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arkhamresident

Stripping sealants

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24 minutes ago, Ron@Optimum said:

Power Clean should remove your sealant, at least it removes Opti-Seal.

Not to argue with Dr. G, but some members on another forum did some experiments with stripping sealants with APC, and found that for the most part, the APC was masking or "clogging" the sealant's beading properties, and although it appeared to be "dead", an IPA wipe removed the APC residue and restored the beading to the sealant, showing it was still there.  The conclusion was that the only reliable way to remove a sealant was mechanically, as A&J said, by polishing.

Not sure how all that applies to Opti-Seal and OPC.

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49 minutes ago, arkhamresident said:

If I could I would.

Then use any pre-wax cleanser or simply apply opti-seal over your existing sealant.

Nothing wrong with adding extra protection to your car.

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13 minutes ago, A&J said:

Then use any pre-wax cleanser or simply apply opti-seal over your existing sealant.

Nothing wrong with adding extra protection to your car.

My only concern is whether or not the Opti Seal will bond to the other sealant. 

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Not Dr G responding but I'm trying to get a definitive answer.  Problem is any answer applies to Opti-Seal, not necessarily to whatever product you used.  Same answer applies to layering Opti-Seal over Product X - OS can be layered, but can't guarantee over another brand.

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I understand Ron.  Frequently on the forums people want to strip their wax/sealant prior to applying something else because they want to test the longevity of a new product, so they want to have a pristine surface with no other LSP on it.

So that might have been a Dawn wash or an IPA wipedown.  Thanks to a member experiment and some insight from an anonymous chemist, it was proven that it's not really that easy to strip a sealant, and some of had to adjust our mindset to think about some of the other "durability experiments" which we thought were carried out on bare paint, might have actually been on "bare paint" that had a layer of another sealant on it, with a layer of Dawn residue on top of that.  Kind of skews your ideas about "bonding".

I'm getting that feeling of deja vu that we may have discussed this in another thread here.

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Talking about Jimbos tests on YouTube? I immediately noticed that there were a couple of "dangers" in the way he tested durability.

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Maybe GPS is worth considering, by hand or machine.  Using a polisher would be quicker and better but hand polishing will still remove any sealant.

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