand, different models and colors can respond differently. 

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9 hours ago, whiplash willy said:

Thanks Ron!

 

So I ended up doing a Carpro Reset Wash, then sprayed the areas with PC 1:3, and let it dwell for a few min, then agitated with a Microfiber applicator.  I then Rinsed, dried, and sprayed the area with Ferrex.  I let it dwell for a few min, agitated/spread it around with a MF applicator and rinsed.  I saw very little purple reactions.  Finally, I applied MDR to the area with a MF applicator, let it dell for a few min, then rinsed and went over the area with a Reset wash again.  Unfortunately it had no effect, and the water reactions on those lower door areas are still not right.

I just don't understand why those lower areas would loose their beading/sheeting properties so quickly (2 months).  I don't know why but I always seem to have issues with Coatings, and those lower and rear areas of the car, sooner then I think I should.  The first Gloss Coat application on this car, those areas lost their beading/sheeting properties about 6-8 months after the application, which was after the first winter.  My previous car, which had Opti-Coat Pro (the older formula) was professionally applied in 2013, had the same issues with beading/sheeting on the lower and rear areas of the car as well, also in about 8 months or so after application, after the first winter.  In all cases, I have never been able to bring back the water properties of those areas after decon washes, IronX/Ferrex, Power Clean, and Clays.  I am not sure why I am having so many problems with this, but it seems like the lower and rear areas of any of my coatings ever survive Portland Oregon's rainy season/winter.

Here is a link to a video that shows the water reaction differences on the top area of the door, which still sheets water well, like I would expect it to.  And how the water reacts on the lower ares of the door where the water sticks to the paint and sheets slowly/poorly.

https://youtu.be/VzRxx7temGs

 

 

 

Road grime can mask and affect the performance of a coating, wax or sealant.  All the crud created by the rain is thrown in to the paint   The lowest parts of the vehicles are exposed to it more often.   Those are the dirtiest part of any vehicle   

It may need multiple reset washes to revive it.  In the end it may just need to be polished and re-coated.  

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