paulgyro Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 I have a black BMW with water spots I'm preping to coat. What should my workflow look like? I'm guessing the following. 1) Pre-soak 2) Wash 3) Iron remover 4) Clay 5) MDR? 6) Polish 7) Panel Prep 8 ) Coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron@Optimum Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 your work flow looks right - you can use iron remover (at least FerreX) as your clay lube. I would rinse the MDR before polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heijneker Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 On 11/27/2019 at 6:49 PM, paulgyro said: I have a black BMW with water spots I'm preping to coat. What should my workflow look like? I'm guessing the following. 1) Pre-soak 2) Wash 3) Iron remover 4) Clay 5) MDR? 6) Polish 7) Panel Prep 8 ) Coat Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps. There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Bankert Posted April 7, 2020 Share Posted April 7, 2020 11 hours ago, Heijneker said: Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps. There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow. Good ole Adam Huber on winter gets the decon😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulgyro Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 17 hours ago, Heijneker said: Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps. There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow. Awesome thanks! I checked out the video and what you say makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulgyro Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 On 4/6/2020 at 5:18 AM, Heijneker said: Bit late, but I personally would swap MDR and Claying. Reasoning: Get all your chemical decontamination done before you (optionally) start mechanical decontamination, which will cause marring. I would implement loooooong dwell times, then claying will hopefully be obsolete. Use a strong pressure washer as well, that helps. There's a video on Opti-Coat's YouTube channel, called "Winter gets the decon" which is a good process to follow. Heijneker, I did as you suggested and used MDR prior to claying (even though there were no water spot) and it made it so I didn't have to clay! Heijneker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heijneker Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 Nice! Great to hear it has worked that way, awesome. Thanks for giving the update. How did you use the MDR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulgyro Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 1 minute ago, Heijneker said: Nice! Great to hear it has worked that way, awesome. Thanks for giving the update. How did you use the MDR? I used a foam applicator with MDR, applied to the paint, let it sit for a 2-3 minutes, washed off. Did the bag test and found no contamination. I tried a similar approach on my hood because of contamination, the hood being coated with CarPro CQuartz, leaving the MDR on for about 20 mins as I couldn't get the contaminated to leave. I washed the hood to remove the MDR and found the coating to be DEAD. I was shocked to see this. Have you heard of this before? I thought MDR even with long dwell times was coating friendly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron@Optimum Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 MDR is coating friendly - Optimum's coatings - we don't test or make promises on other brands. I like chemical decontamination, feel clay is over used. Combinations of Power Clean, FerreX, and MDR can be used to decontaminate paint without clay. paulgyro 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heijneker Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 Well there's your answer, sorry to hear the coating is gone. But time for something better I suppose 😉. Shows the power of MDR, love that stuff Yeah same here Ron, of course a bit more time consuming than mitt Claying with Ferrex after Super Clean, but I think this can give a better clean, and pretty much ensures a clean sheet. But claying is okay if you're polishing anyway I guess, and there's no coating on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulgyro Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 50 minutes ago, Heijneker said: Well there's your answer, sorry to hear the coating is gone. But time for something better I suppose 😉. Shows the power of MDR, love that stuff Yeah same here Ron, of course a bit more time consuming than mitt Claying with Ferrex after Super Clean, but I think this can give a better clean, and pretty much ensures a clean sheet. But claying is okay if you're polishing anyway I guess, and there's no coating on the car. Per Yvan before if you use a light / fine clay like the Optimum clay towel it doesn't mar so no need to worry about polishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulgyro Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 Ron, would a MDR dwell time of say 20 mins hurt Glosscoat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulgyro Posted April 30, 2020 Author Share Posted April 30, 2020 Sorry for all the posts, I found out why MDR killed my coating, CQuartz has a ph resistance scale of 3-11. MDR has a ph of 2.65 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron@Optimum Posted April 30, 2020 Share Posted April 30, 2020 was going to add the coating may not be gone, may just be muted. Different cleaners can reduce Gloss-Coat when over used - I don't believe MDR dwelling for 20 minutes + strips the coating but wouldn't be surprised at it effects durability (same is true for Power Clean, FerreX, etc - use reasonably and rinse thoroughly). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Outback Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Been watching the maintenance videos for Opti Coat+ from various sites and while helpful there seems to be some confusion. One site uses ONR/Power Clean/Ferrex/MDR/Hyperseal in that order, while the Optimum channel used Power Clean/Ferrex/MDR/ONR (didn't mention sealer) in that order. I'm puzzled why ONR would be used before Power Clean, given Power Clean appears to be a more powerful remover of road grime, etc. Would the Power Clean/Ferrex/MDR/ONR/Opti Seal be best approach for new Opti-Coat+ finishes, switching to Hyperseal after Opti-Coat+ has fully cured ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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