Bence Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 I went home and decided to try the products on my mom's camry. I tried using very little product, lots of pressure, no pressure, medium pressure, you name it. I used OC with a yellow lcc pad, OC with an orange lcc pad, and OP with an orange lcc pad. I am FULLY AWARE of my n00b status, but even after all this experimentation, I really saw no results. These pads were the brand new lcc pads I had bought earlier in the day. I misted them slightly with QD before polishing. My polishing technique is the same as those seen on AG's videos. Same technique as what Paul was showing the other day - side to side with 50% coverage moving very slowly. I remember, when I was beginning to "detail", those damn defects were a lot more serious than I thought. I had to learn to identify the exact paint conditions, because what looks "not too bad" in the eyes of the clueless people, it is usually screwed, needing twisted wool, extreme compounds and such... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi Def Detailer Posted May 8, 2008 Share Posted May 8, 2008 I think the overall Optimum product line is great. I started using them about 6 months ago and was immediately impressed with OPS, OOS & NOR. I however didn't choose to use OPP or OHC until about a month ago. I like, the original poster had a couple of cars that had swirls on and wanted to use OPP to knock them out. Black Acura & Pearl Red Dodge Magnum. I consider the Acura paint to be hard and the Dodge's paint to be somewhat soft. Both cars are 2005 and have been through automatic car washes MANY times before. The average eye probably doesn't see the swirls but I CAN! I originally was told that OPP was great for CYCLO and PC without need for Rotary and I wanted to avoid using rotary. Anyway tried applied OPP with Cyclo - green pads to the Acura hood 1st. Worked in 2x2 section where most swirls were for several minutes. Results: NADA. Switched to Cyclo Yellow Pads, wiped clean and reapplied dime amount and applied again same area - Results: NADA. Swirls won't go away. Changed to fresh Cyclo Yellow pads, wiped clean and applied OHC with more pressure. Nope. Same swirls didn't even look like they had diminished. The one thing I did like about OPP is that it stayed lubricated for A LONG time, which is why I wasn't worried about causing any damage. But because of my frustration I switched to some MEGS #80 & MEGS #9 that I had in the crate and it somewhat reduced the appearance - I think more it filled them than removed. I will try same process on Dodge with rotary and Edge 2000 foam pads (Blue, Green, Yellow) now that everyone says OPP & OHC were meant for rotary. Any advice for rotary techniques? Cameron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrobarCars Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 Personally I use the HyperCompound in the cases of these very sever anomilies. In the case of Dark color cars I use a combination of menzerna Intensive polish and Hyper on the yellow cutting pad for the Cyclo. Results are wonderful. Again, without the rotary, using a PC or Cyclo instead may prove the polish not to be the product of choice for deep damaged panels or those dubbed "hard paint"........ I believe it is the clearcoat that is hard and not the paint. There are different manufacturers who have switched to very hard clears due to issues in the 80's and 90's which cost them dearly in warranty work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi Def Detailer Posted May 9, 2008 Share Posted May 9, 2008 Crobar, Thanks for the input. I was thinking of trying Menzerna - pricey, but if it's gonna get the job done it might be worth the investment. BTW - I meant OP and not OPP. OPP, OTS and Gloss Enhancer are great products too. I use them all. Although I haven't had a great experience with Optimum Polishes (yet) Optimum is my goto line of products for sure. The rest of the line has provided me with STUNNING results. Cameron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupenal Posted May 9, 2008 Author Share Posted May 9, 2008 Again, without the rotary, using a PC or Cyclo instead may prove the polish not to be the product of choice for deep damaged panels or those dubbed "hard paint"........ I believe it is the clearcoat that is hard and not the paint. There are different manufacturers who have switched to very hard clears due to issues in the 80's and 90's which cost them dearly in warranty work. Crobar - I just replied to your PM With what you just said, along with the experiences of others who have chimed in, is it still my inexperience (and others) in detailing that is causing the lack of results by using Optimum products? Or is it simply that the optimum products do not work with low power, single headed DA such as the PC and UDM. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one in failing at using OC/OP with a DA. Generally I like to think of myself as competent, and with all the reading I do during the day (work has been....slow to say the least) I figured I had enough knowledge to at least get some results. I took a look at my mom's camry (that I used OC on the hood) and from a distance, the paint looks really good. Very good reflection and shine. However, the swirls are still there. So again, I like OC/OP in that they produce a nice shine, but the swirl removing has been tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bence Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 I just like to correct some wording: clearcoat IS paint - it just doesn't contain coloring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrobarCars Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 Hey Bence you are correct. I like to compartmentalize the two items as a bit different because if one burns through the clear the paint layer is very dull......For me I concern myself with the clear layer only. Basecoat is by nature a dull paint, while clearcoat is what makes the auto paint glossy which help the paint match the OEM finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrobarCars Posted May 10, 2008 Share Posted May 10, 2008 Crobar - I just replied to your PM With what you just said, along with the experiences of others who have chimed in, is it still my inexperience (and others) in detailing that is causing the lack of results by using Optimum products? Or is it simply that the optimum products do not work with low power, single headed DA such as the PC and UDM. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one in failing at using OC/OP with a DA. Generally I like to think of myself as competent, and with all the reading I do during the day (work has been....slow to say the least) I figured I had enough knowledge to at least get some results. I took a look at my mom's camry (that I used OC on the hood) and from a distance, the paint looks really good. Very good reflection and shine. However, the swirls are still there. So again, I like OC/OP in that they produce a nice shine, but the swirl removing has been tough. Hey stupenal, I think the critical issue here is the initial step of determining the degree of the anomolies on the car and designating what the DA is actually able to take out. Experience with the DA and it's ability will come with experience. If the marring,etc. is excessive the DA along with the correct polish/compound will take off the top "layers" of damage only to "uncover" the deeper marring that may only be possible to negate with a rotary. This may seem as if the marring is still there, however experience will assist you over time to see what the perameters of using the DA and ridding anomolies can be achieved. Again it can be done, it just takes patience and time. Technique is crutial. You have very good products that were developed for the rotary. There is some adjustments that can be made with the products while using them with the DA - Pad choice, rate of speed, and expectation, that will assist you in getting a better end result. Check your PM. Hang in there...The cars will look great very soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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